RE: DA50: web carb but dry plug?
thanks all for addition inputs. They are all good. The way the gas is coming out of the back of the carb has been consistent with the original carb, and the spare carb that are thoroughly cleaned up: about a 10 flips after the gas is seen sucking into the carb. at this point of time, if I touch the choke plate, I can feel the presence of gas. More than once when it gets to this state, I opened up both the pumping and metering side of the carb and both chambers are full of gas. I figured the gas on the choke plate should pass through the low and/or high passages, enter the barrel, and "magically" blocked by the reed value. It has no plate to go except from the choke plate. Is there a particular reason a reed value can become stick? the four blades were cleaned good. What makes the blades sticky? Is there a way to test this out? Note that low compression could make reed value mal-functioning.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:01 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205639

RE: DA50: web carb but dry plug?
[quote]ORIGINAL: pe reivers Are you sure you have the carb put back together in the right sequence? Pump flapper next to carb body, then the gasket. Regulating membrane hooked up (if there is a forked fulcrum lever). Metal disk on the wet side (inside). Gasket between carb body and membrane. Pressure test for pop-off pressure? Does the carb hold pressure and drop pressure if you slightly blow on the vent hole? PS Tighten the carb covers only lightly! Heavy torque will distort the flapper and membrane. [/quote] Thanks. Yes. both flapper and the membrane are installed correctly. Have been doing it for quit many times. Let me check the pop-off pressure via the blow method. In yesterday's experiment, I slightly bent the level and tried two different setups in relation to the standard reference point shown through the Walbro tool: the lean setup (the two tips of the level is bent toward the carb body), and the super rich setup (the two tips bent against the body and pass the standard point). The lean setup makes it very hard for fuel to suck to the carb. The other is just the opposite. I assume the super rich setup reduces the pop-up pressure? The four blades on the reed are held in place via a hard rubber thingy, and the vacuum required for them to bend (thus open the valve) is somehow determined by that piece of rubber. Is there a sequence to put these blades together? I recall each blade can be flipped 180 degree. The reed is put back such that the "pyramid" top side is facing the crank case.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 2:20 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200846

RE: DA50: web carb but dry plug?
Tried both adjusting the pop-pressure and throttling back suggestions this evening. No visible improvement.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 10:33 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197366

RE: DA50: web carb but dry plug?
Well, that is a very good question. The carb is a spared one and was cleaned up a couple of days back really good. The fuel passages should be fine as they are cleaned after both welch plugs are removed. New plugs are installed afterwards.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 9:52 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195729

RE: DA50: web carb but dry plug?
yes, the choke plate is fully closed and the throttle is fully open (verified visually).
Posted on: 10/23/2009 12:13 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195127

DA50: web carb but dry plug?
I was puzzled by the DA50 as it could not start at all. This happened today. On close look, I found that the spark plug is completely dry, regardless of the # of flips on the prop. The carb sucks the gas to the carb and gas slowly comes out of the back of the carb through the choke plate, after maybe 10 flips. The engine has reasonably good compression, the throttle is at full RPM, and choke is on. Some reasons I can think of: bad reed valve compression too low Any other possibilities?
Posted on: 10/22/2009 9:17 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194661

RE: Gasket sealant for gas engines
Thanks! I'll try some of these and report back.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 9:08 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194641

RE: Super Tigre prices appear to be heading up
I tried one ST .46 8 years ago. Horrible experience: lots of dead stick, poor middle range etc. The copy I purchased from local HS was made in Italy. Not sure if I want to buy another copy. Price hike is not limiting to ST engines. Look at the price of an OS F plug. Almost worth half gallon of 10% fuel.
Posted on: 10/21/2009 6:15 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9191606

