RE: OS Surpass III 120 w/pump
shit happens.. its not critical at all. just thoroughly clean the crankcase and then install new bearings. You are good to go.
Posted on: 6/14/2012 12:13 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11117662

RE: WALBRO Metering cover upgrade CNC
+1
Posted on: 1/13/2012 1:08 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10906378

RE: Dubros round nose tank has less useable fuel
I also dont like those round nose tanks, and never use them. However in your case that cannot be the reason for dead-stick. When you apply throttle, even for a split second the fuel in the tank will move backwards because of acceleration, and stay there. you dead-stick happed either because of bad plumbing, air-leak, ignition failure, opto kill fail, bad plug, mis-tuning or bad fuel. pick one.
Posted on: 12/18/2011 2:28 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864579

RE: Dle55 slowed down whom increases?
Nice Jody :) I feel like I must intervene right this second or we will see more weird phrases from both sides. Tom is right; more accurate answer besides his, would be; to richen the low end needle by 1/2 to 3/4 turn. then fine-adjust again. Turkish-ish explanation ; rolanti ignesi (motora yakin olan ignenin) zenginlestirilmesi gerekiyor. once yarim tur zenginlestir. eger yetmez ise 3/4 tur a tamamla.
Posted on: 3/15/2011 1:02 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10400815

RE: OS fsa 81 or Saito FA 82b???????
I vote for OS 81a, as its rock solid carburator will make tuning very easy; and OS will burn less amount of fuel than Saito.. OS internal oil circulation will keep your engine's inside well lubricated and rust free as well as your planes covering clean. You can catch a deal at tower and get that engine for less than $300..
Posted on: 10/6/2010 5:23 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10050998

RE: Dirty Exhaust
engine is breaking-in thats normal. that black residue is part aluminum particles and part burned castor oil.. dont be alarmed, it will pass.
Posted on: 8/29/2010 12:13 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9966364

RE: Walbro conversion for OS 160FX
The engine is still running fine after 50-55 liters of 95 octane gasoline mixed with 5% (1:20) scooter oil (mineral) it still performs as the first day of conversion. all shiny and oily inside. I find it safe to run 5% oil in this engine. no visible sign of wear, not even on the bearings after a respectable running time... I changed spark plug just once.. my only suggestion is to rig a venturi on the walbro carb to stop fuel spraying occasionally from air intake.
Posted on: 3/21/2010 4:27 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9600151

RE: Walbro conversion for OS 160FX
Here is the older photos updated from original post: The original flange: [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/3.jpg[/IMG] I drilled out the original flange with a 15mm drill bit: [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/2.jpg[/IMG] Then I cut away the remaining throat with a metal saw on the drill bit: [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/4.jpg[/IMG] I cleaned up the remaining burr with a sanding paper dremel bit: [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/6.jpg[/IMG] Now its time for the new 15mm throat. I bought a piece of 15mm OD and 13mm ID stainless steel pipe. The reason I chose steel was the tapping would be more durable than aluminum as its only 2mm at each end. [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/7.jpg[/IMG] And the 17mm long steel throat gets into the carb flange throat nice and snug. [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/8.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/9.jpg[/IMG] There is no easy way to bind aluminum to stainless steel, so I mixed up a small amount of Devcon Steel epoxy (same as JB Weld) and applied to the joining surfaces. A small amount is more than enough to hold them together and seal for any airleaks. [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae109/erolsansolo/160fx/10.jpg[/IMG] [b]UPDATE: You can drill a hole thru oppsite side and put a setscrew to secure the throat after a fine application of JB weld.[/b]
Posted on: 3/21/2010 4:16 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9600125

RE: saito 150 byron heli %15 to %15 plane
byrons Heli blend is full sythetic.. the latter is castor/syth blend. I always use and recommend the castor/syth blend in all glow engines. 16-17% oil is usually ample. anything over 18% is unnecessary and slimy IMO.. hell Ive been running my gas converted 160FX with 4-5% mineral oil for 45-50 liters of gas and it shines oily inside out - zero wear.. justed checked it..
Posted on: 3/18/2010 9:44 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9593833

