RE: Top flite spitfire weight
I have a Spit that weight, but with a 91 2S in it. It was an ARF rebuild where I went a bit overboard with the beefing it up. No flaps so landing has to be done fast, but she is the fastest Sunday flyer at the field and has outlived every other regular flyer. When the wind is blowing and most other planes are grounded, this is the one I will fly. It has great penetration, and manoeuvres are realistic, but level flight is visibly faster than scale. To me it handles better than a light one, more like flying the real thing. Currently about to start building a TF Spit, and I would be happy if it came out at that weight.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 3:38 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222961

RE: Landing Gear for VQ 60 size Hurricane
I also have had good experiences with the Spring air retracts and oleos in this model. But I would advise another brand of filler valve, as I have had 5 spring air filler valves fail in as many months.
Posted on: 10/31/2009 11:39 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218986

RE: Greg Wright's p-38
Nice just doesn't quite say it [:D]
Posted on: 10/27/2009 8:23 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207441

RE: Retracts - Mechanical or Pneumatic?
Although pneumatics are more expensive you get you pay for, that is, they are easier to fit, operate more reliably, easier to maintain. You can expect anywhere from 6 to 20 odd operations per charge depending on size of tank, size of cylinder, and type of valve. Mechanicals are cheaper to buy, but you do need to buy a good quality servo ($165UAD for a JR) which is almost what I pay for a cheap set of pneumatics (which can use any small servo for the valve), and you do run the risk of mechanicals draining your battery if for some reason it stalls, although I have run a lot and had them stall (leg bent, wheel wont go in the well) and have never drained a battery. Some people use a separate retract battery. You will spend much more time adjusting and maintaining mechanicals. For a 40 size mechanicals are probably ok, but anything bigger pneumatics is the way to go.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 3:53 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196488

RE: Simulating bomb drops
Most bomb drops I have seen use a re-useable bomb rear end with an 'eggshell' type nose with the powder in it. The nose is usually made from a thin plaster cast. A young flyer at our field had good success with a bomb moulded in F/G in two halves, filled with powder, and just taped the two halves together. It suffered slight cracks on our hard dry ground after about 3 or 4 drops, but was easily repaired. From what I have seen the moulded front gives the best 'blast'.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 3:40 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193922

RE: RCV engine opinions needed
I would have to concur with that opinion. Some people seem to have no issues but I had 3 destroy themselves. I still have a 60SP and 2 x 58CD's to play with, but the company took back the 3 120SP's for a full refund. The CD's by the way are a totally different fish to the SP's. I am assuming you are asking about the SP's? They are heavy, vibrate like crazy, did I mention heavy, have cooling issues, and don't forget - heavy. The company was very good to deal with and I have suggested to people they give them a try based solely on that point. Don't know now that the company is in different hands. And trying to use 4 at once, hmmm... would be interesting in a sadistic sort of way.
Posted on: 10/8/2009 2:24 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9156653

RE: help question please ???????
You may have to come up with some mix to activate the extra function you want. I assume you are after an additional function in your plane. There are no add ons for your Tx that I have ever heard of, but maybe you could pick up some ones old 4 channel for next to nothing. Then you will need another Rx for that. Things start to get messy.
Posted on: 10/3/2009 3:56 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143897

RE: Wing spoilers vs. ailerons??P-61 Black Widow had spoilers....
Only the early prototypes & P-61A's had spoilers and full span flaps, all later variants had a small aileron at the wing tips and the spoiler. Apparently the wing aileron is better flight adjustment and trim as apposed to flight control. Having had a P-61 model with the spoilers I was very surprised at how efficient they were.
Posted on: 9/25/2009 10:13 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124410

RE: RCV58CD in a VQ AT6 Texan
I have had a couple of VQ Texan "Ghost Riders" with RCV58CD's in them, does that answer your question? I tried running it out of fuel one day, cruising around at half throttle, and gave up at 47 minutes, landed, ran it for a few minutes more before deciding its fuel economy will outlast my flying concentration any day. Always found it hard to land without ground looping it though. A great flyer, goes where you point it and the RCV58CD has plenty of power to fly it well. What more can I say.
Posted on: 9/22/2009 6:39 AM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9114652

