RE: 58 Inch F8E Crusader buildig Log
Thanks for the info. Looks like a sweet project. I'm definitely subscribing to this build. I see that the AMA carries these plans but I ddn't see the short kit listed yet. Just wondering if your using the stock plans or something else. You mentioned Lazerworks "redrew" the plans..... Mike
Posted on: 8/29/2012 11:36 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211207

RE: 58 Inch F8E Crusader buildig Log
Does anybody have a pic, jpeg, Pdf or something so we can see what we are talking about here? I went to flying models mag website and couldn't find any reference to Franz or this plane. Mike
Posted on: 8/29/2012 2:13 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209971

RE: Balsa USA Phaeton II Need Help
Use an IRON.... NOT a gun. Most guns will not retain enough heat once you touch it to the metal and if you do get the solder to flow you will most likely have a cold solder joint that will come loose like a poster above is experiencing. Make your self a simple plywood jig you don't mind burning if you need to keep tabs and the like in place. For wire to wire joints you must wrap with copper wire. You'll need at least a 60watt Iron with big wide blade and silver solder. You can use plumbers solder but electronics solder should be avoided. However... the FIRST thing you must have is clean pieces. Using CA to hold the wire together is just contaminating the joint rendering the piece worthless. Sand the wire with 400 grit and denatured alcohol until its got a roughly sorta shiney finish. Wipe down again with a clean rag and more alcohol. Tightly wrap the joint with the wire. Wipe down again with the alcohol then smear the assembly with solder flux paste. Get the paste in there good. Now make sure the Iron is hot and properly tinned. Google tinning a soldering Iron if you don't know what that is. Touch the Iron to one side of the piece and your solder to the other. Once the piece is hot enough, the solder will flow and wick itself into the joint. The flux will bubble and smoke off but that is good. Keep touching the solder all over the joint until everything is coated. Practice will get you a feel for it so you just have to do it. Once the solder has cooled, take a wire brush and more denatured alcohol and scrub the piece of ALL the flux residue you can. The piece should be somewhat shiney and your done. Eyelets and brackets are basically the same. CLEAN pieces, flux, hot iron, make sure the solder flows into the joint, not on it.... Hope some of this helps. Mike
Posted on: 8/24/2012 9:16 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205157

RE: Looking for RCM Plan Articles
Here's a link to get the cloud dancer article as presented; http://www.ebay.com/itm/RADIO-CONTROL-MODELER-MAGAZINE-RCM-JAN-1996-/280927601456?pt=AU_Magazines&hash=item4168970330 I didn't find anything available for the other article you want but I didn't look very hard. Mike Ooooops..... Sorry, didn't notice the auction was in Australia. Kinda expensive for just a magazine.
Posted on: 8/17/2012 11:29 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197018

RE: sterling corsair 36
Two small servos in the wing is definitely the way to go. I always worry about slop developing in metal gear servos on gas airplanes. Especially high rpm small nitros so I use the strongest nylon or carbonite servos I can find but in this case you may have a limited choice because of the small servo size needed. Just keep in mind that this is a case where cheapie "clone" servos will not work for long. Mike
Posted on: 8/17/2012 10:44 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196969

RE: sterling corsair 36
Back in the 80's a buddy of mine built one of these with a Super Tiger. 23, 5 channel radio- full house controls and a bomb drop. Don't know what servos and battery he used but we definitely didn't have the options we have now much less inexpensive so I doubt they were small and lightweight. In anycase, it flew really good. I would say a .10 and two controls and lightweight construction would be fine. Mike
Posted on: 8/16/2012 3:17 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196167

RE: spray paint silkspan?
The short answer is yes you can. But its probably not the best choice. The newer formulations of the lusterkote spray better but are not as fuel proof. I've been using the flat colors that the car guys use on their R/C car bodies. It dries fast, lays flat, is light weight, and is hard to run. And if it orange peels, you can sand it after its well dried. I then top with the lusterkote clear to fuel proof it. This is good up to about 15% raw nitro. More than that I use good ole dope. Sig sells spraycans of basic colors if you don't have a spray rig. Mike
Posted on: 8/16/2012 10:49 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195867

