RE: out of the closet....?
Is there a top level electro race, anywhere in the world, that lasts more than 10 minutes?
Posted on: 5/17/2013 5:51 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514725

RE: 1/8 truggy wheels and tires?
[quote]ORIGINAL: poppincoppin what size wheels and tires do the racers use for 1/8 truggy? [/quote] LPR or Proline VTR
Posted on: 9/15/2012 3:16 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229554

RE: Blur engine madness
Rotary carb, not slide type. I would guess the LSN is on the linkage side. The slotted screw in the middle. http://www.shengines.com/spare%20parts/tech%20data/PT0701A.pdf
Posted on: 9/14/2012 10:30 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228457

RE: Since getting into this hobby, whats been the biggest leap forward you have seen in this hobby?
Biggest Jump [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwnSfZyliP4[/youtube]
Posted on: 9/13/2012 5:22 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227752

RE: 2012 ROAR Region 5 1/10th Offroad Championship Columbus Ohio
...
Posted on: 9/13/2012 5:18 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227747

RE: Since getting into this hobby, whats been the biggest leap forward you have seen in this hobby?
[quote]ORIGINAL: On2_n_On4 [quote]ORIGINAL: HerrSavage The Baja was the attention getter.. The Losi 5T though is a whole new ballgame. [/quote] was? still,,,, no other 1:5 scale has the aftermarket support like bajas., and is going to take yearsss to match it. meanwhile new parts and mods are still coming out for bajas, and who knows whats next from HPI. nothing wrong with the losi, but IMO is like comparing apple to oranges [/quote] Around here, people can't sell their Baja's fast enough in order to buy the Losi. Former Baja owners can't believe there is life beyond the ladder frame. Check any Large Scale forum and you'll find that the number of Losi upgrades matches or exceeds those for the Baja. Price, performance, ease of maintenance - Losi wins.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 11:02 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227379

RE: Help: losi 3.4 engine issues
[quote]ORIGINAL: epyoneda Is it normal to engine get harder to turn after cleaning? Thanks [/quote] It is not normal. It is not a good idea to disassemble an engine when it is running well. You are an example of the downside.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 10:54 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227373

RE: Buggy to Truggy conversion
[quote]ORIGINAL: dodge4219 Okay this may be a stupid question. I am just wondering because I haven't heard it addressed specifically, Is a Truggy basically a buggy with wider wheels and tires and a cab-forward bulldog body? I would like to try this conversion if it is that easy. And yes I know about the center differential thing, but don't most buggies have a center diff? In the old days I was able to make my RC10 gold pan into a MT with just a rim/tire change and the body posts and body. Am I missing something? Is the Truggy wheelbase longer? [/quote] Not that familiar with the RC10 gold pan, but wasn't that a 2wd 1/10 scale? A proper truggy is always a 4wd and the majority are 1/8 scale.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 9:39 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225757

RE: Introducing the FlowRam36cc Motor for Losi and Redcat
Looks like a torque master with weak top end.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 2:24 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224126

RE: Question for the Experts...
[quote]ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Can anyone tell me what is the most ideal port timing for an all around strong car engine would be? I'm referring mainly to exhaust timing, but transfer, boost, and crank inlet timing is good to know as well. I've degreed several engines and I've seen these numbers jump all over the place depending on the engine. The stout torque monsters seem to have lower exhaust timing, in the realm of 140-150° with a short blowdown of 10-12°, whereas the higher rpm screamers are up around 160-180° with blowdown timing around 17-19°. blowdown timing. I'm entertaining the idea of finding some better pipes to better suit some of my engines than what I've been using. I'd like to better match the pipe to the engine.. Do any good pipe manufacturers publish any sort of information like the effective RPM range of the pipe (and not just low-mid rpm or mid-high rpm. I'm talking numbers..). Anyone want to share? [/quote] That would be a no.
Posted on: 9/9/2012 7:04 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222639

RE: I bought a Mugen MBX6T
[quote]ORIGINAL: poppincoppin Need some help with truggy Wheels and Tires, I am confused about the sizes - I got these in the pics above but I am not sure of best sizing - I bought what I thought were the right wheels in the dye project, but they are too small - I see sizes like 3.7" - 3.94" - 3.97" - its all a bit confusing. What do the racers use [/quote] Looks like the rims you dyed are Mugen 3.2" rims. They are called standard MAXX size. Once the only truggy rims available, only used by bashers presently. Tire selection is poor for this size. Most truggys run LPR rims which are 3.7" I believe Proline came out with a VTR rim with a size of 4.0"
Posted on: 9/6/2012 9:00 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220301