RE: New 50CC Gasoline Engine from O.S. !!
[quote]ORIGINAL: da Rock For those who don't know it, the Tower prices being discussed aren't actually what most sensible people pay. Right now, today, you'd actually pay $640 for the sucker, not the $700 being bashed. That is, if you took advantage of one of Tower's discount coupons. It's pretty hard not to know about those if you've ever bought from Tower. They really help out on the big buck items. Tower knows that most intelligent buyers are going to use one of the many, many, many discount coupons when buying, so their ''price'' is set accordingly. And if you got any brains at all........ [;)] you can get free shipping. That's for those who live in the US, that is. And of course, Tower sells more to us, so the pricing would consider that. But for most, it'd be $640. You know, $640 sound a fair bit different than $700, don't it now. [/quote] what is the advantage to buy the OS gas at $640? The other choices are DL55, DA50, etc.
Posted on: 10/20/2009 9:18 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189443

RE: Blinky Balancer adaptor
may try radicalRC
Posted on: 10/20/2009 8:53 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189371

RE: Carburetor fuel barb extension!
Make sure the carb is free of gas and the diaphragms and gaskets are removed while soldering.
Posted on: 10/20/2009 8:52 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189366

RE: Gasket sealant for gas engines
Do you reuse gasket after a carb cleanup? Seems the sealant can help with uneven surfaces seen on pressed gaskets. Does Permatex Anerobic gasket sealer help tear the paper gasket easily?
Posted on: 10/20/2009 8:45 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189352

RE: Gasket sealant for gas engines
Thx. I'll check it out. I noticed the kind of sealer DA is using is pretty nice: very thin, easy to remove/clean. Anybody knows what stuff it is?
Posted on: 10/19/2009 11:36 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9187027

Gasket sealant for gas engines
I am looking for something that seals, and can be applied and cleaned up quite easily. So far I tried Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant. That stuff is quite strong, a little bit difficult to apply, and can leave hard-to-remove black gums on the surface of carb and gaskets. Any suggestions? Thx
Posted on: 10/19/2009 9:05 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186568

RE: Dual A123 battey though diode voltage drop?
agree. The dual 1100 A123 configuration without a share device works for me since VPX 1100 came out. It is sad that they can not be found easily on market now.
Posted on: 10/16/2009 9:19 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179181

RE: 110s Top End issues
Could be the front bearing rubber seal is bad.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 11:20 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9176942

RE: NEW DLE30!
[quote]ORIGINAL: craigteffe [quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn UP-Date...I am on about heat cycle 5, and it seems to be smoothing out already. Instant throttle up. I will tack it when my friend gets here with a tack! By ear its sounds very good. I think this engine/carb is sensitive too fuel tank position. When I place this engine on a plane...the tank will need to be right on. Now...back outside...do another heat cycle. It cools down fast ...it is cool here today! Capt,n [&:] BRrr [/quote] The way these carbs are made it should not matter where the tanks is at unless the preasure of the tank exceeds the the preasure of the main needle spring (POP OFF PREASURE). And no way its going to do that stock, I have checked the preasure and they are way above 25PSI. I think its either the engine needs more break in time or the design of the reed block area is allowing fuel to puddle in there at one attitude and when you turn it back it floods the engine. Jody do you have a DL 30 that you could test this issue with it dying at idle or 2 clicks above and see what you think? [/quote] If the pop-off pressure is way above 25psi, there is something wrong with the carb. Check out this url http://www.geocities.com/farellus/idle_adaptation.html. I quote a couple of paras here. You "Pop-off pressure calibration: Pop-off is the pressure at which the Inlet Valve 'pops' open on demand and allows fuel to travel toward the needle jets. It is important to understand the difference between the measured pop-off pressure during a bench test and the actual functional pop-off pressure of a running engine; In a running engine, the pop-off pressure will happen on demand and it depends on various dynamic factors not pressent during a simple bench test. Factors such as fuel demand and atmospheric pressure determine the actual pop-off pressure in a running engine. The one thing we must do regarding setting the pop-off pressure, is setting the correct and critical Metering Lever height. Since we are pressure-testing the carb while subjected to an abnormal (non-running) situation, the measured pop-off pressure will not be the same as in a running engine, but this test can be used for diagnostic purposes: For example, if the pop-off pressure during the bench test happens at 30 PSI or more, it is too high, and it is indicative of sticky diaphragm flap valves or a sticky Inlet Valve seat. If you wish to actually pressure-test a Walbro carburetor, prime it as usual and then simply remove the fuel supply line and attach the Walbro pressure tester onto its fuel inlet fitting. [Walbro’s pressure tester part # 57-11 ; $57.42 USD]. Pump air into the system and watch the gage needle drop when the Inlet Needle pops off its seat (opens). You want a pop-off pressure between 14 and 25 PSI"
Posted on: 10/13/2009 9:12 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9171125

