RE: durable 1/10 touring car?
given the choices the OP has availible to him, Id choose the TT01. If redcat were an option, Id go with that. The plastics are very flexable and dont break easy on the lightning epx. stock electronics are not great, but same is true of the tt-01 that costs $100 more. Id go shaft drive for a rental car. belts are better for racing, but all it takes is one person hitting the wall with the throttle wide open to snap a belt. and even if the customers were resonable in how they drive them, belts still require adjustments overtime. You dont want to have to work on every rental car just making adjustments. shaft drive for sure. I wouldnt touch the e10 with a 10 foot pole. I had one and felt it was a very poor example of a hobbygrade car. plastics felt cheap, motor mount was a piece of crap, center shaft was plastic (really, why? they should be alloy IMO) I didnt like anything about that chassis.
Posted on: 5/22/2013 8:06 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519211

RE: Name this truck!@@!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Eman77 [quote]ORIGINAL: Joshsubmec I was sure it was the t-egg until I saw a pic of the bottom of the chassis [:@] [/quote] For shame people. [:D] I'm guessing the tires threw everyone off. T-Egg chassis pics for reference: [/quote] since when is the CC-01 called a T-Egg? And why...lol? even if the chassis aint a tamiya, the electronics in it are almost worth the price.
Posted on: 5/22/2013 8:00 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519199

RE: NEW RadCat Racing Earthquake 3.5 engine probem
click sound is most likely the piston going from TDC to back down again. at that point the piston contacts the cylinder wall and begins to suck in air. There should be a bit of resistance at TDC when turning it by hand.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 4:04 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518628

RE: Motor / Differential problem?
[quote]ORIGINAL: b_huck It's a brushed motor, usually 15T, no less. I've tried different brands, but they all do the same thing. One or two runs and they are gone. Usually drive on dirt with a little grass and pavement thrown in. Regular six cell battery packs. The gearing depends on the motor, can't remember off hand, but it still has the stock slipper, the old one with the little brownish pegs. I still have the part of the manual telling me which pinions to use for each motor, and that's what I have been going by. The motors have never seemed too hot, not too hot to touch anyway. [/quote] if running a 15t motor...you will need a pinion gear around 12-13 teeth (assuming you have the stock spur gear) My thinking is you are overgeared and overheating the motors. When I 1st started running 15t motors on my old rustler and stampede I kept burning up motors. I was using the stock 19 or 21t pinion gears. but you need a gear 2-3 teeth smaller than the turn rating on the motor. Gear down, and the motor should last longer.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 4:02 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518625

RE: RC Projects RC10 Extended Chassis & Body?
i extended a traxxas stampede chassis by 8 inches once....but i topped it off with a 1/5 scale truck body:)
Posted on: 5/21/2013 3:58 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518619

RE: sh .28 help
[quote]ORIGINAL: Shady9503 it has no trouble idling at all it appears to run alright and then stalls. So it might just be tuning then? because ive been in this hobby for about 3 years nothing big but ive dealt with the .18 in the tornado and the .21 in the earthquake tuning was easy enough but i guess this engine is just a beast lol anyway to be honest the smoke trail is a little big its very noticable if tuning is my issue then i'll have to keep leaning her out and see what happens :P and when i ran it today she cut out at about 170F after a 4-8 second WOT run and once it cut i could only get it to start if i opened the throttle up a bit And yes i've leaned out the low speed needle because once she started and i went to hit the throttle it would cut the second i twitched on it lol [/quote] if it stalls when you apply throttle, then its a High speed needle issue...
Posted on: 5/21/2013 1:33 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518498

RE: Motor / Differential problem?
[quote]ORIGINAL: b_huck My nephew has been having a problem with his old Rustler. Motors keep going out on him. I broke the motors in, so I know that is not the issue. He doesn't run it very hard, few real quick starts, stops. The differential on the truck seems to be out of whack too. If you spin either rear tire, they both will continue spinning (different directions) for a while. It's like it's just real loose in there. I took it to my LHS and the guy said it was fine but it doesn't seem right to me. I've never seen wheels spin so freely on a rear end before. What could the problem be? [/quote] diff sounds right to me. if you spin one wheel, the other should spin in the opposite direction. thats a typical "open" gear diff. if the diff was locked or was a ball diff, then both wheels would spin the same direction when you turn one of them. If you hold one tire and spin the other by hand, that should cause the motor to turn. What ESC? What motor? What battery? What size pinion gear? Does he drive in grass alot?
Posted on: 5/21/2013 1:30 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518493

