RE: Zippy Batteries
Yea, it is really puffy! Like a pregnancy that has gone 12 months! I will discharge it to 0 and discard in salt water. Out of curiosity, how salty should I make the water? How long of a sitting time in the water and then what...garbage can? Thank you for your insigts. Any ideas on a printed source (internet) that gives basics on LiPO battery information? Tim
Posted on: 8/28/2012 9:24 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209056

RE: Zippy Batteries
Thanks for the reply. It has been awhile since I used this charger for charging. I looked on the side of the charger and I realize I did not push the button to initiate charging 3 times for LiPO. By not making that selection, then the charger most likely thought it was charging a NiCD. Would that be the reason for 'pushing the curve' on what a LiPO can handle? Also, can I expect the 'puffiness" to ever reced? Should I use it at all? What about future charging? This is a new thing for me. Is there some type of primer that is available for folks like me that need a bit more info. on electrics?
Posted on: 8/27/2012 4:17 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208203

Zippy Batteries
I just got three Zippi 2350 mAh 3S batts. from Hobby King. Just charged one on my Hobbico charger (DC) and it is quite puffy. I charged one on my Trident without any problem. My guess the Hobbico field charger does not have a cut off installed. I checked the cell readings and they were in the 4.33 range for each of the 3 cells. With the Trident, the range was 4.13-4.15 range and pack looks normal. Is the field charger not a good option even though it claims to handle LiPO?
Posted on: 8/27/2012 12:00 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207896

RE: Nitroplanes
Thanks for the good advice, fellow flyers. I am 71....you would think I would know better. any experience with Banana Hobby or are they just another Nitro in different clothes??
Posted on: 8/17/2012 1:44 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197115

Nitroplanes
I notice that many items that Nitroplanes sells are usually out of stock. Need a few spare parts for the 1400mm P-40 I purchased not too long ago. I have had this problem with them before. Is it just me? Is there a secret way of getting spare parts that I am unaware of?? I would hesitat to buy from them again.;
Posted on: 8/14/2012 9:00 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193055

RE: Motor or ESC problem?
Thanks for the response, Chuck. Well, I did figure out the problem the other day. I noticed that the last plane I had using that model had never been executed back to zero. So my throttle channel was set somewhere around + - 55% for the nitro engine. I increased those settings to close to 100% and what do you know.....it worked fine. Have tried a couple different props along with the watt/amp meter and I am drawing about 30A and somewhere around 340 W using the E-Flite 480 and a 3S 2200 30C batt. So, i am keeping the amps down, even at a burst. Q: would the A and W change from a static ground test compared to actual flight?
Posted on: 5/4/2012 9:04 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068227

RE: Motor or ESC problem?
I recently purchased a Turnigy Trust 55A ESC from Hobby King along with a 2200mAh 3S battery as well. Installed them both in the E-Flight Leader 480 using an E Flight 480 motor. Followed all the directions, got good solder conntections from esc to Deans plug. Turned on Tx, plugged in CH 3 from ESC, plugged in Batt with Tx at low throttle. Should of heard either one or two beeps. Nada! I even switched motor leads, but that only changes direction of rotation. Still nothing. Re-tried...nada. So, I unplugged batt and set Tx to full (as if I was going into programming mode), still nothing. At this point, I think I got a bad ESC.....am I missing something? Tim
Posted on: 4/15/2012 4:23 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11043237

Profile Plans
I am interrested in building my own profile plane in the .46 range (around 48"w.s.). Have not been able to find any plans for any profile planes. Any help in connecting with a web page that details such plans would be appreciated. Not interrested in foam. Ony lite ply and balsa. Many thanks. Tim
Posted on: 3/17/2012 10:36 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Profile and Fun Flying Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11004088

Electric Retracts
Not sure if this is the correct thread base but a place to start. Curious if anyone has information re: electric retracts. I see that there seems to be a trend in this direction. For obvious reasons (although perhaps not the best) not having to deal with air tanks (thus a room situation...especially on smaller birds); fittings; re-filling air tank, etc electricts SEEM like a way to avoid a lot of problems. Even if one used a separate battery, perhaps they would be a good substitute. chime in please if you have opinions or experience. Tim
Posted on: 2/25/2012 12:06 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10975407

SwitchGloPro & programming mixes
I recently purchased a SwitchGlo Pro on-board glow igniter. At present I have this unit plugged into CH7 on the Rx. On the Tx, under Aux I assigned Switch H. When I flip switch H, the glow ignites and the buzzer sounds....as it should. However, I do not want the glow ignited via the battery continuously. They told me I need to do a throttle/aux mix. I went to screen #2 (Mixes) and under Program 1 I changed the functions to read Master: throttle Slave: Aux 1 (there are only two choices here Aux 1 and Aux 2). What I want to accomplish is this: idle throttle up to about 25% igniter should be on after 25% the igniter should be off, thus saving battery life. Well, I tried following what I thought was a logical sequence, but it did not work. I would appreciate any help in getting this mix working. The manual does not cover on-board glow functions. I know I am probably missing something simple. The guys at SwitchGlo claims this will work but were unfamiliar with the 9CAP. Help! Tim in Tacoma
Posted on: 2/2/2012 5:43 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10941014

