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RE: Best tires for all 'round use?
Badlands are the ones that have grass in their description on pro-line's site: http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html They use one of those annoying frames on their page so that you can't directly link to the page that shows all of their tires together. But if you click Products on the left, and then Tires under the 1/8th buggy picture you can see what they have to offer.
Posted on: 12/26/2006 4:22 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5164003
RE: Best tires for all 'round use?
You mentioned bashing, sand pits, loose dirt and grass. That means only one tire. Proline Badlands. Its lugs are twice as deep the ones mentioned above, and its made in Proline's hardest compound (XTR) so they last forever. If you are bashing, there is no tire more fun, because they pretty much destroy the terrain they run on with the overly aggressive tread. I have even run them on pavement and they don't wear that quickly compared to other off-road type treads.
Posted on: 12/25/2006 7:33 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5160704
RE: can the superbrain 977 charge gell cell
Yes, it can charge 12 volt gell cell batteries. As long as your glow igniter is powered by a nicd, nimh, lithium or lead acid type batteries, the Super Brain 977 will charge it. I use one and love it.
Posted on: 12/22/2006 5:51 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5149431
RE: I need a devils advocate
You asked for a devil's advocate, and I attempted to provide one. My failure came first in not realizing a radio existed that provided more than 3 channels of surface use, and second that brushless motors apparently provide 10 times greater runtime than I had heard. I was under the impression that other 1/8th buggy projects similar to this really didn't provide runtimes any better than the nitro counterpart. So I failed at the devil's avocate role. I meant nothing but a bit of sarcastic humor by the last part of my previous post, thus the "hehe" at the end, so flashing your job title really wasn't necessary. Good luck with your project, although I do sincerly believe that when all the dust settles, the 1/8th nitro platform will prove superior. Hopefully, you will prove my gut feeling wrong.
Posted on: 12/21/2006 9:33 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5145910
RE: I need a devils advocate
Another reason for the center diff is so that you can have seperate braking fore and aft. If your driveline was full time 4wd you would not be able to lock the rear wheels up without also locking the front and taking away your ability to turn. With your electric motor concept, the existing brakes won't matter though as your dual motors will handle that duty. One question though, if you use dual motors and want separate control over each who is going to build you the radio with twin throttle triggers? The only other option would be custom circuitry that allows biasing, and would need to somehow have the ability to detect differences in wheelspin from front to rear. I think you would be alot better off with a single electric motor mounted offset to the driveline, similar to where your nitro powerplant is now and spinning the existing spur gear and differential rather than eliminating it. You will lose your ability to brake the front wheels separate from the rear though. The ideal setup would be to have a four wheel drive platform that can brake independently and not require complex modification to function, and maybe get runtime equal to or better than current battery technology. Something like a 1/8th scale nitro buggy perhaps. Oh wait, thats what you had before you started messing with it, hehe.
Posted on: 12/21/2006 2:38 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5144251
RE: What servo's are you running?
Either your servo saver is too tight/binding, you took a serious hit, or both. A good way to test the servo saver is to hold the servo linkage still with one hand and try to steer the wheels with the other. If you can't do it, then the servo saver needs to be adjusted. The only reason that your throw would cause a problem is if the servo was trying to push further than the car can physically steer. If this is the case, adjust your endpoints until you see your steering lock visibly reduce. Then increase it to the back up to the point where the wheels don't turn any further. [quote]ORIGINAL: vikingen I have the same servo and the plastic gear stripped first run out after about 5mins [:o] Its in my new losi 8ight and I figure it stripped coz I had too much steering dialed in / hi point was too high Any thoughts ? I've since ordered 2 packs of replacement gears in case it happens again... servo is back in the car and seems fine so far on the bench. Dialed down the steering considerably [/quote]
Posted on: 10/31/2006 4:36 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4938809
RE: 8IGHT tool set
[image]http://www.ofna.com/images/toolset-8-10814.jpg[/image] OFNA #10814. Includes 0.05, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32. Comes with a [u][i][b]lifetime guarantee[/b][/i][/u]. Probably going to set you back about 30 bucks, but at least you only pay once.
Posted on: 10/30/2006 2:20 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4933743
RE: Ofna Hyper 7 Part?
I edited my post after you posted, re-read it for correct info. You don't need the shock body after all, that is for the part that goes above the part you are talking about.
Posted on: 10/27/2006 8:29 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4923014
RE: Ofna Hyper 7 Part?
Copied from Nitrohouse: 19010 PLASTIC PARTS, SHOCK SET 7.95 6.76 http://www.nitrohouse.com/parts,_hyper_7_pbs.htm Parts Diagram: http://www.ofna.com/images/man-hyp7pro-3.jpg
Posted on: 10/27/2006 8:28 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4923003
RE: What servo's are you running?
