RE: New Indian Mills Replica's
Bob, I saw the message on the MECOA site as well, might very well be legitimate, however there is an internet scam where someone posing as a supplier of various goods attempts to make contact with potential agents and then disappears after recieving some initial payment. "Caveat emptor" Ray
Posted on: 11/16/2009 6:03 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258491

RE: Oliver .09 Tiger Cubs
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dan Vincent The CS-Oliver TC reproduction is what I would call a MK-II, Series-1, while the one in my picture is the later version (with lip for exhaust ring) which I would call a MK-II, Series-II. The Schneurle Cub should be a MK-III to me because it is an entirely different case. There are at least two different case castings for the schneurle. Mine has a bulge on the bypass above the beam mounts while others have a flat bypass, like a MK-II. I'd love to hear some more comments on what to properly call the Schneurle version because I've had guys from England and Scotland in the house who also refer to the Schneurle as a MK-III. [/quote] Dan, Ok, the pics below show (from the left, pics 1 and 2) Tom Ridley's Mk2 and Schneule Cubs. They are thus labled on the Model Engine News web site in the announcement regarding production. See: http://www.modelenginenews.org/ in the October edition. Note both have the "bulge" and they both have the same crankcase! Then look in my b/W pic (centre pic, no. 3) of my late Mk2 (or Mk3) and my Schneurle Cub. Both lack the bulge and they share the same crankcase. The fourth picture (on the right) is of three late production Cubs taken from page 61 of John Goodall's book "The Olivers and a Tiger". Notice that all three Cubs, a Mk2, a Schneurle and a Mk2 R/C Cub all have the bulge and hence share the same crankcase casting. No doubt the Schneurle will have extra passages cut internally but I maintain it is the same externally. Now the label for the pic from Goodall's book says "Cub Mk3, Mk3 Schneurle Special, and a R/C Mk2". He is one who calls the later Mk2's, Mk3's. Yet what's the difference between the R/C motor and the other with radial porting? Ray
Posted on: 10/10/2009 7:19 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161308

RE: Oliver .09 Tiger Cubs
Fiery, Not that anyone's mentioned online on the Barton forum. However a fellow club member has taken delivery of his Oliver Tiger Major from the new production and many people have reported recieving their OT Mk4's. The Model Engine News website reports that Tom is taking orders for the Mk2 Cub and no-one doubts his ability to deliver a very high quality product. Dan, it normally doesn't matter a great deal, but if your Cubs are going onto Ebay then someone will pick up the slight labeling error. The Schneurle Cub isn't a Mk3. The One you have correctly labeled as a Mk2 [b]is[/b] known by some people as a Mk3. There were major changes in the crankcase casting in the late 1960's to accomodate the fitting of a collector ring around the exhaust. The CS Cub in your picture looks more like the "real" Mk2 crankcase. The cylinder bolt bosses cast into the case are the main other difference and from my early Mk2 I'd guess that the early ones were sandcast like your Mk1. However the purists and the Oliver family however still called it a Mk2. The Schneurle Cub was never called a Mk3, just a "Schneurle Cub". Very nice display by the way. Ray
Posted on: 10/10/2009 1:11 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9160992

RE: Oliver .09 Tiger Cubs
Dan, here are some of my Olly Cubs. Rothwell R150 (Oliver Tiger Cub Mk1) on the left, Mk2 Oliver Tiger Cub (Mod) centre, and a team race modified Schneurle Cub on the right with a Cox 049 banjo and needle. This is/was a very common modification. The R150 also has a Cox 049 compatable venturi/banjo assembly. All the engines are used as runners. Ray.
Posted on: 10/8/2009 1:43 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9155695

RE: Oliver .09 Tiger Cubs
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dan Vincent Wow, sounds like my original Oliver engines could be devaluated so I may not sell them. Thanks for the info. [/quote] Dan, thats what I would have thought however it doesn't seem to be happening. The "users", ie the OT bought to be used by fliers seen to have dropped in value but not the collectors standard motors like yours. The Mk 1 in particular seem to bring good prices still. Ray
Posted on: 10/7/2009 11:43 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9155519