RE: What servo would you use?
Just one point, anyone who recommends a standard type servo for mechanical retracts is not quite on the ball. Too many ways to come undone, and the saving on the servo's will probably cover half the cost. And if your going to this expense, may I ask, why are you not putting good pneumatic retracts in her? Are you using a simple Rx, or are you running one with more complex features, such as servo balancing, in which case you don't need the programming capabilities of the servo. Do you really need digitals on the flaps? Metal geared? They quote a pretty hefty servo for rudder, which might be fine on an aerobat, but in my experience the warbirds are pretty light on rudder forces, and rarely need metal gears. And does it need to be digital? Ailerons and elevator I always go for the best I can afford, and always metal gears in ailerons. Throttle, never metal gears but I would go for bearing rather than bushing, but this can depend on the type of linkage you have to the motor, ie: a bowden cable saves a lot on your servo but solid wire linkages are much harder on your servo. Just some thoughts to throw into the mix. Mike
Posted on: 9/16/2009 3:03 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9100852

RE: way point navigation
If you check out the Ardupilot project at http://www.diydrones.com/ it should give you plenty of ideas and even source code to get you started at minimal cost. It even handles stabilisation on the same board.
Posted on: 9/15/2009 5:41 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9098238

RE: Automatic Aircraft Stabilization
http://www.roborealm.com/ might be of some interest in this area
Posted on: 9/15/2009 4:58 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9098138

RE: School Project help
You are, essentially, building another remote control to the one you already have. So quite apart from the obvious, Laptop and Joystick, you will need some way to read the joystick and code it into commands then send it out the serial port. Have a look at http://www.roborealm.com for this, makes the job much simpler. From the serial port you are going to need to send it to the plane, something like the XTend or XBee modems should do the trick for you. In the plane you need a microprocessor board to connect the modem to and multiplex you Rx signals and autopilot signals to the servos. Have a look at http://www.millswoodeng.com.au Then you will need an autopilot to interpret the commands and turn them into servo pulses. Something like the Ardupilot might do the job here, at least it is cheap at only $25US, check out http://www.diydrones.com. They also have some opensource code that will get you started and it already handles stabilisation, which is another aspect you will need to look at. I trust this is enough info to get you started. Mike
Posted on: 9/15/2009 4:55 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9098131

RE: Z-poxy not setting?
Z-Poxy and some others eventually "go off" If you have used them over time, check where you used it and you will find that each use is a bit more rubbery than the one before it. I also had this happen, unfortunately it was a friends plane I was repairing. He brought it back a couple of days later and the epoxy was still as runny as when it was mixed, and yes, it was mixed and mixed well. Had to use alcohol to clean it all off and buy some fresh epoxy. I now always keep them in the fridge, along with all the other goos and glues. So don't be too quick to blame someone for making a mistake, the answer is not always the obvious one to you.
Posted on: 9/15/2009 12:45 AM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096597

RE: TF Corsair with 120SP maiden video
That's a mighty fine looking Corsair you have built. I followed the thread for some time while I built TF Corsair and it came in at 6kg (13.2lb) and if anything I think it helps it fly in a more realistic manor. You DO have to stay in front of the plane every second of flying though. Interestingly enough I started with an RCV 120SP in the Corsair and they are a great engine, pulls it round like a freight train. Unfortunately I had 2 engines fail and ended up sending them back. Real glad to see you only had minor damage and it will fly again. Many happy landings Mike
Posted on: 8/21/2009 4:15 AM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9032912

RE: line folowing aerial vehicle
With an electromagnetic approach the colour and lighting is immaterial. Something like the Ardupilot or Paparazzi would be a place to start, and next would be the question of what sensors you are going to use. If you are going to follow a wire with a signal in it then you will need a detector to pick up that signal and give a value to the microcontroller. Your software will simply detect the strongest signal path to follow and use that to drive you guidance, most likely the rudder input. I would suggest you download the Ardupilot code and have a look through it to determine if it suites your needs or you can cope with that level of code, because that is what you will need to work with to produce a guidance system.
Posted on: 8/21/2009 4:10 AM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9032908

RE: line folowing aerial vehicle
It seems like the best options if you want an airborne vehicle would be a Heli or a quadcopter. In part it would depend on your payload and it's weight. What size craft are you anticipating? How big is the 'indoors'? Are you looking for visual recognition of the line or electromagnetic recognition? Big difference in developing the 2 systems.
Posted on: 8/20/2009 3:21 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9031404

RE: Automatic Aircraft Stabilization
The servo control and stabilisation are pretty straight forward. A good place to start would be having a look at the open source code of Ardupilot on DIY Drones in their version 2 software. They are using the FMA sensors, as is nearly everyone else producing a cheap autopilot, so you might be onto something if you can do image analysis instead of using the IR sensors. I would see that as the biggest challenge. Although a camera in each direction would still cost a lot more than the FMA Thermopiles.
Posted on: 8/13/2009 4:16 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9013895

