RE: landing bounce
[quote]Your gears are to soft. Stiffen them up and you will lose the bounce.[/quote] I agree, this is half of the problem, the other is the 4* landing gear is too far forward. I am very good at landing rc planes, it's something I practice a lot, and I try to make it look real smooth. I have a 4* now, I'm not a big fan...they fly ok at best. I have a very short runway with a fence at both ends which keeps you from coming in flat. But I can bring it in and have it so slow that it wants to yaw from side to side and you'd think it's just going to fall out of the sky, but it still won't be slow enough to get a true 3 point landing where the tail wheel touches at the same time as the mains. If you have a good breeze that cooperates right down the runway, then you can land it without a bounce! If I land it on grass, I can land it without a bounce, but on a calm day, or if the wind is across the runway I might get 1 out of 3 without a bounce on pavement. I can land my .25 size extra 300 every time without a bounce, also my Kaos (not fair it's a trike), or any of the various p-51's and spitfires I've owned. If I liked the 4* enough I'd build a new shorter wing, with D-tube construction, and wheels in the wing military style...then replace the stock pushrods...etc. Moving the C.G. forward would probably help, but I don't think it would fly at all to my liking. My dad made his a trike years ago, that cured the bounce.
Posted on: 9/14/2012 8:35 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228931

RE: Shaft driven props
15 or 20 years ago I had a M.A.N. magazine and in the "Small Steps" article was a picture of a B-17, I believe it was built by Bob Kress. The caption said it had a belt drive to pull the 4 propellers with a single .049 T.D. (maybe .09) in the fuselage if I am not mistaken. Anybody else remember that? There was only one picture, if I remember right it showed the bottom of the B-17 with the T.D. head sticking out of the bottom of the fuse and virtually no other information. I hate when they tease like that, I want pictures and details. I also have another magazine somewhere with a C.L. P-39 powered by a .15 size boat motor that was water cooled, the model was complete with a home made radiator and cooling fan. It was mid engine with shaft drive to the prop. Austin
Posted on: 7/14/2012 12:26 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155109

RE: Midwest Wood Products
I've gotten wood from lone star and it's usually been a little over size, I like that, I can straighten the edges and trim it to size. I don't think I've ever gotten any undersize, that would stink since a lot of my plans call for a 3" wide sheet for this or that piece of sheeting. austin
Posted on: 5/23/2012 4:23 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092238

RE: Broken Lobo II
I have one of these from about '86 or '87, white, so far I've managed to keep from breaking the antennae. I've taken toy remotes with broken antennae before and just used coat hanger wire or some similar stiff wire pushed into the the old antennae and then "crimped onto the new wire. It's not pretty but will work. You just need to make the "new" antennae the same length as the old one. I have an eight year old and a 4 year old, now anytime an old rc toy breaks I take the antennae off of the remotes before I toss it, so I can usually find a spare that will work. If the crimp doesn't hold tight enough it can be soldered. You can even use a long straw glued to it with with just a piece of copper wire pulled through it and soldered to what's left of the old anntenae. Austin
Posted on: 2/26/2012 5:50 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Toy-Grade RC Products"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976362

RE: Joy Stick
It's a joys stick, I have the article somewhere and they built three for the article, this is one of them. Austin
Posted on: 2/12/2012 7:35 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10956194

RE: Simple airplane design
If you go to the RC modeler website you can download the PDF version of these articles, and others about model design. Austin
Posted on: 11/22/2011 3:16 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10824490

RE: Printing Tiled Plans - Free Program
Yeah, everything seemed normal when I logged into my paypal account. I've never done the payment by email, but I did see that option while I was in there looking at my account earlier. Is there any other information I'll need to include if I pay this way, or does it send my e-mail or some other information automatically if I pay this way? I tinkered with the free version when you first developed it but I've never really used it for anything, but I have several large PDF files and some Large Tiff files I would like to print up, I don't think that version handled those files, I saw this pop up here fresh and was reading that now it does support those file types, making it a very useful program in my opinion! Austin
Posted on: 9/12/2011 5:46 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10713634