RE: sh .28 help
i agree with foxy only other thought i had is the glow plug and/or glow plug washer is not tight. would allow it to start up easy but not have enough compression to run properly. I know with some nitro motors that washer is actually not flat, but flared a touch. installed backwards it will not provide the proper seal. So make sure the glow plug is in tight and the washer is at least present.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 12:38 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518445

RE: Name this truck!@@!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Ern2428  Worth grabbing for $120? [/quote] if it comes as shown in pic than yes. ESC/motor/servo alone are worth $80-$100. I tried a google search of that image, as well as searching threw images of "rc rally chassis" to no avail. But even if the chassis turns out to be a off brand rc, it looks clean and the electronics alone are worth close to the price.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 6:54 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518099

RE: NEW RadCat Racing Earthquake 3.5 engine probem
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dads like rc too [quote]ORIGINAL: flameash Thanks a lot for the reply. No, I don't have a temp gun. I am on the budget kind of, so all necessary gear I was planning to buy within next few weeks. I tried to adjust HSN and idle but no luck there. I'll try your suggestions and see how it goes but if nothing you suggested works do you think I should contact Red Cat support and try to exchange the engine? This is just my luck... lol... most of the time if I buy/get something new there is always something wrong. I would hope just once things will go smoothly. Since I am a newbie I would like to know from somebody's personal experience, is there a big difference between 1 speed and 2 speed nitro car/truck? I would like to know as much as possible about R/C. I am not planning on racing on the track or something, at least not until I learn how to handle R/C nitro better. [/quote] Make sure your comfortable with continuing before you break something. The break in process can be very simple or very complicated if you've never done it. Watch the videos and become familiar with the process. Ask any questions here and hopefully you'll get the answers you need. The forum can be a good problem solver. As you've already thought of, a flooded engine can either be tough to turn over with the pull start or almost impossible. If your sure it's not flooded you might just have a very tight sleave. It's common to happen. Many people suggest using a hair dryer to heat the head enough to make it easier to pull. I've had very tight engines before and have been able to loosen the glow plug just enough so that the compression is less, then once it fires up you can tighten it back up. Sputtering and eradict idle is common with an overly rich engine during break in, I wouldn't worry about it right now. [b]Also, when you shut it down, you should turn the flywheel and get your piston back down to the bottom of its stroke to keep the sleave from contracting on it while it's cooling down.[/b][/quote] Im thinking it was left at top dead center after the 1st run. Thats probly why it was soo hard to get turned over when he went to start it again for tank #2. Im betting it needs the needles tuned. I HATE breaking in a motor. Ive done it more than once and it still never goes smoothly! That said, if the time is taken to do it right the result is a motor that runs strong and is easy to tune.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 9:06 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517843

RE: Duratrax VW Bug upgrades
[quote]ORIGINAL: Joshsubmec  Hi all, Just bought a duratrax VW Bug from a guy here on rcuniverse. Hopefully be her by the end of the week. It is a roller so no electrics but the guy put some traxxas slash suspension on it. I got some 1.9 inch paddles tires and 1.9 inch Mohawks that I will be trimming to fit on the stock rims. I also have a waterproof vxl3s system coming Wednesday that I plan to throw in it.<img src=''http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/biggrin.gif'' alt='''' />Any input on some more upgrades would be great thanks..I will post pics of what it looks like when I get everything here. [/quote] cant recall if that version chassis is brushless ready. Might want to double check that. As I recall, its basically an evader DT chassis. The guy you bought it from get a body from Redcat (I used to sell those on ebay) You will want to line the inside of the body with gorilla tape or shoe goo & drywall patch. Its made of PVC and not lexan, so its not super tough. Fine for a brushed model, but brushless means higher speeds and harder hits. Lining the inside of the body will keep it from cracking...especailly around the body posts. You already plan on replacing the tires, which look cool but are very tough compound and get VERY little traction (Ive owned the DT before) Id look into upgrade bumpers or chassis plated. My DT I made brushless and broke part of the trans mount on a jump. Cant thing of much else than that. the evader chassis and even the DT version have been around for some time. Plenty of hop-up parts availilble if you want to put some money into it. Otherwise, Id personally get a mild Ezrun brushless system. The VXL esc has no adjustabiltity. A ESC with adjustable brakes and punch control will make the truck easier to drive with the extra power and reduce the beating on the drivetrain as well. That said, the VXL system will work just fine.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 9:04 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517838