RE: losi 8t rear diff?
[quote]ORIGINAL: mattsauto hello guys. i am hoping someone might be able to help me out. i was racing on a track i built at my inlaws camp with my losi 8t 2.0 rtr & i started hearing a clicking noise & it started slowing down so i shut it off & inspected it & it appears to be in the rear diff. so i removed the rear diff & it feels like the pinion is slipping on the ring but when i disassembled it the teeth appear to be ok (not stripped or missing any). so do these need to be reshimmed after they wear or just rebuild completely? also what weight oil should i use in rear diff when i reassemble? i am also thinking about getting the smart center & front diffs. what do you guys think about the smart diffs are they worth it? thanks in advance for any input. [/quote] You're lucky the teeth weren't damaged. Yes, they need to be shimmed correctly. Maybe they were too loose from the get go. Smart diffs get popular from time to time, but their not worth the price and not many people use them. They don't work so good on rough tracks and are a pain to setup because of their different operating principals. Just messing around and such, 3k in the rear diff should be fine.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 10:35 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215764

RE: Effect of a Scratch
[quote]ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet Yes they worn the motor out... NO they didnt cause the scratch Here you can see the scratch at 3 gallons when I found it during the rebuild [/quote] Definately a major scratch. No repair for that.
Posted on: 9/2/2012 11:33 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214600

RE: Effect of a Scratch
[quote]ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet I knew he could repinch, did not know he could repair. [/quote] As far as I know, he is the only one that can bring an engine back with sleeve damage. Of course there will be some that are beyond repair. Call him and discuss it.
Posted on: 9/1/2012 8:25 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214063

RE: Effect of a Scratch
[quote]ORIGINAL: llkoolskillet How much effect will a scratch have on a motor? I.E. a scratch on both the piston and sleeve, and a deep one too [/quote] Only a professional can tell for sure. You need to send it to RayARacing. He is the only one who can repair (if possible) a damaged piston and sleeve. http://www.rayaracing.com/
Posted on: 9/1/2012 2:59 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213737

RE: SH .18 stock needle settings
[quote]ORIGINAL: JohnP2 I met someone who has a RedCat Tornado. He is new to "the hobby", and brought it by my house because he could not get it started. Some imortant notes: 1. Car is new. He said he started it once and it "went crazy", meaning he obviously hit is hand on the throttle servo arm and opened it wide up (that's common problem with this design). 2. The engine seems okay. It turns over fine (I was worried about his con rod) - it just won't start. 3. I put the heat gun on it - that allowed it to turn over for a split second, then it dies. 4. The glow plug was fried. A little odd for a new one, but I understand metal shavings during break-in can do this. I put a new glow plug on it - an O.S. #6 - nada. 5. I asked him if he "messed with the needles" and he said he has - quite a bit. Ugh. The LSN looked flush and the HSN looked about 1.5 in ffrom flush. I think this is what it could be,and if not want to at least rule it out. 6. I also noticed the air filter was off. He noted they had been trying to start it with the air filter off to see inside of the carb (go easy - we were all new at one time). I put my Exceed Forza air filter on it. 6. I checked everything else out (prime, carp opening, etc. etc. etc.) My next step is to take the engine apart and check out what's going on - but after I rule out the needle settings. I looked at the engine and saw 18 on one side, and SH on the other so need to know the needle settings for it. Additionally, can anyone think of and issue that would prevent an engine from even starting if it went WOT for a few second on it during its first start.? The inner components felt and sounded okay. I understand he might have lost some performance, but it should at least start. [/quote] Is this a RTR with a pullstart? A troublesome engine with a pullstart is one of the most frustrating situations around. If you have a starterbox, rearrange the pegs and use it. Once all the bugs are found, engine broken in, tuned reasonably well, he can go back to the pullstart.
Posted on: 9/1/2012 8:43 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213507

RE: Cen CT5 Help, will not idle but it starts
[quote]ORIGINAL: jetspeedz Anyone? i can get it to idle now with 1/4 throttle using the recommended settings but that is nothing new. it does drive just not very fast and i have gone through 3 tanks of fuel hoping it is broken in now. Any help is appreciated. [/quote] There are many different opinions on the best break in procedure. This YouTube series has multiple parts. Check them all out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NLWLjNGvW4&feature=relmfu
Posted on: 8/31/2012 7:08 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213120

RE: What would you do?
[quote]ORIGINAL: silverman1 What do you think, will i lose my ass??[:(] [:(][:(] [/quote] You'll still have some left, just not much.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 8:40 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211090

RE: Losi shock towers
[quote]ORIGINAL: bcox13 Will the 8ight T 2.0 shock towers mount on Eight T 1.0? I want to put the 2.0 body on it but it hits the shocks in the front. [/quote] Not sure if this is true, but this is what one person posted about it. "The 2.0 body on a 1.0 chassis will make the wing just about useless (it will sit at or slightly below the body itself). If you look at a 1.0 body, it has raised points where the rear body posts come through. This puts the body itself down low enough to allow airflow to the wing. The 2.0 body doesn't have these raised areas because the rear body posts are already lower. It would be like having a rear spoiler on a (real) car's bumper instead of the trunk."<! google_ad_section_end > <! / message ><! sig >
Posted on: 8/29/2012 11:20 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210452

RE: Painted/Trimmed My First Body
[quote]ORIGINAL: TheKennyKiller +1 I've had problems using those Dremel sanding attachments, they work but you need to have a steady hand and be careful not to press too hard. [/quote] I believe most Dremel tools have a variable speed control. Use the speed which suits you. In some cases, I have used the following bits.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 4:34 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208225

