RE: GP Shoestring Power Recommendation
Just check out the videos for the plane. Flights go for about 8 minutes from what they've told me, and there is TONS of power ;)
Posted on: 10/17/2009 3:07 AM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179788

RE: 3rd plane
I think a 25 sized electric is a bit big as a third model. You might want to give a 3D foamy a go, hone your skills in a bit before you step into a larger model ;)
Posted on: 10/17/2009 3:06 AM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179785

RE: should expo be used on 1st time trainer?
If you've got a computer radio, then yes, use it ;) ~50% is plenty.
Posted on: 10/17/2009 3:03 AM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179782

RE: Servo mounting for 3D
IMO, putting the servos about 2-3" behind the wing on most foamies yields a better moving foamy. More mass around the tail will allow it to whip around better in spins ;)
Posted on: 10/17/2009 3:02 AM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179781

RE: EDF Predator UCAV from Nitro Planes
Looking great Greg! I cannot wait untill you maiden this thing. There doesn't seem to be any videos of it out there yet.
Posted on: 3/1/2009 9:43 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "Electric RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8533700

RE: Is a Foamie a Good Second Plane?
I'm going against a foamy as a 2nd plane. Firstly, because a foamy will go where you point it: you roll it over, it will stay there, not self correct itself. You accidentally pull up and it'll go in. Secondly, when they crash, they crash, and sometimes it can be pretty epic ;) Also, you really have to fly it on all 4 controls. Throttle and rudder I would say are the most important, as they are what you mostly use to steer the plane. Ailerons and elevator are also important. You use the elevator mostly ot keep the plane level in turns, and the ailerons as well. Whole new set of controls to master. I suggest something like a Eflite Mini Ultra Stick as a 2nd plane, as a pre-plane to a 3D foamy. You could go the foamy route if you got someone to buddy box you though.
Posted on: 2/28/2009 10:52 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8529997

RE: Yak 54 Indoor Foamy. What should i buy?
I'm using a 25 amp controller because that is what I bought, and it was before Castle Creations came out with the ThunderBird line of ESC's, so the Phoenix 25 was the smalles I could find, that was high quality. If you ask me, the CC Phoenix 25 is the same size as the CC TB18. The recommended servos for any plane weighing from 7oz. all the way to 20 oz. is any 7-9 gram servo with about 15oz. in. of torque. The HS55 being the perfect servo for most foamies, including the 38" DW's. A good motor to use is one that can put out about 170 watts (park 400 is limited with about 140 watts but it's great for 3D) for instant acceleration out of a hover. The Himax HC2812-1080 can put out around 180 watts, so it's perfect for screaming out of hovers on a 10x4.7SF prop. Any 18 amp ESC will work for the majority of the ~170 watt outrunners. Batteries are the hardest part really. A battery that is capable of delivering ~16-20 amps is perfect for this setup. ThunderPower 1320mah 3 cell lipos can deliver the power you will need. For indoors though, I suggest something in the 700-900 mah range, because weight is critical for indoor flying, and the more weight you can save, the more floaty a plane becomes. Any mini or micro receiver with 5-6 channels will also work. I suggest 5-6 channels to allow you to plug the aileron servos in independently, as the DW kits use 2 for ailerons. This allows you to individually adjust the servos control throw, and allows you to center them idividually- provided you have a computer radio. Glue is also critical on a foamy. For indoor foamies, where you need them to be lightweight, and stiff, foam safe CA with foam safe kicker is a good idea. All you need is a small bead of glue to lock things together. For the bigger foamies, I like to use gorilla glue fast cure. It's a flexible glue (in comparison with any CA- which dries solid) that holds great in small ammounts, and allows everything to give slightly in a crash or minor mess up. I use the gorilla glue along all the joints on the 38" planes, and it holds very well. I then go over the fuselage joints (once the gorilla glue has dried) with pva glue, or basically tacky glue. This is perfect for sealing the fuse joints together, and making the airframe strong and ready for 3D abuse. I suggest steering away from ca's for outdoor foamies, as it can crack on high stress maneuvers. For instance, the snap roll: you snap the plane quite aggressively, and this can casue the CA to crack along a jont, whereas gorilla glue simply flexes gently to keep the plane in shape. So, the list is as so: Motor (I'd go with the Scorpion motors recommended on the DW site- never have heard a problem about them, and Innov8tive Designs is always happy to repair any damaged motor for free). ESC: 18-25 amp (a 25 amp ESC generally gives you "wiggle" room) Servos: HS55's or equivalents Battery: 3 cell 1000-1400 mah Prop: APC/GWS 10x4.7SF Glue: Gorilla Glue Fast Cure and Tacky Glue Receiver: Any mini or micro (for example, a Hitec Micro 05S will work) Hinge Tape: (critical!!) 3M Blenderm tape (1/2" tape for hinges, with 1" small strips for re-inforcement around the control horn areas. 1" tape for the carbon spar- this allows you to remove it once the plane is ready for the junk pile, so you can re-use it in another plane). Blenderm tape is medical tape, and someone discovered it works great for foamies. It holds very well, and is pretty much guaranteed for hundreds of flights before it wil give out (just wipe the surface real quick with a rag to make the sticking area clean). DW Foamies has all of the recommended components and glues on their site, so check it out at http://www.dwfoamies.com/ If you need some help still, just shoot me a PM on here, or on RC Groups. I'm Xpress.. on RCG.
Posted on: 1/23/2009 6:23 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8393003

