Some unique conversions
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qKg-LPOXIMs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0sCCJFkEbE&feature=player_embedded
Posted on: 6/15/2011 6:18 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10576183

RE: ryobi muffler bolt
[quote]ORIGINAL: michael wood well i found a 12x24 screw its not a cap head screw but it will do i am going to put a split washer on it and lock tight it and hope it wont back out again michael [/quote] Another option if backing out persists: http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm Standard,or vice grip pliers will be fine for your two bolts. Pay particular attention to the wire routing direction. Look around the shop for a six inch piece of soft steel,light gauge,mechanics wire,or whatever small diameter stuff ya got.
Posted on: 5/26/2010 7:29 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9761519

RE: New CDI - opensource project JMJ and Bigboat
There is a very interesting electronic ignition theory thread going on over in the "Gas engines" forum. A couple of you highly technical guys would surely be up to this request for discussion from an extremely competent Ladyflyer... : From post#109 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9713250/mpage_5/tm.htm "With battery/coil ignition circuits there are many elements outside the simple DC resistance of the coil that will affect the actual operating load. Those factors, like the Ohm's law debate are probably beyond the scope of this topic. Perhaps we could start a new thread ? "Current Draw in Pulsed Coils At The Point of Magnetic Saturation" Anyone ? We could discuss how voltage engine speed ,crankshaft dwell angle etc affect the saturation point as well. WOOPS. It seems that thread has been locked down. Maybe this one,if anyone is interested. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9726159/tm.htm
Posted on: 5/11/2010 12:58 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9725879

Electronic ignition.Unlocking it's mysteries,and inner workings.
I see the "Ignition loads current verses input voltage"has been locked down seemingly at the request of the author. Personally,I would have voted that as thread of the month. Mr.Norton was obviously,and understandably frustrated with the way his thread had veered off it's intended simple course.Many thanks to him,and his efforts. However... a "new thread" as was suggested by Ladyflyer in her post#109 would be sweet.There seems to be a population of electronic minded modeler's in here. Partial quote: "With battery/coil ignition circuits there are many elements outside the simple DC resistance of the coil that will affect the actual operating load. Those factors, like the Ohm's law debate are probably beyond the scope of this topic. Perhaps we could start a new thread ?" "Current Draw in Pulsed Coils At The Point of Magnetic Saturation" Anyone ? We could discuss how voltage engine speed ,crankshaft dwell angle etc affect the saturation point as well." I only wish that I could personally make a meaningful contribution. I am fascinated,and eating this stuff up with a spoon.
Posted on: 5/11/2010 12:43 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9726159

RE: A PISTON QUESTION
[quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn How to use a cylinder bore gauge 101 OK, you bought this new fancy tool and you want to put it to good use, right?Measure each piston individually to their respective bore perpendicular to the ring bore with your micrometer, you do have a good set of these right? Good. Each piston manufacturer, and each type; cast, hyperutectic, and forged has a specified location where to measure,and how much piston to cylinder wall clearance you should have, however if you cant find it, measure at the widest location. When you mic the piston and feel comfortable with the ''feeler gauge ''method, lock the micrometer. Now take the dial bore gauge and ''rock'' it in the mic you have locked to come up with the shortest distance. This is your piston diameter. Zero your gauge with the dial and put the gauge back in the mic to double check your reading. Now put your dial bore gauge in the appropriate cylinder that the piston will live in and rock it again to find the shortest distance. The + side will tell you how much clearance there is between the piston and the cylinder wall, if you have negative clearance -, I suggest you go back to your machinist, this time with a baseball bat! You should be OK. Good luck!! Besides checking piston clearance,you can use a bore guage to check cylinders for out of round and taper from bottom to top.These checks help you determine if a used block is reusable.For example,cylinder walls,excessive out of round may indicate a block with a core shift problem. Capt,n [/quote] I thought that writing style looked familiar. Looks pretty close to a post written by another car guy in my home state. (Post #2 in the link.) It almost looks like you have signed at the bottom of your post "Capt,n",seemingly indicating these are your original thoughts,or at least forgot to give credit the actual author. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-do-you-use-cylnder-bore-gauge-71522.html
Posted on: 11/1/2009 10:21 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221459