RE: Tuning nitro advice...
[quote]ORIGINAL: ckmerc My thread got hijacked and this question got lost in the responses........ Any help would be appreciated.....thx I have recently revised my nitro 1/8 ofna with a .21 force 3.5cc engine. Now, I just replaced the fuel, fuel line, Onboard Glow Plug Drivers! Click Here. glow plug and that is it after 3 yrs of not touching it. How do I know what to tune on the engine? It runs good....I believe.... once I start it and gradually give her gas to full speed (while holding it).....it will get up to full speed and then I can stop it....set it down and it will run like a champ. Now..I am a novice with tuning.... I have not tuned it in 10 yrs. It seems to run fine..but what would I look for in running quality and at what point do I tune it? I know once I start up the engine and if I were to give it full gas right away....it would bog down and quick...that is why I hold the bottom and gradually work up the throttle to full speed upon initial start up... advice appreciated as always. Chuck http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkzpdZGGXPM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWvlEAWVBEM&playnext=1&list=PLE1B23EE4D7196079&feature=results_main (in reply to HerrSavage) [/quote]
Posted on: 8/27/2012 2:18 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208077

RE: Re entrants view of nitro vs electric
[quote]ORIGINAL: Foxy If the sound and smell is worth all that to you, to still have less performance, then more power to ya (or rather less, cos a nitro engine only makes 3hp compared to 6hp from my 1515 and triple the torque). I tell ya, when I put the 6S truggy down at the bash spot, the 'civilians' aren't watching the nitros any more. ;) Yeh, boring. lololol. [/quote] I sure would like to see some documentation on that 6 hp figure. For $300 I'm sure it's strong, but not that strong. Civilians at a bash spot, what do they know.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 2:00 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208051

RE: Painted/Trimmed My First Body
[quote]ORIGINAL: jbondbmw The only part was kind of a PITA is doing the wheel aches. I used the following kit for trimming: [IMG}http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/DUBC2331-GP.jpg[/IMG] http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/2331-Body-ReamerScissors-Curved-Straight Does anyone have a better tool for doing wheel aches? [/quote] Rough trim with Lexan cutter and finish with Dremel.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 11:54 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207886

RE: Break-in Intervals
Playing the Devil's advocate. If the piston is kept at TDC during cool down, how can anything get distorted? Although the piston and sleeve would tend to tightly bind together, they would each form a perfect fit.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 7:59 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207097

RE: I bought a Mugen MBX6T
[quote]ORIGINAL: poppincoppin so no Mugen MBX6T truggy owners? [/quote] Most bashers use older models (cheaper) and most racers are on other forums.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 4:29 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206252

RE: Racers v. Bashers (the vehicles not the drivers)
[quote]ORIGINAL: HerrSavage Your question is biased by the fact that racing is just the big fad at the moment, and bashing isn't as popular as it was 5-8 years ago. Racing is a fad - what you see now is a high tide of popularity, but it too will ebb. It's only part of RC. If it's your thing, fine. But it's not the only thing. [/quote] Racing and bashing supply different feedback. They each have their place. Each also draws on a different mindset. If you read/ follow and believe BigSquidRC ( by bashers/for bashers), bashing is 80 - 90% of the RC industry and quite large. Organized racing will always be around in one form or another. Could be onroad, offroad, electric, nitro.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 4:26 AM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206247

RE: Recommended Servo Speed for 1/8 Buggy
[quote]ORIGINAL: Haddi Taha I am going to get the 1256tg, has tonnes of torque, reasonable speed and by the looks of it, I don't need a BEC (maybe someone can confirm) I will be using it with a 150a hobbywing xerun esc which has according to the website, BEC: 5.75V/3A (Switch mode built-in BEC). [/quote] Savox servos are power hungry. Good luck. If the servo causes problems, get a 5 or 10 amp external BEC. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1574_199/products_id/18210/n/Castle-Creations-10-Amp-Adjustable-BEC?utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product-Feeds&source=google_ext
Posted on: 8/25/2012 6:26 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205967

RE: 1/8 ofna buggy fuel filter - which one to get?
[quote]ORIGINAL: yakfish It really doesn't matter all they are is just a small screen the fuel flows thru. [/quote] The better filters use a bronze filter element. Not all filters are created equal.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 5:39 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205943

RE: Break-in Intervals
[quote]ORIGINAL: purenitro33 You need at least a temperature of 350*C to properly heat treat silicon impregnated aluminum alloy, that's 662*F. [/quote] Yes, but heat cycling (not heat treatment) is intended to relieve manufactoring stress.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 2:40 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203779

RE: HSN came out of carb: IMPORTANT FOLLOW-UP
[quote]ORIGINAL: JohnP2 NOTE: If anyone can find a complete Losi 3.4 carb on eBay - please let me know. Thanks! I do plan on contacting Horizon tomorrow and see if they want to spend 40 bucks to keep a customer. [/quote] Are you going to tell them the problem is due to a manufactoring error or user error? The first might be a tough sell due to the fact that you ran the vehicle for some time.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 7:24 PM by Author "nitroexpress" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201571