RE: Oliver .09 Tiger Cubs
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dan Vincent I've been going through some engines I may be selling and am torn when it comes to parting with these Olivers. The TC-1 is SN TC48 and the MK-II is a MOD engine with SN 1101. I have a question for the Oliver experts concerning my MK-III Schneurle. Arne Hende' brought me this engine and my eyes popped when he pulled it out of a plastic bag. He put his finger up to his lips and said Shhhhh, guys would kill for this engine but I wanted you to have it. He said it has been modified for some 1.5cc racing class in the UK and now has a socket type compression screw and the mounts have been thinned a bit to fit into a slimmer fuselage. He never said whether he modified it or picked it up but the workmanship is superb, like something Arne would do. I have no idea if it has been internally modified like the MOD factory custom versions. [/quote] Dan, Your Schneurle Cub certainly looks like it has been fitted with a very nicely executed “push/pull" diesel head, and the Aluminum cylinder fins have been machined down in diameter possibly to help it fit into a tight cowl. All this may have been for a British 1/2 A Team race model. The Schneurle Cubs were a popular choice for this class in its heyday. Now days people use Eastern European 1.5cc versions of F2C motors. All three versions of the Oliver Cub shown in your pics are now being made again. The Mk1 is now available in a superb version for Vintage 1/2A team race (different rules to the other class) made by Steve Rothwell in Australia. While the original version had a rather flimsy crankshaft the R150 does not. Both the Mk2 and Schneurle Cubs are being made again by the Tom Ridley/ John Oliver partnership. All superb engines, how can anyone suggest that this decade isn't a golden Age for diesels? Ray
Posted on: 10/7/2009 6:24 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154691

RE: New diesel
This is fairly old news. I have one of the unbranded pre-production prototypes (no. 6) in a control line Diesel Goodyear model. The engine is built in Eastern Europe probably by Fora in Russia. It is very well made and mine turns an APC 7 x 6 at 17200 rpm. It's not quite a Nelson but it's designed as a general purpose control line competition motor for the many events that require a motor with a steel liner and iron piston. An AAC version is due in a few months. Mine was 107 Euros landed in Australia. Postage from the Canary Islands took about eight days. There is indeed an r/c version. Maris Dislers has done a full evaluation and test of the Parra 15D (similar to his tests of the Enya and Fora 15D) and it will appear in Australian Control Line News (ACLN) soon. Regards Ray
Posted on: 10/2/2009 6:37 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9141958

RE: Pee Wee .020 cranks?
I'd say Aeromodeller sometime in the 70-80's. Sorry can't be more specific than that. The local free-flighters have been doing it to Cox 0.020's for years with considerable success. Should work with any screw in head engine including Norvels. The way I see it a plain aluminum disk is all thats needed for a contra-piston. Softdrink can metal is "plastic" enough to deform where you want it too yet still retains enough "elasticity" to respond to changes of compression via the comp screw. They have a relativity short life but are easy enough to make in a batch. They clamp betwwen the top of the cylinder and the screw in head. Ray
Posted on: 9/27/2009 10:24 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9128659

RE: Pee Wee .020 cranks?
Homemade diesel conversion for a Cox 020. This might help someone! Ray
Posted on: 9/27/2009 6:29 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9128001

RE: MP Jet Classic 0.40 Diesel
[quote]ORIGINAL: cheshireflyer Hi I just came accross one of these on Ebay but it has no instructions and no spinner nut. It is new and unrun. It will probably end up in a Tomboy. I heard Eric Clutton being mentioned. I was in the same flying club as Eric when I was a youngster. Is there any chance of a scan of those instructions (cheaky) Pete Stoke on Trent England [/quote] Pete, I have a set somewhere I'll have a look this afternoon and if they turn up I'll scan you a copy. Ray
Posted on: 9/25/2009 6:51 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9123951

RE: How do you identify a genuine Mills P-75 Diesel?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dan Vincent I was making a display box for my Mills P-75 and was wondering how do you prove a Mills is genuine and not one of the many replicas. My Mills has a serial number over the right beam mount. [/quote] Both my genuine Mills .75 have the words "Mills England" embossed on the cast backplate. This and the serial numbers on the lugs is my final test. The initial one is the look of the magnesium crankcase. These are like yours usually slightly corroded. Ray
Posted on: 9/25/2009 8:04 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9122516

