RE: Looking for a flight simulator
I, too, am looking for a flight sim that's fairly inexpensive. One of my friends suggested that I just get E-sky's flight sim. He said that it's only $19.99 right now on sale. I couldn't really find anything regarding their software other than the pictures on the ad. You'd think they'd have some kind of little video clip or something so you could see how it looks. In the box you get a basic 4 ch controller with USB interface and the software. From what I've read you can download a whole slew of planes off the internet. I tried to do a search to try and find more info on this sim but am coming up empty handed. Sure, I would like to get a much nicer sim but for my budget I think this might be the way to go. Has anyone ever used this sim?
Posted on: 9/10/2007 12:26 AM by Author "uh-oh/oh-no/oops" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6348544

RE: how to fix night ranger 2
NR2 is a Walkera #4. Usually one of the older versions. Anyway, you just unclip the rotor head (pulls off) after you remove the linkages (snap out, but be careful). Then there are two grub screws holding in the flybar. Remove a paddle and remove the flybar. You can leave the flybar on if you like. THere is a 1mm dia pin holding the head base to the main shaft. Pull this out (or push it out) and remove this from the shaft. Finally, there is either a collet or a clipholding the mast in. Remove this, and the gear and shaft drop out. That's about it - :) David.
Posted on: 9/29/2006 7:43 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4808923

RE: FMS cable and settings - how I did it!
DF04 is Serial, not PPM. You need to make the serial cable for the DF4, and use PPJOY and FMS. Details are in the Walkera 4 thread :) Regards David
Posted on: 8/23/2006 10:06 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4658826

RE: Multi bladed micro helis!!
It's hard to tell from the picture, but I don't see any reason to beleive it's not at least 4 channel. Looks like a flybarless head and shaft-driven tail. I don't think it looked all that small either. The basic premise is that you connect the swash directly to the blades and offset the controls about 90 degrees. It's supposed to be a little harder in practice although I have read of people who do exactly that (connect the swash to the blades). Even with just 2 blades. If you read around the Internet, there's plenty written on the subject :) David
Posted on: 7/29/2006 12:36 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4557617

RE: Walkera #4 Fixed Pitch Helicopter Forum
Hi Stableblade. [quote]ORIGINAL: stableblade 1 It has started tail wagging a little when spinning up, but seems fairly stable after reaching a constant head speed. It will occasionaly jump 30 degrees or so around till the nose is pointing left and stays, but would eventually go all the way around if uncorrected. Maybe if I am just light on the gear and not in the air, the floor friction occasionally gives in the need for right trim. I don't know how good this model of gyro is. [/quote] The Gyro is usually pretty good, but it's not heading-lock. It's just a rate gyro. Trim it in and use the stick to correct by eye. [quote] 2. The bird feels pretty smooth in my hand, but with training gear, the left side vibrates about 1/4 inch at the outer end, the right side is pinned down to compensate left drift. [/quote] You can balance the blades to reduce vibration... [quote] 3. When taking off, it takes a noticable right roll of about 20 degrees to prevent left skid. Is this much roll average ? Or does it need less outside ? I am in a 15x15 room, mainly clear (my workroom) with ALL legs etc. padded with all available blankets, dirty laundry etc. Ain't it awfull, the only bench legs I didn't pad were the ones it hit in my esc jam-on ? [/quote] They are a little tricky to take off, as a beginner... Try "Jumping" them. ie, get them to max throttle before they start playing up and then "jump" the throttle to climb power. Once you get good, you can easily hold them in ground effect with a slow spin up. :) [quote] 4. Can anyone say how long the DF4 will stay stable in seconds without control input ? [/quote] 0 seconds... They are always unstable. They require constant control input to maintain attitude and altitude. However, I've let mine go for more than 10 seconds before... Although they wander all over the sky when you do this. I though 10 seconds was brave. I will let go of a control long enough to change the trim usually. No more. In terms of staying close to the same place, maybe a second or two... Depends on how well the trim is set up. [quote] Here is a tip in exchange. I tried cannabolizing a spring from a cassette drive and hooked it from the canopy mount cf rod to the swashplate guide pin that runs up and down at the rear of the head spindle. It is just strong enough to take all the wobble out of the swashplate and linkage. The heli is noticeably more stable in the zero motion state since the flybar is no longer at the mercy of what ever delicate force sends it to the limit of it's slop (pulling the rotor with it) and gaining inertia in the process. This is one of those very light force springs, the flybar is much more solid and still swings very well. That reminds me of question 5 . 5. My flybar can rock back and forth until the anti-rotation keeper (HM004-Z-03) catches it. Would taking the rotational slop (as opposed to the vertically intended swing) help any, or do you think it is a design intention for it to have slop in the rotational direction ? [/quote] I wouldn't bother. They fly just fine as is. :) The only mod I have is the chord clip (I fly mine outside at fast speeds). But even without that, you can fly fine. LiPo's (7.4v) are a good idea. [quote] Thanks and excuse me for jumping in if out of order. Stableblade. PS, wouldn't that shiney aluminum furnace tape look cool on the rotor tips ? Especially when the sun hits it ? [/quote] That makes for a good excuse to use some to balance the blades. Keep in mind that it also generates drag, so you may need to tighten the blades a little more than usual to avoid one blade dragging behind :) Or maybe loosen them so they can swing back easier. Your choice. Hope you enjoy your heli :) David
Posted on: 7/27/2006 7:58 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4550371