Here is a link to all the top servo models I have compiled: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4634335 I use a KO Propo PDS-2344FET for steering. Its one of their older ones now, but I am happy with it. Best thing is that it has an all metal gear train except one plastic gear that will give out if you have a severe impact that the servo saver doesn't totally protect against. KO sells the plastic throwaway gear in packs of 3 for only 5 bucks! If you are desperate to have an all metal geartrain (if you are the monster truck bling-bling type or something) you can buy the gear in metal for 10 bucks too. JRZ590M for throttle/brake. Not much to say for this one really. Could be better, could be worse. It has lasted a long time there, but that doesn't say much one way or the other since it doesn't have to deal with anywhere near as much stress as a steering servo.
Posted on: 10/27/2006 8:15 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4922918
RE: Steering servos
Here ya go, a running list I have kept of all the best steering servos for a 1/8th buggy: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4634335
Posted on: 10/27/2006 8:04 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4922892
RE: PMB setup system brilliant AND cheap
Take your scale, and transpose it left to right so that you are using the opposite side (numbers will be backwards). By this I mean make sure that if you were using the left side grid of numbers, that now you are using the right side numbers (that will likely be mirror image since you will be looking through the plastic to etching on the opposite side). This should eliminate any chance for machining errors. If it still reads 1 degree, then you probably have 1 degree of tow. If it reads zero, then you probably have a improperly manufactured scale.
Posted on: 10/20/2006 7:54 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4894103
RE: PMB setup system brilliant AND cheap
Set the tow gauge on top of the uprights, and focus on one side of the car. Slide the gauge to that side, until the pin that sticks up from the uprights bottoms out against the side of the slot in the tow gauge. Keep it pressed against that pin and make your adjustments. When you want to make adjustments to the other side, slide the gauge to the other side of the car until the pin bottoms out at the end of the slot as above. One thing I have noticed that helps with reading the markings on this gauge is to view the plates from an upward angle. This makes the degree sight lines look shorter, and are easier to line up with the indicator.
Posted on: 10/17/2006 3:21 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4880051
RE: Bring On The Insane Track Idea's.n. US style, Euro etc. insane ideas anything.
I like simple layouts. The less tricky obstacles, the closer the racing is. Our track is basically a dirt oval, with a small infield section. We can stay nose-to-tail for several laps. That is a lot harder to do when you have 8 rythm sections, 15 turns and a corkscrew or whatever other novelties.
Posted on: 9/29/2006 9:58 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4809390
RE: well i bought a infrno 7.5 sport
Sell it on e-bay. After we all just spent two pages of this thread explaining why you should get something else, I doubt anyone is going to run up and voulunteer to purchase it from you here.
Posted on: 9/28/2006 9:11 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4805158
RE: When will we see the Losi 8ight???
Cough. . . sgrid free conferences->offroad->losi #15. . . cough. Sorry, food stuck in my throat. I am not sure I can actually mention what forum that would be, you may have to search[;)].
Posted on: 9/27/2006 9:18 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4801099
RE: well i bought a infrno 7.5 sport
In your case, there is about 200 worth of just chassis upgrades to get your car reliable. Buying a Hyper 8 Pro kit would likely be more cost effective in the long run. See, already back at the "buy quality buy once" mantra again, not even 12 hours later.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 9:15 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4801085
RE: onboard glow igniter..
Technically, OFNA beat you to it. The old MBX Comps come with the glow driver idea built in. I heard it doesn't work reliably though. If you are really dead set on it, maybe you could modify their system for your needs. http://www.ofna.com/ultrambxcomp.html
Posted on: 9/27/2006 8:49 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4800958
RE: When will we see the Losi 8ight???
I have been reading on other forums, and they said beveling the opening in the chassis with a dremel at a 45 degree angle (side to side, not front to back) should give you enough clearance.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 8:21 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4800812
RE: Piranha Digital peak
The Piranha Digital is probably the easiest to use, best value for an entry level charger. I have one too and I love it. You don't really need a discharger for your nimh batteries that you mentioned above. In fact, they actually like to be stored with some charge. Discharging is somewhat of a myth as far as extending the useful life or power of your cells. The only real purpose for it is to see how much capacity goes back into your cells when you re-charge it from fully dead. This gives you somewhat of an indicator as to the condition of your batteries, whether or not its getting to be time to replace.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 7:26 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4800593
RE: well i bought a infrno 7.5 sport
The OS RG is pretty much a base model engine. There will be many better than it in terms of performance, but none better for the price. It comes with a great carb, great air filter setup, and a glow plug. The next best engine I would recommend in terms of performance/price ratio would be the Sportwerks .26. It only comes as a pullstart model though, so you will need to order the sealed pullstart eliminating backplate for it as well (another 15 bucks). You can leave the pullstart on there, but a sealed backplate is alot more reliable, and doesn't rob power from the engine. You could order from just one shop, but you will pay alot more. I would say search e-bay, and do google searches as well. Often times google will show the best price for the item you type in at the top of the screen. Spending a couple hours looking for the best price may seem boring as hell but it can save you hundreds of dollars if you look. If you were lazy and bought everything I mentioned above from one place, you could easily spend double what I came up with.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 6:58 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4800494
RE: onboard glow igniter..