RE: Os 55 ax
Please check your carb connection for airleak... usually a missing bolt on the throat of the carb causes this type of problem on 55ax.
Posted on: 3/15/2010 7:19 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9583208

RE: Running nitro in cold PLEASE HELP
mix some small amount of gasoline in your 5% fuel for ease of starting the engine without preheating in cold environments.
Posted on: 12/26/2009 4:08 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9360473

RE: Do you really get what you pay for?
There is no single reason to valuate a moderate size rc airplane at absurd prices , just because it is fabricated out of glass fiber molds, and some CF here and there with a turbine stand somewhere in there.. There is not so much engineering to justify "R&D" costs behind the plans either.. believe me, there are some friends here - producing and exporting composite rc planes to various places.. I Know.. It is a huge profit business.. It costs so much simply because there are people paying the asking price - even thou they know they are being SO ripped off.. Its like BMW - you know you are being ripped off to some extent, but when you buy the goodies - you freak out..
Posted on: 12/24/2009 4:34 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9356122

RE: COSMOS MODELS 1/4 PIPER CUP (revoluationary building technique )
I think this hugely scale kit deserves a spec details on the first post. Wing Span Wing Chord Fuse Length Wing Loading AUW without power setup (Dry Weight) Recomended Engine (2&4 stroke glow/gas) / E.Motor size & setup(s) AUW with recommended setups Now, I can tell from first hand experience, Ive seen the prototypes maiden flight and a couple of consequent flights. This [b]huge (!)[/b] bird floats like a dream - even with a dead-stick! :) You can actually put a mid size dog as a passenger in this! Also it looks like the real thing once in the air. With the right decals you simply cannot tell if its a 1:1 scale or model.. The original poster will probably mention this, but it also flies as scale as it looks.. Its got that real rudder control you expect from a Cub. This one is simply right on the money. - Oh and also, Ive seen the workshops where it is designed, CNC machined and put together. You dont have to worry about cheap chinese type manufacturing. The parts and CNC machining are of premium quality. Anyway - I dont want to hijack original posters thread and take away their excitement :D Regards, Erol.
Posted on: 9/30/2009 6:45 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135223

RE: NEW DLE30!
aesthetics cost money..
Posted on: 8/23/2009 7:45 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9038742

RE: Dle 111 rod failure
No comments no 100:1 oil ratio after break-in? 1% oil! thats it. Nearly no oil.. I would never run a performance engine on a 100:1 oil ratio, what ever the oil mfg says.. I bet your DL50 will also fail at some point, because of the oil ratio.. Why 100:1 ratio? higher performance? - no.. lower operation temp? - no.. less mess on the plane? - maybe.. cleaner engine internals? - not really.. better protection against heat damage? - at 100:1 hell no!.. so I wonder why?
Posted on: 7/23/2009 4:11 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8956929

RE: What is the strongest 50cc engine?
fact of the matter is, not all airframes are built with tuned pipe tunnels. Basically you cant shove in a full length tuned pipe on every YAK54, Extra 260-300 or Edge 540 (popular examples) because there is no space built in to carry a tuned pipe - hence the need for simple canister exhaust systems and best performance with a simple system.
Posted on: 7/22/2009 11:50 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8954565

RE: DA50-is it worth the extra $$$
Supporting a local company is a good thing but there is a huge difference between retail price of both engines [b]If you are looking to buy from the cheapest source[/b]. And from experience with both, It doesnt worth paying more than double the price of the same/stronger engine. - Yes, DL50 puts out more power on the same day, same moment, same fuel, same oil, same prop, same spinner, same airframe, same arresting rope, same weight scale. The difference is not huge - around 350-400gr of thrust difference. But still counts.
Posted on: 7/20/2009 7:31 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8950013