RE: Tail Motor Gear
Use of a small vice would be the easiest.... David
Posted on: 7/22/2006 8:12 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4532668

RE: Best FP - That's Stable in light wind
Hi J-Cube. You have a good point there. I'd never fly my CP models inside. They just have too much energy in the blades and can do some serious damage. And when you're walking your heli around the house and through doors, you tend to get close to it too, putting yourself at risk. But the newer smaller micro FPs are perfect for indoors flight... Convert a coffee table into a Helipad and fly around the living room for 20 minutes... It's great stuff, even if you only have a few feet to fly in. Since I know the FP blades are light and won't do worse than scratch stuff (myself included) I don't mind moving in places where I have less than an inch clearance between the blades and the furniture. Because of that, you can relax a little when flying a FP indoors and start to try stuff like hovering through open doorways, although you need to ensure you have a quick cyclic control. And I have flown into myself more than once with the FP model... Sure, it hurts, but the worst I've received on bare skin under full power was a scratch on my shins. It stung a lot though. I guess FP has a bad reputation for flying outside, and sure they are affected by gusting wind too. That's more of an issue than the strength of the wind. But I really like taking the FP outside and flying like a plane - shooting across the lawn with a last-minute pull up then following the contour of the roof within a foot of it before pulling up into a shandelle and coming back the same way ( or maybe a steep banking turn across a broader section of roof before coming back down). Sometimes I hit the roof, but the FP handles it well. The only problem is climbing up to collect it. ;) David.
Posted on: 7/21/2006 7:25 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4529346

RE: 1st wreck and a lesson learned.
Hi Zeebadoo. FMS is fine to learn to hover on... And it's free. I wouldn't recommend buying an expensive sim to learn to hover - when FMS is fine. Of course, if you want to learn more advanced skills, then a decent sim would be worth the cost. Getting something like a DF4 is good advice also... They take the knocks with a lot less damage. I still fly mt DF4 more than my CP models. David
Posted on: 7/21/2006 11:14 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4527528

RE: Ball link resizing tool
Be careful. They can sometimes work too well... :( Make sure you check the results frequently. But they do work. David
Posted on: 7/21/2006 11:10 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4527512

RE: Best FP - That's Stable in light wind
The biggest issues for a FP heli in light wind are; 1. Headspeed and 2. Weight. (Mass). The lighter the weight (especially in relation to surface area) the more it will be blown around by the wind. Like the difference between a leaf and a rock. Unfortunately, smaller micro's are lighter. Simple issue. After that, headspeed. If you either clip the blades or replace with other blades with higher mass or less incidence. I have a Walkera #4 FP which I performed a chord-clip (32mm) on to increase headspeed and I run with a 7.4v LiPo. Other than that it's stock. It flies pretty fast and I do fly in light wind outside all the time, although it's a lot more fun when it's completely still :) I haven't tried inverted flight (even Pos-G maneuvers) however it's great for FFF. My wife bought me a radar gun this morning, so I'm hoping to get a friend to help me speed check it this weekend. I'm guessing I can push over 20, and as far as 30 kph. David
Posted on: 7/21/2006 10:55 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4527456