RE: Its Official... I Ordered a Kit
The Thunder Tiger. 46 is an awsome engine. Even at the new prices its the best value going considering quality, longevity, performance, and ease of use. I LOVE these engines. Radios are a hugely personnal decision. Don't just go in from a price point. GO to a hobby shop and a flying field and hold different radios. All the current major brands like Airtronics, Hitec, JR, Futaba, and Spektrum are quality radios and they all work well. Find one that feels good and is comfortable to hold for a long time. At the field you are going to fly at, pay attention to what the majority of others are flying and ask questions. Its much easier to get help if they are flying the same equipment. Especially if you need a servo wheel or other do-dad while at the field. However, if they are all flying a certain radio just because it was "cheap", don't be afraid to jump ship and buy something else. Also.... DON'T limit yourself to a 4 channel cheapie as your first radio if you don't have to. I know we all want to save money but this is the classic example of "buy cheap, buy twice". If you decide to stick with the hobby you will quickly find out how lacking in features the 4-channels are and you'll be looking to buy a better radio. If at all possible, don't buy less han a 6 channel radio. You might not use all the channels but the extra features that are included in most 6ch or better radios will be available. If your on an extremely limited budget then by all means a 4ch is a means to an end. Keep in mind that if you don't continue with the hobby, a 6ch will be much easier to sell and will fetch a higher percentage of your purchase price than a 4ch will. Have fun and I hope some of this helped, Mike
Posted on: 8/16/2012 10:29 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195849

RE: Radial engine recommendations?? Looking for a home for a Saito 120R3!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Gray Beard My Boeing F4B-2. Just kidding, it's a scratch built and too big and heavy for that engine. Take a look at Balsa U.S.A. kits. They cut a good product!! [/quote] Hey Gray, You musta read my mind. Lovin' the F4B. I've got a BP Hobbies (Bob Peru) F4B-2 kit 1.20 size that I also think would be perfect with one of these radials. I'm sure it'd fly fine on the 120 but when I get ready to build it I'm gonna hunt down a 170 for a little extra "oomph". Mike
Posted on: 8/6/2012 11:53 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183853

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: EF [quote]ORIGINAL: ChinookRC Here's a <a href=''http://youtu.be/ttuohZUsJ5U'' target=''_blank''>vid from YouTube.. looks like the same size. [/quote] The ESM ARF version is ~80'' span I think, like my Pica kit. It looks very good if you're into ARFs, however the video demonstrates (yet again) why I dislike retracts...[8|] [/quote] Retracts can be a pain but his "Almost-stall-to-a-No-Flare-nose gear-as-a-landing-spike" to the runway attempt sure didn't help. Mike
Posted on: 7/29/2012 12:44 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11172992

RE: BUSA 1/6th scale Sopwith Pup build.
Sweet![:D] Subscribed and looking forward to the build. Enjoy, Mike
Posted on: 7/24/2012 12:34 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167499

RE: New kit for a Saito 56?
[quote]ORIGINAL: GaryHarris While I am hording kits, I am looking ahead. [:)] I prefer a relaxing type plane that's not hot, scale looking would be a plus, tail dragger would be a plus and it's free! [:D] I'm leaning towards the BUSA Pup, but I'm a little worried about my flying skills since I only have about 200 flights under my belt and I think this plane might be a handful with the short tail moment and all. Building it wouldn't be a problem, so I'm open to suggestions. Thanks in advance. [/quote] Have you ever seen a Pup fly. Built and balanced correctly you have to rub and sweet talk them pretty hard to make them do anything wierd or wild. It may be short coupled but its not GeeBee short coupled. You have to look at the whole package. Like any plane almost, keep the control throws in reason and stay off the gas if you have too much motor and you'll basically have a biplane Cub. At your stage with several kits under your belt, the Pup would be a perfect candidate for your requirements. If you can handle a 4*40 then I say go for it. Its a much better flyer (not to mention better looking) than the Taube. However, if monoplane WWI types are your thing then also look at the Top Flite Elder 40. A very nice flying "scale like" plane. Mike Mike
Posted on: 7/17/2012 9:17 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158650