RE: Diesel Fuel Powered?
[quote]ORIGINAL: fiery Are lamp oil and kerosene the same, apart from the colour of the dye, and the scent added to lamp oil? I have been thinking of trying it in my diesel fuel, but do not want to waste my time as it is more expensive, especially if it does not perform as well as kerosene. [/quote] The best performing kerosene known for model diesels available right now in Australia is the light blue stuff sold in one and four litre containers at "Super Cheap Auto" branches. You probably have one locally. The local team racers are all using it. Much of the other stuff including the lamp oil, performs poorly. Ray
Posted on: 9/24/2009 12:19 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9119524

RE: No Compression
[quote]ORIGINAL: juxy2 I'm not new to this game, in fact I've been playing with diesels for best part of 50 years, but I've never had a problem like this before. I've just acquired a lovely Taifun Hurricane, boxed and perfect - looks like new. Beautiful green anodising, not a mark on it, BUT ... it's got no compression! I thought at first maybe it was just dry, but a coule of drops of oil in the cylinder made no difference. The piston (yes it has one of those ..) goes smoothly up and down the bore like a worn out bicycle pump - the bearings feel like new, the reed valve makes all the right sucking noises - but no compression. I even thought that perhaps the contra piston was missing or damaged but it's there, where it should be, and a proper fit in the cylinder. In any case it's the piston seal that's letting the compression escape. I carefully unscrewed the cylinder from the crank case, and found little sign of the engine being run and the piston was like new - i.e. no staining, and no signs of wear on the sides. I have carefully re-assembled it and made sure that it has gone back together exactly as it should. The problem remains - you can turn it over 'compression' by just twisting the crank between your fingers, and it just blows bubbles out of the exhaust ports. Now I've abused countless engines in my time and found that in fact, they are [i]very [/i]hard to wear out. It takes a great deal of use and indeed abuse to get even halfway to the point where they are becoming difficult to start due to bore wear. Yet here is what appears to be a new, or very little used, high quality engine, in perfect external condition, that on the face of it appears to have totally a worn out bore. Doesn't make sense to me - anyone have any thoughts on this? Regards, Al. [/quote] Al, I'd heard of cases similar to your own, and then it happened to me. I got a well cared for Oliver Tiger Cub off a friend who had stored it away in the mid 60's when he gave up 1/2 A team racing. Compression was way down compared to it's previous state. We put it down to acids from the fuel residue eating away at the 1/10000 of an inch seal at the top of the piston. It came good with a new piston. There arn't a lot of preservative liquids that you can put into an engine that will be effective for decades, and it raises questions about the best method of long time storage for valuable engines. Perhaps in pieces with the piston assembly and the liner in seperate air tight containers? Ray
Posted on: 9/11/2009 12:24 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9085964

RE: Is there any new engines being made?
[quote]ORIGINAL: fiery Please do ... I have been wanting a good replica Mills and kicked myself for delaying when Irvine stopped production. Did Mr. Boddington acquire the tooling and rights to make the engines from Irvine? [/quote] The engines are made by CS in China.
Posted on: 8/19/2009 1:48 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9027491

RE: Enya 41-4CD back in production
[quote]ORIGINAL: Motorboy [quote]ORIGINAL: fiery Variable compression would be a safety issue with a four stroke engine having a forward facing glow plug. A pity, ENYA engineering is at the top of the tree for model engines. engines. [/quote] It happend with me when i bought the Enya 41-4CD, see the link here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5493013 [/quote] Jens, I've just read the other thread. How about trying different volumes of cetane booster in the fuel for your Enya? It seems to me that you can effectivly "raise" the compression by adding more DII than you are using at present. This is done in C/L diesel racing.
Posted on: 8/11/2009 8:28 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9008779