RE: WarbirdColors Paint
Thanks again, guys. David, what was the brand at HD......last time I was there I believe I only saw the larger cans. Were you doing warbird colors? If so, do you recall what colors you used? Also....Chad, we have been in e-mail exchange a few times. I have your article: Paint Your Wagon. Very helpful in helping to understand the details of painting your AT-6 (Harvard as it is). I am looking forward to trying some of your weathering techniques. Thanks again, gents! Tim
Posted on: 1/15/2012 11:49 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10910101

RE: WarbirdColors Paint
thanks to all who chimed in. It went from soup to nuts. Seeing that I already have the WBC, is am going to use it. I will report back as to how successful the process went. I kind of agree that humidity may not be a factor.......after all the WBC is water base. I am a fan of tack coats for the most part. I was a bit suspicious about the "wet coat" final spray as well. I can just picture a nice run on the side of the fuse. My plan is to use some 0000 steel wool after the final spray to take down any rough spots and to help with "weathering". I have made up a sample panel to do as a first step just to make sure I can count on decent results. I will post here after I am done with some pics. Tim
Posted on: 1/15/2012 8:44 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10909819

WarbirdColors Paint
Hope this is the correct thread. I just received my Warbird Colors for a TF SpitMKIX that I am finishing. I live in WA state (cold,wet,high humidiy,etc). I was planning on warming up the wing and fuse to room temp. in my small man cave. Then do the painting in my garage (quite cold/damp) and then taking the fuse and wing back into the cave to cure out in 60-65 degrees. I was also planning on using a moisture collector in line with the touchup gun/airbrush. Please chime in if you think the plan of attack should work from a temp/humidity standpoint. The directions for WBC indicate a light tack coat thinned about 50-60%. Let dry and then another light coat, dry and a third "wet" coat. Would that third coat have a tendancy to run being wet? Any hints at techniques would be helpful. Tim
Posted on: 1/14/2012 3:00 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10908827

SwitchGlo on board glow system
Not sure if this is the correct category, however, seeing that many warbirds are powered (glow that is) by inverted engines....having an on-board glow driver would be helpful. Nothing like lining up for a landing and have a flame out! I have used C-tronics, Sullivan and they are usually o.k., however I want to try this newer devise called SwitchGlo Pro. Lot s of good testimonials on their page, but how about a few comments from the Brotherhood of RCU. Has anyone tried this product and if so, how do you rate it? They claim it can run off of your Rx batt. without a draw down for the rest of your electronic needs (Rx, servos,etc). Thanks for any help.
Posted on: 1/11/2012 3:43 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10904044

RE: TF Spitfire build
I have really enjoyed reading abut your thread on the Spitty. I have been working on my 1/7 TF Spit now for 8 months. Yea, I am slow. I have read much of what you guys have done and I have done some of the same and a few things different. I know I should not have been so lazy about shooting some shots during the build. However, I will get some shots of where I am at this point. Scott has been a great help with his vast knowledge of modeling. I agree, Scott....sometimes it is more enjoyable building than flying. Just knowing that you have months of work at the tips of your thumbs is very daunting! I used .75oz glass with poly mixed with a bit of microbaloons. Have used that formula for many planes....works great for me. I do recommend using a sanding sealer or some sort of sealer prior to covering. I have also used spot body glaze in various areas for filling in fillets and the like. Oderous, but dries fast and sands very nice (it is the red stuff). Also have used Squadron Putty with is much like the body glazing. I just primed using Rustoleum Hvy Duty Primer, helps to fill small scratches. However, if you go to re-fill anything after using that primer with a toluene base filler like spot glazing....it will just dissolve your primer. Better to use vinyl spackle such as One Time to finish off any small imperfections. I have my paint from Warbird Colors and will be painting fairly soon...need to pick up a water filter for the hose first. I will have some pics coming soon. I also, did not install retracts....bit short on change. However, I have used Sierra Giant and Robart in the past. I am thinking of going to electric retracts on my next plane....any feedback on those.??
Posted on: 1/9/2012 5:17 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10900712

Spitfire air scoop
I am finishing up a TF MKIX Spitfire. I am look for anyone who has made a scale looking air scoop. I was thinking of using some 1" blue foam to carve the positive then make a one off fiberglass cast. Any help would be appreciated. Especially photos. Tim
Posted on: 1/2/2012 11:53 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10887952

