RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: novayusa I don't have a PTE36R on hand. So, I can't do the same experiment. The header length measurement is from exhaust port to end of header including flex section. The value of the experiment just for reference. I know different engine will cause different result because of their design and engine conditions like temperature....etc Here I have the other small engine DLA32. Maybe I can do it again if you guys have interesting to know the result. [/quote] Don't get me wrong... It's GREAT data. I'm just wondering why it's burried in this thread if it's of no relavance to the PTE36. Also, I went back and looked but didn't see anything; do you have any plans to make a header for the PTE36?
Posted on: 4/25/2012 7:36 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056957

RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?
Is this test data supposed to be representative of what this canister/header combo will do on the PTE36? What I know of larger 2stroke engine tuning tells me that even when displacement is identical two different manufactures engines are going to respond differently to the same exhaust because of squish, dome shape, exhaust port timing, etc. Also, heat in the exhaust changes performance. Keeping heat in the exhaust keeps the pressure wave moving quickly resulting in more top end (RPM) and cooling the exhaust will slow the wave down typically results in more bottom end grunt. Yes, I'm over simplifying but you get the picture. And again, my tuning experience from my days for tuning & racing jet ski's so I may not be applicable to these small engines. Actually, I hope it's not because I'd love to shorten the header on my canister to help alleviate some weight from behind the CG point of my plane so I could remove some of the weight from the firewall. Also, is that measurement including the flex section? (here's a pic of the subject plane on it's maiden with the PTE36)
Posted on: 4/25/2012 7:16 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056930

RE: KMP Stuka-build details
[quote]ORIGINAL: irocbsa Time to take out a small diameter Dremel cutoff wheel and deepen the recess for the hinge. The same thing happened with my plane. [/quote] That's what I was thinking.
Posted on: 4/24/2012 9:06 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11055655

RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Has anybody had any issues with the hinges not going into the wing far enough? I just started putting my winter camo stuka together and most of the hinges on one wing wont go in far enough. I can see that the slot appears to be blocked with something but I'm not sure how to go about clearing it. I've tried poking at it with my hobby knife but it's not budging. It seems as there is a wood piece glued in the way. Ideas?
Posted on: 4/24/2012 6:54 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11055502

RE: *Hangar 9 New Pulse 125*
[quote]ORIGINAL: JoeMamma Hi Fellahs, As I had mentioned about a year ago, I thought there was an error in the [b][u]rudder throw [/u][/b]specs. The manual states to set the rudder low-rate at 1/2", and the high-rate at 3/4". I thought this was much too low. The first time I flew mine I noticed I could not make a simple turn on the ground when taxying. When she was in the air, stall turns were all but impossible. On subsequent flights I kept setting the rudder throws higher. My settings were at 1 3/4" low-rate, and 2" high-rate with 40% exponential. Stall turns were still sloppy. Last night I opened up the rudder throws to 3 1/2" low-rate and 4" high-rate. I also reset the exponential to 45%. The 4" setting is the highest setting you can achieve without the rudder smacking the elevators. I took her out today and noticed my stall turns are now a lot sharper. [:D] Ground taxying is also much better. My CG is set at the high end of the recommended specs and a little tail heavy at 3 7/8". Joe M. [/quote] I felt the same way. I have no idea what the throw is on my rudder now but it's at least double what the manual suggest. Same with CG but I started in the middle of the suggested range by adding 8oz of lead to the nose. I slowly removed the weight incrementally until all added weight was removed and it still flys a little nose heavy. The manual is definetly erroring on the side of caution.
Posted on: 3/18/2012 4:55 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11006006

RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?
I just received my first PTE slated for a 1/4 scale L-4 using a canister as that stock exhaust is obnoxious. Looking forward to getting this thing in the air.
Posted on: 3/6/2012 7:06 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10989366

RE: *Hangar 9 New Pulse 125*
Well, I've been flying the crap outta my Pulse/DLE combo and my opinion of this combo has not changed; I love it. I have now tried both a 16x8 & 17x6 Zoar and my preference is the 17x6. Also, finally got around to weighing the plane and it weighed in at 8lbs 8oz with 8oz of gas. Not bad considering the advertised weight is 8.2-9.5lbs.
Posted on: 2/4/2012 2:30 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10943867

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
[quote]ORIGINAL: mach2 Thanks for the info. So I bet the only fix for it is to switch to the 55 ign. [/quote] It's not really needed. Just tune properly and set the idle around 1700 and you'll be fine. I've been flying mine for months and don't even notice it.
Posted on: 1/19/2012 8:42 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917974

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
If your idle is to high then it will take a second to drop. There is a timing advance built into the ignition that hits around 2100 (if memory serves me) that will cause the idle to jump. When throttling back, it can take a second to get below the RPM threshold to get the timing to retard and drop the RPM back to idle. [quote]ORIGINAL: mach2 [quote]ORIGINAL: nefariousrc Those props are too
Posted on: 1/19/2012 8:17 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917951