RE: Printing Tiled Plans - Free Program
I tried to order this, are there other ways to pay? I don't understand the paypal thing, I have a pay pal account, when I try to order Tile print, then I sign into paypal, then it asks for my credit card number to confirm who I am...I've never had that happen with paypal before, they have my credit card information on file. I thought that was the point in paypal, I give them information one time. So that scared me away. So, then I tried to use the Visa button, but that just took me back to the paypal login. I don't know what this is, it just "scared" me away. I'm running a Malware scan on the computer, I suppose it could be just a paypal thing that I've never encountered. My bank once did something similar, I tried to log into my account and it started asking for My SS# and my account number....so I backed out and called the bank. The lady was very nice on the phone and asked for all of the same information. I told her "isn't this kind-of rediculous? you send out all of this information warning me about "Phishing", telling me the bank will "never" ask for this and that personal information then you ask for it while I'm trying to log into an account that I've had for 20 years and have been doing on-line for about 10 of those...suddenly I need to confirm all of my personal information. How am I supposed to know I didn't get redirected to a fake bank site?" With the paypal thing I can go to paypal and login, and I can view all of my personal information, make any changes to whatever I like...but then I try to make this one little purchase and they want me to re-enter information they already have on file. Not your fault....Paypal rant. Hopefully I'll come around in a few days, 'cause I do want to purchas this. Austin
Posted on: 9/12/2011 3:33 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10713403

RE: sure start pressure tap
when I used to fly my old Cox Black Widow on my Baby Ringmaster, I hated that the prop wash over the the fuel tubes on the top of the tank worked like a venturi and sucked fuel out of the tank. I had seen some of the slow combat guys run a fuel line from the vent on their tanks to a brass tube pointed at the propellor, so I made litte tubes to do the same thing on my tank, on both vent lines, I had to lean out the needle valve, so presumably it increased the fuel pressure. I've done similar things on larger engines that didn't have a pressure tap on the muffler, I think some of the DF engines derived tank pressure this way also. Austin
Posted on: 8/22/2011 3:25 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10682269

RE: Wing building question
You could draw a centerline down the root rib from LE to TE, then do the same for the tip rib. measure from the centerline to the high point on these two ribs. You can use this information to make your own shim. But you will have to figure out where you want the shim to be while you are building. You should be able to pick a spot on these ribs maybe 1/2" from the back or whatever, measure from the centerline to the edge of the rib at that point, deduct that measurement from the previous measurement, and that should tell you how thick the shim needs to be at both ends. Pin those two ribs down to the building board, pin the shim down exacttly where you made that measurement on those two ribs (around 1/2" from the back of the rib). And now all of the rest of the ribs in between should rest on it just right. There are other ways to do it, depending on the wing design and how it's built. For instance if the back of the rib comes to a pint, then the "Point" on the back of the rib should be the same distance off of the building board as the measurement between the Center Line and the high point of the rib. I'm just assuming it probably has some sort of strip aileron. Austin
Posted on: 7/27/2011 2:41 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10641880

RE: Ace Whizard
run away from the econocote, unless you're doing electric...or even if you are doing electric. I bought 3 rolls of each red/white/blue...I like the old r/w/b colors on flitesteaks and such, and it's easy to see. Put it on 2 planes, the first the seams started seperating, I tried gluing them, but without luck...but even before that the red and the blue started seperating from the plastic, leaving the glue attached to the wood but not the plastic/mylar...whatever it is. So I thougt I'd be pro-active on the second plane, I made sure all seems pointed towards the back of the airplane. I did the entire wing with 2 pieces wrapped around the leading edge and the seam at the back where the aileron hinge line is, with no seam in front; then I "sealed" it real good...anyway, to make a long story short, both planes are in the attic with most of the covering torn off, but too fuel soaked to make anything stick...I now use it to make stars and bars, or stripes, and it still eventually peels off. I covered an electric powered between with it about 18 months ago, and the seems are coming loose without fuel. Really kind of a shame, the econocote went on really well, looked good...same luck with the towercote...may be the same stuff. if you look at the star on the left wing of the Wild Thing you can see clear polyurethane that I used to try and seal it, I tried to seal it everywhere else and somehow the fule got underneath. When I peeled the covering off it was soaked way beyond where I thougt it would be, even where the covering hadn't let go yet the wood is oily. I'd use Ultracote, it's low temp. I like Monokote, but you'd probably melt the foam putting it on. My dad did and ACE Messerschmitt with Ultracote, and it's holding on.
Posted on: 7/13/2011 6:42 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10620059