Spitfire finishing
I am about finished building a TopFlite Spitfire and need a source for camoflauge colors and underbelly color. I want to keep it simple. I have acess to an airbrush and comp. Not much available in rattle cans that match the color schemes that I have seen. Need some ideas for what brand to use, acrylic probably more user friendly. I also don't need a pint of each color. Want to not spend a whole lot on this project. Any ideas out there?? Tim
Posted on: 12/5/2011 5:47 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10845057

RE: CMP AT-6 Texan
I was not too crazy about the construction of this plane. Sure a good price and all, but I think they are made on the cheap. I would suggest you take a look on www.troybuiltmodels.com and check out the ARFs they have from ESM. They also have great videos with narration that goes with the videos. Very classy looking planes and not real pricey. You can do an add on retract system for about $140 as well. Tim
Posted on: 9/1/2011 7:58 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10696656

RE: Futaba 9C Programming
It is a 9c Super.
Posted on: 8/22/2011 9:14 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10681639

Futaba 9C Programming
I am having difficullty programming my 9C for flaps and Crow. I read the manual, not much help. The basic problem with the flaps is that I need down elevator as well. We are talking about a 120 UltraStick Lite. I have slected Flaperons so I can adjust each aileron servo. I have assigned switch H for flaps. I have selected AirBrake which is where I understand I should be to add down elevator. I put in -25 for the elevator with the flap switch activated....I get no movement of the elevator at all. Any help beyond the manual would be great. Tim
Posted on: 8/15/2011 6:12 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672523

RE: Curare 60
It's been awhile since my last entry. The fuse in basically complete except the nose. It is a puzzler. The ply nose piece included with the kit is not circular. My guess (which I can not i.d. from the plans) it sits just rear of a circular nose mount. It is sort of rect. in shape with a non circular opening basically in the middle. However, even after finishing, I find it hard to imagine a circular nose profile matching a 2 1/4" spinner back plate. Basically the nose comes together sort of square-like in shape. Hate it when that happens! The tail turned out very nice and has a very sleek profile. The wings are covered and will be glued up shortly. Not according to plans, I installed the servos about 1/2 way down the wing rather than trying to run both ailerons from one servo. Once wing is together, I will then fit it to the use and THEN glue on the farings. That way they will fit tightly. As I think I mentioned before, I made the canopy removable using a fixed front "fork" and rare earth magnets at the rear. Ordered them from K & L magnets. You can buy them individually, but they ding you on shipping. I ordered about 8 magnets for $4 and the shipping was almost $10. They get you one way or the other. I also cut the left foam stab half, came out just o.k. I am getting a lot of 'waves' on the foam. Any ideas....I am using .015 wire (control line)? Do I need more heat? I guess I need to just practice on some scrap foam. I will send some pics soon.
Posted on: 7/4/2011 12:11 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10605664

RE: Curare 60
Thanks, gentlemen. Much appreciated. Doesn/t sig make the same kind of mount but in alum.? Seems to me I had a set at one time. I have to have separate mounts due to the narrow enclosure of the engine area ( 2 1/4" wide). Perhaps using Ralph's idea with a split washer and just a dab of epoxy (5min) may do the job. I would think I could break that bond if need by. I realize this is very unorthodox but not a lot of options. I had also asked about setting up a steering arm for the nose retract. This is totally new to me. I realize there is no set screw for this gear as it must turn. Also, the steering arm must be able to clear the sides of the opening. The thought I had is that the opening in the alum block of the nose gear should be threaded, and then cut threads on the length of the shaft of the nose gear and thread that partially into the alum. block. That would keep the gear in place but allow it to turn right and left. I must be really missing something here. Challenges galore! Tim
Posted on: 6/21/2011 9:43 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10585138

RE: Curare 60
Thanks for the newest information, David. I believe I have the offsets corrected however I realize that getting to the underside of the Sig mount with a nylock is going to be troublesome. J Such tight spaces. So here is my solution: drill and tap the Sig mounts (which are the plastic type) for an 8-32 hex bolt. I may be able to put nylocks on the front two bolts but the rear may not work. Is this going to be a problem. I have used tapped threads on these kinds of mounts before, but I usually add a nylock. Crazy question: will thread lock adhere to these plastic mounts? Next Q: I realize now I should have mounted my nose gear retract a bit deeper into the recess. I forgot about the steering arm! So, the steering arm is just a tad below the bottom of the fuse.(hope that makes sense). I have never installed a nose gear retract before.....do you use a pull-pull system going back to the rudder servo? I would think this is the only system that would work. How could you use a solid wire? When the unit retracts, what ever is attatched to it has to be flexible and bend with the nose gear. So.....you tought you were getting off easy!
Posted on: 6/20/2011 4:50 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10584187