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Those props are too small and will put you over 9k which is too much. Ideal props for this engine are 16x8 or 17x6. Even the 15x10 unloaded too much in the air and has resulted in an engine failure. As for break-in: run 1 tank at high idle, let it cool and on the second tank tune the high and low and go fly with varying RPM. Full break-in won't happen until ~3ish gallons.
Posted on: 1/19/2012 1:24 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917379

RE: Seagull Super Tucano
Great build but that 15x8 prop is to small.. Even a 15x10 unloads enough in the air to put you over 9k. If you absolutely must run a 15" prop then you should go to a 3 blade to load the DLE 20 more.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 8:25 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10906129

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
Check post #1 in this thread it has details on various props tested on this engine including MA 3blade. As far as break in, it's been said in this thread multiple times to run what you intend to run. The only special break in procedure is to run the first tank at the factory needle settings then tune on the second tank and fly till your hearts content. [quote]ORIGINAL: Thunderbolt47 I'm new to this little engine. (Not gassers) How would a MA 15x7x3B work on the DLE20? I will be running two 20s on an OV10 bronco. (Not a speed deamon) Do I need to break them in with a 2B? I read somewhere in this LONG thread that the engine needs to turn around 8000 static and not go over 9000. Did I read that right? Kelly [/quote]
Posted on: 1/9/2012 1:02 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10900219

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
Made some progress. Got the tail feathers done as well as one of the wings. I also picked up the electronics yesterday as well as received the motor. Went with HS645MG for the tail, HS485HB for the ail & flaps and DS821 for the throttle. The DS821 I had left over from another build.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 1:35 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10898268

RE: Help to ID this Cub kit
Can somebody at least give me an idea as to what the wingspan should be based on the root & fuse measurements? I have access to multiple cub plans I just don't know the size to make the wing & tail feathers.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 1:26 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10898254

Help to ID this Cub kit
Picked this up dirt cheap at the AMA Expo swap-meet and would like help figuring out who's kit it is. I think it's larger than 1/5th scale but doesn't seem large enough to be 1/4 scale. Firewall to tail measures 52.5". I figure another 12" for rudder @ cowl puts this somewhere around 64" in length. It is setup for a 2piece wing and does not have a door on the right side. Any ideas as i need a cowl and window for it as well as wing/tail feather plans for it.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 9:40 AM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10897904

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
Well, let the fun begin. Build table is all setup. Can't believe that this box of sticks will one day fly (hopefully).
Posted on: 12/26/2011 6:24 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877341

RE: Goldberg Super Chipmunk build, round two, modified (rebuild)
Starting to finalize the parts list for my build and wondered where you got the arm for the elevator torque rod. It looks as if you made the one on the rudder but the elevator arm looks to be an off the self item.
Posted on: 12/25/2011 10:02 AM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10875628

RE: How flat should a workbench be?
Thanks guys. To answer some of the questions: I'm building a Goldberg Super Chippy. I plan to use a ceiling tile as my build surface. Thanks for the advise everybody. I think I may just go for it and stuff a few sheets of paper in the center between the table & ceiling tile.
Posted on: 12/22/2011 5:58 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10872225

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
[quote]ORIGINAL: TonyBuilder [quote]ORIGINAL: nefariousrc I just found out that my lovely wife bought me a Super Chipmunk kit for Christmas. This is my first kit build and I'm really excited to give it a try. So far my plans are to power it with a DLE20 with a custom wrap around pitts. Was originally looking at the Aerovate 15cc but it weighs the same as the DLE. My only concern
Posted on: 12/21/2011 7:50 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870846

How flat should a workbench be?
I'm getting setup for my first stick build and I'm wondering just how flat does the surface need to be? I'm using an old Ikea deck with a solid 1/2" thick laminated MDF top. With a 60" level layed across the bench I can fit ~4.5 sheets of paper between the surface and level in the middle. Is that too much? Would a hollow core door really be that much better?
Posted on: 12/21/2011 3:47 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870498

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tarasdad If it were me I'd recut the firewall out of 1/4" birch ply rather than use the kit's laminated lite ply pieces. I'm considering doing exactly that for my Super Chipmunk. I want a solid, strong attachment point for my Saito .80! [/quote] I was planning on cutting a 3rd firewall piece to add strength. Do you think a single piece of 1/4" birch ply would be stronger?
Posted on: 12/21/2011 3:16 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870443