RE: Pitcairn PCA-2 Autogiro by Whirlybird Aviation
[X(][X(][X(][:D][:D][:D][:D][;)]......... Yeah!..... Shake that booty! ROFLMAO, Best maiden video ever!!!! I love it, Mike
Posted on: 7/14/2012 8:35 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155621

RE: Pitcairn PCA-2 Autogiro by Whirlybird Aviation
Very nice!!!! Wishing you all the luck I can for your maiden. Mike
Posted on: 7/7/2012 3:01 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146204

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChinookRC Now that's a warning I won't soon forget... well told and well received!  Great solution too - many thanks.  I'll post pics when it's done. [/quote] Looking good. Can't wait to see your final product. I really enjoy your builds and threads. I'm kinda in a medical hold from doing too much so its fun reading what other people are doing and you document your builds well. I still need to go back and find your Bearcat build as I don't remember if you put any final product pics. Mike
Posted on: 7/7/2012 2:55 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146201

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChinookRC Realized I'd forgotten to install the horn support ply inside the F/A structures so I put in small balsa blocks and screwed in the stock horns temporarily for fitting the control rods.  Seemed to work ok.  I dripped some thin CA in the screw holes to harden them and will epoxy them and the horns after covering. [/quote] Uhhhh.... you might want to rethink this. A few weeks ago I was doing a Top Flite P-51 maiden for a guy. I had seen the construction a couple times during its build and it wasn't perfect but not bad either. During the prefight I saw what I thought was ply plates added under the horns and they seemed solid so I didn't ask. Wouldn't you know it... I lined up and rolled on the throttle. i was holding some right rudder but she was still torquing a bit to the left so I put in all the rudder it had. It straightened up just long enough for me to register it before she all of a sudden slammed over to the left and smacked the pilot netting about 2 feet from me. After I checked my britches to make sure I still had my dignity, I went over and checked it out. Not much damage as she hit nose and wing tip pretty square. A broken prop, and a dinged up wing tip and leading edge and a collapsed retract. What stood out though was the rudder pushrod dangling with the horn still attached. Turns out the plates were his idea of a balsa spacer to get a better pushrod geometry. He also had forgotten to add the play mounting plates so he just CA'ed the holes and epoxyed the screws. You could see the wood still attached to the screw where it pulled away from the rest of the balsa. I shudder to think what would have happened if it had got in the air with all the other horns attached the same way. My suggestion at your point in the construction would be to drill and sink some hardwood dowls into your balsa blocks all the way through the surfaces, then screw the horns into them or something similar. Balsa threads might be fine for servo hatches but not for flight surfaces. Mike
Posted on: 7/6/2012 9:40 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145361

RE: Sig Citabria Build
Before doing anything, try some on some scrap cowl material. Bend it, flex it, etc... If it stays put then your good to go. The canister in your pic looks like one of those "spackle" type fillers. They weren't really made for smooth non-porous materials. I've got a can of the balsa colored version so I was a little concerned after all the hard work you've put into this. Mike Edit; I just went a checked, I have the exact same stuff except its the red "balsa colored" can. The Hobbylite is for balsa primarily though.
Posted on: 6/21/2012 10:57 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126727

RE: Sig Citabria Build
Looking good. Just wanted to say that balsa filler is probably not the best to use on that plastic. Especially if its built up a bit. As soon as the cowl flexes, i.e, putting it on, cutting engine holes, engine vibration, etc... it'll fall out. Micro balloons and epoxy or even Bondo body filler would be better to use. For small pin holes or shallow areas you can use red or green glazing putty or that filler stuff they use on plastic static models. If you want to stick with the balsa filler try some on some scrap. When final sanded, wick with thin CA and see how that works. It might harden and help bond it to the plastic but I've never tried it. Mike
Posted on: 6/21/2012 12:24 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126171

