RE: aliphatic resin vs cyanoacrylic
I use both Titebond and CA. I use ca ony in the places that are hard to clamp and hold straight. When I sheeted the H-stab and fin on my GP Extra 300 recently, I did both sides at the same time and placed them between my building board and a leftover piece of corian couner top. I also added about 40lbs of weight to make sure it was pressed firmly. When I took them out they were perfectly flat and true. For sheeting on the wing and curved surfaces I place the sheeting and stack magazines on top of the sheeting. I let them hang off the edge on the leading edge and it contours to the ribs perfectly, no pins needed. As for CA and kicker, (I really perfer Bob Smith stuff) I use them a little, to reduce the fumes of the kicker and to make it last longer, I recently started using an old eye drop container, just a drop it all it takes.
Posted on: 2/10/2012 8:10 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10953560

RE: 4-40 pushrods threaded down to 2-56
As of now, I have some tool steel I found to try out. It seemes ok in its annealed state, It can be hardened and tempered but will slightly warp. I had problems with it twisting off in the die when threading it, this really makes me wonder how it will hold up. It wont have much of a load on it cause I already have the 2-56 ball links installed. I Just got done doing some size testing and I am going with the 2-56 rods and full threaded rods spliced together with 1/8th brass tubing. I can thread the rod that will go into the brass tube to give the solder something to bite to, its not a full diameter thread, but its better than nothing. I will post pictures when I get it all done up, unfortunately I don't live close to any well stocked hobby shop so it might be a while.
Posted on: 12/27/2011 8:27 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10878997

RE: 4-40 pushrods threaded down to 2-56
upon further review, a 1/8 inch brass tube with a .014 wall (like made by K&S Enginnering) would fit over the threads well and give ample but not too much room for solder to seep in. I could just buy a couple of full threaded rods and cut them to short lengths (enough to go into the brass tubing and into the ball link). I have pushrods from kits past also. Great idea 91zulu P.S. I think that 4-40 is a little big for my planes right now as the biggest is a GP .60 Extra 300. I also like to keep my linkages as short as possible.
Posted on: 12/27/2011 8:08 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10878966

RE: 4-40 pushrods threaded down to 2-56
5/64ths I.D. Brass tube looks like its the closest. its .078125 and according to towerhobbies, the rod size of 2-56 is .072. I like this idea a lot better than trying to mill down the 4-40 stuff to try to thread it. I think making sure the rod being soldered needs to be roughed up fairly well though.
Posted on: 12/27/2011 7:54 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10878950

4-40 pushrods threaded down to 2-56
I was wondering if anyone has tried to thread a 4-40 pushrod down to 2-56. [link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG2&P=SM[/link] I know they make solder on things for the 2-56 pushrods, I have tried them on one plane and watched it crash because the elevator pushrod broke on the brass threads[:(]. They are extremely brittle. I also HATE z-bends. I really want ball links on each end of the pushrod. [:D] The pushrods are a .093 wire and a 2-56 pushrod had an O.D. of .086 on the threads. I already have a 2-56 die, I was just wondering if anyone has tried this before, if not, I might be the first one. Thanks for the help.
Posted on: 12/27/2011 1:09 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10878355

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
has there been any progress lately? Did you decide to reinforce the LG mounts?
Posted on: 12/11/2011 8:05 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855069

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
The first pic is what I would do. You might think of putting a piece of tri stock agianst the wing mount former (forgot the number). I think it gives more wood to put in a bigger screw/bolt. I didn't have a problem with it tearing out the fuse sides except when it found the ground nose first really hard. P.S. I have never seen the landing gear get ripped out forwards. It always rotates backwards.
Posted on: 11/27/2011 9:27 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10832297

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
Just dont use blind nuts on the nylon bolts. I used a tap and threaded the ply then used thin CA to reinforce the threads. One more pass with the tap, and it was ready. I am going to use around a #10 nylon bolt the next time.
Posted on: 11/27/2011 6:56 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10832074

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
Best way to find out would be to get an old piece of ABS and try it out.
Posted on: 11/27/2011 6:50 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10832060

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
another thought... did you reinforce the landing gear mount in any way? I heard horror stories of the stock one being too weak and the screws always pulling out and the wheel pants punching holes in the wing sheeting and covering. I layered another piece of 1/4 inch ply behind mine and then used 1/4 20 nylon bolts. I will probably do something the same on my next one, just maybe a smaller nylon bolt. Just some food for thought.
Posted on: 11/27/2011 6:47 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10832055

