RE: Simple Saber Control line trainer plan
No hard feelings at all I never had the kit and I didn't realize the plane had been published in a magazine - I wonder if the kit was developed because of the magazine article .. Johnny Carr has been pretty inactive for the last 18 months or so - I think that retirement and moving to a new house have kept him more than occupied. But I will not be surprised if he starts to show up again. If he does, I will be sure and ask him about the history of this model. I imagine that any changes from one version to the other were to accomodate the smaller amount of real estate available as a magazine center fold as opposed to the full 16 x 24 plan in the kit.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 12:39 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208291

RE: Simple Saber Control line trainer plan
I would be interested in seeing a scan of the 'Simple' if you have the capability.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 1:24 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206158

RE: Simple Saber Control line trainer plan
Here is a scan (had to do it in four parts and 'paste' them together) - This is a jpg and I don't know if I can make it a pdf - it might be too big for my 'doc2pdf' converter. In fact, if you want a better copy, just PM me your mailing address and I'll mail you one- I found an extra. Since this was a kit plan, there are no dimensions listed on it so I put a 5 inch scale up by the title box. and RCU will probably not store it full size, since it is at 75 dpi right now (1760 x 1188). I'll email you the full size version at the address above. There is a little distortion, but really, it came out pretty good. I don't know if you are familiar with CMI - Carr Models, Inc. (I think). The "Carr" in CMI is Johnny Carr, who designed the Guillotine for Combat and kitted that and several 1/2A's of similar construction to this one. Johnny is a member of our club and up until last year was still flying a little and has some really nice flying 1/2A combat planes of more modern design.
Posted on: 10/26/2009 9:21 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9204444

RE: Simple Saber Control line trainer plan
I've got a set - I will dig it up and see what I can do with it. I might even have extras. (Can you handle printing of .dxf or .dwg files?). That IS the CMI kit of the '70's that you are talking about, right?
Posted on: 10/26/2009 9:17 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202774

RE: How do you set this tank up??
My guess is you FILL thru the vent - the right-most (in front view) is OVERFLOW - so fill until overflow runs then cap the overflow.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 4:16 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173194

RE: Fuel proofing?
If you are covering open bay, rib framework and just looking for something fuel-proof to put on the bare wood, then Polyurethane varnish - such as Minwax, is fuel proof up to at least 40% nitro. Just brush it on or buy the spray cans and spray it - it comes in gloss and satin (semi-flat). For a slab-wing, like a 1/2A Skyray, you can do the whole thing in varnish or spray with an enamel like Rustoleum, then use a coat of the varnish over the top. Rustoleum is 'kinda' fuel proof, but not 100%, and also it is heavy so go easy with it. Between the Rustoleum and the Lustrekote, they are pretty much the same as far as using the rattle-cans, though the Rustoleum will be a little cheaper and comes in more colors. I have been tinting the varnish with artist's oil paint (comes in a tube, from art supply stores or craft stores). It gives a finish that is kind of 'candy apple' or transparent color. It goes well with a transparent film covering. You could even mix to get different shades. I have also used Rustoleum from the small cans meant for brushing to tint the varnish. Here is a picture of transparent blue monokote on the wings and a tinted Polyurethane varnish fuselage.
Posted on: 10/7/2009 12:04 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153875

RE: Help on building an Electric Ringmaster Jr
Just measured one of the planes - Span - 32" Root - ~ 9" Tip - ~ 7" Length - 23" Weight - 22.5 oz. (Ready to fly, with battery installed) I'm guessing that these are a little larger than a RM - Jr, though the power package would be fine on either.
Posted on: 9/24/2009 8:04 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9121459