RE: OS 10FSR conversion to diesel?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ddd We respond to all E-mails and yes we make heads for the OS .10 fsr or fp they are great engines. As to the guy that bent the rod in the air I don't think so to much side friction to run that way [b]but fuel lock on the ground[/b] can be done to any little engine. We have sold thousands of OS .10 over the years and they run with more power then glow in all cases. Remeber we have been here of 35 years and have customers that use many of our systems for all these years wit h no ill effects. [/quote] Hey Bob, maybe he had a stuck contra-piston?
Posted on: 7/31/2009 8:00 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8978377

RE: Refueling & priming small diesels
[quote]ORIGINAL: steve111 [quote]ORIGINAL: mike109 How did you manage to get ether? Round here (Dubbo) it is impossible to buy. It seems it is used by people who make ''recreational substances'' and as a result is very had to get. I know the old timer blokes do manage to get it and the last time I bought some, I bought it from them. [/quote] Hi Mike, Presumably Dubbo would have some sort of scientific chemical company that supplies chemicals to schools, industry etc? There doesn't seem to be any problem with them supplying ether. I picked up another 2.5 litre bottle from my local mob only the other day - can't imagine the legal issues are any different in Dubbo from Wollongong. Cheers Steve [/quote] Agree Steve, Sigma Aldrich is the chemical supply company. Their concerns are likely to be Occupational Health and Safety regulation based rather than the "urban myth" about ether being restricted because of it's use by backyard drug manufacturers. You arn't going to make much drug product with 2.5 litres of it anyway. Otherwise it is easily (and legally) available to Sydney control line flyers, and you only have to ask around (or PM me for details) to get in the loop. Ray
Posted on: 7/23/2009 8:37 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958913

RE: Refueling & priming small diesels
[quote]ORIGINAL: Graeme Marion Here in Brisbane the local model shops do not sell ready mixed diesel fuel. I have obtained the necessary ether kero and castor to mix my own. I know that ether escapes readily from plastic containers. In the[i] olden days[/i], diesel came in smallish flat sided metal cans with a spout. One would attach some fuel tubing to the spout and then squeeze the sides of the can to refuel the tank. This was followed by a squirt in the exhaust port. When finished a nail was inserted in the tubing to stop the fuel from spilling. My question is, where do today's modellers source suitable containers? Preferably small enough to carry in your pocket. I'm looking for a simple set-up for a small diesel ...... [u]MP Jet .040[/u] I hope you're not going to say you use a set-up similar to the way you refuel your glo motors. I want to keep it simple and leave the flight box at home. Regards from Sunny Queensland. [/quote] Graeme, I've found that a lot of Auto and Tool maintence products come in suitable "squeeze bottles". Right now I'm using one made from a "Super Cheap Auto" container that had Air Tool lubricating oil in it. I matched it with a suitable plastic cap off something else and they work well. The container has a triangle symbol on the bottom with a "two" in the centre. Withstands diesel fuel very well. The squeese bottles available in the hobby shops just fall apart when you use them with kerocene based fuel. I drill a hole in the cap and insert a short 5 mm steel bolt with a 1/8" hole drilled through it. I solder a short piece of 1/8" copper tubing into the hole. The bolt is held in place by 5 mm I/D washers and a nut. Virtually free and it lasts a long time! Ray
Posted on: 7/23/2009 4:52 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8956955

RE: Need help with OK Cub diesel
The O-Ring in the contra piston is a good place to start investigations on the leaky compression. You might try saturating the upper cylinder in ATF first to see if you can rejuvenate the O-Ring. However be warned about the difficulties of disassembling a +50 Y/O steel/aluminum motor. I absolutely ruined my very sweet running OK 075 diesel in trying to remove (unscrew) the soft unhardened cylinder from the crankcase using "the split hole in the piece of timber holding the cylinder" method. The head came off easily using a spanner. The contrapiston just popped out the top. It travelled a considerable distance , so be careful. Reassembled with a new O-Ring it wouldn't go back via the top of the cylinder. Hence the need to take the latter off to insert it from the bottom. In retrospect a heat gun on the aluminum crankcase might have been better, or maybe not. Good luck, Ray PS: I've just read the Adrian Duncan article cited above. Good stuff! Wish I'd have read it a few years ago [:o]
Posted on: 7/21/2009 8:39 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8951278