RE: Yak 54 Indoor Foamy. What should i buy?
Well, how about pushing the envelope a bit farther, and getting a foamy made for indoors and outdoors? The DW Foamies Yak 54 38" is perfect for larger gyms, and is perfect for outdoor flying. Setup right, and it will float around, and hover all day. It's smooth an stable for learning 3D, yet turn the throws up and it becomes an all out insane 3D ship. It is very clean on knife edge, and will hover with the best of them. With servos, a motor ESC and battery, you can get one flying for under $160. This includes a kit. I'm not a DW Sales person, simply an end user who is very satisfied with the product. Oh, and don't worry about the wind. The Yak will handle it just fine. I've flown one in 20 or so mph winds, just using a heavier pack. Flew real nice, and made for a very nice rolling harrier trainer, to get your tumb movements timed perfectly.
Posted on: 1/22/2009 5:37 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8388894

RE: First RC-Ducted Fan jet! Please advise!
My First EDF jet was a Phase 3 Fantom, with a 56mm X-Fan, brushless motor and brushless ESC. Flew pretty well, and got going pretty good. I did have plenty of flying experience behind me though, so it wasn't much trouble getting it flying properly.
Posted on: 1/21/2009 11:18 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "Electric RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8386347

RE: looking to build new plane have ?
Check out a DW Foamies Yak 54 38". Excellent flying plane, with pretty much no coupling, no wing rock, and hovers very easily. Setup light enough, it will fly indoors easily, inside a gym, but this doesn't mean it can't fly outside. I fly mine outside regularly, in winds topping about 15-20mph on breezy days. I'm not a DW salesperson or anything, just a customer who uses Mikes products, and couldn't be happier. Mike at DW has everyhting you need to build a kit. They build in about an hour (this is from bag, to flying for me ;)), and assembly is pretty straight forward. Notched parts make the build very straight. Also, any 150-200 watt power system will work. My favorite power system to use is a Himax HC2812-1080 outrunner, Caslte Creations Phoenix 25 ESC, and an Impulse 11.1v 3 cell 13c lipo. Provides unlimited vertical on a 10x4.7SF prop, and less then 1/2 throttle hovers.
Posted on: 1/18/2009 5:27 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8373112

RE: Electro Dust
Well, I'd try to go with 2:1 power to weight ratio. More power, higher speed, and insane vertical :D Looks clean too.
Posted on: 12/14/2008 1:15 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8244704

RE: Getting into 3D foamy
Why not go with the recommended setup? "Recommended Electronics: AXI 2203-46 outrunner, Thunderbird 9 speed control, FlightPower 2 cell-350 battery, Hitec Micro receiver with crystal (or Spectrum 6100), 3 Eflight S60 servos, GWS 8 x 4DD prop" This is the best possible setup for that plane. Also, how good are you at using only rudder for turns? The Yak55M requires you to be pretty sufficient with rudder to do really anything, as most 3D requires the use of rudder. Also, proper throttle management. It takes only about 3/8-just below half throttle ot get it airborne, and keep it flying. Full throttle should only be used for vertical climbs. Also, if you overweight the plane, it will not fly as well as its intentions are, as it's a lightweight indoor 3D plane.
Posted on: 12/14/2008 1:12 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8244699

RE: need advice-getting back in after 20 years
Just remember that after 20 years, your fingers won't know what to do for a few minutes, so flying high will help. Should be able to do all the stuff you used to do in only a few flights, since you were a 3D pilot before.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:19 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221645

RE: Newbe at 3d electric flyiing
Outrunners have the outer casing that rotates, therefore producing more torque, eliminating the need for a gearbox, which can be noisy and adds weight. Inrunners have higher rpms, and lower torque, therefore making it so that you need to run a gearbox, or use the motor in a faster plane. Inrunners are more for sporty or high speed planes, whereas outrunners are for generally anything that requires a big prop. IMO, any 12-16oz. foamy is perfect for your lipos.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:14 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221628

RE: Bought blade400- doesnt work out of the box
Also, the charger comes with aligator clips because it was intended to either plug into a 12v power suppy, or your vehicles 12v battery. Don't worry about draining the battery, because you can get hundreds of charges off of it, and still be able to start the car. Also, sounds like your radio wasn't binding to the receiver. You probably could have gotten it to bind if you stood a few feet away ;)
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:11 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221617

RE: ANY GOOD ELECTRIC 3D BIPES OUT THERE
DW Foamies Skua. Very good with 3D, and is bigger ten your average foamy bipe (expect maybee Lee's bipe). Also, it can handle winds real well, where your lighter models would be grounded. I's probably the best roller out of any of the bipes I've owned. http://www.dwfoamies.com/
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:09 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221612

RE: Throttle trim on jeti 77
Too much rpm? Sounds like you're over amping the ESC, and therefore need to go down a size in prop, or need to go up in ESC size.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:07 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221603