RE: Engine conversion give away..
[quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn I have a few engines that are partly converted and will give them away. All I ask is for the shipping to be paid...free you pay shipping. I will post photos of them in about 3-4 days. When I post it will be first reply gets first choice. I have to much work to do on my 4 cyc Holt engine & other projects. Look at the link below...you will see the 4 cylinder holt I got to finnish. Capt.n[;)] http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnowjohn/MyHitMissSingleHolt4CylinderEngines?authkey=Gv1sRgCPrVmo-eqsT1bw# [/quote] I'm trying to wrap my brain around this... You seem to be baiting a forum populated with bargain hunters,and motorheads with a promise of "free engines" that they cannot have quite yet. In order to obtain said engine(s)they must "stay tuned" for three or four days,for you to get around to completing post #1 by adding the pictures. ONLY at that time, can the member(s) "lucky enough" to be sitting around at the computer take one (or more?) of your engines/parts for the cost of shipping. Do I have the gist of this game? If I have it all wrong,please correct,and accept my apologies.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 11:48 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184217

RE: Honda GX 35 again
[quote]ORIGINAL: Chris Cobain Thomas, Did you machine your own propeller hub? Now that Carr Precision is out of business, do you have any recommended sources for a complete propeller hub? Thanks - Chris [/quote] I was curious when I read that statement last Friday,so I sent them an e-mail. Seems strange to me that someone connected with selling stuff let this go unchallenged. To: carrprecision@verizon.net Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 1:40 PM Subject: ordering parts Post #13 states you guy's have gone out of the RC engine conversion parts business...True? http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7869275/tm.htm From: "Dave" <carrprecision@verizon.net> Subject: Re: ordering parts Date: Friday, October 9, 2009 5:33:42 PM no we are still making parts and kits for the small string trimmer type engines. thanks dave
Posted on: 10/14/2009 1:46 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9171788

RE: Custom Piston Rings
Mr. Bowman It's nice to see a true artisan posting in the forum. It would be nice to read your thoughts in here more often! Oh,and please don't feed the trolls...[8|]
Posted on: 9/19/2009 8:50 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9108543

RE: Shindaiwa 80
[quote]ORIGINAL: N99JH Come on guys, somebody must know something about this engine? [/quote] Try going right to the source. http://www.rcignitions.com/index.php
Posted on: 9/9/2009 5:33 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9082211

RE: Do dimensional drawings exist for any of these sm. 4stroke engines?
check in here with your "conversion" updates. Nitro
Posted on: 9/4/2009 12:38 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9068655

RE: Do dimensional drawings exist for any of these sm. 4stroke engines?
Quote: "I wish it I could read the text." http://translate.google.com/translate?prev=hp&hl=en&js=y&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rc-network.de%2Fmagazin%2Fartikel_08%2Fart_08-033%2Fart_033-01.html&sl=de&tl=en&history_state0=
Posted on: 8/23/2009 10:29 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9039151

RE: Do dimensional drawings exist for any of these sm. 4stroke engines?
Quote: "No need to reinvent the wheel" That may well be a fact,but this wheel seems a bit shaky,and out of balance, literally... Carr,the big guy Staton,and prolly others,hang complete utility/implement engines high up,cantilevered off to one side of the bike. How would the average plane handle (corrected only for front/rear balance) with a heavy engine mounted on top the left wing 6" or so,outboard of the fuse centerline? flown by the average pilot? There again,if the reason for building/buying is for use as a small motorcycle 95% of the time,then compensating for being off balance with a high center of gravity,may be just fine with the riders who buy the beach bike cruisers shown on Carr's front page. It would be interesting to here what the OP has in mind for his bike. If the Mod's don't mind this type of conversion.
Posted on: 8/23/2009 12:27 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9036979