RE: Tower Hobby engine
My dad has a tower .61, he hasn't had any problems with it, runs good. He hasn't run a ton of fuel through it, although he's had it for 3 or 4 years, so I don't know about wear or longevity. But it does run fine. I run mostly Magnum engines, have been for at least 15 years, I've got some that I have run a lot in that time. I still have them all, the only one I've ever killed was from a nosedive into asphalt. I like the Magnums, and they are cheaper, than O.S.. At least the last time I bought one, right now I have more engines than I know what to do with packed away, so haven't had to buy an engine in a while. I've fought a Super Tiger, but I know people who use them and love them, mine experience wasn't fun.
Posted on: 6/14/2011 3:40 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574093

RE: Under propping
I use 11X5's on my .40's, and sometimes 12X4's, they will help you slow down....don't know why some people think that will overheat a .40. An 11x5 on my .40's actually loads the engine less than a 10x6, if that's what you are running. The larger diameter also presents a larger "disc" up front and will slow you down more, you definitely do not want to go to a smaller prop...like say a 9x7. Lower pitch larger diameter. With a Eagle you should be able to land it about a walking speed with just about any prop. Just use the throttle and the elevator when you come in, a lot of people set up on a long glide and head for the runway. It took me a long time to learn like someone else said, the elevator will slow you down and the plane will sink, then use the throttle to keep it form sinking. Just practice high enough so you don't crash. Austin
Posted on: 6/4/2011 7:43 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10556283

RE: RealFlight realism
to me the take off and landings are unrealistically easy, I can take off the P51 without a hint of rudder, just gas it and go. I've flown several different P51's, and none of them would take off with NO rudder input, for that matter, I don't know if any tail dragger I've ever owned would take off with no rudder input. Maybe with a good strong wind straight down the runway? And the landings are pretty realistic, just you can smack them in pretty hard (no Flare) and not do any damage...landings that would break stuff in real life. The Big Stick fly's pretty close to how I remember mine flying, but pull it back to about 3/4 throttle, as albsurfer pointed out, the engines seem very powerful. I also had one of the Slingers, mine was stock, again it fly's pretty realistic if you pull it back to about half throttle. Maybe if you put a hot brushless on it it would fly like the sim. Those are the only two planes on the sim I've ever owned and flown. It will however get you used to the controls of an airplane. Now, my biggest problem is perspective. I don't know how else to describe it, but looking at the plane flying on the screen, and never having to move your head or eyes...it all adds up to a different experience...that part you can't learn without actually doing it...but the sticks are the same. The first time you look away from your plane and can't find it in the sky, or fly it into the sun and lose sight of it you will get an instant SICK feeling (and panic), that doesn't happen on the sim.
Posted on: 6/2/2011 9:35 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10553272

RE: A new-found tool(s)
You laugh, but I have a '65 Mustang, and you should see what happens if you take it to Pep Boys, (or pick youre chain garage) and tell them you want the points adjusted on it...hah! I converted mine to electronic, I don't think it made any real performance difference, but it did make it a lot more reliable and easy to start. As for Pep Boys, I've never taken it in to have the points adjusted, but I do know people who have, I do all my own work. But I have taken it to a front end alignment shop and you get pretty much the same reaction. Only what they did was "align" the front end and charge me for it. Really all they did was adjust the toe, and center the steering wheel. I don't really think they had any clue how to adjust the camber and caster, you have to use shims, no little adjusters on this thing. So, I did some research, built a few "alignment tools" Using levels and plumb bobs, trammel bar, string, chalk....went to the local H.S. parking lot spent about 2 hrs and got it where I'm satisfied it is "right".
Posted on: 3/26/2011 10:32 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10424001

RE: cox .010 control line airplane
[quote]ORIGINAL: nitroairplane lovely plane do you know were i could get plans for it from and yes that is a large tank probably does about 8 miniutes in flight [/quote] If you're asking about the little orange and yellow ringmaster, I don't have plans for that, but I did draw up in cad format the profile ringmaster with the flat wing for .049, it could be scaled to any size you want. I also have a pdf file for the .049 Baby ringmaster with the built up wing.
Posted on: 3/17/2011 7:46 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10406992

RE: cox .010 control line airplane
I saw this and remembered these pictures, don't remember where I found them. I also have a scan of a magazine article and a set of plans for another .010 size cl plane somewhwere, I remember he talks about flying a demo indoors from a stage [image][/image]
Posted on: 3/2/2011 8:43 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10375776