RE: Help on building an Electric Ringmaster Jr
Kv doesn't have anything to do with physical size of the motor - that is why I also look at the weight of the motor. Kv has to do with the magnet strength and the actual windings. The original motor you posted weighed about 50 g. and had a Kv of 2200 - that is the exact same motor that I use on my 1/2a size stunter, which is about 30" span and weighs about 13 oz. ready to fly. It turns a 6-4 prop at about 12000 RPM on TWO cells instead of the 3-cell batteries I mentioned above. It draws about 12 amps. The latest that you posted is the same diameter and a little longer - I am guessing that it would weigh about 65 grams but that very high (3650) Kv - means that it is likely wound to use in a helicopter, where they typically have a gear driven rotor. In our direct-drive c/l planes, even a little 5-2 or 5-3 prop would be drawing 40 or more amps and the ESC shown (a 30 Amp rated one) would burn up unless the motor burned up first! The motor that I listed first - weighs about 80 g. and has a Kv of 1500 - turns an 8-4 at 11000 as stated, drawing about 20 amps. The planes weigh about 24 oz. RTF, and about 250 sq. (ie: about .15-19 size). I also mentioned a sister to that motor that has a Kv of 1200, but the motor still weighs about 80 g. It would fly the same plane but the 8-4 would turn less than 11000 (on the same battery) - you would need to move up to an 8-6 or 9-3 or 9-4 - It would turn any of those about 10000, probably but the power out would be about the same. Then I mentioned a 2814-6 with a weight of 100 g. and a Kv of 1400 - turning 9-4's to 9-6's at about 30 amp. Note - the weights are going up, the Kv's are different but not related to weight. The CURRENT draws are also going up because the power handling capabilities of the motor (due to it's increased weight) also goes up. (All of the above setups mentioned 3 cell batteries - just like in a flashlight, the batteries add up in voltage so 1 cell is about 3.5 volts, 2 cells ~ 7.0 volts, 3 cells ~ 10.5 volts, etc.). Power is voltage multiplied by current. Voltage is about 10.5, current in my TnT is about 20 Amps so power is ~210 Watts. Current in the 2814-6 is about 30 Amp - so power is about 300-315 Watts. The "Rule of Thumb" is for aerobatic performance, you want about 125-150 Watts per pound of Plane Weight. My 24 oz (1.5 lb.) models would be pretty aerobatic at 175-225 Watts. They will fly around in trainer mode at say 125 Watts but not be capable of much in the way of aerobatics. And your original motor question is flying on 2 cells (7 volts) at about 12 amps, so 85 watts. It is less than a pound - call it .75 lb. so we would (ideally) be at about 90 watts (125 W. per pound). Oh, and one final question for you - You DID mean the Ringmaster JUNIOR, didn't you? The .15-19 size plane? If you meant the Baby or 1/2A size, then your original motor would work pretty well.
Posted on: 9/24/2009 5:21 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9121071

RE: Help on building an Electric Ringmaster Jr
That motor has WAY too high a Kv - without going in to a huge post on permanent magnet motor theory, I will just say that for the model we have been discussing, you want to look for a motor that has a Kv of 1200-1500. The motor that I described is 1500, but you can get it in other - lower - Kv's. One of our club members bought the same motor but the 2217-7 model which has a Kv of 1200 - his motor will need a somewhat larger prop to get the same amount of power, but will draw slightly less current. <By the way, I would personally stay away from the Hong Kong dropshippers that advertise heavily on Ebay - they don't know what they are selling and can't support it. I have bought (accidentally won, really) a LiPo battery from the very 'store' you pointed to. The battery was TOTALLY worthless - described as a 20C, 4000 mah battery it would run a motor with a very small prop for about 30 seconds at an unflyably low RPM, then the voltage would sag to almost zero and it would be uncomfortably hot. The shipping to return it would be about what I paid for it, so it is basically a paper weight. Even throwing it away is more effort than it is worth, so it sits on a book shelf in my shop.> If you MUST use a Hong Kong supplier, HobbyCity/HobbyKing is good, but the shipping costs are high enough that much of the savings disappear. Our local hobby shop is now a HobbyKing dealer, and has many of the items that they supply right here in town. His prices are reasonable and I buy what I can from him. I have dealt with both LightflightRC and BP Hobbies and I can recommend them. They don't always have the items in stock, but neither does Hobby King. When choosing or evaluating a motor, I look at the weight of the motor and the Kv. The weight is mostly the metal and the copper windings, so it gives you a general idea of the amount of power the motor can handle. The Kv will give you an idea of the prop and batteries that will perform in the range you want it to. The 2217-xx motors weigh 80 grams and as I said, a Kv of 1500 will turn an 8-4 at about 11000 RPM, drawing about 20 amps. On the 1500 mah batteries I mentioned, this will get you about 4 minutes of useable flying time. I have another model with 'the next larger' size motor - a 2814-6. This motor has a Kv of about 1400 and weighs about 100 grams. This motor will turn a 9-6 at over 12000 RPM, drawing about 30 amps. On the 1500 mah batteries, this would only equate to roughly 3 minutes of flying time, so I run it on 2200 mah batteries (about 30% 'more fuel'). This then gets me back over 4 minutes of flying time. Again - the weight of the motor is 30-40 percent more than the 2217, so it will handle 30-40 percent more power. There really isn't any magic or secret formula's - once you have flown something, you will have a much better idea of what results come from the various things you can change. Frankly, these motors/esc's are VERY easy to adapt to changes. If you want to run a larger prop on the same battery, you will get less RPM but more power (up to a point). If you can't quite get it to pull through a wingover, go to a slightly larger prop (yes, larger! - or more pitch) and you will really feel the difference. If your speed is slightly too high for a comfortable stunt pattern, you can dial it down by way of the power setting from the timer. In fact, when you really get into it, you will want to fly at less than full-power, so that your timer or ESC can adjust for a sagging battery voltage as the flight progresses. The best forum on electric C/L, IMHO, is at Stunthanger.com. You will need to register using your real name, but don't let that scare you away - no spambots or virus carriers will find you because of that. Then you can read the electric forum where people have listed very detailed descriptions of just what equipment they use on various planes. Very interesting threads on everything from airframe to propellers. An education in itself. The TnT-3's that I posted are about 32" span and maybe 250 sq. in. I can measure them when I get home from work tonight. I was originally building them for glow .15-.19 's, but got into this electric stuff and decided that they would make better trainers for the boys as electrics - for various reasons, they were very successful. Those are 8" props in the pix, if it helps you to visualize their size. They are foam wings with external bellcranks. Originally were to be tricycle gear, but came out a little too tail-heavy so I swung the mains around and mounted them on the front - instant tail-dragger that balanced correctly. I suppose I better get back to work ....
Posted on: 9/24/2009 3:56 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9120907

