RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Joystick is that muffler still tight? I'm thinking about doing the mod. I took my Slick to our vacation place in Delaware and forgot my charger. I came home thinking I'll be going back soon, so I left the plane there. What a mistake. I couldn't test my last change. Hope to get there soon and fly it. If it comes loose, your change will be made.
Posted on: 5/9/2012 1:07 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11074705

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Remember when I replaced the rear cover on the muffler? I finally ran the plane about 45 minutes on Saturday. So far all fasteners are tightand no leaks.
Posted on: 3/18/2012 5:04 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11006025

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
myself a better name then mmlong. My friends call me Mike.
Posted on: 2/12/2012 5:22 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10956012

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
This sounds very similar to what happenedto Brilli engines. I still miss Scott and have one of his engines. Its one of the best in the 60cc class. I hope we Syssa customers can help this business through this rough patch. This engine shows great potential. My last session left the muffler loose. Instead of just tightening it, I took it off the engine to check it out. After taking it apart I thought the very back plate seemed very thin. I'm thinking it's so thin that it sets up a vibration which in turn loosens things up. I found a piece of sheet aluminum about .100" thick(double the original). I used the thin one as a template and cut and drilled a new thicker piece. Next I happened to have the 2mm screws that were too long. I cut them for maximum thread engagement and red locktited them in. Also used high temp sealer and put the thing back on the engine. Here's the bad news............the weather took a turn for the worst and its going to be awhile before it's tested. Bottom line this engine is a real screamer and takes the A J Slick anywhere it wants to go. The recommended prop(18.5x5.5) has instant response. My buddy says," I wish mine would pop like that". We'll figure this muffler out and move on. What can we do to help Syssa move forward? I want to help!
Posted on: 2/11/2012 4:35 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10954667

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I make my own stand offs. Use 3/8" hex aluminum. 8X32 threads will work, drill and tap both ends. I use a 3/4" washer .100" thick to keep from crushing the wood on both sides of the fire wall. The hex permitts you to hold the stand off and tighten both ends. The thickness of the washer could be flexable to make the length you need. Its simple math. Good luck. Oh and you are going to need access to a lathe.
Posted on: 1/19/2012 11:43 AM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917222

RE: Super Lazy Ace
What happened to the project? This winter I got my Super Lazy Ace out and started to recover it. I had so many different engines on it that cowl is full of holes. Anybody know where I can get a new cowl? Its being covered in blue and yellow kinda like a Stearman in military colors. Originaly built back in the 80's from Chuck Cunningham plans. This was my first scratch build, so I have some feelings for it.
Posted on: 12/28/2011 1:23 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10880000

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
When I recieved my engine, there was nothing in the box but the engine, stand offs and ignition. No template. In fact the spinner I ordered still isn't here. The order date was Oct 10 order number 1275. Just the prop came Oct 21. Nov 4 was the arival of the engine, the chicken stick, stand offs, drilling fixture and the ignition. Not one piece of paper, billing instructions etc. Sometime in Nov, I emailed asking about the spinner. I got an answer From Jenn saying we missed it, it should have been in with the prop, I'll send it today. Dec 5 still no spinner. On Positve side: I printed the instructions on the web site. It was very easy to measure the 3 mounting holes and do a calculation. I drilled the fire wall and hit dead center in the cowl of a 71" AJ Slick. The unit started so quick, it startled me went it fired and has run well since. I only have about a gallon through it and it has no trouble pulling the Slick around. It is an on going wait for the final part and I'm not one that is good a waiting. The weather has been bad and flying season is over. It flys good without the spinner and its hard to notice it's not there on a low pass. I like the engine alot, but there are some issues.
Posted on: 12/5/2011 7:38 AM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10844116

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
Hey guys. I finaly found why the optp switches work sometimes. I use Futaba products. I found the switches work with a Rx number R6008HS. They do not work with my R6014FS. I called Futaba at last to find out what is the difference? It seems Futaba designed the 6014 with just 2.7 volts on the signal side. They must have seen the error in their ways, because the newer HS series of recievers had the signal voltage bumped up to 3.0 volts. The guy I talked to had no suggestions on what do with FS reciever. When I suggested where I would like to put it, he hung up on me. Well bottom line line the switches are good, but they wont work with the signal strength under 3.0 volts. It was weeks working on this(off and on), but I finally got an anwser that satisfied my curiousity. I'm sure others have struggled with the same problem or even returned the perfectly good opto switches.
Posted on: 5/6/2010 5:06 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9715394

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
Switches: I went to 140% travel both ways with my Futaba. It increased the travel on the servo I used to make sure the radio was sending the signal. I gave up and put the TOC Yak back together so its ready to fly. My YD-A is in an Extreme Yak and I'm very happy with the set up. Its awesome that the header from DA fits right and the mounting holes in the fire wall are the same. I've been following the forums concerning first the RCGF line and then the improved YD-A. You guys helped me so many times, I should have kept a record. I have a 20cc, a 26cc and the 56. All filled the need except the 20cc mounted on a Seagull Yak .90 size. It wont pull vertical and the plane itself is very twitchy on the elevator. The 26 out pulled an Evolution 26 on a 120 Tiger(my break in plane). I really like these gas engines. One happy Mike
Posted on: 4/12/2010 4:38 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9655892

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
Henry, We talked at Toledo and bought two opto switches from you. I spent a couple hours trying to get my ignition on or off. I read the entries about the switches early in the forum. I checked the Rx with a servo to make sure the radio was working. What am I doing wrong? I can't believe both switches are bad, but neither "arm" my ignition. Please, I need some help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on: 4/12/2010 1:15 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9655451

RE: H9 Spitfire Build
This is for Highstrut. I did the same thing with my retracts. Only I still can not figure where the flat spring goes! Can you help?
Posted on: 12/24/2006 12:19 PM by Author "mmlong" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5156043