RE: How to even the field
funny, when I was in my teens in the late '80's racing 1/10 scale electric cars there were always the guys who'd show up and race in the "stock" class and be way faster than everyone else, and sometimes they'd get busted. Some were even sponsored by the manufactures and would get hand picked motors and speed controls from parma or bolink or whoever. And even as a stupid 17 year old kid I always wondered why compete in the STOCK class and insist on running MODIFIED gear that was clearly illegal in the stock class...oh yeah...most of them were "good enough" to be competitive even with a 17 year old kid, but they just can't stand to lose. If they ran stock in the stock class someone might actually out drive them, and in the modified class they'd have no advantage, again they'd have to compete to win. The worst guys were the ones that would run you into the wall on purpose as you tried to pass! I had to run stock, I was dirt poor and didn't have enough money to experiment on my gear, half of what I ran was used stuff, and a lot of my motors were the stock trinity or bolink motors that came in the kits, when the other guys would buy a new car they would pretty much give me the stock motor's that came with their rc10 or whatever, and I ran them, and won my fair share with those motors...not to mention half used tires I'd buy from the guys that would only run them one weekend... Almost everything I've seen or heard of that starts with good intents seems to devolve to this at some point. Oh we're gonna race 4*40's with only stock K+B .40's then some guy buys 10 of them at a time so he can mix and match parts to build a super .40, polish this port, ream that muffler, "oh no, it's stock..." ...you get the idea...I lost interest in all the competition...I try to follow the rules to the letter, so it sucks to get beat all the time by people who you "know" are not. Austin
Posted on: 2/8/2011 5:57 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10322067

RE: 808 Key chain cam
how and where did you mount the camera? I put one of these on a 4*40 and the vibrations were so bad the video is pretty much unwatchable, the other problem, which is not as big an issue, is dropped frames, it just looks like it is filming a less than 30fps...but it's okay in that regard. The vibrations make the picture wavy, I see very little of that in your video, are you using a fast memory card maybe? So far I've only tried the cheap ternigy memory card. Austin
Posted on: 2/5/2011 7:42 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10314125

RE: tip airfoil
I would use flaps, or you can add a sharp leading edge to the inboard section of the wing causing it to stall first, of course combined with washout. You could also use different airfoils at the root and tip, but this complicates the design and build. I've heard of people putting a piece of tri stock on the leading edge in the center section to cure tip stalls, I think I'd do flaps. I had a small and heavy T6 Texan with a highly tapered wing, it had no flaps and you had to really keep the speed up on it, and be real conscious of what you were doing with the elevator. Just some thoughts.
Posted on: 2/5/2011 7:32 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10314102

RE: Guillow's 16.5 inch F6F Hellcat
what'd you cover it with. That's kind of been my sticking point, I don't mind doing tissue and dope, but it doesn't last for long. Austin
Posted on: 1/22/2011 4:51 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10281112

RE: o.s max engines
Okay, just to answer the original question, from someone who actually runs 2 OS max engines as we speak. One a .15, the other a .25, both lapped pistons that I bought for very cheap in the mid to early nineties. I've run both of them a lot over the past 15 or so years and have used almost exclusively Ritches brew and according to the label I run 50/50 castor synthetic blend with 22% oil I believe, I'd have to run out to the shed to see for sure, but I think it's 22%. And they both run fine. I've only ever had 1 gallon of pure castor fuel (fox fuel) and it was winter time and it was like cleaning syrup off of the airplane. And one gallon of pure synthetic (red baron brand fuel) and on that one I toasted the rear bearing in my Saito .50 and never bought another gallon of pure synthetic. But the Saito was an old engine, and I think the real problem was oil content, my flying buddy and myself put some in a measuring cup and let it evaporate and when we figured what was left was oil it was only about 15 to 16%. As far as plain bushing engines in general, my most run engine of all is my OS 40fp, I've used that engine almost constantly since about '92 on the 50/50 fuel and have never had any trouble, I like plain bushing engines because there is no bearing to rust and go bad. And last, I have a YS .45 that I have owned nearly as long, and haven't run nearly as much, mostly because I've had to take the diaphram off and clean gunk, and also sticky check valave, both probably due to castor in the fuel. That's my guess anyway, I'll clean it up put it on something after about 50 runs it'll become hard to keep running, then I take it off, put something else on the plane until I feel like going through the YS again. Austin
Posted on: 1/3/2011 5:22 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10237420

