For rust junkies
Genuine weathering examples...presumably from one of the Balkan conflicts p
Posted on: 9/11/2012 4:20 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224767

RE: HL KV-2 turret
I suppose the simplest thing to do if one wanted to know what it is and where it came from would be just to email the vendor selling it........
Posted on: 4/22/2012 12:20 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11052373

RE: HL KV-2 turret
Compared to the complaints being made about the resin Stug kit elsewhere...this seems like a bit of a gift. Looks reasonable, comes in airsoft and ir options, and seem to fit seamlessly with a standard tank body that is readily available for a miniumum of work and a reaonable price at least compared to various offerings from Juckenberg and is available from a highly reliable vendor. I dont know whats not to like about it. As to people looking for less known models and sub variants.....styrene is cheap and they cannot be that hard to build? p
Posted on: 4/19/2012 1:37 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11048176

RE: HL KV-2 turret
Well I suppose if you two managed to keep your supercilious attitudes in check for once in your lives......you might have interpreted the post in the way it was meant. An assertion that it was the german version with inclusion of the question to keep from appearing to be exactly what you two invariably come across as. As for the gun....I'd swear I remember seeing a shot of a KV something or other with what looked like a german muzzle break on it. p
Posted on: 4/18/2012 1:05 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047467

RE: HL KV-2 turret
I just noticed......is it a German turret? Given the cupola? I though the gun was supposed to be fdifferent? p
Posted on: 4/18/2012 10:07 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047243

RE: HL KV-2 turret
Thats very nice.....especially as the body for the tank can be had about 40 euro from the same place. Good to see Heng Long + whoever was resposnible extending the range of affordable tanks. p
Posted on: 4/18/2012 10:05 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047240

RE: 1/10 soviet steel
I think the design of components in this case is due to ignorance and lack of skills as opposed to ingenuity! Then again the level of engineering skill is probably reflective of the brutal engineering designs of the Soviets at the time! Thinking about it....1/10 is probably the best scale there is in terms of ease of handling, internal space in the tank, weight/volume ratios etc etc. I never saw 1/10 before and always balked at the sheer size of 1/6 or 1/8 (if I cannot get it into the boot of an average European car...then I dont see th epoint). But 1/10 is absolutely super. detail bits are achievable without using a magnifiying glass, there is room to work, +/- 0.5 mm doesnt make a hell of a difference.... But steel is a problem. Im cut to ribbons, making a part is an investement in time and labour when compared to just cutting something out of styrene, drilling accurate straight holes without a bench press would drive you crazy, not having the use of glue is a problem. Then again, brazing is brilliant, being able to bash things into shape with a hammer is a bonus and the strength of nuts and bolts are just unbeatable as fixings. I just wish there were more aftermarket parts for 1/10 scale. p
Posted on: 4/12/2012 12:49 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11038553

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
Those are nice hinges and I possibly could knock up a few if I put my mind to it. But the engine deck hinges on a stug3 are substantially different .... they have a very 3 dimensional shape and are pretty characteristic. If I just wanted functionality I would make hinges or just but minature hinges from somewhere. The link Maus45 posted shows this 3D nature very well. Saying that, I have actually gone some way to fabricating something resembling them from minature window hinges. When finisihed I will post a piccie I think... p
Posted on: 4/11/2012 11:14 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11038521

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
Those arent half bad! Nice tip thanks! p
Posted on: 4/11/2012 6:52 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11037402

RE: 1/10 soviet steel
Bit of an update after the easter break. Worked hard on the suspension system for the KV. Not easy...drilling 1 mm holes straight enough for threading in 6 mm silver steel with a battery powered screwdriver would test anyone... Took ages to source the springs. Not an easy job as buying springs is a hassle given how they are described. So I got a bunch of ATV exhaust springs which do the job nicely. Then I had to learn how to braze steel to make the arms.........then had to wait until my learning burns healed before I could continue. The suspension is adjustable in the spring can fasten at any position along the arms or the eye bolt can be lengthened to soften it out. AS it is its fairly robust but thats what I was after. 1/10 scale, despite the lack of aftermerket bits, is a joy as its much easier to work with. Although saying that....the weight is ballooning. p
Posted on: 4/11/2012 6:50 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11037400