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
The trim on the fuse looks great. Are you going to continue the stripes onto the cowl? Regarding the DLE 20, I had one in my previous Extra and plan on doing it agian. The cowl had to be cut around the head and the stock exhaust. I mounted it inverted so it was all on the bottom. I also used the dubro vibration reducing mount for a 1.20 4 stroke, had perfect spacing from the firewall to the spinner plate. The DLE with a 16x6 had awesome (almost unlimited) vertical. I usually took off around half throttle. With the 17x6 it was even better. As for weight, I did have to mount servos in the tail to counter balance the weight.
Posted on: 11/27/2011 6:41 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10832046

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
I am no expert but I think all that will happen is youwill need to add up elevator on the maiden flight. My first plane i didnt have a meter and it still flies just fine.
Posted on: 11/25/2011 7:48 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10829206

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
I understand the side process now. I have a hard time seeing the color difference between the black and chrome. Are you going to put any accent design or decals on any parts?
Posted on: 11/23/2011 7:57 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10826398

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
On the second side, did you strech the top all the way down, or top then bottom moving down the fuse? If you did the second, how did you get a grip on the top edge of the covering as it is so close to the fore deck and the turttle deck?
Posted on: 11/23/2011 3:28 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10826075

RE: SIG SE first timer's build thread ;)
As for dead sticks, nothing can be as bad as the MDS engine I bought new for $50 bucks (it was sitting in a drawer and I didnt know better). On the maiden of my first plane, dead stick. I wasnt flying but it was scary for me and the pilot. After endless testing of nitro percentage and extra castor in the fuels, I gave in and now have a used Fox engine from a flying friend and it doesn't seem to be much better. I really dont think I can land that plane with the engine running. I am just going to break down and get a new OS 75AX to put on it. I have wanted to build one of these SSEs but just havent found time. Is it an easy build? What size engine range can be used. Wing span?
Posted on: 11/22/2011 9:21 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10824970

RE: Covering Only Ultracote GP Extra 300S Chrome
looks like you have been busy. I plan to start my build in december. I dont think i will do a build thread cause it will take me a little longer than originally expected (wife just ordered new kitchen cabinets for remodel). I also dont have the patience to take pics and post them.
Posted on: 11/21/2011 7:59 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10823190

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
hey seamusg, I was in denver this last weekend and went to Thompsons hobbies. Have you been there? I have not seen so many kits in one place before, it was a quite impressive sight. I found an extra 300 and opened it up and it was by far the best die-cutting I have seen in a kit so I had to buy it. It was about $15 more than tower, but it helps the little guy and the last extra I got from Tower was more of a mash cut than die cut. Its looking good... I am going to finish a up a few other projects before I start the Extra... Not sure if I will do a Build thread.
Posted on: 11/19/2011 8:30 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10820218

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
I took some pics of how i mounted some of my servos in the tail of my Extra... I had a DLE 20 so I needed weight in the tail... Used a 1/4 inch piece of 5 ply to make a servo tray inside the tail. It held the rudder servo and two smaller elevator servos. This approach worked great. Covered the hole access hole in the bottom of the fuse with a hatch cover.
Posted on: 11/13/2011 8:44 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10810936

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
Any progress?
Posted on: 10/30/2011 7:49 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10790081

RE: what 2.4 article
[quote]ORIGINAL: Oberst The 2.4 isn't here to stay, it's a matter of time that it will be replaced and the better technology is already being tested. All I know is I won't ever buy a 2.4- something that has glitches doesn't go in my $1,000-$2,000 aircraft. Common Sense! Pete [/quote] So since you stick to the old technology, does this mean that you will not be participating in buying the "new perfect technology" that you know so much about? All technology is flawed. Mostly its the users fault. A hammer and a chisel can be very effective and safe in some hands, dangerous in other hands, they still let anyone buy them. The companies cant be there to review everyone that buy their equipment, nor can they install it in their model craft for them. They can and do (the good ones) offer tech. support for people that need it. Remember Windows 95, 98, ME, XP, Vista, and 7 were all released being the big "fix" for its predacessor. Then people got "smart" and bought macs cause they didn't get viruses (whatever, they just hadn't been targeted yet). Its all hype. You should use what works for yourself. If the AMA wants to come to BFE oklahoma to take my 2.4 system, power to them... (My dog will eat them first)!!! As for the companies putting 2.4 out there early just to make a buck.... THATS BUSINESS!!!! Keep up or get left behind. The companies have to make money in order to bring us new products. They aren't like the solar and wind generator companies that get huge government subsidies to produce products that cost more than they sell them for. As for your precious aircrafts, don't fly them and they will never crash.... Sounds boring...
Posted on: 10/24/2011 8:48 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10781168