RE: Name this truck!@@!
tamiya is my guess as well. kinda looks like one of the newer rally chassis I saw recently.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 8:57 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517830

RE: NEW RadCat Racing Earthquake 3.5 engine probem
[quote]ORIGINAL: flameash Thanks a lot for the reply. No, I don't have a temp gun. I am on the budget kind of, so all necessary gear I was planning to buy within next few weeks. I tried to adjust HSN and idle but no luck there. I'll try your suggestions and see how it goes but if nothing you suggested works do you think I should contact Red Cat support and try to exchange the engine? This is just my luck... lol... most of the time if I buy/get something new there is always something wrong. I would hope just once things will go smoothly. Since I am a newbie I would like to know from somebody's personal experience, is there a big difference between 1 speed and 2 speed nitro car/truck? I would like to know as much as possible about R/C. I am not planning on racing on the track or something, at least not until I learn how to handle R/C nitro better. [/quote] speaking in general terms, 1 speed is more durable and thus better for bashing while 2 speed allows for faster accelleration without sacraficing top speed. things to try test your glow plug. put it in the warmer and if you see the coil glow red then it should be good to use. see if fuel comes out the muffler. generally this means running rich, but it will also mean in your case that the motor has suction and is pulling fuel trhw it. And if its pulling fuel and not starting, then its more likely a bad needle setting/glow plug or something along those lines. I assume when you try to start the motor that you have the radio/truck turned on and the throttle setting at idle? (only ask cuase i have tried to start one with radio off and throttle was at 50% and it would not start that way) also, what fuel are you using? brand and nitro content?
Posted on: 5/20/2013 7:40 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517754

RE: NEW RadCat Racing Earthquake 3.5 engine probem
breakin is the biggest PITA ever...I hate doing it. Motor is hard to turn over when motor is new. That said, your issue does kinda sound like could have it too hot when you ran the first tank. Do you have a temp gun, and did you read the temps during the 1st tank? you may need to lean out the high speed needle some. It may be flooding the motor on the 1st pull every time you try to start. After each tank run, you have to lean out the high speed needle some anyway...thats how you slowly build up the engine temps and "seat" the piston to the cylinder wall. the engine is warrentied...but would only cover very obvious damage (crankshaft broken, blown bearing ect) Beyond that, they do have a lifetime engine exchange policy. you send in the old, and get a new one below retail cost. But generally speaking, if a nitro motor turns over and clearly sucks in fuel then it is a viable engine.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 1:49 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517430

RE: First post!! Traxxas rustler help!
hobbywing ezrun 60amp ESC with 3300kv motor $100ish flysky 2.4ghz radio $25 skyfly or gens ace 2s 7.4v lipo 5000mah $25 Thunder AC6 lipo/nimh battery charger $50 1st one can be found on ebay or hobbypartz.com. other 3 I would get from hobbypartz.com That setup will allow for 40mph in a rustler and runtimes around 25-30 minutes. That charger will charge a 2s 5000mah lipo in 1 hour.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 8:12 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517076

RE: Cheap 4WD off Roader for bashing?
they havent been out long, but the ECX 1/8 brushless buggy looks decent. Would have to do some looking for review videos...but their 1/10's are good value and plenty durable.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 5:14 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516461

RE: Traxxas 1/16 rally or Vaterra 1/14 Kemora?
[quote]ORIGINAL: 5lagd  <span style=''background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);''>Hey all, I'm looking at both cars above.  I know Jang from URC wasn't too happy with the 1/16 Rally, but I haven't heard anything on the vaterra 1/14. What are your thoughts? Looking for light offload and street driving.  <span style=''background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);''>Thx [/quote] if it were my money, I would chance going with the vetarra. sure, parts support and upgrade parts are slow coming, but its a more standard 4wd onroad layout. IMO, it looks better. the scale driver is a nice touch. seen on ebay NIP for $250 shipped. think thats less than the traxxas. BTW, how do you like your atomik barbwire? pretty sure I will be getting one in a few weeks, looks like a heck of a boat for the money.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 7:18 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515581