RE: Do dimensional drawings exist for any of these sm. 4stroke engines?
svejkovat Quote: "What I'm actually trying to accomplish is a true moped" Interesting.We seem to be on the same page,mostly. I've been kicking around light weight engine/drive ideas/partial prototypes for this for sometime. A couple reoccurring themes seem to be apply here. #1 Weight. Many bicyclist (skinny tired 700c size road myself) shutters at any increase in weight.(much like the guy's planes in this forum.)Pedaling a fat tired mountain bike on the road to me, is somewhat equivalent to your pedaling a moped example.(unless your still a youngster.No offence meant,just tying to make the point of this particular road bicyclist. #2 Speed/Power.The "clamp on" 50/80cc Chinese motor forum crowd seem to enjoy this subject in the motorized bicycle forums. Nothing wrong with that,it's just that I've found little conversation for retaining the pedaling/rolling/handling/weight efficiency of a good bicycle.I gather they run the engine 95% of the time(until the Cop's pass by...),making effective pedaling less of a concern. Might as well buy a small 50cc motorcycle as I see it. My state's governor has just signed a bill allowing gas powered bicycles (max 20 mph/ 1 hp...) after the first of the year.I hope folks don't abuse this too much... If you do happen upon applicable threads somewhere, please send me the link through this site's PM system,as I have doubt's, as to how much non-modeling talk the mod's will tolerate in here.
Posted on: 8/22/2009 10:13 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9035502

RE: Finding top dead center and timing engines Video
this for awhile,like they talking about doing over in the "Gas engines" forum. Nitro
Posted on: 6/21/2009 2:10 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8869221

An apology to the forum
Regarding the "reading material thread". I should not have called out this individual. The methods,order,and conclusions of the experiments being carried out are none of my business. I do not fly these giant scale engines. My applications for these little guy's are land based,and human carrying,but applying the same principals of light weight,efficient engines just like you people. I was wrong, and had to get that off my chest. Thanks to the many decent folks, who give freely of there knowledge, while hanging out in this little corner of the web. Wow,that was like takin' a dump. Now,where did I leave my med's...
Posted on: 3/7/2009 12:14 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8552757

RE: Two stroke hop-up reading material
rich: The site with the Jennings material is the result of a Google search.It was also posted here last year in this forum.Contact the site owner. I've owned my copy since the late '70's. It still finds it's way into the "library" from time to time... Ram jet: Jennings pipe formula is getting pretty old in the tooth now. 35+ years... Tons of modern software out there now for manufactures to purchase. All kinds of brand/design comparisons to be found on the boards,mags,etc. Here is an interesting hot rod chainsaw forum... porting,carbs,muffler mod's,etc. http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Posted on: 3/6/2009 6:16 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8549320

Two stroke hop-up reading material
With all the pseudo hop-up analysis,"Mater of fact" statements going on in another thread,I felt the following link should be re-posted.Some of the lurkers among us, may be unsure with some of those claims presented as fact.These folks might like some alternate general high performance/tuning information to apply to there own engines. Here is one book,while somewhat dated,is a pretty good "two stroke" treatise.The late author was mostly held in high regard as a tuner/author. Take a look at the other pdf's on that page too. You'll prolly need a basic Pdf reader to see it.This is the whole book...free of charge http://www.edj.net/2stroke/jennings/ Google books also has a nice "free" on-line selection of reading material on this subject,to gain futher prospective.Some are just snippits,some are whole sections. An example would be: http://books.google.com/books?lr=&num=20&as_brr=3&as_pt=ALLTYPES&q=%22two+stroke%22+hop+up+date%3A1970-2009&btnG=Search+Books
Posted on: 3/5/2009 3:46 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8545703