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
Those triangular boxes are the ones I saw on ozarmor making me wonder what the hell I had. But they could be Mato version 1 gears. I might spend some time trying to get them up to scratch. I wish I didnt have to.....they are fiddly as hell what with all the shaft collars and everything. p
Posted on: 4/11/2012 5:01 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11037275

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
I havent weighed it yet as there are bits to attach (although nothing too heavy) but I imagine it will be maximum something around 5 or 6 kg? It doesnt feel as heavy as a metalled Tiger but given the fact that the standard batteries are 1.7 Ah or whatever....Im going to have to stick two in there to get any sort of running time out of it. And space is limited. Although not to the extent I thought it would be. The misaligned box I can probably work with...its the other that bothers me. Ive had it apart a hundred times and for the life of me I cannot figure out why it is "sticking".....it takes a lot of force just to spin it from the sprocket side. Rotating the gear wheels nearest the motor are no problem at all. But trying to turn the drive wheel would break you r wrist. And yes....I know its supposed to be harder to turn it at the end of the gear chain!!!! BUt not this hard..... P
Posted on: 4/11/2012 1:01 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11037167

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
I was a bit annoyed alright and did consider returning them. Unfortunately , I did a long dance with Norwegian customs when they entered the country and had to pay taxes on them. When I saw one was wonky I thought I will return it. Then I discovered how much the postage would cost and that, unless I was willing to do another dance with teh customs, I may have to pay taxes when they reentered the country (unless I had documentation to show repair in the foreign country) .... I just couldnt face it. I did hear that it was the length of the shaft that was the problem and that only certain drive wheels would fit....the diameter appears to be fairly standard. If you go to Welsh Dragon for example ...the Asiatam boxes they sell (and are out i of stock of) recomend that you buy the drive wheels with them as they may not fit the standard HL wheels (which I may or may not have as I dont know). Actually looking at the Mato boxes as advertised on ozarmor...may be I dont have Mato boxes. Mine look more like this one. I got them on ebay I think...... its more than a year ago. I might just get a set of original HL boxes and live with them. 60 quid STG for Asiatam is a bit much.... p
Posted on: 4/11/2012 12:24 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11037149

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
Im afraid so. One of them is so out of alignment in two directions that its hard to see how it can be fixed short of making a new frame for it. The other just doesnt move without huge force applied. Something stuck deep in it I suppose. They really are a nasty set but I bought the drive wheels with them and I dont want to buy another set of gears and maybe have to buy another pair of drive wheels. I heard a lot of bad things about them and thought it couldnt be all bad. So I bought them. My mistake. p
Posted on: 4/10/2012 11:12 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11037109

RE: All metal Stug iii F: experimental build
Thought Id post an update on tis as it is actually nearing completion I think. Premise was as outlined in the first post - hand tools, files and hacksaws only and no lathes, bench drills or anything fancy. Lot of details to fix up all though most of them are ready but I cannot be bothered screwing them all on to take photos and then screwing them all off again. very dissappointed with the sh!te Mato boxes but I aint spending money to replace them . I'll fix them up as best I can. Loads of innacuracies but in the toss up between finsihing and 100% accuracy - having a finsdihed model wins out every time. Its the late model Ausf F so I can avoid the hard headlights and just have the Notek light in the centre. Sweet! P
Posted on: 4/10/2012 1:35 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11036432

1/1 scale handmade Pz IV
So heres a guy in Russia who built a life size moving Pz IV from bits and pieces. Must have used a lot of plastic cement and modelling putty....... http://2leep.com/bar.php?url=http://2leep.com/news/878220/0/more/
Posted on: 4/10/2012 12:25 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11035601