RE: Best for a beginner under $300
Hi Tzero, The Venom Night Ranger II is pretty good. It's a Walkera 4. But it's not going to do 3D. If you're serious about 3D, then you might want to get something like the #4 (Even though it's only fixed pitch) because it will barely cost you more than $100. THen you can put the rest towards a decent transmitter and setup for 3D. Maybe a T-Rex or similar. RTFs are great value, but as you want more from a model, things like programmable TXs make a BIG difference. Once you start buying a decent TX, then the cheapness of a RTF will likely leave a bad taste in your mouth and the cost effectiveness is lost. David.
Posted on: 7/12/2006 8:53 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4492095

RE: Heli aerobatics how-to-do's
FFF - Fast Forward Flight... As opposed to FF (Forward Flight)... Nothing that spectacular, but one of the learning stages... (Hover, Forward Flight, Fast Forward Flight, Nose-In Hover, Figure 8s, Chandelle, etc... Not necessarily in that order, but could be. ) Try http://www.helihobby.com/html/helicopter_dictionary.html for some terms. As a general guide, if you can't hover well nose-in, then you're probably not ready for advanced maneuvers... Unless you have a lot of money to spend on broken helicopters ;) Regards David
Posted on: 7/9/2006 4:06 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4479393

RE: 3 cell LiPo ok for Walkera #4???
Less than 6 amps all up, typically. http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/162452/Pn35627.jpg is a table that shows current draw against measured lift (Taken with a 3S) That's around 4 amps main, and under 2 for the tail. Regards David
Posted on: 7/8/2006 3:40 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4476236

RE: 3 cell LiPo ok for Walkera #4???
I've run a 3S on a W4. Did it for 3 or 4 tail motor changes. They have a lot of power. No mods, just stock, blade chord clip and a 3S 1200mAH LiPo. But I prefer the 7.4v LiPo (2S) now. Although they lack power (although a pinion change might fix this) the tail motors last a lot longer. David
Posted on: 7/7/2006 10:15 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4475387

RE: thrust
Hi nitro4tectroy77, I take it you mean the servo's go, but there's no motor activity? If so, perhaps the throttle is too high? You may need to set trim low to get the throttle to engage. Also, other problems could be inverted throttle or incorrect mixing set. I'm not familiar with the model, so I'm guessing. David
Posted on: 7/1/2006 11:33 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4453539

RE: what's better
Hi Paechy, The NRII is a Walkera 4, and the NR3D is a Walkera 22e as mentioned. Read the Walkera forums on these models for more details. Personally, IMHO, if you have to ask about the difference, you would be better off with the NRII I fly a Walkera 4 and they are great trainers. I started with a 22a (Early 3D version with driven tail) and smashed it to pieces. I crashed the #4 a lot also, but they are a lot more forgiving as Scorp27 said. I had two Walkera4's until last weekend when one crashed into a tree and fell 7m onto concrete... Busted off the rear skid mounts and broke the taik motor. :( But still repairable. If you mod then with a chord clip, you can fly them FFF just fine... They come with a Mabuchi 370 motor. I think the 22e might come with a 380. I've never replaced my main motors on any of my Walkera 4s but you'll need to replace the tail motor often on both. David
Posted on: 6/30/2006 6:58 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4449901

RE: WALKERA4 NAO FLIES - ONLY 3CM
Hi Scratchbuild. If a 7.4 LiPo works and an 8.6 NiMH doesn't, then the battery is no good. Simple. :) David
Posted on: 6/28/2006 7:20 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4440061