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChinookRC I superimposed traces of the model side view and the 3-view that is included on the plans and the model is definitely quite a bit longer in the tail than the 3-view. The nose is also more narrow to give an overall more streamlined shape.  And this is fine with me - I'm not looking for scale accuracy so much as a nice flyer that I can graduate to from my Nexstar trainer. [/quote] I didn't realize the plans included a three view of a B model. As a Dave Platt kit I'm a little surprised it doesn't match the models plans better as evidenced by your tracings. As I go back and look I take it the included three-view was used for competition documentation which is even more surprising. In anycase, the built planes look nice and sure do fly good, That Rimfire does look like a good motor. I like Rimfires and have several but if your gonna spend that kind of money on another motor, go look at Scorpion motors. Those are very nicely built, and efficient for a reasonable price. Oh.... and for this size plane I would go 6 cells. Your amps would be lower and you'll probably need the nose weight without have to get too radical with the mounting. Mike
Posted on: 6/8/2012 12:14 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111434

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: smithcreek I'm going to assume he meant these kind of ball links: [link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD912&P=ML[/link] [/quote] Yes these are the Heim style I was talking about but the ball and socket type work well too if they'll fit. I definitely recommend these style over e/z connectors. In my opinion E/Z connectors are no more precise than z-bends. They depend on the slip fit of the connector and the servo arm which wears quickly and develops slop. Mike
Posted on: 6/8/2012 11:47 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111428

RE: have to share room with WIFE..........
[quote]ORIGINAL: morgan175 [quote]ORIGINAL: optech [quote]ORIGINAL: vicman WIFE? What kind of engine is that? I have heard off FIRE (front intake-rear exhaust) RIRE (rear intake-rear exhast). I don't know what a WIFE engine is but there is always room for one more engine.[:D] [/quote] Haven't you ever heard of WIFE engines??? Wide Intake Fat Exhaust. They found out early
Posted on: 6/7/2012 11:58 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11110895

RE: have to share room with WIFE..........
[quote]ORIGINAL: vicman WIFE? What kind of engine is that? I have heard off FIRE (front intake-rear exhaust) RIRE (rear intake-rear exhast). I don't know what a WIFE engine is but there is always room for one more engine.[:D] [/quote] Haven't you ever heard of WIFE engines??? Wide Intake Fat Exhaust. They found out early on that configuration is much too detrimental to the hobbiest. I had one once but I wasn't sure which was louder, the intake or exhaust noise...... I tried to jam a muffler in the exhaust but the intake got REALLY loud. In the end it pulled the muffler off and tried to beat me with it. Finally had to divorce myself of it and got a new, young, sleeker FIRE model. Was always too scared of the RIRE models a little to wild of a ride I imagine:-) :-) :-)
Posted on: 6/7/2012 3:49 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11110468

RE: have to share room with WIFE..........
She is NOT gonna like it when you want to sand something or breakout the epoxy. I personnaly like the smell of most epoxies but find most woman freak out everytime I open a bottle to mix some up. At first you may be thinking you'll just sand outside but you'll find that everytime you need to modify a part or make someting fit or complete a step before you can pull a part off the board, going outside "everytime" is gonna' become a royal pain. A shop vac can ease the pain but that thing going on and off may annoy her in short order. But if she and you talk these things over before hand and she understands, a 48x24 table will work fine. You need some place or maybe a larger put away table to use for setting things up and measuring with the completed assemblies. Good luck Bro:-) Mike
Posted on: 6/7/2012 3:41 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11110459

