RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
I used a combination of blue masking tape from the hardware store (works great!) and a premade mask for the flames. Its been lots of years since I used liquid mask, but I'm planning on giving it a go. Both my trucks will need new bodies in the next few months. Need to stop flipping my Savage. The rock crawler there isn't any hope for.
Posted on: 5/29/2009 11:55 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8810466

RE: Is this airbrush any good?
I'd be pretty inclined to spend the money on a good Iwata. They make a model that is in that price rage that is a great beginner brush. You can spend a little more and get a near professional brush as well. My HP-C cost about $120, and has never let me down. The main advantage is that you can get parts almost anywhere, and its a known quantity for possibly the same money.
Posted on: 5/29/2009 11:53 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8810461

RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
Looks good! Hope you had fun doing it. Painting has rapidly turned into one of my favorite things to do in RC.
Posted on: 5/28/2009 2:27 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8805068

RE: Need post surgery entertainment!
Should probably clarify that I've always wanted a RC heli, and am looking at this as a trainer to get into helis long term, rather than as a toy.
Posted on: 5/25/2009 12:05 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8795884

Need post surgery entertainment!
Just had hip surgery, am stuck in the house at least 2 more weeks. Am planning to buy an indoor heli to help entertain me (can get around on crutches fine, just can't drive for awhile). 20+ years in land based R/C with some glider experience thrown in. Also got good enough with an Air Hog to reliably land it on the blades of my celing fan 20 feet up (tall celings). Looking for a suggestion for something that will be small enough to have lots of fun with indoors/backyard and have a budget that is $150ish, ideally with some room to order spare parts. Am looking at the Walkera versions of the Novus helicopters, mostly to be able to get parts locally, but am not sure what to buy given my experience level. I'm inclined towards the , but tend to pick this stuff up pretty fast and don't want to get bored. What do you all think my chances are of being successful with a 4#3B or 4G3? Anything else I should be looking at? Thank you!
Posted on: 5/24/2009 11:56 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8795865

RE: Can't seem to spray Faskolor without Diluting
I wouldnt use paint thinner for cleaning up Faskolor, unless its the stuff Faskolor sells as thinner. Faskolor is water based, and cleans up well with plain old water. Windex is different from alcohol. Don't know what all is in it, but it is probably mostly water with some ammonia and a cleaning agent of some kind.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 11:41 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8675574

RE: Can't seem to spray Faskolor without Diluting
I've always used water, but I've heard of folks using windex.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 2:05 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8673901

RE: Can't seem to spray Faskolor without Diluting
Faskolor should be thinned somewhat for airbrush use if you want it to atomize and lay down correctly. You want it about the consistency of whole milk. My fairly expensive Iwata airbrush doesn't like it unthinned, either, and it will spray, but is fairly thick. I'm not surprised yours won't even draw up the sipon tube. Practice on 2 liter pop bottles until you can get the consistency right for your airbrush.
Posted on: 4/11/2009 9:27 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8671993

RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
Hey, you're totally welcome. Lots of people have helped me out, thought I'd pass it along. I'll be stoked to see the results. Justin www.savagehowto.com
Posted on: 4/6/2009 10:39 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8653907

RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
I think I used about 1/2 a bottle, maybe a little more.
Posted on: 4/6/2009 12:33 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8652958

RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
Always paint the darkest colors first (excludes window tint). In this case, mask the windows and star, as well as any other details you want to take care of, unless you're doing some black or something else dark. Paint the main color, remove the star mask, paint the star, remove the window mask, tint the windows. No need to mask the body to tint the windows if you've done a few light white coats. Here is the thread I made after I did my Betty body: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7903771/anchors_7903771/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7903771 I masked the entire body except for the black parts first. I drybrushed silver for the headlights, grill and winch, then sprayed black to back it. I then masked the windows, bed, flames and gas cans. I painted the olive drab, then the gas cans. The bed was unmasked, and drybrushed brown to simulate the woodgrain. This was backed with beige/tan. The flames were then done by edging them with orange and filling the rest with yellow. The Createx I used is pretty much the same stuff as your Faskolor. Thin it down to the consistency of whole milk. I think I shot mine at about 30 psi. Search a little to find this, as I can't remember for sure. Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.
Posted on: 4/5/2009 12:30 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8650765

RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
Faskolor (or any other lexan paint) will work great. I used maybe 2 or 3 parts yellow to 1 part black and a small amount of green to make a very military color. Tinker to find what you like best.
Posted on: 4/5/2009 12:42 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8649728

RE: B-17 Betty Body Color? Tamiya TS-28 Lexan Compatable?
Don't know about that Tamiya paint, but you can mix your own really easily. Olive drab is actually a very dark shade of yellow. Add black to yellow till you get a shade you like. Make sure you mix plenty, as it is almost impossible to exactly match if you run out part way through. You may want to add a little green as well. Did this for my Betty, and it turned out great. Have fun!
Posted on: 4/4/2009 8:33 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8648953

RE: Would Like More Power for SC8
I'm still breaking in my P3 and I'm impressed with it. Much more powerful than the F4.1 that came stock with my Savage.
Posted on: 12/3/2008 11:59 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8208599

Picco P3 carb options?
The carb on my P3 has broken off where the banjo fitting for fuel entry attaches to it. A-Main has a new carb for $65, but I'm wondering if anyone has other options for a quality carb that would be better for similar money or equally good for less. Thanks!
Posted on: 12/3/2008 11:58 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8208595

RE: Bead-lock wheels
Slightly lower center of gravity, but the loss in performance doesn't really balance that out. For a basher, beadlocks are fine. You'll take a small acceleration and handling hit (greater unsprung weight), but it isn't too big a deal. Makes a significant difference for a race truck.
Posted on: 11/23/2008 9:23 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8176762

Aftermarket TVP suggestions
I've put a major bend in my TVPs and am looking for a recommendation on an aftermarket set. I've checked out the Innovative RC and Fast Lane Machine sets. Any others I should consider? Is one of those better than another? Durability is my main concern with weight taking a close second. My truck is currently mid tanked, and I'd like a setup that will allow me to continue this. Being able to use the Roto start is a must, but I'm happy to mod/replace bulkheads if needed to make it work. Finally, how much of a difference does running extended TVPs make, and in what ways does it change the handling? Thanks!
Posted on: 11/23/2008 2:46 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8174331

Roto-start mods?
Anyone tinker with their Roto-start? Any changes I can make so it will work better? Thanks!
Posted on: 11/23/2008 2:30 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8174333

Picco P3 roto start backplate?
Hey, I've just ordered a Picco P3 and need to know if the HPI F4.1 rotostart backplate will fit. I did some searching and it looks like it probably will, but want to get confirmation so I can be running next weekend without any hangups. Anything I need to do to make it work right? If it doesn't fit, anyone know the part number of the part for the P3 to make the roto work? Thanks!
Posted on: 11/9/2008 9:31 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8131573

RE: $200 engine
I'm comfortable with an engine that takes some tinkering. I just don't want to have to screw with it non-stop. I've pretty much toasted my stock HPI engine learning to tune it, but managed to get a few gallons through it first. I still runs OK, I just want something with more power and have $150 in credit at the LHS.
Posted on: 11/3/2008 1:45 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8109909

$200 engine
I'm looking to replace the engine in my Savage and want to spend less than $200. Priorities are: 1. Must be able to use stock Roto-start 2. Good power 3. Easy to tune 4. Good quality 5. Able to get parts Thanks!
Posted on: 11/2/2008 9:53 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8109337