RE: Help on building an Electric Ringmaster Jr
Scrounged up a picture of the models I described above - As stated, the wingspan is about 32" - the motor/battery/timer (s) are visible in the pictures. The ESC's are hidden in the wings. By the way, the motors will turn an 8-4 prop at over 11000 RPM on 3 cell batteries so the power is adequate!
Posted on: 9/22/2009 2:50 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9115585

RE: Help on building an Electric Ringmaster Jr
[quote]ORIGINAL: jayseas I am totally blind when it comes to electrical stuff, so i need some advice.I would like to build a electric C/L Ringmaster Jr. But have no idea on what size motor to use.I don't want to spend alot so so try and keep this in mind when giving your advice.I want the plane to fly at a good clip not real slow, want it fly fast enough to do the stunts.Any and all advice welcome.Would something like this work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170385038759&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNA%3AMOTORS%3A1123 [/quote] The motor you referenced is similar to what you need, but too small to fly the model you want to get going. OK - here is the 'e-stuff' I used to get my Grandson's going - the model was an own-design, roughly the same size as RM-Jr. Motor - Suppo 2217-6 (A brushless, "outrunner" motor) ESC - Suppo 30 Amp. (The ElectronicSpeedControl - you need this even if you only want to run at one speed) Battery - 3s1p, 1500 mah LiPo (lithium polymer battery, 3 cells of 1500 mah and at least 15C) Timer - Will Hubin timer Assuming you don't know what all that is or where to get it here are two suppliers that have this stuff at reasonable prices: www.lightflightrc.com www.bphobbies.com Email Will Hubin at: whubin@kent.edu They have the specified motor (though BP Hobbies calls it a BP 2217-6) and the speed controls (Again, BP or Suppo brand - same speed control). The motors are about $20, the ESC's are also about $20. Both places will also have the batteries - you will want two or three as you cannot 'fast charge' these cells like Nicads. They are available cheaper from some Hong Kong based shippers but you will need to know what you want and how to order it - you will also need a Paypal account for just about all of the above (or a credit card). I can't tell you how much these will cost but roughly $20 each, delivered is a ballpark figure. The "Timer" is the device that lets us fly these systems control-line and not need an RC receiver/transmitter - in it's most basic form, it turns the motor on for a specified amount of time and then turns it off again. The time is adjustable generally from about 1 minute up to about 7 minutes. Most have some other features and Will Hubin can actually custom program a unit to do exactly what you want it to do. It costs about $20 delivered also. There are other brands but the Hubin Timers use a small screwdriver to set the various parameters, while the others you have to get into "Programming" mode and learn how to set the program to do what you want. The above system will allow about a 4 minute flight per battery (charge) or as I did to get the boys trained, a couple of shorter flights per battery. There is higher end stuff available, but this is about the minimum as far as expense and performance goes to fly that size plane. The batteries are the real heart of the system and they are getting better and less expensive. In addition to the above, you will need a "Balancing Charger" for LiPo batteries and some kind of power supply to run it off of - again, you will find it easier to charge batteries at home and take them to the field - fly them - and bring them home to recharge. We have done some field charging, but it is more hassle than it is worth. The chargers are available (for smaller batteries like these) for about $25-$40 but be sure that it is a "Balancing" charger or that you get a separate "Balancer" - this is necessary to protect the batteries. The power supply for the charger should also be available from the same place you get the charger - I know that LightFlight RC and BP both have the chargers and power supplies and usually some kind of package deal. I realize that the above represents a fairly hefty initial outlay (Somewhere around $150 probably) but once you have the above in hand, you won't need to buy fuel or glow plugs and you will have the power to do basic maneuvers on 52-55 foot lines. Hope this helps - Feel free to ask any follow-up questions
Posted on: 9/22/2009 2:30 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9115540

