RE: Ultra stick 25E!
Sorry, I don't know how to get a flat spin out of a Stick. You'll probably find that a 4200 4S will be about as much as you can get into the fuse opening. I have a FlightPower Evo 4270 4S and it's a very tight fit. As I said before, I get a good ride out of a 3000mah battery, and if I put a 2650mah in it flies nice and light. My only issue with the Stick is that it always seems to be going rather fast - or maybe I just got so used to the Eratix that I have been flying a lot until a recent splat took it out. For going as slow as possible, the lighter the better - the Eratix has a wing loading of 0.09 ounce/sq.in. as opposed to 0.12 for the Stick, so I opt for a smaller battery when possible. Or maybe it's just that I'm not a very good pilot yet...Chris [;)]
Posted on: 11/18/2009 12:27 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9261959

RE: Ultra stick 25E!
I think you will find that a power32 will be enough power to fly your Ultra Stick on the moon. I have had three of them - the first two had the wing blow off because of failure at the two pins at the front edge of the wing. My current one has had the pins and surrounding area heavily soaked in CA. My most recent one weighs in a 47 ounces (58+ ounces AUW), with 6 servos (4xHS225's, 2xHS81's for flaps), using an AR7000 receiver, Chinese 833kv outrunner and a 60A ESC. On 4S and a 13x6.5 prop it has enough power to fly asymptotically out of sight vertically. I typically use about 160-200 mah/minute of 4S power, so a 3000Mah pack can give me a 12-14 minute flight unless excessive hovering is attempted (I find the Stick hard to hover but you may be more expert.) My previous two Sticks had Power 32's in them and the power was tremendous. You will not be unhappy with the performance. Hope this helps. ..Chris
Posted on: 11/17/2009 9:16 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9261491

Manual for Turnigy Sentilon 100A ESC
I just bought a plane with a Turnigy Sentilon 100A HV speed controller in it. Does anyone know where I can find a manual for this ESC? Additionally, I see it has two small servo-type wires coming out of it - One of course goes to the receiver throttle port, but what is the other one for? I appreciate any responses...Chris
Posted on: 11/2/2009 12:39 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221701

RE: Ultralite servo leads too lite?
If you are talking about the lightweight extensions sold by places like Hobbycity, I have used them on foamies and similar small planes without any problems.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 9:37 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207723

RE: Do I need separate power for my receiver?
Thanks - in this case, I'm not sure if using a separate pack is 'redundancy' or just a separate power source, with its own potential problems from connectors, packs, switches, etc. I'll be using an AR7000 receiver, which i don;t think handles totaly redundant power supplies. What do you think? Thanks again!!...Chris
Posted on: 10/26/2009 7:57 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9204240

Do I need separate power for my receiver?
I just bought a Sukhoi set up for electric power. It weighs probably 11 pounds all up, and runs on 10S (2 x 5S). It is currently setup to tap one of the 5S batteries for a UBEC that (obviously) runs the receiver/servos. My question is this: is this OK, or should I consider using a separate receiver pack for safety? I appreciate any input.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 7:01 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196909

RE: Should I cover an EPP foam R/C
Depends on what plane it is. If you have plenty of power, you can add a little weight. If it's light, it will handle a minor crash better than a heavier plane. Which plane are you considering buying?
Posted on: 10/22/2009 12:34 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193524

RE: T-28 in silver?
Aluminum foil might JUST give your radio a bit of a problem (maybe) ! How about some nice silver exhaust manifold paint, or Krylon or something? Foil just sounds like a nightmare waiting to happen. However, if you do decide to go ahead as planned, please post pix before & after the flight! Regards...Chris
Posted on: 10/14/2009 11:22 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9174296

RE: My Stupid F4U Corsair Crash
Any noises from the ESC when you plug in the battery? If not check the connection between ESC and motor [b](with the battery OUT of the circuit.)[/b] Also, I'm sure you made sure that you turn on the receiver first, set throttle to zero, then power up the plane? Hope this helps. My apologies if this advice is too simplistic...Chris
Posted on: 10/13/2009 6:29 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170623

RE: Propeller noise with quick throttle
I agree - I think your prop is slipping in the adapter. Cavitation would not produce such a sudden effect. You MUST fix this or you may find yourself with no thrust at all in the middle of a close-to-ground maneuver !!
Posted on: 10/5/2009 5:35 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9149103

RE: New Outrunner on my TYPHOOON HELP please
I just replaced the stock motor with an RC 1135 outrunner (from CompassHo ebay store - their motors seem to be OK - the whole thing cost about $30 delivered with a 30A ESC.) This was part of a total rebuild after I rescued the previous incarnation of my Typhoon from the swamp after its 99th flight ended in a surprise. I used the standard 3-screw firewall mount and created a ply adapter plate to the x-mount that came with the motor. I tested it with various props, getting from 350-400+ watts, which is more than twice the stock Typhoon wattage. During my first tests, I tried a 13x4 prop - as the wattage approached the 400+, the whole plane started shaking and the firewall mount ALMOST pulled right out of the fuse !! I ended up seriously gluing the firewall in place, and downrating my prop choice to a 2-blade 9x6 Master Airscrew which gives about 350 watts. I used Futaba S3102's for the ailerons (I just happened to have some), and HS61MG's for the elevator and rudder. Control surface range of motion is now set up to be as ludicrous as possible. My concern (other than the plane pulling apart in the air), is that the small diameter of this prop will not give the airflow over the wings for 3D that the stock setup does. The [i]good[/i] thing about this plane is that it doesn't owe me anything, and is really easy to fix after a 'misjudgement' on my part sends it in the wrong direction. I will report back after some testing.
Posted on: 9/30/2009 11:05 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135723

RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
Yes - I sealed my ailerons with Blenderm, and tend to avoid diving or sustained full throttle horizontally. I like it slow - 13x4 prop and an 800 watt motor, all-I-can-get on control surface movements, and an increased heart rate whenever something goes slightly wrong near the ground. If I trash my Rat I will definitely buy another one if/when they do another production run. One of my big favorites.
Posted on: 9/27/2009 11:06 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9128783

RE: WHYYY???!!!!!!
Adding 2 pounds of nose weight would be a ginormous extra load. Do you maybe mean 2 ounces? Most trainers at around 60 inch wingspan probably weigh in at about 90-110 ounces AUW, so adding 32 ounces more would be quite something. I also wondered about Hornet46's suggestion that the servos are mounted near the tail instead of up front with long enclosed pushrods - is that remotely possible? Other than that - check to see if your pet cat is hanging on to the tail of the plane at takeoff :-)
Posted on: 9/25/2009 12:45 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9123173

RE: Weird LiPo problem
The PZ servos are pretty horrible and don't usually last long. (I changed mine for Hitecs and Futabas that I happened to have.) If your aileron servos are not responding at the same speed and the same range of movement, and if you have elevators mixed to flaperons (to get a tight loop), bad behavior will result, e.g. a loop will become a corkscrew. Similarly, if you apply flaperons, the plane will roll over. If you think the servos themselves are OK, and you have a computer radio, check that the maximum range for the wing servos (probably aileron for the right one, and AUX-something for the left one) are set the same. My Typhoon also heads down after a roll by the way. In fact, if you want to land and you are too high, a coupld of snap rolls get you down without picking up too much speed :-) Sorry if my suggestions are really obvious, and best of luck with it...Chris
Posted on: 9/25/2009 1:32 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9122200

RE: How do i learn to hover.
It's nice to see the plane close to you for hovering, etc., but much more stressful and likely to end in a hint of sadness. I am not good at hovering, but I learned using a few planes in this order - Parkflyers GeeBee, PZ Typhoon, and then onto a profile Katana and an E-Flite Eratix. Practising with the simulator didn't seem to help as much as doing it over and over at a height adequate for me to make horrendous mistakes. You might start by flying close slowly and turning the plane away from you and pulling up towards a stall. Too much throttle and you will go vertical/too high, too little and you will stop and fall off on any direction, so err on the side of just a bit too much throttle. You eventually have to work all four controls at once, so try to minimize the need for all of them initially by pulling up straight and then use the rudder (a lot!) to prevent falling off to the side - you will of course fall off forwards or backwards. After a while you can add use of the elevators to prevent this, and then the throttle to actually achieve something closer and closer to just hanging there. Lastly add in ailerons to allow or inhibit torque roll and you are in business. Practise a zillion times and you can let the plane get near you (and the ground). Remember, your flight times will be VERY short, and lots of heat will be generated. Hope this helps - that's how I got to the point I'm at - i.e. not very good at it yet...Chris
Posted on: 9/22/2009 9:02 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9116460

RE: Z-poxy not setting?
I suspect you didn't mix it up enough. Is that possible?
Posted on: 9/14/2009 10:34 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096279

RE: PZ Battery's
My guess would be the battery has probably been discharged for so long, it's no longer any good. That's definitely the case if it's a Lipo. If it's NiMH you could try cycling it a few times if you have a suitable charger, but it's probably best to get a new battery. I recommend HobbyCity for Lipos - MUCH cheaper than buying a battery from PZ. Good Luck...Chris
Posted on: 9/13/2009 4:03 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9092349

RE: Does Ultracote suck, or is it just me...?
Are you sure you took the backing off?
Posted on: 9/12/2009 10:21 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9089222

RE: 2 or 3 blade prop for 3din'?
From my reading in these forums, and theory elsewhere, apparently the less blades the better. I think conventional thinking for rc aircraft is that you only go to extra blades for two reasons - scale appearance, or ground clearance. That said, I think 3-bladed props look much cooler. I put a counter-rotating one on my Predator UAV, but my excuse was the ground clearance !! Hope this helps...Chris
Posted on: 9/5/2009 4:24 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9072023