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
Partial quote: "unfortunately like you say the older engine has the single ring piston which is pretty lousy. In my opinion so far the best set up is to find the older engine and then get the new style two ring piston to put in it." To be fair to this lowly design: (1) What did the end gap of this piston ring measure? ( 2) Was the ring face and sides free of any nicks,or scratches? ( 3) Condition of the bore it was asked to run in? (4) Did you check the ring on a surface plate ? (Glass plate with a new piece of ~ 1000 grit oiled wet/dry) (5) What was the piston ring groove to ring clearance? (6) Is the piston groove completely contamination free?(no burs,nicks,or contamination) Some folks call this "blue printing", measuring all the basic stuff, before messing with the mods. Just an old mechanic wondering.... It would seem unfair to dismiss a design that has proven very effective in minimizing friction in countless high performance applications,due to missed concepts,with such a blanket statement.
Posted on: 3/2/2009 2:02 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8535865

RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)
[quote]ORIGINAL: tkg Swap meet/Ebay time. Evra 190 was sold by Hobby Lobby for a few years. Its a Ryobi 31 with mounting rails cast in to the crankcase. [/quote]
Posted on: 2/17/2009 2:16 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8486982

RE: spark plug compression leak
[quote]ORIGINAL: markaboo929 umm hey i was thinking about this for a bit-HE IS USING A GLOW PLUG ADAPTER!!!!!-so spark plug heat disipation and absorption is kinda null on this discussion. [/quote]
Posted on: 1/3/2009 1:53 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8312170

RE: spark plug compression leak
The heat extraction from the plug does not care if a water jacket is present.The finned thermal mass takes care of that process of heat transfer just fine in the "little" motors.The 911 Porsche did not seem to mind the lack of water either. The body does conduct the heat into the head,just as NGK says it does. The heat conduction path is through the nose and into the metallic plug body. The heat range is determined by the length of that path. Adding "plumbing tape" insulation to that path,just adds another tuning variable.
Posted on: 12/31/2008 7:48 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8303691

RE: spark plug compression leak
I would hope that not too many modelers subscribe to this practice of plumbing tape thread and, seat repairs. Reminds me of auto exhaust repairs with muffler patch,and bailing wire. Take a look at this NGK tutorial. You really should get/make a flat seat style adapter, or have a Buddy add the taper to the seat as was suggested. Partial NGK quote: "The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp?nav=31000&country=US
Posted on: 12/29/2008 10:56 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8296808

RE: GAS/GLOW HOW TO....
Quote: “How much more does the Tartan single weigh over a good OS1.20?� The Super Tartan single as shipped w/ muffler,and prop adapter, comes out to 44oz.(2.75lb.) on a cheapy kitchen spring scale. You'll have to check on the OS weight.
Posted on: 12/18/2008 10:05 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8257822

RE: Homelite 30cc Problem how to fix?
bat. (One) lunger is old time slang for a single cylinder engine.
Posted on: 12/17/2008 9:12 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8256554

RE: GAS/GLOW HOW TO....
The “tips� sheet pictured in post 104,and shipped with my 22cc single years ago, must be for the 44cc twin . 18x10 is Zenoah G-38 territory. From that mfg. specs: �Benchmark prop 18x10 APC 7,300� Wasp,I understand that you have both engines w/ manuals,and know this stuff. Someone else may also have the single w/o manual,trying to spin too much prop like I would have after reading the paperwork received.
Posted on: 12/17/2008 8:53 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8256493

RE: GAS/GLOW HOW TO....
[quote]ORIGINAL: the Wasp EDITED quote ""never prop engine to turn less than 8400,, 18x10 good size prop to start with " OK,, so I have to go down from an 18x10 to get to 8400 Jim [/quote] Edit: I'm now wondering if that "Tip" sheet included with the engine is the correct one for the Tartan single? 18x10 at 8400 seems a bit optimistic to me. Anybody know? From post #104 "Here's the innards,and"Tips"paperwork of a single SuperTartan glow I have in the shop." Please take note,that the included "Tips" sheet,listing the prop size is for the "single" not the twin.
Posted on: 12/17/2008 1:08 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8254551

