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RE: E-Flight SU-26m
As little as possible is better. If you need to add weights you can still them under the horizontal stab right up to the hinge line. Better to move the battery forward if possible.
Posted on: 3/18/2012 2:48 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11005789
RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
I flew mine with an APC 14x7e on 4000 4S 20C packs and the power was more than plenty. Unlimited verticals. I don’t think that you will need to adjust the timing for this motor. With regards to what your 4S batteries can deliver, I cannot imagine that they’re less that 20C rated so they should be able to deliver at least 80 amps which is far higher than the motor and ESC ratings. The additional weight that you may be carrying is insignificant. Mine just glided in at a very low speed. Yours will do the same.
Posted on: 9/23/2011 8:14 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730409
RE: Precedent Aeronca Champ 1/4 scale
Ok, thanks guys.
Posted on: 5/16/2011 9:38 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10523198
RE: Help with Parkzone quick charger for single cell lipo
Look in the manual as it tells you there what to expect, including the low AA battery voltage warning.
Posted on: 5/15/2011 2:11 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521594
RE: showtime 50 to carbon z
I'd say that if you can fly the Showtime 50 then you really don't need to be worrying about the Yak [:)] As a 3D model it should fly slowly with no issues but, of course, you can take it high and cut the power and see how it glides.
Posted on: 5/15/2011 1:54 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521580
Precedent Aeronca Champ 1/4 scale
I've always built ARTFs (dozens of them) but I've seen this discounted locally. How hard would it be to build from scratch for a first timer ? Thanks
Posted on: 5/12/2011 12:53 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10516083
RE: EFLITE 260 3D 480
Look very closely and you may still see them. If there really aren't any, it may be simpler to buy a hinge slot marking tool and then carefully slip a blade into the trailing edge. Or ask the LHS (if that's where it came from) to see if they will cut them for you. I literally flew the trim off a MUS and my LHS ironed it back on for me.
Posted on: 1/15/2011 2:43 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10264730
RE: E-Flite Beaver
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hellcat716 Wing struts are necessary for support. [/quote] Thanks. With no replies, I already called HH who confirmed that this is true so I've ordered a set.
Posted on: 9/16/2010 12:30 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10006623
RE: E-Flite Beaver
I've just bought a second hand one of these today. It looks to be in perfect condition except for one strut which is broken inside the covering. Are the struts for show or are they needed for strength ? I intend to buy a couple of HS225s for the tail but the wing is already full of Turnigy 1160A servos (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=7562). I wonder if these are up to the job as I don't need to be unnecessarily spending extra money ?
Posted on: 9/12/2010 1:54 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9996776
RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
[quote]ORIGINAL: bart4u jzrf6c I don't have money to burn. My motor was completely useless and there were no usable parts. The motor was a bit larger then the Eflite 32 and is built to be used in large planes. I would never risk using this motor again on a plane the size of the Eratix. Like I said before the cost to shipping it back would almost be the cost of the motor. No reason for me to keep the piece of junk. I have a number of Turnigy motors for my small foam planes and they work fine, I just don't trust their large motors. [/quote] Large motors ? This [link]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14427[/link] is a large motor ! [:D] What an utter monster.
Posted on: 8/31/2010 4:41 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9972255
RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
[quote]ORIGINAL: fiqa i am thinking of byuing turnigy 4s 4000mah 20c battery is it good for this plane thankyou [/quote] Yes it is. I've bought three for mine with a 42-50 650Kv motor with an APC 14x7 prop. The only issue is that it needs care to get it into the fuselage as the pack is wider where the wire exits. I've flown for ten minutes and not had to put half the capacity back into it when charging. The power with this setup is amazing and as far as weight and tip stalls are concerned, mine will easily fly at a walking pace.