RE: Dragons 1/6 PzII RC'ed Video
It looks like he's driving the whole thing from an RX18. Must be the only 1/6 tank in existence using that? Excellent way to get a 1/6 tank for tiny money...... and its not like you'd break your back getting it into the car. p
Posted on: 3/21/2012 5:38 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11009318

Dragons 1/6 PzII RC'ed Video
Did a nice job on this. And that kit can be got for about 199 stg,. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE0f0vIBMsM
Posted on: 3/21/2012 4:44 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11009270

RE: magazine
Scale Military Modeller International (www. sampublications) is very good - all scales, not just armour but full fo interesting topics and best of all - some great advertisements for things you might never stumble across on the net. Not sure if an RC tank mag would ever survive. 1/35 has the modelling side sown up and when you consider the huge range of models in that scale.........it would be difficult to run a mag using the 10 or so (if even) RC models available. Only so many articles you could write about the Tiger! p
Posted on: 3/5/2012 5:50 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10987131

RE: Drive Torque
will those not be a bit heavy? They must be 1.5 kg each? p
Posted on: 3/3/2012 10:34 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10984989

RE: What Gearbox ratio with Bradley Vehicle
work out the top speed of the vehicle in reallife. Divide by its scale. work out that value in m/s. Then use the diameter of the drive wheel on the scale vehicle to work out the angular velocity it should have (flat out) to give those m/s (linear). Then the required rpm of the motor/gear combo is known. Its just a matter of matching them. p
Posted on: 3/2/2012 2:26 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10983720

RE: Drive Torque
I have a couple or more. 2 of them are from the usual 90 degree adapters for drills but wont fit in a HL - big and greasy things with large housings. The other I have is this one: http://www.mfacomodrills.com/gearboxes/bevel_gearbox.html Its small and I intend it to be able to withstand hauling a max 60 kg tank up 30 degree slopes which needs about 7 or 8 Nm . According to its spec sheet on that site, its rated for up to momentary torques of 2 Nm so Im going to have to reinforce the housing as I reckon thats whats likely to go crack. But its reasonably small, light (50 g or so) and able to take HL tank type torques. And the shafts a re a good size (5mm) and have flats. Two cost me 40 euro from Europe. I imagine they are cheaper in the US. p
Posted on: 3/1/2012 10:45 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10983077

RE: Drive Torque
Thats a fact....bevel gears (the right angle gearbox) are only typically 70% efficient, spur gears are more - like 90%. Then again if you have 5 or 6 spur gears in a set up (like a HL 3:1 box), then the efficiency rapidly plummets....probably 65% or thereabouts...... At any rate...you dont have to do any measurements...if you know the torque of your bare motor (and you can work it out even if you dont as its just a product of power by angular speed or something) then: the motors naked torque multiplied by the radius of gear1 is equal to the torque at gear 2 multipled by the radius of gear 2. And so on down through the gears.......eventually getting to: torque at gear X muliplied by radius of gear X is wuqal to the weightof your tank multiplied by the radius of gear x. Of course the "weight" of your tank is some product of a number of forces depending on the angle its driving on although a bit of trigonometry will find that. Or something like all that. At any rate, I think the question that was being asked is actually related to the torque of the 90 degree box. Ive bought some of these and the torque is listed as a spec....I think they are the torques required to either 1) get i moving or 2) break it (the "peak torque"? and 3) the torque required to keep it moving once moving. at any rate, the ones I have are no problem to spin at all so I doubt the torques providied by aHL setup will be too small? p
Posted on: 3/1/2012 8:26 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10982897

RE: Drive Torque
If you had a heavy tank - lets say 5 kg - and the diameter of the drive wheel was 8 cm, and lets say you motor/gear was 50% efficient in total, then to get that tank up a 30 degree incline you would need motors delivering about 1 Nm. For a 50 degree incline - 1.5 Nm. For driving round on the flat - 0.02 Nm. The more the weeight goes up - the more the torque. 10 kg tank at 45 degrees will be over 2.5 Nm. The speed you go up the hill shouldnt change the amount of torque required to get you up. So ballpark....a 6 kg tank going around mixed terrain where the maximum incline to get over is 45 degrees will need motor/gears able to deliver up top maybe 1.6 Nm tops. p
Posted on: 2/29/2012 11:29 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10982547

