RE: Antenna length question
In the same band, different RXs can be tuned for best response to different lengths of aerial, so don't be too surprised to find differing lengths. On the other hand, if they have been modified/repaired in their past lives, they might not have the original length. Unless you are looking for extreme range, a few inches either way probably won't make a vast difference.
Posted on: 9/14/2012 2:16 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228069

RE: Nitro boat electric stuff
Servos plug into the CH1 and CH2 slots with the black wire to the outside of the case. CH1 (right hand stick) works the steering servo, CH2 is the throttle (left hand stick). The receiver battery plugs into the BATT slot, black wire to the outer edge of the case. With everything powered up, the servos move to mimic the stick positions.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 1:43 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201797

RE: Transmitter question
A mate of mine faced a similar dilemma last year. It was pointed out to him that he could get a cheap basic 2.4GHz TX and RX combo for less than the price of the extra RX for his all-singing, all dancing, all bells and whistles Futaba. Don't know if this applies equally to Hitech.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 1:58 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198427

RE: Gennaker?
Yes, it has been done. However, when you look at the mess that professional racers, who are on the boat and have a good view, manage when tacking these rigs, you realize why they are uncommon on models.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 6:53 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Sailboats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192890

RE: prop needed
Could be a Robbe Eco, in which case it will likely be an M4 thread.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 2:26 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191282

RE: ESC reverse speed?
Mechanical speed control. Usually consists of a wiper arm that is moved across a heavy resistor coil by a servo. These, because of their nature, only work properly with the motor that they were intended for, and not all have reverse. Because they are mechanical, they do eventually need adjusting to allow for wear of the wiper which results in either poor control, radio interference, both, or failure. Since the wiper moves over steps in a resistance wire, the controller operates in discrete speed steps. This is why ESCs are seen as such a good idea. Is this the one? http://www.rcplanet.com/AquaCraft_ESC_Forward_Reverse_AquaCraft_p/aqum7037.htm If so, it is unfortunate that the information given is so lacking. No mention anywhere of power handling, other than the sellers opinion that it is suitable for a particular model. The eventual answer is now to find out how much current your motors take under load and find a seller (preferably in the UK, since thats your whereabouts) and figure ESCs that will handle your load. ACTion and Mtronics spring to mind. A late afterthought. The vast majority of electric motors are just as efficient turning one way as the other, but some, intended for higher performance, have the brushgear timing tweaked to optimise performance in just one direction. Hopefully yours are not this type.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 11:41 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189447

RE: ESC reverse speed?
Some ESCs have reduced power in reverse. I usually look for this in the spec when I am buying, and avoid them, going for those intended for scale marine use. Some props are designed to give best "bite" forward at the cost of poor performance in reverse. Some hull designs give different performance between forward and reverse due to waterflow around the hull, but the usual problem perceived in that case is that reverse performance is better.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 2:18 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189059

RE: Max Volts for Brushed motors
[quote]The previous owner said I could double up a 7.2 nicad pack to put out 14v using the micro switch, true?????[/quote] True. But keep in mind what Apismelfera said about cooking the motor. The increased current might also cook the microswitch rapidly, as well.
Posted on: 8/3/2012 11:42 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179795

RE: Help with a Paddle boat rc gear.
[quote]Is it right that I cant plug another Bec in unless I cut the power wire ?[/quote] No need to cut - just winkle the terminal out of the plastic body and tape it back in a tidy manner with insulating tape. Should you need to later, it can easily be replaced. Modern BECs might not need the precaution, but doing the job can prevent problems.
Posted on: 7/29/2012 3:16 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11173039

RE: Help with a Paddle boat rc gear.
[quote]I have 1x FS 6c Tx with matching 6c Rx`s. 3x BEC`s, 2x 4500 LiPo batts.[/quote] Lipos only if you really really need to keep the weight down. 3xBEC. ??? 1 ESC per motor (2) if you need independent control. If they both have a BEC fitted, disable one by disconnecting the centre (usually red) wire of one. 1 servo for the rudder. Stick with brushed motors for a simple life, probably something big and slow running with a lot of poles and gear them down using a pulley drive for quietness, a gearbox if you don't mind the noise, maybe a worm drive if you can find the parts.
Posted on: 7/28/2012 2:41 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171998