RE: PAW .40 R/C needle adjustment
[quote]ORIGINAL: mccarterj Mr. Cox is right about the brass bottoming out. I had a feeling things still were not right and bottomed out the needle and it ran the same. Took the carb off and examined carefully. The hole in the round bar that feed fuel was facing wrong, it is supposed to face accross the air flow. Corrected this and reassembled. Totally different beast, but I couldnt find a happy spot at all any more. I suspected fuel problem, the Dr Diesel gallon I was using was almost empty and I had fueled and unfueled many many times out of that can the ether must be going flat. Decided to eliminate the fuel question and made a batch of homebrew 50,35,15. Very happy now, I don't know Dr Diesel recipe, I will try a fresh can of it I have, if it doesn't behave with close to these settings I am not going to use it. I can't find a supplier that will tell me their percentages here in the US so I guess making my own is the best way to go. I can keep the batches smaller that way too. [/quote] For a TBR conventionally ported iron/steel diesel like the PAW you probably couldn't beat the "Oliver Tiger brew" fuel formula of 20% castor, 32% ether and 48% kero. On top of that (which comes to 100%) add 1.5-2.5% cetane booster as DII (Amsoil) or IPN. It makes a sweet running fuel which has been well proven over half a century. Some things to watch are the qualitiy of the castor and the kerosene. Some castor has platelets that precipate out of mixed fuel after a while and causes all sorts of running problems. Low quality kero also causes running problems. All kero isn't good kero for diesels.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 8:04 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911638

RE: PAW .40 R/C needle adjustment
[quote]ORIGINAL: mccarterj My PAW 40 burns way too much fuel from what I have read. My needle has been set to 2 full turns as the PAW paperwork suggest. I have turned it down to 7/8 turn now and it still runs fine. There appears to be a high pitch noise like metal on metal though at full throttle at times. How lean can / should I run this beast? [/quote] McCarter, besides running too lean you're probably also running a poor quality fuel with insufficient/low quality (castor?) oil. Can you mix your own to PAW specifications? Apparently you are not alone in running PAW's and having problems with the fuel you are using.
Posted on: 7/2/2009 8:30 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8900309

RE: Replacing lost Ether in fuel?
[quote]ORIGINAL: AMB Locktite as before posted Amsoil cetane booster is Octyl Nitrate and works great for our ignition improver martin'' JohnVB down under said2% works MSDS safety sheet states 100% Octyl Nitrate [/quote] Martin, Octyl nitrate ( isooctyl nitrate ) is hexyl nitrate ( 2-ethylhexylnitrate ) (the same thing) Ray
Posted on: 6/30/2009 11:39 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8896598

RE: Replacing lost Ether in fuel?
When you say Amyl Nitrate do you mean Hexyl Nitrate aka DII? I believe that one US based diesel guru sells the latter as the former.
Posted on: 6/30/2009 8:14 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8895936

RE: Replacing lost Ether in fuel?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bill Adair Greg, That's funny! [:D] Matter of fact, I was doing a Google search for Ether, and pulled up a court case where a drug making group was being prosecuted. Seems they sent a young lady to buy Ether, so she bought thirty-six cans of the same starter fluid I bought. I'm expecting a knock on the door anytime now! [:D] Bill [/quote] Bill, it's unlikely you're in the demographic. Ray
Posted on: 6/29/2009 2:09 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8889905

RE: Mystery diesel
It's definitely from outside the Anglo-sphere. I can't find any pictures of a FOK, like ZOM's they turn up regularly on ebay. I'd guess that both of these were heavily influenced by the German Webra MK2, which in turn was an interpretation of the Oliver Tiger/Rivers TBR diesels. The Webra's seem to be much rarer these days. FFkiwi, is right it's going to need David Owen. Ray
Posted on: 6/19/2009 8:40 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8865730