RE: Unique drive set-up?
Those are planetary gears on the inside. So the giggest one would be the size of the box itself. Seems to me thats way bigger than the largest one on any standard 1/16 gearbox. If they are made of metal...Im not sure the size would have much to say? p
Posted on: 2/17/2012 5:09 AM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10962897

RE: Just received my new Taigen Tiger hull
This looks very nice. And on sale for 76 dollars at welshdragon! p
Posted on: 2/15/2012 11:15 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10961211

RE: Who has a Asiatam Tiger hull?
To be fair to the thing.......many of the problems could probably be avoided with a little work. But some are always going to be an issue. Like the cracking swing arms. Why they couldnt shove some metal up front where flexing has the potential to cause real issues is beyond me. If you go here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2487688 you can see the little spear heads that are screwed into the pillars coming down from the upper hull. Those things are held in to the plastic by little self tappers - that metal screw to plastic join is under a fair bit of pressue (they keep the hull together in effect) and after a few months I noticed that the pillar was cracking where the screw went in. I also had trouble with the axles for the idelrs being a bit long which required some work too. To my mind the front latch which has about 1 mm of "grippage" to a flexing plastic plate, the tensioners and the swing arms are the weak points. But if you dont drive the thing to hard (like on anything other than a flat surface), dont let it crash into anything head on and are willing to take the hit in terms of battery life (I get 15 minutes of mixed driving with that hull and metal tracks) - then its fine. And you can always go back to the plastic hull if you dont like it. p
Posted on: 1/31/2012 11:28 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10937956

RE: Who has a Asiatam Tiger hull?
There is also an issue with the tensioners where they physically cannot work - literally, when they start to feel resistance from the track, they cease to function. I posted a detailed set of pictures about this ages ago and which are here somewhere. Here they are: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9751873/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm The adjuster screw is not fixed to the back of the housing. If the force exerted by the track/idler is greater than the weak little spring - then your tensioning days are over. That might be fine with plastic tracks and wheels, but if the track is metal then the weight of the track factors in and the tensioners become essentially useless. In addition, a huge amount of space is lost due to the raised floor and torsion bars - the benefit of which I am still unconvinced as to. Plus, the catch mechanism for holding the upper hull to the lower thing - its not well engineered and requires hacking of the pillars down from the upper hull reducing their strength and introducing a serious amount of hull flex. In addition to all that - even if the tensioners were well designed - you are fundamentally limited with what you can do with them by the fact that adjustment of the screw beyond anything minimal means the screw hits the rear plate of the tank (the one holding the exhausts). And if that wasnt enough - that plate doesnt always fit as well as it should thanks to some sloppy design of the hull itself. All things to watch out for. Unless the hull is suddenly super cheap I would think carefully. Especially as mato have a metal hull which seems to be a better match for the HL upper hull given that it is casted from the original. p
Posted on: 1/31/2012 10:50 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10937930

RE: Who has a Asiatam Tiger hull?
Th emetal lip that locks (thats a joke!) into the lower hull does not sit firmly. If th eplastic of the bottom hull or th etop bit flexes (and it does) out it comes and it looks seriously stupid as well as being annoying. There are problems with th eholes on th elower plate for holding things like control boards etc etc. The swing arms are cheapo metal and probe to crack around the grub screw holes. All in all.....I was seriously sorry I bought the thing and would have been just as happy using sheets of metal to shor up th esides myself. And teh suspension is no nothing great either. p
Posted on: 1/31/2012 12:40 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10937164

RE: International Radio Control Tankers Organization
Im not being a twit (or at least not intending to be one)....but surely the moniker is misleading? As the emphasis is heavy on the IR battling aspect, an aspect which one suspects is not the main concern of many RC tankers, should the title not include the IR part? p
Posted on: 1/29/2012 12:35 PM by Author "lposter" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10933873