Posted on: 6/9/2010 2:14 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9792092
ESC trouble
Hi I bought a Hobbyking SS Heli Series 50-65A ESC. I hooked it up to my motor, an AR6110 and a LiPo and bound it to my DX7. I found that after I had spun the motor up and then throttled down to zero power, the ESC would reboot itself. I would hear the startup tones and I had no control of it until it had finished. If I throttled up again, after a pause the ESC would reboot again. It has to be a full reboot as the soft-start is enabled again. I have eliminated the following •bad connections - all connections are good. •the motor - I've swapped it out for another •the battery - I've tried two •the RX - I've also tried an AR500 •brown-outs - no flashing LEDs on the RXs It doesn't even look like a faulty ESC as I bought a HiModel 50A heli ESC and that does exactly the same thing I've made sure that the throttle stick was fully back before binding and tried it with the trim on neutral and fully pulled back. I've tried it on two models, reset first, one an Acro and one a Heli. Someone suggested that the throttle range needed to be programmed and I followed the advice with both ESCs, connecting the battery while the TX was on with the throttle on max, and pulling fully back after the first set of tones (not the first of the programming options). If been flying electrics for about six years and not seen anything like this. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks
Posted on: 5/15/2010 2:39 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9735658
RE: e-flight mini pulse xt
Do you have this motor already ? If not, this motor is good for decent flight, fits straight into the model and will be fine with your battery. http://www.brchobbies.co.uk/?page=shop&action=additem&item=512 I've seen it in a MPXT and it is similar to the Park 450 for a fraction of the price. Don't get stuck on the branding. They have different names but will be called 2217-9T 950Kv or 2217-09 or similar
Posted on: 3/19/2010 3:22 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9595419
RE: E-flite Taylorcraft
[quote]ORIGINAL: jbflier Has anyone actually flown off the water with floats and if so which floats and setup did you use? Thanks in advance.............. [/quote] This guy has [link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nUhIjckNGs[/link] You could message him via YouTube. Edit: Started to reply before I updated the screen and saw Jaybirds comment about floats on water [:D]
Posted on: 2/3/2010 5:17 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9473902
RE: E-Flite Beechcraft Bonanza 15e
[quote]ORIGINAL: spool-it-up Just came home with this one, so far after opening box looks very good infact better than very good,also ordered the V-Tail option just cant see myself without that item? Anyway just looking for some suggestions on motor power and esc not that theres nothing wrong! with recommended E-Flite power plants just looking for suggestions Thanks Johnny [/quote] I'm envious [;)] Looks like one of their best. Seen this ? [link]http://www.youtube.com/user/HorizonRCdotCom#p/search/1/5TmmjCbyPTQ[/link]
Posted on: 1/30/2010 5:13 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9461924
RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
I used two 1/4" ply spacers and two washers to get the spinner backplate where I need it to be. How has anyone mounted their ESCs ? If I'm to install my 60A HiModel Opto ESC where E-Flite shows their own in the manual I'd have to add an extra 4 1/2" of wire on the battery side giving a total of 6 1/2". There's another 5" on the lipo pack as well. I've read that extending the battery wires is not the best thing to do so hearing how others have installed their own would be interesting thanks.
Posted on: 1/18/2010 6:02 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9426834
RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
[quote]ORIGINAL: lejongleur Mine had a Scorpion 3020-12 weighing 5.5 ounces, and a Chinese 80A ESC weighing 2.6 ounces. I used spacers to jack the engine as far forward as possible without fowling the cowl, and mounted the ESC under the motor box. With this arrangement, I would put the battery (typically a 4S 3000-3850 mah) as far forward as possible and the cg was fine in flight. Weight was just about 65 ounces and the motor gave me 780 watts with a 13x4 TGS or APC prop, i.e. 192 watts/pound. No complaints about the performance. I also used 225MG servos and they are fine. If you hang around Ebay and leave a search out there, you can usually get them delivered for just over $20 once in a while. If only a Dean's plug had not come off a battery lead in flight I would still be flying it . Eratix = very cool plane. [/quote] Thanks. I have the 225MGs ready to go but I just don't recall having to push the Power 32 out far to get the prop on the end.