RE: Help needed with four-wheel steer
your rear servo's link needs to be longer....so that the servo horn is straight up when the wheels are centered. that way the left/right action will be the same as on the front. the front's servo link allows the horn to be straight down with the wheels centered. the rear should be the complete opposite. If you lengthen the rear's link so that the servo horn is straight up with wheels centered then it will steer much better. for the lipo, you could buy a pair of much smaller packs, wire them in perallel and mount one on each servo. also, I dont know how much your driveshafts could be lengthened....but if the lower and upper lenghts were lengthened it would lengthen the wheel base and lower the center of gravity alot. Never had one of those trucks, but that stance wont work very well for crawling.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 11:49 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515242

RE: durable 1/10 touring car?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ToraKitsu [quote]ORIGINAL: itsfishi I wish it was that easy, I should explain a little more. im starting an indoor race/fun rc night at a local indoor sports centre. approx. 35m x35 metres area with elevated driving area the surface is very short synthetic grass like carpet almost. im looking to rent 10 or so cars and want a durable car to do this with, but obviously the better they perform the more fun for all yeah the tt01 are very simplistic but from what I can gather rather durable, are the zeros as durable if so that would be an easy choice but im guessing they would break parts a lot more, but I just don't know as I have not owned either. just for background I currently have mini revos that I do kids bday parties and fairs etc with. check rcracedays.com.au they are pretty durable with rpm upgrades and other things but still takes a lot of maintenance. just trying to find the best bang for buck to give people the best rc experience without charging an arm and a leg. cheers for the help mark [/quote] Then stick with the Sakura. While both the Zero and TT01 will have certain amount of durability, the sakura will cost you less to repair. The TT01 has been around a while, and is Tamiya's lower-end standard, but they ask too much for their replacement parts, in comparison to 3Racing. I'm looking at the belt vs. shaft argument. While shaft has it's attractions, belt drive is more efficient, quieter, and doesn't wear out, like bevel gears in the shaft system will.If the surface is relatively clean, (as you say, carpet), then the belt drive Sakura would be a great choice. Keeping stock on parts for replacement will be less of an impact on the profit margin, also. :)I'd still go Sakura. [/quote] IMO shaft drive is more efficient and wont wear out easy. Belts stretch, need adjustements over time. bevel gears hold up very well. I agree that going with a model that has low cost replacemetn parts makes sense.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 11:59 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514425

RE: Vaterra On-Road 1/10
plastic motor mount can be OK. jsut depends if there is sufficiant support/bracing. Metal is better...not just cause its stronger but because it also helps take away some heat. I loke the looks of the offroaders better. Dont see myself buying any vaterra soon tho. Prices seem a bit high for what you get right now.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 7:19 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514135

RE: esc burned?
[quote]ORIGINAL: shemesh great, now it is becoming a list and what about <a href=''http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?whl=XX&idCategory=418&v=&sortlist=P&LiPoConfig=&CatSortOrder=asc''>any of those? (up to the price of $30) [/quote] only one of those is for brushed motors, it was 9.99...but is out of stock. Rest are for brushless motors. The turnigy 60a V2 I have had. for $30 its a good brushless ESC. combine it with a cheap 3300kv brushless motor and thats a low priced brushless combo. here is basically the same as stock, $15 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/HSP-03018-320A-Bidirectional-BRUSHED-ESC-Brush-Speed-Controller-RC-1-10th-Car-/180905445474?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item2a1ece0862 xl5 for $37: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-XL-5-LVD-Waterproof-Speed-Control-ESC-XL5-Slash-Rustler-Stampede-Raptor-/321125119950?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item4ac48c77ce tazer 15t for $30: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DYNAMITE-Tazer-15T-Forward-Reverse-Electronic-Speed-Control-Fast-USA-Ship-/111072630776?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item19dc71d7f8
Posted on: 5/17/2013 5:18 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514031