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
[quote]ORIGINAL: TonyBuilder [quote]ORIGINAL: vpresley Hi Check the RCU build threads for this kit. A gasser will be to big for this kit. Small firewall. A 91 for stroke is almost to big. My friend has one with a OS 61 FX, flys it well. Vince [/quote] I have flown two CG chippys with the DLE20 and it takes it very well, ground clearance is not a problem, I am using a 16x8 Xoar and have never hit the prop, performance is great and she floats in without flaps just fine. My finished weight is 10.5lb, I also have retracts in mine. So I would say if you want a DLE20 for your kit, go for it. The firewall is fine, build it strong and you will be ok. You will love this plane with this engine combo. Here is a link to my build if you would like to see what I did. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10665968/tm.htm TB [/quote] Your thread is what helped me finally decide to go for it. And I actually linked your thread up in post #3. I have a spare 16x8 zoar that i will use so thanks for the info.
Posted on: 12/21/2011 12:01 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870124

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
[quote]ORIGINAL: vpresley OK you can use a gasser, just seems like you cut away 1/3 or more of the cowl to put the gasser in there, and it ruins the looks of the plane overall. Yes it will work, but the looks suffer. But thats just me. Vince [/quote] I will be using a wrap-around pitts so I don't have to hack the cowl to much. I will also be stuffing the carb in the firewall so I don't have to move the cowl out so far. Here's a pic of my Pulse with the DLE20 & pitts. Notice how very little of the cowl needed to be cut. Yes, it's more cutting than a glow would require but it's a small price to pay to be able to fly for $0.10 a flight.
Posted on: 12/21/2011 11:59 AM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870121

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
So the kit has been delivered and I'm now in the process of setting up a suitable work area as a true & level work surface wasn't critical to assembling ARF's. I have an old Ikea desk that has adjustable legs that I plan to use for the base on which I will put a hollow cored door on.
Posted on: 12/21/2011 9:48 AM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10869912

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
[quote]ORIGINAL: DavidAgar Ground clearence will be an issue with that big a prop. Mine has an OS 61 on it with an 11 inch prop and I am not sure that a 16 or 17 inch prop will have enough clearence. [/quote] Agreed. I too am worried about ground clearance which is why I'm still on the fence on the 15cc Aerovate or the DLE20. They both weight the same I'm just worried that the 15cc with a 14" or 15" prop won't leave enough in reserve to get me out of sticky situations.
Posted on: 12/18/2011 3:23 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10865460

RE: First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
I've been reading the build threads on this kit for a couple months. A DLE20 has already been put on this airframe and does fine. (as seen here). On my Pulse 125 that has a DLE20 I have a 12oz tank and can easily get 40min of flight time with plenty of gas in reserve so i figure on this plane I'll go with a 6-8oz tank which is 1/2 the size the a 61 size glow would need. Yes, the firewall will need to be reinforced but that's easy enough to do during the build. Ambitious for a first build... Yes but with all the knowledge & experience available via the web and my local club it's doable for a first build.
Posted on: 12/17/2011 5:45 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864166

First Build - CG Super Chipmunk 60
I just found out that my lovely wife bought me a Super Chipmunk kit for Christmas. This is my first kit build and I'm really excited to give it a try. So far my plans are to power it with a DLE20 with a custom wrap around pitts. Was originally looking at the Aerovate 15cc but it weighs the same as the DLE. My only concern is prop clearance as the DLE likes to swing a 16"-17" prop. I also plan on attempting my first smoke system. I do have a couple questions though: 1. What are the torque requirements for servos in this plane? 2. I'd like to do a pull pull setup on the rudder using a torque rod to keep the linkage in the fuselage. I'd also like to do a torque rod on the elevators and hide that linkage in the fuselage as well. Is there a good resource I could read up on exactly how to do this? 3. Is it better to put the smoke tank on CG or the fuel tank?
Posted on: 12/17/2011 4:01 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864049

RE: Goldberg super Chipmunk build
I just found out that my lovely wife bought me this kit for Christmas. This is my first kit build and I'm really excited to give it a try. So far my plans are to power it with a DLE20 with a custom wrap around pitts. Was originally looking at the Aerovate 15cc but it weighs the same as the DLE. My only concern is prop clearance as the DLE likes to swing a 16"-17" prop. I also plan on attempting my first smoke system and going with two aileron servos in the wings. What are the torque requirements for servos in this plane?
Posted on: 12/17/2011 3:54 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864041

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
[quote]ORIGINAL: ahicks [quote]ORIGINAL: nefariousrc So I've ran about 1.5gal through my engine and it's starting to 4stroke @ ~1/3 throttle. I know as it breaks in it will need retuning I'm just wondering if it's normal to need to be leaned out as it breaks in? [/quote] Yes, it's normal for the carb to need adjusting. I'm not sure I would lay the blame completely
Posted on: 12/14/2011 6:53 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10860023

RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
So I've ran about 1.5gal through my engine and it's starting to 4stroke @ ~1/3 throttle. I know as it breaks in it will need retuning I'm just wondering if it's normal to need to be leaned out as it breaks in?
Posted on: 12/14/2011 1:21 PM by Author "nefariousrc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10859451