RE: RE:
I think one of the things that makes glow favorable to me is that I don't have any problems tuning. I flew a 4*40 all summer on a cheap old Royal .46, I might have adjusted the high speed needle 2 times all summer long. And I might have used the electric starter 3 times. I have a .40fp I've been flying since aroun '91 and I probably haven't put 4 glow plugs in it in that entire time, and almost always hand start, I went for years not even carrying a starter to the field, my flight box was a 6 shooter hand fuel pump, a gallon of 10%, and a Nicd for the glow plug. I usually flip with my fingers (I know but I still have all 10), but sometimes I'll use a piece of old heater hose. If my engine don't flip after about 3 flips, I don't just keep flipping, I start looking for something wrong. One of the problems I had when I was tweaking the .46 this summer turned out my fuel had gone bad. Plane would take off just fine fly for about 2 minutes then die, after 2 or 3 attempts I borrowed a tank of fuel, plane ran fine, so I cracked open a new gallon, problem solved. I've watched one guy come out to the field where I used to fly, he'd tweak and adjust, get frustrated and rest for a while, start over. sometimes he'd doe this 3 or 4 times then pack up and go home. He had OS engines, so I know he had good engines, you could offer advice but it didn't get anywhere, and then on the outsides chance he let someone else adjust it, he'd make a quick flight and land and try to adjust because the "transition was too slow" or "it doesn't sound like it's turning up like it usually does". Meanwhile I'm getting in flights while he's dorking around. I fly mostly smaller planes, a .46 being about as big as I care for. And I am slowly going electric on my little (1/2a size) stuff because that stuff is really getting inexpensive, and I can fly them in a field near my house. I also find that a lot of guys that couldn't fly gas/glow very well do pretty good with parkflyer stuff because it is so light and virtually stall proof. You know the guys I'm talking about, the ones who have been flying for years, but still don't do the basics real good. So it's good in that way, I don't like the fact that the power is diminished after you first take off, and it seems like after about a year my batteries don't make the same power and it is time for a new one. One reason I've been doing a little more electric is because my dad who flies with me had a stroke last year and I'm retraining him with a buddy cord while he retrains his right hand. He'll be able to fly on his own again before he'll be able to crank an engine. I think for people with dissabilities electrics are probably a Godsend. Austin
Posted on: 11/18/2010 6:36 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10143996

RE: buying from our friends here
On a side note, a lot of these guys are willing to "share" stuff for free. I've had an adaptor (2 actually) given to me to mount the Cox "product" engines to a firewall, Baby FliteStreak plans and a few other free flight plans. Not to mention the guys like Dfritzke with his website and plans, and PTulmer...on and on. So, Thanks to all of these guys. Some good people here. Austin
Posted on: 11/13/2010 10:09 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10132691

RE: 1/2 A Pylon Racing
I have one of the black and decker workmate work benches. I took 4 very large pieces of threaded rod I had, put nuts on the bottom, they are about 8" long. I put the in the "dog" holes in the bench and put pipe insulation around them. Then you can clamp the fuselage in firmly whilst you work on it. Works great for set-up like you are talking about, I don't use a jack screw, I just level it with a piece of foam under the tail, snug up the "vice" then fine tune the tail to level, then clamp it tight enough so that it won't move. This is also great for covering, I can turn a wing up on edge, clamp half of it while I cover the other half. Use it to hold the body while I install the radio, drill the firewall...the list goes on. I just looked, I guess I don't have any pictures of it. Austin
Posted on: 11/12/2010 9:19 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Electric Pylon Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131998

RE: Ultra Micro P-51 motor/gearbox problem
I have this problem too, I thought the gear was slipping on the prop shaft, I've changed the gearbox, but not the motor because I get the feeling it is something in the speed control and not the motor. That's one reason I haven't bought a motor for it. I can't slip the gear on the shaft at all, and it is a loud shreak shound, like tiny gears slipping, but none of the gears are stripped. Did you ever find a solution. I figured it was just toast and not worth messing with. I've also noticed on mine that sometimes the light inside goes off and the motor stutters while I'm running it at low rpm's trying to observe what is going on. I hate to just make it a display model after spending $100 on it, but at the same time, it really wasn't anything speacial to fly to spend a lot of my time on. Austin
Posted on: 11/11/2010 6:34 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129648