RE: GAS/GLOW HOW TO....
) of-course this would have to be mixed with no Nitro as this engine was designed not to run Nitro
Posted on: 12/17/2008 12:28 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8253909

RE: think this Sachs can be converted for a plane
[quote]ORIGINAL: the Wasp wow this Sachs must have some power !! [/quote] To cannibalize either would be a shame. The first,I think is a semi-rare British Tyran 125,Similar in quality to DKW’s,Penton’s,and Rickman’s. The “Good Stuff� from the ‘70’s . The second is a Coleman mini cycle with a 2+hp. Sachs 50cc,2-speed auto trans,if I remember right. Had one in a little bitty Arctic-Cat as a kid.Later swapped in a Kaw 90cc ,5 speed rotary valve motor into that one.The "converted" little "Arctic-Kaw"as we called it was a torque monster,it would power wheely just off idle... :-) Bro still has it. Collectors would get a pretty penny for those Tyran,or Coleman examples on the ‘Bay.
Posted on: 12/14/2008 12:52 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8243619

RE: Where To Find Poulan 46cc Engine?
[quote]ORIGINAL: buck1856 Thanks,now thats cool.So i should look for a boring bar that would hold the tool bit in place?I do have a inside boring bar its the one thats a 1/4 of a circle.Ill go se what what the above mentioned shops have. [/quote] Hi,buck For what your doing, there really is little reason to get fancy,or spend cash on a new boring bar. The pic’s are just something off the'net, but do show the idea. Just grab a piece of mild steel bar stock from your scrap bin, turn one end so it will have a little clearance in the bore of your hub,and long enough to reach well past the end of the hub. Making it rather large in dia. will keep the bar nice and stiff. Next, drill a ¼� through hole in the side of this bar, 90 degree’s to the bar center line in your drill press for the cutter bit. Maybe start about ¾ “or so,from the end of the bar.The round tool bit hole will be fine for this little job cutting aluminum. Now drill and tap for a bolt in the end of the bar to hold the bit,maybe ¼-20 or so, this will square up the bit in the round hole as it is tightened. If room is a problem,just scale down the boring bar. Turn/grind, whatever works,the opposite end of the bar to fit in your tool post. Grind your clearance rakes on a short tool 1/4" square bit, and have at it. Practice on a piece of scrap stock with the hub bore size drilled in it first. Once again,no reason to get all fancy,with broaches for keyways unless your doing a pile of them. Good Luck.
Posted on: 12/14/2008 12:00 AM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8243509

RE: Where To Find Poulan 46cc Engine?
[quote]ORIGINAL: buck1856 Thanks av8tor.The only thing is it has the straight crank shaft.I was thinking about doing it like the ryobi 31 and just use a set screw on the side where the keyway would go,and then put the magnet apposite to kind of balance it out a little,then just use the nut to hold it all on..But being anything that close to the center of the crank and light shouldnt cause any imblance that is noticible. Or,would it be better to rethread the crank and then use a nut to hold down the hub in the center like a G62,and use 2 bolts to hold the hub on. Also,how would somone make the square keyway in the hub.What tool do ya use.This engine used the bar stock keyway,1/4x2 inches.[or a little less maybe]. [/quote] "Also,how would somone make the square keyway in the hub.What tool do ya use.This engine used the bar stock keyway,1/4x2 inches.[or a little less maybe]." A cheap way,(free) to add your internal keyway, using your lathe. UNPLUG the lathe…! Lock-out.Remove fuse etc..... Chuck your hub in the 3-jaw. Check run out. LOCK the head stock spindle. Run a boring bar with a 1/4" square tool bit (homemade if needed) in,and out using the carriage hand wheel, adjusting out a just few thousandth at a time,using the cross slide,until you reach the desired depth in your hub. Maybe do a practice"broach"on a some scrap first,just to get the feel for it. Edit to add pics.
Posted on: 12/12/2008 1:10 PM by Author "nitro joe" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8238341