RE: F3A? Not anymore! (conversion photos)
Very nice - and good luck with your first flights .... a word of warning - RC planes are generally balanced much more tail-heavy than control-line planes. Just a quick look and I would guess that you will want to balance at least a couple of cm ahead of where your leadout guide is right now. If you don't have much experience, then even more nose-heavy than that won't hurt. Let us know how it works out.
Posted on: 9/1/2009 8:20 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062767

RE: Testors and cox .049 glow heads
[quote]ORIGINAL: build light Mike, you are right on target with all your advice. Robert [/quote] [sm=wink_smile.gif] One of the few advantages of getting old - you learn things (eventually) and if you are lucky, you can pass the info along. Scott - if you are at all serious about trying to fly some 1/2A - spend your money on Cox engines and either keep the Testors/McCoy in a collection or sell them to a collector. Yes, some of them MAY run Ok, but they will cause you more headaches than they are worth. The Cox's can be had for about the same money as you will spend on JUST THE GLOWHEAD of the Testor's and will be much less of a headache. If you just GOTTA fly the Testors, then get a Cox anyway and set up the plane around it - you can then switch to the Testors and maybe save a few runs on those glow heads. Oh, and join this group: groups.yahoo.com/group/049collectors That is where the real knowledge resides on .049's.
Posted on: 8/27/2009 10:20 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9049142

RE: Testors and cox .049 glow heads
No - they have a different thread. You can still get Cox heads but Testor's heads have not been made in some time. You can only hope to find them used/ebay'd/ or offered on used engines. I think that Mecoa might have a conversion head that allows you to put a standard glow plug on one, but unfortunately the (already anemic) performance will degrade even more if you use one.
Posted on: 8/26/2009 6:36 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047564

RE: O.S. Pet .099
[quote]ORIGINAL: 509boatman55 .............. And still can anyone tell me if Rustoleum is fuelproof?? [/quote] I have used Rustoleum and I find that it is NOT 100% fuel proof - when you wipe fuel and oil off it, you get some tinting of the wiping rag. If you use a post-flight cleaner, it seems to make it a little worse. You can finish it with a coat of polyurethane varnish (I use Minwax in either gloss or satin finish) and then it is quite fuel proof. The Minwax water-based varnish is NOT fuel proof, at all. The other problem that I have had with Rustoleum is that if you don't use a good primer underneath, it has a tendency to peel away in large areas. I have had most of these problems when I used a talc/dope filler coat. I think the dope is just too slick for the Rustoleum to grab. (Mostly this takes place around the nose area, which suggests to me that heat and hot oil make it worse). If you use a grey or red primer paint first, it seems to provide enough tooth for the Rustoleum to stick to better. Be aware also, that the Minwax will give an amber cast especially over a very white coat of any kind of color paint - it isn't really noticeable on anything except white. I know that others have claimed good results with Rustoleum and I don't dispute their findings - just giving you my experience with it. I still use it and like it better than the 'Monokote Matching' rattle-cans found in the hobby shop.
Posted on: 8/21/2009 3:29 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9033972

RE: 1/2A Brodak Pathfinder question
[quote]ORIGINAL: iflyg450 ...... and I was wondering if more spaceing between the leadout changes anything. .... .....How long should the leadout extend past the wing tip? ...... -Jason [/quote] Spacing of the leadouts doesn't really have much effect - where they are located wrt the CG is more important The leadouts should be long enough that full control doesn't try to pull a line clip through the wingtip - in other words, if you pull a leadout to full control one way, then pull the other to full control, neither one should "Bottom Out" on the leadout guide or the wingtip.
Posted on: 8/5/2009 12:31 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8992145