RE: Foamie ARFs or RTFs?
Try to not post the same thing multiple times. It's considered as spam.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:06 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221598

RE: ARF Foamie?
^Wow, if I had the money, I'd get all of your foamies :D I suggest a DW Foamies Yak 54 38" though. You can select from a few choices of servo, motor, and ESC, all for $140, and batteries are only ~$23 a piece, but are comparable to Thunder Power. Out of the 20 or so DW foamies planes I've had, my personal favorite is the Skua biplane, and the Yak 54 38". I've flown both in heavy winds, and they did real well, with no wing rock noticeable. Pus, the yak is what taught me how to 3D. The Skua is much better for eaching you rolling maneuvers, because seup right, it rolls very well, and holds perfect inverted flight.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:00 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221581

RE: Best new 3-D indoor foamy?
[quote]ORIGINAL: qwertypemdas LightFlite BUG is da best! [/quote] Doubtful. It is bad with hovering and knife edge. It's just to mess around with. If you're wanting indoor flying, the Pocket Knife bipe, as well as the Facy Foam indoor planes are the best. Fancy Foam is the choice of the pros.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 12:44 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221537

RE: Greatplanes Flatouts
^Go to the 38" kit of your choice, and select a power system, and servos. The motor looks like it's been replaced with a higher quality Scorpion outrunner, which are a lot better motors, for the increased price.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 12:42 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221530

RE: how to convert/mount brush to brushless???
Maxx Prod sells all of their sub 250 watt outrunners with stick mounts. Might be owrth a try to get an HC2812-840 motor for it. Also, don't forget about the controller, and batteries ;)
Posted on: 12/7/2008 12:38 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221510

RE: LightFlite BUG... good first 3D for int. pilot?
EPP is a wonderfully strong, flexible, and resillient material, that is perfect for beginners. It will bend and flex in a crash, and only break if you really hammer it in. The bug should be okay for learning the basics, but if you want to learn Knife Edge, and rudder only maneuvers, as well as hovering, I suggest either adding more fuselage to the top and bottom, or getting a "real" plane shape.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 12:33 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221495

RE: Diving Into Electrics
I would get the Castle Creations BEC, because you can't get any higher quality. Also, you should be good running a 3 cell 2100-3200 mah lipo. And as for receivers, any Hitec RCD receiver, or the Berg 7P will work. I personally prefer Hitec, but only becaue i'm local to the USA warehouse, and repairs are free. Also, you can get a Hitec Mini6S receier for $30. Excellent receiver for electrics. Still 6.5 grams heavier, but a plane this big won't mind at all. http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/759186.asp
Posted on: 12/7/2008 12:30 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8221483

RE: I need a foamy replacement for my Mini Ultra Stick
Yes, the brio requires the softest landings possible, or you will damage the front end. It does however fly very well, but in the hands of a beginner 3D pilot, it is not very forgiving.
Posted on: 11/11/2008 6:00 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8137596

RE: New Foamy Help
^I disagree. I have used an 11x4.7 prop with similar sized foamies, and it provided unlimited vertical on a 180 watt power system. My guess: the 280 motor will hardly fly it on those heavy 8 cell nixx batteries. You [u]might[/u] be able to cruise around, but it's doubtful. A 3D model requires a lot of power, and lightweight power systems to fly well. You really need to save up and get a more appropriate power system. Brushless outrunner with around 170-180 watts and draws about 14 amps is what you need, and a 20 amp controller with 3 cell 1000-1500 mah lipo. www.hobbycity.com has tons of motor systems that you can get for under $50. Also, they have towerpro motor/ESC combos for under $20. The included prop is too large though, so you will need to go down an inch or two (this is with all the towerpro combos).
Posted on: 11/11/2008 5:58 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8137587

RE: Middle level 3d flying $60-$110 range
The electronics included with the DW combo are re-useable. http://www.shop.depronwest.com/product.sc?categoryId=8&productId=4 As you can see in the link, you can choose which electronics you want. They are top of the line electronics, which you can re-use over and over again.
Posted on: 11/11/2008 5:51 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8137563

RE: Middle level 3d flying $60-$110 range
How about a DW Foamies Yak 54 38"? The combo kit is a bit out of your price range, but it includes a motor, ESC, and 4 servos (servos of which I havenever heard of stripping, nor have I stripped any). Power is perfectly matched for hard core 3D flying, and vertical climbs are limitless.
Posted on: 11/11/2008 5:02 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8137406

RE: Micro Rx 2.4Ghz Help
You can see just how small the micro connectors are compared to a standard plug. There is a standard plug in the bottom of the micro connectors on the receiver. I suggest you get a receiver with the standard pins. Those micro connectors are a bit of a pain.
Posted on: 11/11/2008 5:00 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8137400

RE: Electric Plane Smoke Systems
I would wrap some tape around them, or use some insulator before you mount it to you plane. I know that Jason Knoll did it before on his Eclips F3P indoor bipe, and it came down unburnt.
Posted on: 11/4/2008 8:09 PM by Author "lilbanchee" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8115951