RE: Curare 60
I should probably e-mail Don at Eureka and ask if the FW already is set for 2 degrees of down, but that would have had to be something he added since the plans indicate a 2 degree down set. Does that make sense? If that was the case, perhaps no washers are needed. However, the thrust offset of 3 degrees to the right would then follow suit, I would think. But when I placed the engine (attatched to the mount) on the FW it looked like it was at zero, thus a washer on the left side is called for...or perhaps 2? Actually, I tried 2 and that was way too much..probably more like 5 degrees. I will do some more tinkering and measuring. Thanks again. Tim[;)]
Posted on: 6/15/2011 6:02 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10576159

RE: Curare 60
R_G and David: I think I might agree with you re: thrust angle. 2 degrees is so slight. Not even sure I could detect it with the eye...so if it looks that obvious it is probably too much. When you mention : datum line are you referring to both a lateral view as well as a top view. This seems to make sense to me. So, if I am initiating a down thrust of 2 degrees, my thinking is I would copy the datum line from a lateral view of the plans onto the fuse and take a reading (protractor I guess) from that...? Is there another way? Same would hold true for right thrust....? Tim
Posted on: 6/15/2011 9:02 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10575334

RE: Curare 60
David: you probably spotted my oversight in positioning the trough for my air hose. Right, it is right in line with the wheel well. WELL, I guess I will have to 'snake'it around the well. Which basically means once I install it, it probably is not going to come out. Not a good idea, huh? Ideally, one would like a straight shot, cut how do you do that with the wheel well in the same line? Eeee gads! Can't this be simple?
Posted on: 6/14/2011 6:15 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574366

RE: Curare 60
Thanks for the thoughts, David. I am not sure I agree with your analysis re: One Time spackle. I have done a ton of painting houses in summers and as a contractor for the 15 years after teaching. I have found that spackle remains pretty durable especially with a coat of epoxy on it. I realize your concern is the reaction between spackle and foam. I know when I was removing some excess spackle from the foam it was holding very well. As for time, I can not comment. But realizing my flying skills, the shelf life of many of my planes is rather short. But, the areas where there is spackle, those can be sanded and can remove most of the One Time. I have to work on my foam wing cutting. I have been using laminate for my templates and when I pull the wire across the template, I often feel some resistance. Wouldn't plywood be even more troublesome? Or do you wax the top of the template? Grabbing at straws here! One neat technique I just used to cut out a wheel well for the retracts: I made up a small U shaped piece of wire and attatched it to a piece of lite ply with some 4-40 screws and washers (much like you would make a lot of small foam cutters). I then cut a balsa template a bit undersized from the U piece of wire, turned on the cutter and scribed the wire around the balsa. That gave me a circular trough about 1/4" wide. I then used another wire tool but wider and cut out the remaining foam core. Actually worked pretty good. I suspect there is an easier way, but this one kind of evolved. I then cut a 1/32" lite ply and lined the bottom of the well. Tomorrow I will soak a piece of 1/16" balsa in water with a bit of ammonia and wrap it around a similar size cup as the well and then epoxy it in. Paint it black. The retract has been fitted with the wheel and everything seems lined up. Got the chin block glued in place and will do some shaping tomorrow. So, how was your day? Tim
Posted on: 6/14/2011 6:11 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574356

RE: Curare 60
Got the sides of the fuse joined along with the nose block. Finally managed to get the alignment down for the engine supports. Worked on that for a couple hours. I am modifiying the nose ring rather than using the one that came with the short kit. I prefer to have a circle for the opening, this one is like a rect. race track. I think it will work fine. I also have the aileron servo and retract installation complete for the right wing. I cut channels for servo lead and air line. I will cover the channels with a balsa stick but leave room on the bottom side to allow for installation or removal. I also had some dings in the foam and some ripples due to a somewhat shakey cut with the wire. I wanted to see if I could fill those voids with spackle (OneTime) prior to epoxying the skins and make sure the bond was positive. I took a scrap piece of foam, laid on a coat of spackle, sanded and spread a thin coat of 30 min. Z-Poxy and applied a piece of balsa sheet. I tried to pull the skin loose, you can see the results in the pic. Next chore, work on the other wing and add the chin block. Tim
Posted on: 6/14/2011 1:24 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10573900

RE: Curare 60
David-I have the FW epoxied to one side, but I did fit the top two bolts with one washer to start and then added another washer to the left side top and bottom. I am not really sure what the degree of offset that equals, but I have used that in the past with fairly decent results. Tim
Posted on: 6/11/2011 9:04 AM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10568116

RE: Curare 60
David-Well, I am sure what you said is correct. However, I do not have a laser meter. My old method of shimming will have to suffice. I have done that before and it seems to work. However, I always like to hear the most correct version. Many thanks. Tim
Posted on: 6/10/2011 3:24 PM by Author "mmiller1" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10567192