RE: Help! Polycrylic Disaster
[quote]ORIGINAL: Steveibrc Which leads to the next question. What will work for method of sealing the weave of Worldtex type materials,  or should i just run it bare? [/quote] This is what I use for fuel proofing, http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane , The firewall, engine bay, wing saddles, fuse bottoms any where fuel might get to. I use it to fuel proof the wood before I cover the plane and have never had a problem. This stuff soaks into the wood and is thin and much nicer to work with than epoxy. However.... I've never used it on top of a fabric covering. So okay, your thinking.... how does this fit my situation??? Well....I don't see why you couldn't use it over covering its just that I've never done it. It is fuel proof though. The only thing I might worry about is that it might yellow over time after exposure to sunlight. But as your covering is cream and black you might not notice it (or it'll give your plane an old timey fabric look). The other thing I might worry about is being sure you got all the old chemicals off before putting this stuff on. Did the Polycrylic soak into the fibers or underlying wood??? good luck getting it out. My gut tells me that your probably going to run into contamination problems but its worth a try before pulling the covering off. I did notice these products that "might" not have the coloring problem but I have no idea how fuel proof they are. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/interior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-water-based-oilmodified-polyurethane http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/hardwood-floor-finishing/minwax-super-fastdrying-polyurethane-for-floors My mother swore by spar varnish and I'll admit its tough as nails but everyone I've used really yellows over time. This stuff has a UV blocker though... Hmmm, may have to pick some up and try it myself. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/exterior-clear-protective-finishes/minwax-helmsman-spar-urethane Hope this helps, Mike
Posted on: 6/5/2012 12:50 AM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106926

RE: Available Stick Kits
I'm not sure what "reasonable" for kits is anymore (have you seen kits on Ebay lately???). But you can't go wrong with a Sig Kavalier or Mid Star 40. Both are under $100 and are full kits with plans and hardware. Early RC kits has a reproduction kit of the Falcon 56 and the Senior Falcon. They are more pricey but are nice laser cut kits with all the wood necessary and plans. No or minimal hardware though.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 11:51 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106909

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChinookRC ......... about the longer than scale tail (no comment from Dave). [/quote] I'm not sure how much research you've done but the three view you show here looks like the A model or maybe even a prototype. The B that your kit is, had a more squared off cowl and I think a bigger engine. I think there were several other changes as well. Its late and I don't have my T-28 stuff in front of me right now but your kit is probably more scale than first glance. Mike
Posted on: 6/4/2012 11:31 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106901

RE: Dave Platt T-28B Trojan 1/7 Scale 65-inch
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChinookRC .......... I need to research the best hardware to use for a slop-free bell crank setup though. [/quote] Use ball links. Either the helicopter ones or the DuBro hardware (they have a pretty extensive selection including metric). Just about anything else will develop slop. Also, pay attention to the pivot points on the bellcranks. Its usually just a plastic sleeve with a washer on the top. The fit is not very precise so they can rock a bit introducing slop. Especially over time. Since this style of aileron actuation is almost never used anymore I'm not sure if there is anything better out there so you might want to look around. On some helicopters, they use plastic bellcranks but there is a flanged ball bearing on both sides with a brass or aluminum sleeve to take up the space between the two. You can then run your bolt tight and not have to worry about slop. On another note; I've seen a couple of these fly many, many moons ago. They didn't look like they needed any washout. Very majestic and solid flyers. However, I didn't build the planes so who knows but adding washout was just not common back then. Mike
Posted on: 6/4/2012 11:25 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106897

RE: Pitcairn PCA-2 Autogiro by Whirlybird Aviation
Subscribing [:D]
Posted on: 6/3/2012 11:54 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105454

RE: Sig Citabria Build
GADZOOOKS!!!! Check this out; http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SIG-CITABRIA-R-C-MODEL-AIRPLANE-KIT-NEW-/350569510922?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item519f92380a Maybe you should'a auctioned off this kit and built something else with the profits [;)] Either that or buy a bunch of kits from Sig and dole 'em out on Ebay to morons that pay those bid prices.
Posted on: 6/2/2012 2:41 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104003

RE: K and B Talk
They've had to move AGAIN just recently and are probably still in progress. Apparently, the city wanted their current land for a new rail yard or something like that.
Posted on: 5/30/2012 3:17 PM by Author "optech" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100408