RE: c/l 1/2A combat?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jayseas What lenght lines do you fly the Li'l Hacker on? [/quote] It will fly on 42' (for competition) if you have enough engine - a really hot Norvel or a VA or better. I would start on 35' if just sport flying and then if you feel like it's too fast or just want to try the longer ones you can move out to 42'.
Posted on: 7/29/2009 4:37 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8974253

RE: Flew a electric control line
Electrics and glows both have their place, as far as I'm concerned. We have at least half a dozen guys flying electrics on everything from 1/2A size (we call it 1/2e) up to '.46' size planes. I have an electric powered Navy Carrier plane that pulls over 75 amps during high speed flight and throttles down to where I can do 35 - 40 second laps. But I still like to "turn Nitro into noise" out at the field too. I was mainly commenting on your finding that the electric has sparked an interest in some people who weren't interested in the glow powered stuff - and that we had similar findings. Fishing line - use of Spectra line (a fused multi-filament line) has been done for 1/2A and tested for the larger planes. It is NOT legal for any AMA contest events, but for sport flying you can use it. (Be sure to read and follow the AMA Safety Code for Control Line if you are AMA and expect the insurance coverage!). For 1/2A I have used Berkely Fireline, 20 lb. test. It is NOT cheaper than steel lines, but it flies as well as steel and is a LOT better than the dacron "1/2A" line that comes with 1/2A handles. For the 25 size, I don't have any reason to mess around with fishing line - I buy stranded wire in bulk spools of 1000 ft. in .012, .015, and .018 diameter, so don't really need to switch over. Be advised that the act of tying a knot has been known to reduce the strength of the lines by over 1/2. The kite flyers have lots of experience with Spectra and they recommend a 'sheathing' covering where there are knots, but I don't know what they use to sheath it with. I have seen a couple of threads on this that recommend a "Palomar" knot, and if you google it, you'll find a lot of places that have instructions on how to tie a Palomar knot. I have had a set of Spiderwire Spectra that failed in flight when the plane (a 1/2A combat) got a little loose on the lines and then hit the end again, very hard. Yes, it broke at the knot, and yes it was a Palomar knot. So, word to the wise ......
Posted on: 7/29/2009 4:20 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8974221

RE: Flew a electric control line
We have found that the electrics are MUCH less intimidating for a newbie or a possible RC convert than a glow engine - even if the glow is only a 1/2A. (By the way, a TD powered Clown on 25 foot lines would screw ME into the ground!). You can set the electric for a very short flight and the pilot doesn't have time to get too dizzy or to have turbulence get things too out of shape. Plus, you can get a bunch of flights out of a single charge (come to think of it, that is how I learned to fly RC way back when - with an electric powered sailplane that I just launched and landed as many times as the battery would let me before it needed to be charged). If the trainee is a true Newbie, he (or his parents) doesn't have to learn how to operate a glow engine, which is a whole separate learning curve from just learning to fly. Congrats on your success -
Posted on: 7/29/2009 10:45 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8973450

RE: c/l 1/2A combat?
[quote]ORIGINAL: mathison205 the lil hackers fly great. i also have a gladator from brodak it is a lot tail heavy with a norvel .049 and i have yet to fix the balance to see if i can fly the thing. [/quote] All the Russian ARF's are tail heavy with anything lighter than a Cyclon. They don't come with motor mounts, and the ones that you can get are too short anyway so we end up making our own that put a Norvel or VA 1 1/2 to 2 inches in front of the LE.
Posted on: 7/29/2009 2:42 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8972823

RE: c/l 1/2A combat?
KIT has not had kits or engines for quite some time The Viko's or similar are available from Tom Siegler, though I don't know if there is a minimum order from him or not. Brodak has a similar model that also comes as an ARF called the Gladiator: http://www.brodak.com/shop_productdetail.php?ProductID=8644 Don't know about plans for any of them. If you just want a good flying 1/2A combat wing for a TD or Norvel, check into a CoreHouse L'il Hacker - all foam and you get a double kit.
Posted on: 7/28/2009 11:43 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8970638

RE: Where can I find a Lil Snip...
A similar thread recently on RCGroups - to ask about plans: You might try contacting the designer. Rich "Von" Lopez writes the Combat column in Model Aviation every (???) months out of the year. His e-mail is: richvon7@hotmail.com according to the column heading.
Posted on: 7/17/2009 11:07 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8942629