Posted on: 12/28/2009 3:58 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9366735
RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
[quote]ORIGINAL: speedy72vega [quote]ORIGINAL: IdeaBeing Just put mine together with parts from HobbyKing in Hong Kong. -Turnigy SK 3548 1100kv rated at 770W -Turnigy Plush 60A ESC -Zippy 3S 4000mah lipos -MKS 9660 Servos -Spektrum AR7000 Rx with DX6i Tx The plane flies like a dream and pulls 730W with a 14x7 APC prop. This puts the amps a bit above 60, but as long as I don't hold full throttle the whole time (thoroughly unnecessary) it comes down as cool as it went up. I did have to add 84g (12 oz.) of lead to the firewall to get it to balance on the forward recommended CG. YIKES!!! The battery is full forward in the tray and I will successively remove the lead 7g at a time as my 3D skills improve. I'm considering bumping up the motor size to a Turnigy 4250 which weighs 230g as opposed to 170g for the 3548. If I upgrade the ESC to a Plush 80 (90g vs 60g for the 60A) I should be able to move the battery back in the tray and fly lead-free!!! The MKS 9660 servos are an obscure brand I took a chance on, as I could barely find any info about them. They cost $50 each which is quite expensive by HK standards, so I crossed my sticks and hoped I'd get what I paid for. The servos are great!!! they're fast and responsive as well as stubbornly holding my inputs under pressure. They're a little noisy at rest, but I guess that's part of the thoroughbred digital MG experience. All in all, a great intro to 3D flying and I love the tacky mid-90's raver color scheme for visibility. [/quote] Idea, I'm running the 42-50 in mine, swinging either a 13x8 or 14x7E prop on 4s 3700ma LiPo battery. Talk about a screamer! I know this plane isn't built for speed, but my vertical is almost unlimited, and hover is at 1/2 throttle. The nice thing about running 4S is the amperage draw is considerably lower. I'm running a Super Simple 50-60 ESC, and my amperage draw never goes above 38 amps static. I have my timer set for a 10 minute flight, and the packs barely take 2400-2500ma to recharge. I also have 2 5000ma 2S packs that I run in series, I can nearly get a 20 min flight with them!! I'm running the HS225MG servos that are suggested, I haven't had any issues with them at all. They were around $27.00 each if I remember right. [/quote] Hi I've bought a 42-50 for mine. I had a Power 32 in it before and seem to remember using the small stand-offs but this motor seems to be [i]way [/i]too short. I thought that the motors were a similar size. Am I missing something here ? Thanks
Posted on: 12/28/2009 2:02 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9366455
RE: E-Flite's new Bonanza A36 of F33V. EP
Now I'm [i]really [/i]mad ! It's just not fair. I bet that costs an arm and a leg. Please delete the thread immediately [:)]
Posted on: 10/1/2009 11:28 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9138534
RE: HZ Super Cub Landing Brake
[quote]ORIGINAL: ozgunu Yeah IÂ definitely need to practice that. IÂ figured out that the aera to land is not long enough, cause when IÂ cut the throttle and leave my plane glide to land, it always passes through! Trying to use the elevator a little bit for getting closer to the ground, but this increases the speed! It seems like it's time to find a new place to fly on lol. [/quote] Yes, if a model's in danger of stalling you can push the nose down to increase air speed to avoid it dropping in. Of course, you need to be high enough to be able to do that [;)] It seems like you're learning something. It may be a good idea to get somewhere more suitable to fly in order to avoid damage to plane and confidence.
Posted on: 9/29/2009 11:05 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9132869
RE: HZ Super Cub Landing Brake
You don't need brakes. What you need to do is plan your landing approach better. Turn it around towards your landing area with enough distance to allow you to let it sink down steadily and in time. If you don't think that you can put it down with some field to spare for roll-out, simply apply power and take it round again. Do everything smoothly [:)]
Posted on: 9/28/2009 2:29 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9130304
RE: Horizon - price drop....