Your glow start battery, even if it was a sub-c cell would probably die before your receiver pack. That means you would have to quit driving to change out the battery in your car, or stop driving and wait to charge it up again, since it can't be on the charger while you're driving your car. This comes back to another ultra portability problem that most overlook. The biggest fuel bottle I have seen (I own it, comes from Du Bro) is only 800cc, and most are only 500cc. That means you are going to have to walk back to your gallon of nitro to re-fill every few tanks anyway. Why bother making everything super portable if you still have to hike back to wherever you put your gallon of nitro? Regardless of whether you bash or race, I think a starter box with a power panel is the best option. It gives you the longest runtime by far since it uses the 12 volt gell cell battery of the box, and doesn't add any extra weight over the starter box itself. If you think its hard to carry around a starter box and all your gear, just go to Walmart and get a 45-50 gallon wheeled storage container for about 10-15 bucks. Toss everything in there and you can bash as far away as you want from where you parked, because everything is rolling along with you.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 6:34 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4800382
RE: well i bought a infrno 7.5 sport
Reliable setup, race worthy using current kit, OK, here we go: 6 volt nimh receiver pack (1400mAh or greater capacity): 20 Duratrax Piranha Digital battery charger (for above pack): 50 OFNA #10253 12 volt heavy duty starter box, w/ power panel, battery, charger: 120 FM or DSM radio w/ receiver (no servos): 100 Hitec HS-985 steering servo (or similar from list above): 80 JR Z-590M throttle servo: 50 OS RG (p) engine: 110 Jammin JP-2 exhaust: 60 Kyosho 7.5 engine mount: 15 Kyosho 7.5 flywheel: 17.50 OFNA clutch bell w/ bearings: 15 Aluminum clutch shoes: 15 1.0 thickness springs for clutch: 5 Kanai Front/Rear Chassis braces: 15 Kyosho 7.5 metal spur gear: 25 Kyosho 7.5/Kanai complete diff assembly $35 ea * 3 (front, center, rear): 105 Team Losi shock oil package: 15 Diff fluids (common weights 7k, 5k, 3k, 1k) $5 ea: 20 Popular tire setup for local track: 30 Extra wheel/tires for bashing: 50 Total of above (not including shipping): $917.50. You really can't build a kit to proper race specs without spending 1k or more (including car, which you already have) when its all said and done.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 6:14 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4800288
RE: Inferno mp777
For a throttle servo, no big deal, just get any metal geared servo that can support 85+in/oz torque, .15 or faster transit time, and has metal gears. The faster and/or stronger beyond that, the better. For a steering servo its a little tougher, the rule of thumb is 150 in/oz torque or better, and .15 or faster transit time. The feature I add to that rule is the word [u][i][b]coreless[/b][/i][/u]. Coreless servos are more accurate, faster, and last alot longer than a normal cored motor servo. They may cost double, but they will last far longer than twice as long, so its definitely worth the investment. Here is all the current models that meet those numbers: Brand Model Torque @6v/Speed (60 degrees) @6v [b]*Ace DS1313 173.6/.13 *Ace DS1015 201.4/.10 *Ace DS1013 180.5/.10 Airtronics 94358 200/.10 Airtronics 94359 200/.10 Airtronics 94361 200/.10[/b] [b]*Futaba S9351 192/.13 [/b] *Futaba S9153 208/.15 [b]Hitec HS-985MG 172/.13 *Hitec HS-5985MG 172/.13 [/b] *Hitec HS-5955TG 333/.15 *Hitec 5997TG 181/.14 *JR Z9000T 320/.15 *JR Z8550 188/.15 *JR Z8800T 188/.15 JR Z4800T 162/.15 [b]*KO Propo PDS-2344FET 180/.13 *KO Propo PDS-2364ICS 180/.13 *KO Propo PDS-2366ICS 180/.13 [/b] [b]Bold [/b] Units that are .13 or faster reaction. Whereas maximum torque may be best for truggy/MT applications with speed being less important, faster transit times will allow you to take better advantage of a buggy's quick handling. *Digital Upside: Better centering and better holding strength, due to higher refresh rate, generates max torque closer to neutral position. Downside: higher current draw, need to set endpoints to avoid damage, usually more expensive.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 3:58 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4634335
RE: well i bought a infrno 7.5 sport
Any hobby shop, mail order house, or ebay. You want one of these. It will be tempting because you will see many servos cheaper than these, but coreless models you find on this list may outlast your car, instead of requiring replacement every couple months like cheaper cored units can. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4633111/anchors_4634335/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#4634335 The one lesson this hobby will teach you will be spend money on quality parts once, or buy cheap stuff several times. It really pays in the long run to save up for the good gear the first time around.