RE: Motors...
Hi Matt. At 11.1v, the smaller FP models can exceed their enveloped. As you increase the payload a lot, you need so much main rotor power that the models become unstable. Sure, they still fly OK, but they shake a lot. It's something I've seen in a few when I put a huge battery in them. You could balance them all up carefully, but seriously, you're exceeding their usable flight envelope. I used to go 11.1v but now I find they fly much better at 7.4v, so I stay there. More power and more weight can cause issues, so it's not like diminishing returns - it's actually negative returns. You pass the point where things don't get more powerful, they get less useful. It really sounds like you need a bigger model. Anyway, I'll tell you my flying tale this morning. I have two models I fly now. I have 2 Walkera 4's and 2 AluSEFs. (Aluminium Super Easy Fly - pretty much the first cheap all-aluminium and fiberglass model available). The Walkera 4's have been great. They are my fun machines. But the AluSEF's are awesome, especially when you get past the gear problems. AluSEFs are also known as Tornado CP400s by the way. Anyway, the local sellers stopped selling the CP400s quite a while back. Seems they were underpowered. They didn't lift off out of ground effect stock in many cases... Or so the sellers said when they recalled them. I kept mine. So I upgraded mine with an Align 420LF Brushless 3200PRM/V motor and 25A controller. A LOT of power. And I figured brushless is best. More power is better. Well, I can put so much pitch on the blades that they stall, badly enough that the tail rotor can't counteract the torque... And the AluSEF runs the tail at around 10,000 RPM, so it's got a lot of power. Basically, that's just starting to exceed it's flight envelope capability. And it really climbs fast. I can jump from a 1m hover to around 4m up in just under a second. Damn quick. Lots of power. I'm scared to do a power climbout until I know the radio won't glitch. And it's heavy. Really heavy. 600 grams heavy. OK, not as much as a T-Rex, but still heavy, and it really hauls ass. Anyway, I got another from Ebay. $100. Someone was getting rid of it, and I wanted spare parts. But it had a Gyro and Servo's so I decided to try flying it. Sure enough, it wallowed in low ground effect at best... Inches above the ground, full power. It still only had the carbon brushed motor like the first one I got. (There is a video of my first one flying - see http://blackice.com.au/heli/ ). The second video is with a brushless motor, BTW. So I was about to scrap it for the pieces. But then I was playing with the controls, and suddenly it shot out of ground effect. I realised then that I had other issues. The brushed motor was sufficient, but setup was finicky. I improved it slightly until the 1800 mAH LiPo I had failed. Insufficient power and poor leads. Next step, I got a new LiPo. 2000mAH and 11C. I soldered the motor controller to the brushed motor and used Deans Plugs for the battery. First test flight was this morning. Well, long story short, if flew really well. Fast climb, plenty of power, all on a stock brushed motor. I ended up having to reduce motor power and reduce pitch a touch - it was performing a little too well. Lot of collective authority - even with the brushed motor. Not as good as the brushless, but still great- and stock. And all within the correct flight envelope. Here's the catch. Helicopters are a precision engineered device. Unlike a plane where you can install a bigger and bigger motor until you decide you have enough power (all you have to do is increase wing loading and balance the CoG) Helicopters can't do that. Your rotor dynamics are fixed. You can't "Change the prop". That's because our models *are* all prop. So they are designed to work to a certain level. They are designed that way for efficiency. So for each model design, if you tested them you would find a maximum effective flying weight, maximum rotor head speed and so on. If you keep adding power, you quickly exceed these fixed levels. You can't increase them without changing the prop, which in our case, means changing the model. Anyway, if you want to go 14v, you probably need to look for a very large model. Something in the 1Kg range. With a rotor disc larger than 70 cm diameter. Not that it's all bad - a model that size would be very stable. I'd suggest getting the small model and playing with it. Even if you do modify it a lot, at least there's not a lot of money spent on it. I've run a big brushless motor on a small model, and it flew OK, but when it crashed, it smashed itself to pieces! Too much power to be useful. I wouldn't do it again, but it did work. And as you learn, you'll be able to answer your own questions. Regards David
Posted on: 6/23/2006 10:55 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4424210