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
That's how I enter mine. I usually cut the throttle to let it fall a little though...probably not the right way to do it.
Posted on: 10/23/2011 8:07 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10779462

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
Btw Seamus, I will be in Denver on the 17th of November for the broncos/jets game. I noticed it's like 4 miles from westminister
Posted on: 10/23/2011 7:41 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10779422

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: SeamusG Bad joss partisan. I don't perform any maneuver that I can't pronounce let alone spell! Does the plane really go backwards during the maneuver? [/quote] I believe it is does at first, then it does something like a spin on 3 axises. I have done it a lot on the sim and it's fine, I was just getting comfortable enough to start trying it, then I got bit. I didn
Posted on: 10/23/2011 7:35 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10779410

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
It looks like i am going to be redoing this kit... had another bad meeting with the planet. Didnt pull out of the lamchevat soon enough to revover right.
Posted on: 10/23/2011 5:53 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10779217

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
Leave the bond unsanded... It would give an interesting texture/ accent line[sm=75_75.gif]
Posted on: 10/23/2011 6:43 AM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10778494

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
Used monokote. My sister drew the bottom out from a smaller picture I found on the net. I just layed the monokote on glass and her drawing over it and started cutting. The letters on top of the wing were all cut out by hand also. I used a 14 ounce tank over the CG. In the last wreck the tank suffered some damage so I went with a 12 ounce. With the dle i would guess it's about a 25 minute or more run time, I haven't tested it, just guessing.
Posted on: 10/22/2011 8:12 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10778188

RE: GP .60 Extra 300s Build
I built this same plane last year. I put the DLE 20 on it, and also put the rudder and two elevator servos in the tail under a hatch cover. It made for a really clean installation. unfortunately I had a bad run of luck and it has met the ground rather hard 3 times. each time i rebuilt it. This last time things didnt fit quite right soi decided it will be the last. the wing is slightly warped but trimmed out. Watching all this building makes me want to start a new one and put the other on the shelf. I did counter balanced elevators and put a bigger counter balance on the rudder and enlarged it also. last pic was the second bad earth meeting
Posted on: 10/22/2011 6:33 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10778076

RE: What are the excuses you have heard?
A wise man once said "Dont put it in the air if your not willing to lose it." Anything can happen in the air.
Posted on: 9/29/2011 4:26 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10741041

RE: 60-90 Extra 300 DLE 20
[quote]ORIGINAL: fxstb You need 1 swicth for ignition and 1 for receiver when using 2 sources of power. You may not use a [color=#990000]remote kill swicth [/color]for ignition if you have a servo on the throttle, just go idle - put the choke on with the servo / radio (this is when flying if you loose control or on the ground) and the engine will stop. You may also use this kind of swicth (one of them) if you dont want to make 2 holes in your fuselage, they also have one with a fuel dot on it :) [IMG]http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x422/bouy362/MRC2SWITCHBLACK_400x300.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x422/bouy362/MRC2SWITCHDOTBLACK_400x300.jpg[/IMG] [/quote] I used that exact switch on my extra 300 (not an AW but a Great Planes kit) I had a DLE 20 on it, the switch on the reciever failed, leaving the ignition on and no control of the plane. I got to watch it fly itself into the ground (luckly I could rebuild it). I would strongly recommend modifying the switches by soldering all the blacks together off the switch and soldering the reds across both terminals. After doing this, I wouldnt charge both batteries at once though. I was also using an optical kill and a 4.8v on the ignition, 6v on the reciever. I switched to an "IBEC" and am now running two 6v batteries. If one switch fails, the other battery can handle all the load. They are 2000 mah each. IBEC Link http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec I didn't trust the cheap switches used in that thing anymore so i went to radio shack and got two new ones, model number 275-636 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102475
Posted on: 6/14/2011 9:17 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Aero-Works Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574666

RE: OK, I bought all these planes, Now what
After I did my first solo with a trainer, I flew it a couple more times, by then i had a kit that had been given to me and i had it all put togetherand ready to fly. It was a Ace Hobbies (i think) bingo that my uncle gave me, he said it was almost just like an astro hog that he had once. I let my uncle maiden it then jumped on the buddy box with him and I learned how to fly it. A couple of flights later, I was not allowed to fly buddy box anymore. The sim really helps on the learning curve... Nice score also.
Posted on: 6/14/2011 8:31 PM by Author "partisan" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574594