Posted on: 9/27/2006 3:57 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4799768
RE: well i bought a infrno 7.5 sport
What the rather rude comment above by Hincappe refers to is the fact that Kyosho actually downgrades the parts quality on its RTRs quite a bit. Which is unfortunate because you probably didn't know that before you bought it. They are known for their high quality kits however. So you can use parts from a Kyosho 7.5 Kanai, Kanai II, and Kanai III kits. Start with the clutch and differentials, which are the really downgraded parts on the RTR models. Also, shoot for a 6 volt nimh receiver pack if you didn't get one with the package, also a CORELESS high torque servo for steering (150+ torque, .15 or faster reaction) will show you just how quick the handling of a buggy can be and last considerably longer than a cored stock unit. EDIT: Proper silicone fluids aren't usually given on RTRs either. Find a setup sheet online for a Kyosho Kanai buggy, and purchase similar silcond fluids for the front/center/rear diffs as well as silicone shock fluid. These will greatly enhance the car's turning, acceleration, and braking ability.
Posted on: 9/26/2006 10:07 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4797031
RE: When will we see the Losi 8ight???
[quote]ORIGINAL: MugenSickly Those tires arent glued yet. Im waiting for some ofna foams to come in. I am however, i am proud to admit, the worst tire gluer I have ever seen. I honestly can not glue them. I have tried about 10 times, and they always look like shit, and last about 2 races. I finally just started buying pre-glued crimefighters. Or paying ppl at the track to do it for me. I guess I should pay someone to teach me instead of just paying them to do it. You know, the old give the man a fish gig. [/quote] Panther tire bands, and your problems are over. Strap a band around the tire, on the inside and the outside. With the tire lying flat on a table, hold the bottle of glue upside down in one hand, using your palm to hold the tire still. With the other hand, using only your thumb, pry a small opening (really small, like 1mm or so) between the bead and the rim by pressing down on the sidewall, and allow one drop of glue to come out. The common mistake is to pull the tire fully out of the bead, and try to cram it back into place before the glue dries, which doesn't work, and leaves you with lumpy sidewalls. Let the bead close, and if any glue squeezed out tilt the tire, and pry an opening in the bead near by for the excess to fall into. The secret is to USE AS LITTLE GLUE AS POSSIBLE, get a glue bottle with a tiny needle tip, and also to drop the coin on hobby grade super glue; the drugstore stuff doesn't last especially if you try hosing on a ton of it. Start by doing 4 opposing points, and then just go around prying on the bead and filling in the spots where the tire comes loose. It takes a while, but it works.
Posted on: 9/26/2006 9:42 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4796925
RE: I need a better Air Filter
I think you would have better luck with just about any standard off road style filter along with a pre-filter. I haven't heard very good things about the MotorSaver filters. Earlier models especially, because the cap would pop off on impacts (although I've heard that particular problem has been fixed). What I use for a filter (any similar model from another company would be fine as well). I like this model because it comes with two rubber rings that go in place of the zip ties. You just slide them up the air filter neck and you can remove the filter. No cutting/re-installing of zip ties. I have had the filter for the better part of a year, and it hasn't popped off yet, so I'd say they do a good job holding (some warned me they wouldn't): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFFA5&P=7 These are my favorite pre-filters: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGBV7&P=7
Posted on: 9/26/2006 7:00 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4796161
RE: When will we see the Losi 8ight???
Two different shops listing them for 500.00 already. Not much further and I don't think I would be able to resist. Its already really tough at the 500 mark.
Posted on: 9/26/2006 5:03 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4795780
RE: When will we see the Losi 8ight???
If you finished better, even if the car is crap (which it can't be or you wouldn't have finished at all), it still inspired confidence. So it did its job.
Posted on: 9/26/2006 3:22 PM by Author "kx250ryder"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4795452
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