RE: Motors...
Hi Matt, I fly a Walkera 4 presently. Two of them in fact. They are pretty much the same as the Spyhawk you are looking at (although I do have a Colco, which looks exactly the same, except I've retired it in favour of the Walkera's presently). They do have a lot of lifting power, and even with a 7.4v LiPo would probably have no difficulty flying... I have a Walkera 4 with chord clipped main blades and 7.4v LiPo and I've flown with 800, 1050 and 1800 mAH batteries. Stock, it will fly for almost 10 mins on 800maH. You would probably get 20 mins with a good setup and at that voltage, the tail is happy. I don't think it would have problems with a camera as well, and although with the clipped blades it can only hover-climb for about the first 80% of the battery output due to the low voltage the performance is good. (I clip for the forward flight and stability improvements). Sure, with 11.1v it'll scream... But I enjoy the extra life from 7.4v. And I don't want to replace the tail motors as often. As for performance? Well, it climbs pretty quick. If I just hover up with a full battery, I can climb to, say, 30 feet in less than 10 seconds in hover alone... And if I use some forward stick when I climb, I often have a real problem judging how high I am, especially if I'm flying in wind, and I start to worry I might lose it... But then it will climb the same 30 feet in maybe two or three seconds. Easily. Also, it flies around 20 mph without problems. It's pretty fast and when I get it up above the house rooftop and orbit the trees around here, it looks pretty good. As for not getting out of ground effect? Those problems tend to be caused by manufacturing issues. The design is fine and a 370 motor is more than enough. I suppose you could use a 380 if you want more, but I wouldn't want the weight overhead. I've flown these things at the fatter end of their envelope and they would vibrate too much to be good with a camera. Light is better. :) Look in the Walkera forum and read up on the Walkera 4 thread. It's pretty illuminating. There's not a thing you could ask about that probably isn't in that thread. Keep in mind some ideas are revisited later in the thread also, so read the whole thing. And if you want some serious power, then you might want to look at something like a T-Rex with a 2400 mAH LiPo. They can carry maybe an extra 100g with ease. More battery or a bigger camera? There are some big Walkera models also. A large Collective Pitch model will also allow for a large Brushless to fit. But what might not be obvious is there is no clear path to a "Best" configuration. Sometimes you just have to buy something and try it out. I think the Spyhawk (or Walkera 4 as an alternate) would make an excellent model to learn on, and a great camera platform. Regards David
Posted on: 6/23/2006 8:02 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4423635

RE: Motors...
Hi Superhornet59, You seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of electric motor technology from reading your posts. Bigger or more powerful isn't what you want. A brushless is typically more powerful than a brushed, but it doesn't always work that way. And you don't go for the biggest or most powerful motor. Basically, you should select the smallest motor that meets your needs to keep weight down. You'll also need a brushless ESC for a brushless motor, which probably won't work with the model without a lot of changes. And for a fixed pitch Spyhawk, just go with the stock brushed motor. THere is no point going for a brushless. Plus 11.1v will burn your tail motor out sooner than 7.4v... Plus you need to consider what flight time you want... I'd suggest just take it stock and learn to fly it. Read the forums. There is no simple answer to your question. Although if climb performance and payload capacity are important, you'll need to look at a bigger CP heli model. (eg, a T-Rex). :) David
Posted on: 6/23/2006 11:25 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4422015

RE: Motors...
What do the numbers mean? Heh, that's a good question. AFAIK, or rather, that I was told - the numbers are based on the Mabuchi scheme that they use to classify their motors. http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/technic/t_0302.html Hence if someone says a "Speed 400 Motor" for example, they mean something like a Mabuchi 380 speed... Except that the scheme seems to be butchered a little, so a 370 (like what is found on Walkera's) is like a Mabuchi 370 motor... eg, 370SD. http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/product/p_0302.html Try TOYS and RADIO CONTROL. Now, the Speed 40 is the Graupner designation for a Mabuchi 380... But people have used this designation now for any similar motor. And to make matters worse, 40 sounds small, but 400 sounds better than 40, so a Graupner Speed 40 or similar generic motor is now known as a SPEED 400..... Sounds stupid right? But that's what it means. So, 130, 180, 370, 380, 400 and 540 now should all make sense... :) David.
Posted on: 6/23/2006 8:42 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4421539