RE: HELP! Can't find M-3 36mm plastic props!
[quote]Let me put this out there; I mistakenly purchased several bags (5 each of left & right props) that are bored to fit a M4 shaft. All I need to do is convert my drive shaft from an m3 thread to an m4 thread. Is there such a thing as an m3 to an m4 adapter/converter? The m3 shaft Home page of the leading discount RC screw distributor for model builders. screws in to one end of the adapter and the other end of the adapter has m4 threads ready to receive an m4 prop?[/quote] An adapter like that would trail the prop further back than intended - it might also introduce unbalance problems due to eccentricity. Props need to be locked to their shaft, in the case of threaded shafts this means a locknut. This would need to be accounted for on the length of M4 threaded part of the adapter. It might be simpler to replace the existing shafts with M4 ones, but the cost and effort might be more than the boat is worth against a fresh start.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 2:41 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166982

RE: Scale boats
A quick google for " southampton tug model " should find links for an RTS that is better than the toy ones as supplied, and very capable of being added to and improved.
Posted on: 7/23/2012 2:55 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165417

RE: HELP! Can't find M-3 36mm plastic props!
Just spotted this link on another thread on here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-blade-nylon-propeller-prop-set-27-30-32-35mm-p1-4-for-electric-nitro-rc-boat-/140667772524?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c073de6c&clk_rvr_id=367016072943 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11128994/mpage_2/tm.htm
Posted on: 7/22/2012 9:54 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164500

RE: HELP! Can't find M-3 36mm plastic props!
M3 is a thread size I've never come across for either shaft or prop. M4, yes, and M2 from some specialists who do gear for miniaturists. Even then, 3mm seems a bit small for a 36mm prop, since 2 blades implies relatively high speed and thus power. What's the boat?
Posted on: 7/20/2012 1:19 PM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162732

RE: Dual Barge Platform Style Boat
I would go brushed, like you seem to be going, I would think about the prop and motor before the ESC, but would probably be looking at either 385 motors or 5 pole speed 400s (same thing, really) running on whatever their rated voltage is or a bit less driving 35mm or thereabouts props. ESCs - the cheapest might be expensive when replaced with working ones. I am not familiar with those particular ESCs, but similar sounding ones have a reputation for poor low speed control. I am familiar with mtronics Viper 15s, which will handle the power no problem, do have excellent low speed control, and price might be comparable where you are. If the electric bits are in a waterproof box, they dont need to be waterproof themselves, and I have seen waterproof ESCs with internal components visible through the hole in the side, leaving me wondering what water is like where they come from, so mounting stuff in a snap top plastic box is good (cant say tupperware, copyright) Whichever, dont cut the red, winkle the receptacle out of the housing and tape it back in a tidy manner. That way, you can replace it should the need arise. If the ESC doesn't have BEC, the RX will need either its own battery (usually 4 of AA cells in a holder, often supplied as part of the radio outfit) or a separate BEC to work off the main battery.
Posted on: 7/18/2012 2:48 PM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11160315

RE: Dual Barge Platform Style Boat
Sounds like the simplest way to go. If the ESCs are BEC equipped, its conventional to disconnect the red lead from the RX plug of one of them, so the 2 BECs don't start arguing.
Posted on: 7/18/2012 9:41 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159948

RE: Rudder Selection
A man in a hurry could always make his own. Amazing what can be done with a hacksaw and a file.
Posted on: 7/17/2012 2:18 PM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158973

RE: Rescue Boat
[quote]ORIGINAL: Jackal1983 Thankyou guys. I'll do a search later and see what comes up. Mfr02 do you sail at fleetwood to??? [/quote] Very occasionally - my club (B&FMBC) sails at Fairhaven, Lytham St Annes, Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday evenings from the St Pauls Ave car park end. Mostly electric scale, but bits of everything except I/C, and we have recently gained a bunch of Laser
Posted on: 7/16/2012 3:00 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156960

RE: Rescue Boat
If its just a rescue boat, long run times are not a high priority - it only needs to be switched on and running while the rescue is being performed. The simplest form of rescue is to use the boat to tow a line out, circle the cripple to snag it with the line, and manually pull the lot back in. The kit mentioned previously is a good candidate, so is a Springer. Doing a search for rescue boats should bring up lots of ideas - it is a subject that generates lots of queries and threads.
Posted on: 7/15/2012 3:00 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155752