RE: First airbrushed body and thoughts for noobs
Thanks for the kind words, all. I figured the green would be a matter of personal taste. I was shooting for a hot-rodded retired military truck kind of look. I really wanted to do flat green with gloss flames, but I'd have had to paint it on the outside to get the effect I wanted and didn't want the paint to get wasted in wrecks. Bud-I'd be happy to paint you one if you'd like. I'd love a chance to do it again without the mistakes I made the first time. The bed was done by masking off alternating strips with tape and drybrushing it with brown paint. I then shot the entire bed with beige. The winch, grille and headlights were done in the same way, but with black drybrushed and backed with silver. I also dragged the handle of the brush diagonally through the black on the grille to recreate the wire. I think I'd do it with tape next time, as the lines would be more straight. Justin www.savagehowto.com
Posted on: 8/31/2008 2:47 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7905289

First airbrushed body and thoughts for noobs
Finally got out the new airbrush. This is only the third or fourth body I've painted in 20ish years of R/C and the first with an airbrush. It isn't perfect, as I had some problems with bleeding and cobwebbing, but I'm really happy with it overall. The body is all paint, and I don't plan on adding any decals despite some small smears and errors. You can't really see it in this pic, but I was able to get a really good wood plank effect in the bed. I'd love feedback, suggestions, etc. I learned some things I've listed below for anyone else starting out: 1. I love my respirator. This was painted with a combination of Createx and Pactra lacquers. I was surprised at how much the respirator kept out, and how strongly the Pactra smelled when I took it off. I'm glad I kept all that out of my lungs. 2. Thinning is your friend. The lacquers cobwebbed badly, but sprayed beautifully after being thinned 1:1. The Createx went on thick, and I had problems getting the masking off cleanly because of it. I'll thin it quite a bit on the next body I paint. 3. Shot glasses make great reuseable mixing cups. 4. Mix more paint than you think you need. I custom mixed the olive drab paint, and had to make more than one batch. The result was a subtle mottling in the color. It works really well on this body, but wouldn't look right on a more modern body. 5. A secondary regulator is a great tool. I installed one on my workbench with a water trap partway through this project. It made a big difference in the accuracy of my pressure settings and how convenient it was to change pressures. 6. Low pressure is your friend. This allows more fine detail and better control. I was surprised at the difference. More thinner, less pressure is the painting version of JRH's gear down, volt up mantra. Practice with 2 liter soda bottles to see what works for your style. 7. Clean often. All those little tiny holes in the brush clog quickly and can dramatically impact spraying performance. I'm sure there is stuff I've forgotten and most of you probably already know all that. Thanks for looking!
Posted on: 8/31/2008 12:39 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7903865

First airbrushed body and thoughts for noobs
Finally got out the new airbrush. This is only the third or fourth body I've painted in 20ish years of R/C and the first with an airbrush. It isn't perfect, as I had some problems with bleeding and cobwebbing, but I'm really happy with it overall. The body is all paint, and I don't plan on adding any decals despite some small smears and errors. You can't really see it in this pic, but I was able to get a really good wood plank effect in the bed. I'd love feedback, suggestions, etc. I learned some things I've listed below for anyone else starting out: 1. I love my respirator. This was painted with a combination of Createx and Pactra lacquers. I was surprised at how much the respirator kept out, and how strongly the Pactra smelled when I took it off. I'm glad I kept all that out of my lungs. 2. Thinning is your friend. The lacquers cobwebbed badly, but sprayed beautifully after being thinned 1:1. The Createx went on thick, and I had problems getting the masking off cleanly because of it. I'll thin it quite a bit on the next body I paint. 3. Shot glasses make great reuseable mixing cups. 4. Mix more paint than you think you need. I custom mixed the olive drab paint, and had to make more than one batch. The result was a subtle mottling in the color. It works really well on this body, but wouldn't look right on a more modern body. 5. A secondary regulator is a great tool. I installed one on my workbench with a water trap partway through this project. It made a big difference in the accuracy of my pressure settings and how convenient it was to change pressures. 6. Low pressure is your friend. This allows more fine detail and better control. I was surprised at the difference. More thinner, less pressure is the painting version of JRH's gear down, volt up mantra. Practice with 2 liter soda bottles to see what works for your style. 7. Clean often. All those little tiny holes in the brush clog quickly and can dramatically impact spraying performance. I'm sure there is stuff I've forgotten and most of you probably already know all that. Thanks for looking!
Posted on: 8/30/2008 11:58 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7903771