RE: durable 1/10 touring car?
the tamiya TL-01 is just as tough as the TT-01 not sure which is more $ can you get redcats there? Redcat lightning epx is durable. Over here they are as low as $130 shipped RTR/battery. Ive had the brushless epx pro version. even tho its much faster, I rarely broke parts. plastic parts have alot of flex and give to them. even RTR, they are pretty cheap(compared to tamiyas). Stock nimh batteries are not that great (short runtimes) and the stock ESC/motor are very basic. Tho, not much more basic than what comes in a TT-01. There is a version with a basic touring car body, and a version with a nascar looking body. If I was gonna do what you are going, Id get the lighting. low cost of buying the models themselves leaves more money for spare parts / batteries ect.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 5:08 AM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514021

RE: esc burned?
[quote]ORIGINAL: shemesh ok, i'll look for them. what would be next in the (esc) list? a cheaper esc. [/quote] um, maybe the tazer 15t? a duratrax sprint esc would work. the tazer, xl-5 or losi 12t are much more worth the money IMO...but the sprint is still a step above the stock one. the others would only cost alittle more and are several steps above the stock esc.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 7:38 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513795

RE: AE SC10 TIRES????
i have proline calibers on mine. they work well.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 7:11 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513772

RE: Is a heavily modified 2wd Slash competitive?
my 1st time racing I was beating brushles slash's, sc10s, blitz, ect wtih my BRUSHED sc10. Why? driver skill. Not that I am skilled, but I just ran smoother and crashed less than the other guys. Point being, equipment does not matter as much as skill. Keeping calm and not over driving the truck is harder to do than you would think. As soon as you start trying to race the guys next to you instead of running your good clean line...you start sucking. I dont see any reason a modified LCG slash cant do well. I still prefer a truck with a ball diff. at my track, its a losi-durango war. top racers are split between those two brands.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 7:10 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513771

RE: esc burned?
[quote]ORIGINAL: shemesh so... if i want to use a nimh battery... which esc should i look for? [/quote] if you wanna stick with a brushes setup...Id look for a used traxxas XL-5 or Losi 12t esc. Either can be found used on ebay for around $25-$40 shipped.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 5:28 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512619

RE: Help needed with four-wheel steer
sounds like the front/rear steering is not aligned. since you are running both servos off 1 channel, you cant really trim the steering. Both the front and the rear must be completely straight when you put the servo horns on the servos (and the radio will need to be on with the steering trim centered) Both steering links will need to be the same length. A fancy way to do it is buy the radio/rx for the redcat rs10 crawler. it combines the 1st and 3rd channels to give you two types of 4 wheel steering...but also allows the front and rear servos to be trimmed independant of eachother. The radio has a button that switches the steering function between front only/ crab(both turn the same way)/ tight turn(turn opposite way as yours do now)/ rear only. The computer in the radio does the servo mixing for you. Its a pretty cool radio. When I was selling redcat stuff on ebay I sold many of the radios. Most radios that could do that kinda stuff cost Hundreds of dollars. the rs10 radio was around $85 shipped. its 2.4. But you can get yours trimmed by re-centering both servo horns with the front/rear wheels both perfectly straight and the steering trim center and the steering links the same length.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 5:27 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512618

RE: ofna hyper 10tt, i think i did good
well the ofna arrived today sadly, it cannot be driven as the pinion gear is chewed to crap. and naturally, the grub screw is stripped out[:@] will have to break out some tools to get the gear off. might have to wait for a new gear to ship as I dont think I have one on hand that will fit. The truggy is "well used". Some hub bearings might need to be replaced. But, I paid $190 shipped for it. Im keeping the 2s lipo that it came with, but already sold the onyx 235 charger for $50. So at this point it cost me $160 RTR with a lipo.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 5:12 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512609

RE: Custom Low-Rider Build
I think wood could be made to look like a scale chassis...and I think it could be made strong enough for for the conditions...IE 15mph and smooth pavement. And so what if hunter doesnt complete every idea. Some custom projects just dont come to completion. Its easy for ones Ideas to exceed the skills or tools availible. Doesnt hurt to discuss the ideas. IMO, the hobby has too many RTR's and not enough custom work. RTR's are good and do serve a purpose...but to many people think that there slash or scx10 with a bunch of aftermarket parts is "custom". Its nice, but not on the same level as a complete custom project.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 3:00 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232761

RE: Custom Low-Rider Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: jayjay283 Braze weld check out this link. Also maybe a low kv outrunner then no need for tranny [link]http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31528[/link] [/quote] AH, I like the outrunner idea!
Posted on: 9/18/2012 2:54 PM by Author "nitrosportsandrunner" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232755