RE: TX MOD
It's easy to fix. Just take the controller apart and move the POT wires. Most common is throttle/rudder on left and cyclic on right. That's known as "Mode 2" Just move the friction lever and the spring between the sides and then swap the pots. Regards David
Posted on: 6/23/2006 8:03 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4421463

RE: How to make your own rotor blades
Baking Soda and CA is an old pilot's trick for repairing nicks in wooden propellors. I used crumpled toilet paper (loosely crumpled) and CA. Similar. Very light repairs. And you can file it to profile. But you can't use it on structural areas. Works as well on Foam and CF blades. David
Posted on: 6/20/2006 8:23 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4409538

RE: Has anyone tried?
I have a shogun clone. Anyway, the T-Rex blades are too big for it. They'll hit the tail rotor without extending the tail. I imagine you'll have the same issue... Just measure it to find out. Also, the mounting hole might be the wrong diameter, although you can sleeve it. (I did make a longer tail too, which I use with the longer blades). David.
Posted on: 6/19/2006 7:49 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4405832

RE: Beginner chopper
Tail motors die quickly but are much easier to set up and maintain as a beginner than a driven tail. The 22E is pretty agile though, and probably isn't for beginners. As Soneebee mentions, consider FP. I started with a Walkera 22A. Destroyed it. Got a Walkera 4. Learned on it. It was a lot more forgiving. David
Posted on: 6/12/2006 7:36 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4380780

RE: Walkera #4 Fixed Pitch Helicopter Forum
Hi Crazzy1. You can use any mAH with 7.4 or 11.1. The practical limitation comes with weight... I tried an 1800 mAH with my unmodded Colco, but it was just too heavy, and the tail motor has to work too hard to counter torque. It did fly OK, but I didn't leave the battery there. I think it was Gary who mentioned 1800 mAH with the 7.4. But that's 2S, so it would be as light as a 1200mAH 3S. Maybe lighter. That would be fine. David
Posted on: 6/12/2006 7:33 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4380771

RE: Fixed Pitch
Hi J-Cube. What Credence said was right... I had a Walkera 22A (The shaft-driven version of what you have) and I destroyed it by too many crashes. THen I got a Walkera 4 which lasted long enough for me to self teach. THe lower headspeed makes a big difference. Anyway, then I discovered simulators (eg, FMS and PPJOY). And I stopped crashing so much. :) David
Posted on: 6/11/2006 7:02 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4379048

RE: Night Ranger II Sim..... Need Help!!!!
The Venom Night Ranger II is a Walkera 4. They all come enabled from the factory and Venom don't change that much - See the Walkera 4 thread in the Walkera section for more details - :) THen make a cable and use PPJOY and FMS. David
Posted on: 6/11/2006 6:58 PM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4379030

RE: change frequency
Hi Stevo37. I just changed the crystals on my Walkera 4. 35 to 36 fine. I can't vouch for other versions but the 35 MHz I tried seemed OK :) Use Futaba or Single Conversion crystals. Buy them as a set. 72MHz is a different matter. You'll need to replace the TX and RX. You can convert them, but it costs more in the long run. I converted a 72MHz RD6000 to 36 MHz, but it was worth the cost- and it cost me more than a new cheap TX would have. David
Posted on: 6/11/2006 11:04 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4377769

RE: Fixed Pitch
Fixed pitch models are good for beginners because... * They are harder to fly, so you learn quicker. * You have to think ahead of the model, which builds good skills. * They tend to have lower head speed so are less likely to damage things they hit. * They tend to be stronger and take less damage in crashes. * They are usually cheaper so you don't mind taking risks as much. But the smaller the heli, the quicker you need to be to fly it... As a general rule. I have a couple of Walkera 4's. Nice to fly. The collective pitch models have better collective response though. Especially vertically. And when you drop off head RPM to fly or descend, control suffers. But I still fly my Walkera 4's outside at least once a week. More if it's light when I wake :) David
Posted on: 6/11/2006 11:00 AM by Author "oops" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4377758