First airbrushed body and thoughts for noobs
Finally got out the new airbrush. This is only the third or fourth body I've painted in 20ish years of R/C and the first with an airbrush. It isn't perfect, as I had some problems with bleeding and cobwebbing, but I'm really happy with it overall. The body is all paint, and I don't plan on adding any decals despite some small smears and errors. You can't really see it in this pic, but I was able to get a really good wood plank effect in the bed. I'd love feedback, suggestions, etc. I learned some things I've listed below for anyone else starting out: 1. I love my respirator. This was painted with a combination of Createx and Pactra lacquers. I was surprised at how much the respirator kept out, and how strongly the Pactra smelled when I took it off. I'm glad I kept all that out of my lungs. 2. Thinning is your friend. The lacquers cobwebbed badly, but sprayed beautifully after being thinned 1:1. The Createx went on thick, and I had problems getting the masking off cleanly because of it. I'll thin it quite a bit on the next body I paint. 3. Shot glasses make great reuseable mixing cups. 4. Mix more paint than you think you need. I custom mixed the olive drab paint, and had to make more than one batch. The result was a subtle mottling in the color. It works really well on this body, but wouldn't look right on a more modern body. 5. A secondary regulator is a great tool. I installed one on my workbench with a water trap partway through this project. It made a big difference in the accuracy of my pressure settings and how convenient it was to change pressures. 6. Low pressure is your friend. This allows more fine detail and better control. I was surprised at the difference. More thinner, less pressure is the painting version of JRH's gear down, volt up mantra. Practice with 2 liter soda bottles to see what works for your style. 7. Clean often. All those little tiny holes in the brush clog quickly and can dramatically impact spraying performance. I'm sure there is stuff I've forgotten and most of you probably already know all that. Thanks for looking!
Posted on: 8/30/2008 11:57 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7903765

Resources?
OK, so I've finally ordered myself an airbrush (Iwata HP-CS) and need to learn how to use the thing. Anyone able to suggests books, websites, classes, etc.?
Posted on: 7/20/2008 7:35 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "RC Painting, Detailing & Bodies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7752697

RE: Buku + Hypervalve System
No pipe is going to give you mind blowing power. The Buku is an interesting concept, but you'll see single digit percentage boosts to your power at best. Justin www.savagehowto.com
Posted on: 7/19/2008 1:08 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7748498

RE: Hitec 7955 ??
Also, any chance they'll make these in white or some other reflective color? The lack of cooling circulating air and exposure to direct sunlight seem to make the servos heat up more during the summer. The 110 degree temps here in Colorado don't help much, either.
Posted on: 5/7/2008 4:16 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7467948

RE: Hitec 7955 ??
Mike- I'd be really interested in knowing what kind of testing methodology you end up using for crawlers. I suspect that the higher resolution won't be of much interest, but that the overload protection might be. There are lots of guy toasting 5955s and 8711s out on the rocks, especially in the larger super class rigs. Even in my Axial I completely destroyed (stripped multiple gears) the gear train of my burly Airtronics in about 3 months of comp and recreational use. If there are any opportunities to assist in testing I'd be really interested.
Posted on: 5/7/2008 4:11 PM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7467915

RE: Hitec 7955 ??
Anxiously awaiting release date info. I've toasted the servo in my crawler and am trying to decide between a 5955tg and waiting for the 7955. Any comment on how the testing methodology that showed the 5955s to lose power would compare to real-world use in a crawler? Also, are there any upgrades outside of improved resolution?
Posted on: 5/6/2008 12:49 AM by Author "mortimersnerd" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7461309