RE: My first crash
No, just making a suitable sized slot to securely anchor another tongue is really a minor job if you have the right tools. I don't think you need to perform major surgery. And your cabinet maker friend might even show you easier ways to slot the root ribs. Good luck and happy landings in the future. Mike
Posted on: 8/13/2009 1:00 AM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9012440

RE: My first crash
As that tongue and the wing bolts hold the entire load of the fuse the repair needs to be secure. What sort of tools do you have? You could Dremel out the ply so you had a slot going into the wing a reasonable amount and epoxy in a replacement tongue or Remove the tongue altogether, and as you have to replace the front former in the fuse, change the mount to using a couple of dowel pins instead. There are probably other methods, but this is the fun of construction (or repair), inventive ways of coonstruction. It's only right as we have such inventive ways of destruction [:)]
Posted on: 8/12/2009 11:08 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9012170

RE: Camera for recon UAV
Range video have a wide selection of components including cameras, but mostly in the TV resolutions. We are having good results with Mintron cameras, which you can get to just about any spec you want.
Posted on: 8/12/2009 3:38 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9010966

RE: RCV 58-CD Mid Range Sputter
The trouble there is that the main needle also has an influence on that setting, so you can end up out of whack (technical term) over the whole range. When in doubt, reset the needles. Close the main needle then wind it out 1 1/2 turns. Close the throttle so you can JUST get a fine pin into the barrel opening (<1mm) Connect silicone tubing to the carb fuel nipple and blow through it. You should be able to detect a SLIGHT leakage of air. This is a good starting point. Start the motor, and while running WOT, adjust you main needle for max rpm then richen SLIGHTLY. Take it back to idle and adjust idle needle for max rpm at idle then richen SLIGHTLY. That should do it.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 4:23 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9002533

RE: RCV 58-CD Mid Range Sputter
The position of the idle seems a tad rich. This can make a lot of difference in trying for a good tune. How did you arrive at the idle setting you are using?
Posted on: 8/8/2009 3:04 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9000089

RE: RCV60SP
Vibration is a big factor with these engines. The torsional vibration is probably equivalent to a badly out of tune 4 stroke, but the mass behind this vibration is what can cause damage if you have not built the firewall and supporting structure to withstand it. The other consideration is weight, these are a HEAVY engine. Although is usually quite a good thing when doing scale warbirds. When running they PULL, like a freight train. Not sure about support any more, but when you just dealt with RCV I would recommend you try the motors, as their support is second to none, but they have been very quiet on the forums the past year or so. If you decide to try them I would be interested to hear how you go.
Posted on: 7/23/2009 4:21 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958258

RE: Someone help me fix a fibreglass fuselage
To stabilise the outside I use thin CA. Just push everything back together as neatly as possible and wick thin CA into it to hold it all together. As mentioned, some glass and resin on the inside to strengthen the area. And to finish off the outside I rub bicarb into any cracks or dings and harden with thin CA. Looks to be a simple repair.
Posted on: 7/17/2009 3:42 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8941672

RE: Sickening
That's how you become a better pilot, the pain will always educate where common sense hasn't.
Posted on: 6/24/2009 4:01 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8877697

RE: Bent Prop Shaft
Disassemble the motor and run the shaft on a straight surface, glass is good, then using a hammer, GENTLY tap the high spots (not on the glass by the way). Keep doing this until you have it flat as you roll it across the glass. Most times it will be straight enough. Alternatively buy a new shaft and reassemble.
Posted on: 6/24/2009 3:59 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8877695

RE: obliterated brand new corsair
Congrat's sgt peanut, I hope it's the first of many happy rebuilds.
Posted on: 6/19/2009 4:47 AM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8864214

RE: obliterated brand new corsair
No REAL warbird has a nice clean paint job, the more battle scared the better. [:D]
Posted on: 6/14/2009 10:17 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8852232

RE: obliterated brand new corsair
Sounds like a bent shaft, which commonly happens with any frontal impact with these types of motors and/or gearboxes. You can try to fly it but there are 2 common things that happen 1 the vibration robs you of a lot of power and 2 things start falling off the aircraft. Neither is very good for continued enjoyment of the model. If you can disassemble the motor and remove the shaft, roll it on a glass surface (very flat) and you should be able to see the bend. You could try giving it a slight tap with a hammer on the high point (and not while on the glass[:)]) and check it again. Keep doing this until you are happy it is straight and reassemble. I have got away with this method quite a few times. Saves buying new motors all the time.
Posted on: 6/14/2009 6:59 PM by Author "mboland" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8851722