RE: Mystery diesel
[quote]ORIGINAL: ffkiwi Here's me asking a question for a change. A friend of a friend fired the attached photo my way yesterday asking if I could identify it. I can't-but my best guess iis something of east european origin. The resemblance to the Rivers Silver Streak Mk2 is very strong-(crankcase, prop driver and spinner) but the fins are all wrong. The original SS and CS replicas were never coloured. I don't know if it is roller bearing, ball raced or whether the apparent front ball race housing is there for cosmetic purposes only. Certainly the designer was clearly influenced by the Rivers design.  The owner is proposing to use it in FF scale. Anyone got a positive ID? Jens Erik? Dave Owen? George/  [/quote] Some features suggest it could be ZOM, Spanish 2.5cc diesel. If it was it could be a Mark one. I have a Mark 2, and there are a few pics on Ron Chernich's web site of Mk2 and later ZOMS. Otherwise how about a FOK from memory they also look like a ZOM. The pic below shows a ZOM mk2 from Ron's site. What does the writing on the crankcase say? Ray
Posted on: 6/19/2009 9:03 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8864441

RE: DDD heads destroying engines?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bill Adair I've tried to check my McCoy diesel cranks for the round intake holes, but can't see past the spraybars. Hate to pull the cranks, or punch out the spraybars, so I guess I'll just have to see if they break.. George, My thoughts were that a smaller prop means a lighter load on a diesel, or any engine for that matter. Did your source mean that it was harder on the engine, or that it would make it  harder to start? I've come to the conclusion that my fuel has lost too much ether, but don't know how to tell just how much to add? Should I buy a can of starter fluid, and spray a short burst into the fuel to see if starting improves? Perhaps a better method, would be to open the can overnight, and then add the percentage of ether I want? Bill [/quote] Bill I really believe that this notion of easy ether loss in diesel fuel is an urban myth. Try an experiment by mixing say 20ml of castor with about 30 ml of ether. You will find that when they mix you get much less than 50ml. As the air temperature rises the greater will be the apparent loss. My guess is that some of the castor breaks down in solution with ether (a solvent for almost everything) and the resulting solution is of lesser volume than the arithmetic sum of the parts because of the partial solubility. As the air temperature changes the total volume will change, hence the apparent "loss" of ether. Try it! [:D]
Posted on: 6/18/2009 7:26 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8861546

RE: DDD heads destroying engines?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dan Vincent Bill, The McCoy .09 diesel never gave me any problems but I knew several guys who broke crankshafts in the early McCoy .049 diesel with the 2-screw radial mount. With any diesel, start with low compression and then slowly add compression with an ear listening for any sounds of distress.  I never broke a crankshaft on any diesel because I listen for that  [/quote] The McCoy 049 radial mount diesel distinguished itself by breaking a crankshaft during its official Aeromodeller Engine Test. McCoy quickly produced a replacement higher strength crank and the test was completed and published. I have a few of these and the beam mount later versions and find them delightful little motors. I have a copy of the Aeromodeller test somewhere. regards Ray
Posted on: 6/16/2009 10:03 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8856224

RE: New Fora 1.5D for CL
I have a Fora Pioneer. It has considerable sub piston induction (SPI). This would limit its performance with a muffler. The 1.5cc motor is also likely to have SPI. Hence my comment. The 1.5cc is likely to be a higher rev'er than the 2.5cc, which was designed as a beginners racing/combat motor. The former is probably meant to run at high speed on those tiny GF props the Europeans use in combat. Possibly Fora's answer to the JAK 1.5cc combat motor. Ray
Posted on: 5/31/2009 7:02 PM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8814353

RE: New Fora 1.5D for CL
[quote]ORIGINAL: gkamysz Jens, that is a possibility. I'm looking into how to get one. I agree the 1.5cc size is a nice size. It's just big enough to avoid all of the small engine problems and small enough to be, well, small. [/quote] It looks like it has an integral AAC liner similar to the Fora 2.5cc "Pioneer". I'd suggest a strap on muffler would be likely to damage this, and probably seriously rob it of it's perfprmance. If you must run a muffler on a 1.5cc duesel why don't you buy a TBR PAW. Otherwise I can give you the contact details for a likely UK source.
Posted on: 5/31/2009 10:05 AM by Author "locktite401" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8813361