RE: DL-55 Starting problems
First, readjust your high end needle to 1.65 and low end needle to 1.5 turns out from fully closed. dont use a starter on this engine, it will flood it out. once the spark plug is wet, it will never fire and run. there is no need for a starter anyway. choke on, throttle stick at IDLE, flip 2-3 times, it will cough. choke off, throttle stick 1 click up, flip 2-3 times and off it goes.. every time.. also check your spark plug for correct gap at ground terminal. make sure your throttle pushrod is adjusted correctly.
Posted on: 7/14/2009 5:44 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8933315

RE: OS91FS-II ignition knocking. Wrong fuel or prop?
14x8 is a little big for 91 4 stroke.. 15x6 would cut it but still 14x6 or 13x8 is a much better match for this engine. I recommend you use 15% nitro omega fuel or similar with a castor mix.
Posted on: 7/10/2009 9:09 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8921248

RE: NEW DLE30!
knock on wood jody ;)
Posted on: 7/10/2009 3:55 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8920966

RE: DIY ON-BOARD GLOW SYSTEM THAT WORKS
Im sorry but its very unusual and practically wrong to make a series connection with 2 glowplugs. If one plug is gone, you lose the connection - on top of that, if one plugs resistance change, (just before going south) you will most probably burn the good plug with it. I suggest you change your setup to 2 nicads parallel (for longer duration) and make two parallel connections to glow plug heads from + terminal of the battery.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 3:16 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907397

RE: DIY ON-BOARD GLOW SYSTEM THAT WORKS
btw, very nice and simple setup of on-board glow driver. will work like a charm. mix it with throttle position and get instant glow under 1/4 throttle.!
Posted on: 7/4/2009 3:15 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8906299

RE: DIY ON-BOARD GLOW SYSTEM THAT WORKS
he meant parallel.. :)
Posted on: 7/4/2009 3:14 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8906297

RE: NEW DLE30!
JoeAirPort; NIB DL55 can easily be bought for under $260 a piece. ;) For the DL30, I wasnt expecting side carb with this one.. If it outruns MLD28 then it will take its place quite fast, and be a best seller.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 3:08 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887404

RE: DL-50 Trouble
Its weird you call a simple thing - the spark plug as; "junk. Its not a very complicated thing.. I'll have you know, Ive burned over 40 liters of fuel thru my spark plug since I first started it for breakin - and its still going strong. Yes, its the original.. and happily outrunning two DA50's in the field..
Posted on: 6/27/2009 4:39 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8885123

RE: DL55 rpm transitioning problem
Jezmo I guess you meant 6600-6900 rpm for 22x8.. 23x8 @ 6900 with stock exhaust is over 6HP.. Mine, depending on weather and season, turns the 23x8 around 6300-6500 rpm with excellent transition.
Posted on: 6/18/2009 4:05 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8861397

RE: DL55 rpm transitioning problem
23x8 is not big for DL50 - it wont be big for DLE55.. If your DL is having a hard time with a 23x8 then there is something wrong with it. 23x8 JXF, Xoar or Vess is just the right size for maximum thrust with stock exhaust..
Posted on: 6/12/2009 3:18 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8846093

RE: OS 160 tuned pipe
MVVS 26cc tuned pipe with a custom header works extremely well on 160 FX
Posted on: 6/10/2009 6:52 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8842084

RE: Exhaust Gasket ?
High temp RTV silicone sealant can be used in areas upto 300*C. Once its fully cured (5-10 hours) it will remain soft and flexible. This way it will provide the best seal by taking the shape of the surface its attached. It will also remove easily.
Posted on: 6/3/2009 4:10 AM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8821512

RE:
65 amp car battery OK? :D thats what I keep at my field shed. got sick of those puny 7amp UPS batteries.
Posted on: 5/25/2009 4:23 PM by Author "liquid_TR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8797400