RE: Nitromodels PREDATOR RQ-1B
Texas - when you say "switching to a 2.4 system", do you mean for RC, or for a video link? My understanding is that you can't really use 2.4 GHz video transmission if you are using a 2.4 radio system, as the radio will still work, but the video quality will be degraded to the point of being no good. I think the solution there is to either use 1.2GHz or 5.8GHz (1.2 may not be available in the US), or switch to an analog radio system, (perhaps you have an old FM radio from a previous generation of ARF or something?) On the other hand, if you are using a self-contained camera, I fully agree with Papa J - I am using a DX7, and I usually use ar6200 receivers (they have a 2nd satellite receiver) - they are just a bit more money than the AR6100, but I did have a problem with a PZ Typhoon that I flew out of range a couple of times (I rescued it from the swamp, and am refitting it for more abuse.) Good luck, and please let us know how you get on...Chris
Posted on: 9/5/2009 12:31 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9071676

RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
Maybe the 'new' Eratix will actually be 54" (instead of really 52".) Maybe it will have enough magnets in the canopy. Maybe the firewall will be a bit tougher. Maybe the LG mounting area will be a teensy bit stronger. But we all know that it will actually be a batch of the same ones we currently fly, fix and love! (for $30 more.)
Posted on: 9/3/2009 9:43 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9066615

RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
So, I was flying my Eratix, trying to get good at tail-over-nose loops under power when battery escaped from its velcro, left the airframe after pushing off the canopy - leaving me upside-down in a harrier at 50'. the plane circled down most of the way without nose-diving. Amazingly there was not that much damage. The fuse, lightweight in construction to say the least, broke on one side, and one side of the elevator suffered some 'green-stick' fracturing. The battery and canopy landed on soft damp grass and were undamaged. Both wings=pristine condition. The addition of some light balsa, plenty o'CA, a couple of small pieces of bass & epoxy, and it looks pretty straight. Now I have a partial covering job to do, but fortunately I own a roll of the hideously bright day-glo orange used at the factory. I'm very glad I will be able to fix this plane, as there aint any around to buy at the moment. By the way, since this happened, I've invested in some mil spec hook & loop straps from McMaster Carr for about a buck each. Hopefully a battery will not escape my plane's grasp again!
Posted on: 9/3/2009 1:13 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9066148

RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
[quote]ORIGINAL: jzrf6c The pro is balanced. And the motor shaft is true.  I even removed the shaft and run it on a flat stone to prove to myself taht it was ''True''.  I had no visible or sound vibrations on the first four flights.  Looks to me like the firewall plys just were crap.  I plan on adding epoxy today to see if I can fix the problem. [/quote] Well, I just had exactly the same problem. In checking over my plane after an incident (see separate post), I realized there was some vertical movement in the prop. Examination shows that the firewall has significantly delaminated at the bottom [b] May I ask how you fixed yours? [/b] There isn't a lot to glue/screw to, unless I remove some bottom covering and reinforce the back of the firewall too.
Posted on: 9/3/2009 1:02 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9066132

RE: A CRASH EXPERIENCE
Maybe your timing was bad. Perhaps it came across as if you asked to make a fur coat out of his pet dog right after it had been hit by a truck. I do like your Christopher Walken-style punctuation, though.
Posted on: 9/2/2009 12:48 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9063526

RE: My Stupid F4U Corsair Crash
Oh, absolutely - don't repair an engine mount (the one for yours costs $3.29). I was thinking you wanted to reattach the mount to the front of the damaged foam fuselage, that's why I recommended Gorilla.
Posted on: 9/2/2009 12:44 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9063508

RE: My Stupid F4U Corsair Crash
Actually I have fixed my PZ Typhoon using Gorilla glue. Once I trashed it to the point of snapping the fuse in half. I gorilla'd it, taped everything tightly until dry, trimmed off the excess glue, and voila! good as new.
Posted on: 9/1/2009 9:11 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062919

RE: New Video Camera Plane.....
I guess you're not using a 2.4Ghz radio with that setup, are you?
Posted on: 8/31/2009 11:54 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9060725

RE: Dean's T-Connectors - HOW MUCH CURRENT??
Well, thanks for all your responses. I actually called Dean's and managed to get to speak to someone who said that they [i]thought[/i] that the spec was 100 amps, but they would 'have to get a tech to call me back'. No-one ever called back. By the way, I usually use the knock-off version, and have had no trouble to speak of.
Posted on: 8/22/2009 12:22 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9034960

RE: want to use landing gear switch to activate and deactivate servos
Good points. My idea for sighting the camera is to use a laser pointer attached to it, so that there is a chance that I will be able to tell when the camera is pointing towards the pit area (where I & others will be standing, hence the laser will be pointed at us.) I ordered a pointer from Ebay for about $3 to experiment with. I find the biggest problem with getting a good video shot from a plane near the ground is lining it up and NOT putting too many control inputs into the plane. Of course like everyone else, my goal is eventually FPV, so that the plane can be flown from goggles or a monitor some of the time. I'm still curious to know exactly what functions you want to toggle between?
Posted on: 8/19/2009 8:37 AM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "RC Robotics and Autonomous Robots"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9027845

RE: Big Stik down
I'm always impressed when I see pix like that - carnage and destruction, with your expectation that it will be fixed quickly. To me, I don't think I could ever get that plane to fly straight again, but I guess it can be done! If I repaired it, it would weigh 7 ounces more (ply & epoxy) and randomly turn to the right before stalling!
Posted on: 8/18/2009 11:49 PM by Author "lejongleur" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9027262