RE: NEW DLE30!
Could be because of the engines not break-in yet. Some of DX50s do the same.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 8:01 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9167840

RE: First time this has happened to me
what are the props used? If they are too small, it would make the YS running at RPM too high: extra load on the bearing.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 9:40 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166207

RE: ys 140 sport problem
The plunger should move up and down, via the diaphragm. and the small brass T thing. The plunger should completely plug the hole, with the help from the spring, and when the engine is not running, or at idle. If that is not the case, then definitely there is an issue here. Is the plunger in good shape? You may test it by taking the regulator out of the engine, take the screw out, fill the cavity with some glow fuel while holding spring in place. The fuel should not leak out from that hole.
Posted on: 10/11/2009 1:57 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163950

RE: NEW DLE30!
Sure. I got a box of 10 two weeks ago. CM-6 is marked on the stem of the plug. Shipping is about a week.
Posted on: 10/11/2009 11:05 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163598

RE: I'm off to Hong Hong - where can I buy a gas engine?
Are U kidding? Model airplane engines on prohibited list?
Posted on: 10/11/2009 11:02 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163590

RE: ys 140 sport problem
[quote]ORIGINAL: ken graham glad i didn't have my hopes to high. with the regulalotor turned in all the way and hit it with the starter it will still pass fuel. i spent over a hour and still will not start. it got so bad that i used up 2 glow drivers and killed the battery on the riding lawn mower using the hand starter.[:'(] i played with the regulator all the time still getting fuel out the carb. the engine never even ccoughed or sputter. tried several different plugs os and ys. [:'(] this thing is going to ys or in the bottom of the lake. [/quote] It could very well be the case that the plug is flooded, which makes start impossible. When the throttle is at idle, the fuel is supposedly drawn to the carb. You may want to turn the regulator screw 1//4 or even 1/2 turn in to help "shut down" the regulator during the idle. Also, make sure the tank can hold the pressure: 10 flips on prop. wait for a hour and disconnect at the one-way valve. Should feel a strong puff of air coming out of the tank.
Posted on: 10/11/2009 10:51 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163567

RE: NEW DLE30!
boats.net has cm-6. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/H-98052-56471.html
Posted on: 10/11/2009 10:26 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163517

RE: YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
[quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon [color=#000066] [quote]ORIGINAL: ChrisAttebery Dar, no need to make such a fuss over a simple problem. Apparently, you don't remember what it was like when you first started out. You know, back when the earth was still cooling. [:D] [/quote] Chris, As you can see in my photo, I have already began to transform back into an ape...[:D] Maybe it is because the Earth is heating up again, with its population nearing 7 billion... I believe that I am and always was less prone than others, to making errors; especially in mechanical assembly/disassembly issues. Yes, a bearing *might* come off the crankshaft with a bit of tapping, but from my own experience, this is not very likely. Reassembly and then 'correct sequence disassembly', is; as I learned from errors made by my customers, the easiest way. This method is a 'sure-fire' technique, which I only found to fail in very loose K&B 6.5 cc engines (Peter Chinn found the rear bearing actually spun in the engine, while it was running. - MAN early '70s). [/color] [/quote] Dar, Maybe you need to work on more customer engines to see a case like mine. The standard procedure will not work in this case. What are you upset about my posting? Sharing info on RUC is a bad idea?
Posted on: 10/10/2009 3:01 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161916