RE: reostat type speed controller help
[quote]ORIGINAL: diy-pro What do you mean the viper marine esc makes the motor squeal like a pig? [/quote] All modern ESCs work by switching the current on and of very rapidly to control the amount of energy put into the motor over any given period of time. The early ones were tied to the frame rate of the transmitter, about 50Hz, and growled a bit at low speed. The present day ones are computer controlled, and run at a higher frequency, so at low speed the motor can respond to this. Some motors are more susceptible than others. Most of us damp the sound by using a resilient mount, rather that doing our best to transmit the sound into the hull structure, which amplifies it. Some more modern ones can vary their frequency, with advances in technology, some can run at a high enough frequency that humans can't hear it.
Posted on: 7/11/2012 2:29 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151025

RE: replacement for 540 motor???
Yes, it's brushed. Big giveaway on the ad page is where it says "brushless class motors" in the navigation area. Brushless usually quote a "KV" number, shout "Brushless", and say things like "sensorless" or "sensored", and probably "inrunner" or "outrunner" The Graupner motor is probably overkill, there are lower priced alternatives, such as this - http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mfa-re540_1.html Since my search engine turns up UK mainly, you might want to do your own search, but the numbers in the spec on the link will be in the area that you are probably looking for. Beware of the over-excitable vendors who think everybody needs a souped up motor. These invariably need a hotter ESC, and quite possibly the hull would not handle the extra power. Incidentally, what type of boat is it? What kind of prop? While the standard spec motor will probably be just fine, knowing what might be expected from it helps cut the guesswork.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 2:32 PM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140272

RE: Potential newbie... few questions
Assume that hooking the boat out using one end will shorten the boats life. If the forces passed to the prop/rudder do not cause damage, lifting one end will dunk the other end underwater - if the snag is not as good as you thought, it could also unhitch itself. This, by Murphy's law, will always happen at the point of the lift when the most possible damage will result. Think "bounce off hard surface, knock hole in boat, fall into water, sink". Lifting straps normally go one from each end, which is why I suggested a curved blade or fork arrangement for the relatively small size you are considering so that the boat can be scooped out level. A properly designed boat will run straight, any direction trimming will happen via the rudder. The RTR boats will have a rigid shaft with the prop position very firmly set, adjustment generally happens on the bigger ones with a lot of home building involved. Check out the fast/racing forums and look for strudders, flex shafts and trim tabs.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 3:17 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11139519

RE: Potential newbie... few questions
A large collection of AA cells probably means it is a properly engineered device that transmits at the legal limit for power. That, in turn, implies that the boat end of things has also been properly designed, rather than the low sensitivity, poor selectivity broad-banded devices that appear in RTRs. If you find one running 2.4GHz, you should have no range problems, but still, a good guide to what you might be getting is to look at the price of a basic radio outfit - if a boat, complete, cost less than that, costs have been cut somewhere. Barring a total disaster, the only parts liable to damage are the prop and rudder. I have limped to shore with a 1 1/2 blade prop, and a bent rudder as a result whacking of unseen stuff just under the surface. If something causes a buggy to stop, you can usually go to it and fix it. If a plane "stops", it comes down, and you can go get it. If a boat stops, it's down to luck, wind and current where it ends up, so reliability and range are both important. Posts #8 & #9 seem to be more on your wavelength, and are offering sound advice based on their experience.
Posted on: 7/1/2012 4:54 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11138373

RE: Potential newbie... few questions
If the TX and RX are hobby grade rather than toy grade, range will not be a problem. I have controlled a yacht 400 yards away (about half way down "my" lake) using a 27MHz AM set, and at that range I had trouble guessing which way it was pointing, and that was a 1 metre long boat carrying its tallest rig. For all practical concerns, the concept of control comes to an end when you can't see which way you are pointing the boat. Low priced items are more likely to have "toy" radios and integrated electronics. Integrated usually means "to keep the price down". If the radio supplied uses a PP3 size battery, there is little chance that it will have any worthwhile range. Certainly some toy manufacturers think of 100 feet being an achievement, reading the boxes.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 9:06 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137639

RE: how to use a servo for a power plant ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: diy-pro A servo as a power plant? What are you building something for speed or a cruiser? If its speed your looking for and dont have an esc handy use that servo to flip a power switch on a relay to a larger motor. just a thought. Just found this and i will attempt to make one once i get over to radio shack... http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/electronic-speed-controller-photos.html [/quote] I would take the first line of the OP as a good clue - [quote]hi I am looking at converting some small plastic kits to RC[/quote] Small plastic kits normally implies scale models, the power from a servo suggests that high speed is not the intention. Back in the day when ESCs were expensive items I used a servo board to drive an opto isolator which in turn drove two pairs of Darlington power transistors, simple, relatively cheap, and you got reverse as well, unlike the flight idea. It didn't rely on copious air cooling to survive, either. Modern ESCs are smaller, handle more power, and only cost pennies more than the parts, so I use them now.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 4:01 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137429