Would be good if it was to be so over here in the UK. I've been a big fan of HH and was pleased when they bought the UK distributor. I think that without exception, their sub-brands are wonderful. They can't go wrong. However, their prices are too high just now, even for the standard of what they supply. I saw their stand at the BMFA Nationals this weekend and everything was very nice but I just cannot justify £135 for the RV-9 or £145 for the PT-17.
Posted on: 9/4/2009 9:22 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9067765
RE: Awkward fuel tank bung
The tank has a bung with three pipes anyway. Maybe the tanks are made with multiple bungs in mind.
Posted on: 5/10/2009 3:09 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8757123
RE: Awkward fuel tank bung
I put a small amount of after run oil on the bung and it was in there in an instant. As an aside, what's the nipple like thing (that's in the way of my bung [:@]) next to the bung hole for ? Thanks for the advice.
Posted on: 5/10/2009 9:40 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8756365
RE: Awkward fuel tank bung
[quote]ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner [quote]ORIGINAL: netdudeuk is there anything that I could use to lube it a little ? [/quote] Sure: Crisco, KY Jelly, Vaseline, Glycerin Heck even Vicks Vapo Rub in a bind (only prob with that is your airplane smells like a hospital room for a while[8D]) All will make the task easier with no worries. John [/quote] Don't want to waste the KY Jelly [:D] I'm
Posted on: 5/9/2009 3:55 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8754648
RE: Awkward fuel tank bung
Yes, it's the one that came with the tank. I had thought about the fuel option as it does, after all, have oil in it. However, I know that there are people on here who know about these things through their own experience so I thought I'd ask anyway. Also, I've noticed that as this is a fairly small tank, the fuel line to the clunk that is not slotted onto either the pipe or the clunk is a mere one inch long so it's not offering much in the way of a clunk feature [:@] I have thinner tube but it's too thin to fit onto the fittings and I've already trimmed the pipe a little as it comes through the bung. I like anti-foam clunks and this is about half an inch longer than the standard metal clunks (which weigh the same - 20g) so I could swap it back for a metal one to get a little more fuel tube in there (and therefore, more slop in it). Is there a clever answer to this one ? Thanks
Posted on: 5/8/2009 1:16 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8751625
Awkward fuel tank bung
Hi The bung has no intention of being pushed into the tank, even with the tip of a screwdriver being used to ease it in. Knowing that I want the bung to stay in once it's in, is there anything that I could use to lube it a little ? Or is there a better way ? Thanks
Posted on: 5/8/2009 12:40 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8751524
RE: trainer without dihedral
[quote]ORIGINAL: alexedit I am not a trainer anymore, but I want a trainer airplane for the project that I am doing [/quote] People at our club took Jumper 25s and turned them into higher powered sports machines, including taking out the dihedral. All they did was use a straight wing brace and fill in the gap with epoxy and micro balloons. You could flatten one out in the same way.
Posted on: 5/3/2009 1:16 PM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8736733
Phoenix Models Tiger 3 ARTF
Anyone know anything about it ? [link]http://www.modelmaniacsonline.co.uk/products.php?CatID=7&SubCatID=247&ProductID=7668&Title=Phoenix+Models+Tiger+3+ARTF&ManCode=A-PH036[/link] [link]http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=28038[/link] Thanks
Posted on: 4/24/2009 9:56 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8711149
RE: GWS torque rods different lengths
The short stiff wire didn't care for being bent twice so I have a dog leg in the long side which makes the holes in the two gromets the same distance from the hinge line but that now leaves one gromet closer to the servo arm than the opposite side. I've tried twisting the aileron wire end to line it back up but it's just too springy to turn and stay where I want it. However, I get the impression that even though the linkages between the torque rods and the servo arms will be slightly different lengths, this doesn't seem to matter. Or am I missing something here ? Thanks
Posted on: 4/3/2009 8:36 AM by Author "netdudeuk"
in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8644429
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