RE: Its been too long I gotta build something!
with me it's house projects eating up my time, right now it's building a tile shower stall. I've had the itch, just can't decide on a project. I have a half finished, RCM Corsair, HOB P-51, and a scratch built Ace Messerschmitt that just needs covering and radio. But I've been wanting to do something my own, but what? I'm kind-of wanting to do a Baby Ringmaster with one of the old cox product engines...teach my seven year old some control line. And with all the tiny gear available now I think something new for the old Tee Dee .020 would be fun, but as much as I hate to not use an engine, I'm no collector(...I still fly my McCoy .40 on a ringmaster) Where I live and fly now is sandy, and I sure hate to think of my only .020 eating East Texas sand! Especially when electric junk in this size is so cheap. Austin
Posted on: 11/8/2010 7:02 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10123371

RE: Simple 400 airfoil design
the easiest way might be just to reduce it to the proper scale with a copy machine. The way I did it was to trace the image in Modelcad, then I scaled it to whatever size I wanted. I've also done it manually, just figure out the reduction factor, get out a ruler, make a center line, make reference lines and take measurements and multiply them by the scale factor, then draw the new airfoil. There are other manual ways to do it that have been used over the years. I've used the method of making a posterboard pattern with a top half and a bottom half of the rib with a pivot point out front of the LE, then you scissor the TE down until it's the proper length, and you have the new rib outline. This way is not as accurate as far as having the exact same airfoil but will work for what we do. My next "ACE" wing will be built up again (this will be #2), only this time I've redrawn the rib with a flat area on the bottom so it will be easier to build the taper without jigs and tabs. I suspect that it will not make a difference in the flying quality. I've had a 4*40, dynaflite p-51, HOB .20 P-51, GP Dazzler, and a GP Big Stick all with this type of airfoil, and they all flew pretty good. Also, you can do a search for Tileprint, it's a program that will let you print anything scanned on the computer to any size. Austin
Posted on: 10/28/2010 12:53 AM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10099231

RE: Bought a box of goodies..... Is this worth selling? Pics..
11x6 is probably a little much. Mine really like 11X5 APC's. These work great on just about any 25 size plane, or a .40 size fun fly plane like a Dazzler or the GP profile P-51, they make for a good sport flyer that way. Also work good on things like an Eagle II. I have a .40 fp (very similar) that I've been running since about '91 constantly...still going. There are no bearings to rust on these things and they don't turn a ton of rpms so if you take care of them they last for ever with virtually no maintenance. I have a ton of FP's and one LA, it's basically a newer version of the same thing. Some of my favorite engines. But it is definitely not the same as a .40 sf BB engine. But in the right plane they are great engines. One of my favorite combinations is the .40fp on an old Dynaflite Fun Scale P-51. I have one on a modeltech ".30" size extra 300 with a 9X7 prop, fast, and will climb straight up doing vertical rolls, and these engines are way cheaper than the .25 size BB engines. Austin
Posted on: 9/9/2010 8:31 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9991471

RE: Beetween and seven year old son
I was just going with what I had, gettin' kind of hard to find NiCd and Nimh battery packs in the right size anymore, and they cost about the same as lipo. I'm thinking I will upgrade to a cheap Brushless set up when this battery is toast...this is a good setup with the way it is...but if I upgrade to Lipo I'd have to buy the right type of speed control...for not a whole lot more money I can get one of the cheap out runners like the "super tigre" 400 from tower or something similar. I have several 3cell Lipo packs, but I'm afraid they'd burn up the little 380, and I don't want to have to buy 2cells for just this plane. I'd come out cheaper using the batteries I already own and buying a cheapie motor. I'm going to try one of the cheapie Tyco batteries I have from Wal-Mart, but when I tried one before I didn't have much luck in planes...they aren't capable of pulling the amps. I'm not a big electric guy and I don't want to spend much money in that direction. Just in this case there were several reasons for electric...one of the main reasons being the ablility to go within a mile of my house to get in some evening stick time for him. The next one I build will have 2 spars, the spar in this one is weaker on one side and allows one wing to flex more than the other...and flex they do! So when I pulled some loops it pulled hard to one side in heavy g's. on this plane I used a dowel rod from Wal-Mart for the leading edge. At the time I built it I was stationed in Biloxi Ms and the closest hobby shop was about 90 miles, I think I used elmers white glue, and scraps of covering from my Eagle II I built and learned to fly on. there are also no fuselage doublers because I didn't have enough balsa wood, and the trailing edge is just a strip of 1/8" balsa because I didn't have TE stock...didn't even know what that meant at the time. You probably noticed the fancy dowel and popsicle stick motor mount. :-) Austin
Posted on: 8/10/2010 6:56 PM by Author "nekked_man_2000" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9924747