RE: YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
[quote]ORIGINAL: DarZeelon Applying force to the front of the crankshaft toward the rear, with the assembly at room temperature, will cause the crankshaft out - ALONE. [/quote] No. that will not push the crankshaft out, depending on the force used with the table vice. Period. It could seriously damage the case during the process. As I mentioned in the post, there is a sign of the use of locking liquid, it could make the separation hard. When I install the new bearing, I tap it in easily (heated bearing). The procedure I used is the pretty much standard one for YS engines. Only the rear bearing removal was something this time. I did the same on my 63 and 91. All came off easy. w8ye, The separator may not be useful in this case since there is about a hair of space between the bearing and the shaft. There is not space to insert the tool. I do not know. But it is nice to know such tool exists.
Posted on: 10/10/2009 1:57 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161832

RE: YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
Thanks for the input. I was able to remove the rear and camshaft bearings. Rear bearing: it is stuck pretty good to the crankshaft. It was pushed out of the shaft on a table vice. A lot of brute force. On examining the shaft, I found a layer of black residue, something like from a locking liquid. Cam bearings: the one on the case is easy to remove by heating the case and tap it on a block of wood. The one on the cover is harder as there is no much area to work on. At the end, I removed the inner race, the tiny steal balls, then heat the cover to 250. Clamp it on the vice and pry the outer race out with a screw-driver. The install is much easy. Rear bearing: heat the bearing and freeze the shaft. Lightly tap the shaft in, while let the bearing sit on a block of wood. Drill a hole on the wood so that the shaft can pass through. Cam bearings: for the one on the case: heat the case and freeze the bearing. Clamp the case on vice and use the camshaft to center the bearing, and tap on the shaft to drive it in. For the one the cover, heat the cover and freeze the bearing. Use the table vice to push the bearing in. I examined the seal and found it is in good shape. Maybe replace it next time.
Posted on: 10/10/2009 10:11 AM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161437

YS 110 FZ: replace bearings
I decided to replace all bearings for my YS110 FZ as the engine vibrates at the higher rpm and the exhaust is pretty dark. It is pretty easy to get the main craft with rear bearing out, and push the front bearing out. However, I could not push the rear bearing off the crankshaft. It stuck good. What is the best way to slide the rear bearing out? The camshaft bearings are even more difficult to get out. Any good tricks? many thanks.
Posted on: 10/8/2009 11:34 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9158140

RE: 10c 2.4 problems (6014fs problems)
Also make sure the receiver is pretty close to the radio (about 3 ft).
Posted on: 10/8/2009 9:41 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9157796

RE: NEW DLE30!
[quote]ORIGINAL: doublesixes Gents, After installing a DLE30 on my plane, took it to the field for first time operation and break in. I've been using my DL50 for more than a year so by now I know the drill. Well, back to the DLE30, after choking and not getting a single pop, I decided to test the cables, connection, etc. Everything checks fine. I tried again unsuccessfully for another few minutes until it was time to remove the plug and check the spark. There was none. I changed plugs. Still no response. Back at my place I started to think what could I've done wrong to cause the engine not to fire up. The only thing that kept coming was that maybe I connected the regulator (using a Dualsky VR-5L set to 5.8 Volts with a 2s 1000 mahs lipo) and the CDI unit backwards, while doing some trials at the house. I used my voltmeter and checked that the reg was delivering 5.8, constant. Is it possible to short and burn a DLE CDI unit by inserting the wrong end of the connector? My reg's connector has 2 prongs so it's conceivable that one could stick the wrong side into the CDI end which has room for 3 prongs. Sorry if this question sounds silly but at this point I don't know what to do and would appreciate any feedback. [/quote] If you still have the DL50 CDI unit, swap it in and check the sparks. This will rule out battery/switch problems. Cman_25, You may need a new fuel tank for gas. Do use a rubber stopper good for gas, and gas-dedicated fuel tubing. If the fuel tubing slides too easily onto the brass tubing, a barb should be soldered on the end (use a small copper wire) to help secure. Since gas is involved, make sure fuel tubing does not touch the engine. Other than those, the pluming is pretty much the same as for glow fuel. Personally, I use fuel-dots connecting to the third line in the tank (to fuel and de-fuel).
Posted on: 10/8/2009 8:40 PM by Author "nonstoprc" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9157637