RE: Wanted: Old PT 19
I would suggest that you join this Yahoo group as it is a group for those who collect and refurbish the old plastic RTF's. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/049Collectors You can also keep an eye on Ebay, as this kind of stuff often shows up there. You had better be prepared for some sticker shock as all of the manufacturers/plastic planes are very highly collectable and bring prices that might make you gulp. The engines can be had for fairly reasonable prices, often. Best of luck Mike A.
Posted on: 7/13/2009 10:14 AM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8928717

RE: Control Line in Kansas City
[quote]ORIGINAL: hammerf2d How did SIG go? How many entries? I really want to go but I have two young kids and a wife that does not allow me to run here and there all the time but my son will be flying next year so I will have an excuse.... [/quote] Sig went OK - I think that there were 8 or 9 in Speed Limit, only 2 in 1/2A. Weather was pretty windy both days, and held down the actual flying in all events. Half-A seems to be a pretty dead issue around the Midwest - we have not had any entrants at our two contests for the last couple of years nor has Sig. Lack of engines is one issue, but declining interest is more so. It's not just 1/2A, unfortunately. In fact, it's not just combat, unfortunately.
Posted on: 7/7/2009 1:11 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913564

RE: Control Line in Kansas City
The little 1/2a "F2D"s usually end up with really long motor mounts for us here - even with a Fora. With a AME or other lightweight, you will probably need to get the motor a good inch or so in front of the leading edge - sometimes more. Looks goofy but they fly well.
Posted on: 7/2/2009 1:10 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8900968

RE: Control Line in Kansas City
[quote]ORIGINAL: hammerf2d Send me some information on the Sig contest....how far is it from KC? Cary and were talking about it but don't have all the info. [/quote] I don't have anything to send but the contest is still going to be held - the dates are June 27-28 Montezuma, Iowa is about an hour past Des Moines just off Interstate 80 (I'm not sure ... 5 hours?). Speed limit and 1/2A combat, I think. Try going to www.sigmfg.com (there is a contest page if you click on the propeller at the top of the page).
Posted on: 6/17/2009 12:55 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8859411

RE: Control Line in Kansas City
>Bob the fun fly turned out great wish you could have made it!! The wind was up a bit but there were lots of people enjoying themselves >observing control line stunt, Battle Axe Kits from TreneffRC are the finest Combat kits available! combat, and many other mentionable flights. THANKS DUANE for getting it all together......look for KC to have >ome control line contests and clubs. Andy - Are you and/or your brother coming up to the Sig contest?
Posted on: 6/12/2009 9:46 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8847893

RE: Need a fuel tank for my new balsa airplane.
I don't know about finding any of the above, but you can measure the space available on the plans and then try to find something here: http://www.acmemodel.com/tanks.htm The old line of brass tanks from Acme is still available and I think that when I built my last Nobler (probably 35 years ago .....) I used an Acme tank in it. I also remember that a friend built a green box Nobler and put a Fox 'Profile' 3 1/2 ounce tank in it which worked OK. (Those are the tall, narrow type.) If you have to, you can probably figure a way to stuff a four ounce clunk tank in it ( round one should fit pretty easily - a slant type maybe if you stand it on it's side), and maybe even make it removable. And of course, various metal tanks are available from Brodak, RSM, StukaStunt and other 'garage industry' sources. Good luck, Mike A
Posted on: 4/22/2009 2:48 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8705575

RE: Control Line in Kansas City
To all those near KC or the Midwest in general - the Des Moines, Iowa club (Mid Iowa Control Liners) will host the 12th annual Spring Kickoff at our site in Big Creek State Park, just outside Polk City, Iowa. The dates are May 2,3 Stunt (Classic, Old Time, Profile and PAMPA classes) Combat (1/2A, Speed Limit, F4b) Carrier (1-2, Profile, .15, Sport Classes (Skyray, Nostalgia, Sportsman)) If you would like a flyer, I can email one. You can Paypal your entry fees, and get a discount over registration at the site! email me at: mikeainia<at>iowatelecom<dot>net for more info. Is there any more info on the KC funfly yet? Mike A
Posted on: 4/20/2009 6:22 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8699588

RE: Does anyone have this book?
It wasn't "Two Stroke Tuners Guide" by Gordon Jennings, was it? If so, look here: http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/
Posted on: 3/14/2009 9:35 PM by Author "mikeainia" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8578515