RE: Potential newbie... few questions
All the reports I have read about the boats you mention agree with your thoughts, so yes. The launch/retrieval device need not be over-engineered with small boats like that, maybe a U shaped plate on the end of a telescopable stick? Telescopable so that you can reach down and lift up easily, but have the thing so that you can collapse it easily for transport. Either sections sliding into each other or convenient lengths that have a line through them like a collapsible walking stick. As to using one for retrieving a broken one , I have long favoured the line method, running out, circling the stuck one and pulling the pair back manually. If the stuck one is stuck because of weed, for instance, the rescue boat can get stuck just as easily. With a line you can pull either the rescue boat back, or the pair, and quite possibly the offending weed as well.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 3:40 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137424

RE: Potential newbie... few questions
The speed of a cruiser or tug depends to a large extent on its power. An ocean going tug/rig service vessel is generally designed with more power than it needs to move itself and the ability to handle rough water. It will not scuttle across the water and will not satisfy the need for an adrenaline rush, but there will be a good chance of getting it back. For launches/cruisers, the older designs such as the Sea Queen which were intended for I/C can be built a little lighter and give entertaining performance on electric power. You could also have a look at http://modelboats.hobby-site.com/ These were kits from the '50's, intended for straight running. The kit plans, which translate to cutout outlines for sheet wood, can be enlarged, and even at original size can be good candidates for RC. With landing loops/straps, a bigger boat, within the limits that you can lift, is better with a big drop. Easier to get in the right place. If looking at a yacht, remember that you need to know the water depth, including any underwater obstructions. If planning to use my "heave it up with the mast " technique, pick one with rigging. e.g. The mast on a Laser is held by gravity and the stiffness of the carbon fibre - picking it up by the mast merely unplugs the mast. Also bear in mind that I took up model boats as a way to unwind from stress, not as a way to artificially increase it, so I have my own bias to my preferences, but its a big hobby, with room for all. A late afterthought - http://www.amazon.com/RC-HT-2879-Destroyer-War-Ship/dp/B002G4TN5Q Although marketed as a toy, is is a passable scale model of a Soviet era destroyer, mostly just needing a new coat of paint. Can't think what your neighbours would make of you running a unit of the navy of the USSR.........
Posted on: 6/29/2012 11:12 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136687

RE: Potential newbie... few questions
Consider a calmer type of boat like a cruiser, fishing boat, tug etc. Inversion solved in one go. There have been various suggestions for launching. retrieval devices on the various sites. These range from a pair of straps, which, with you drop to the water and scooter limitation would probably not work, through a frame arrangement with a pair of big hooks to go under the hull, to, at the top end, a motorized version ( sail the boat on, press "lift"). To get something decent in your cost range, its probably a self build from a plan. A yacht has its virtues. I can launch and retrieve my Victoria using the mast, which is a good thing as getting down to reach a boat on my water is easy - getting back up again less so, but interesting for onlookers.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 4:28 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11134881

RE: reostat type speed controller help
Best bet is to fit a fuse and try it in water so its under load. Auto type blade fuses are available at low cost in little boxes with a variety of values - either start with a high value and work down until one blows, or start low and work up. The lowest value that survives is the one to go for. Pick the next rating up for the ESC, that way the motor will have the right ESC, and the ESC will be protected by the fuse. Or just measure the loaded current with a meter, not always easy reading a meter and holding the boat still. The loading will depend on the motor itself, condition of the motor, condition of the drive train, prop diameter, blade count and pitch, so a definitive answer is not really possible, but you are likely to wind up with either a Viper 15 or 25. I have run a Graupner Lotse with a speed 400 on 7 cells (its rated voltage) on a Viper 15, no problems, apart from looking a bit silly for a pilot launch with a mast and crane when the front 2/3rds was out of the water.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 2:38 PM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132854

RE: reostat type speed controller help
Just look up mtronics viper, you should be able to find someone selling them not too far away. Or you could risk a fleabay one of unknown quality control and possibly over optimistic performance rating. Just look for a marine one without the frills that car controllers have (you don't need brakes) but that does have a proper reverse since that is your brakes.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 5:34 AM by Author "mfr02" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132171