RE: Ultra stick 25E!
The 25e will come out very nose heavy with a 4S 4200ma pack and a Power 32 equiv. It will easily fly slower if you move the CG rearward, without adding weight. I fly mine with a Power 32 and 3S 4000ma pack. I push the pack rearward til there is only enough in the battery bay to strap the end down.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:53 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263593

RE: E-flite P-47D Help
The Park 400 s not enough motor for that plane. I remotored mine with a Park 450 outrunner and it was respectable......If you're thinking about running the Park 400 inrunner, direct drive, instead of the gearbox, you will be looking a a really small prop to stay within the parameters of the motor. Even if you could, I think you will find the plane to be grossly under powered....JMHO...Pat
Posted on: 8/25/2009 9:58 AM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9043298

RE: Badius Owners Club: A New Hope?
Adam.....Using a 4S 4000ma 20C. I flew it this morning....It flys great. Just a few clicks of down elevator and it was on rails.....It was pretty darned fast. I kept the flights short at 5 minutes or so and some throttle management because I was trying to figure out flight times. Got 3 flights....The good news.....I like this plane.....The bad news is that my RX sux. It was involved in a really bad crash, about a month ago, but it was what I had....As I got more comfortable with the plane I started flying it faster, which took it out further on the circuits. While it worked well when it was close, it started glitching pretty bad at the far ends of the circuits. Since I've decided I like it, I will pull and scrap the bad Futaba RX and take the Berg 7 channel out of my little Edge 540 profile. It can get by with one of my 4 channel single conversion RX's with a Y harness..... I recharged the packs and only had to put back 1800 - 2200 ma, so I guess I don't need to fly it as conservative as I was. I forgot my temp gun, so I couldn't judge the motor temps, as I'm a little skeptical of this Scorpion motor. It's been replaced a couple of times, as it doesn't live up to the 1200 watts continous it says in it's spec's.....But I figure it should be ok at 600-800.....Pat
Posted on: 8/23/2009 3:10 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9038127

RE: Badius Owners Club: A New Hope?
I had a guy give me a World Models Barbara Jean,, last week. It seems he, somewhat assembled it and was just using it for decoration. One Aileron was missing so I built a new one, but the thing has some type of weird covering, so I just covered it with some Monocote that was close. After taking it completely apart and reassembling it correctly, it now is ready to fly. I hope to maiden it, tomorrow. The nice thing about it was that I didn't need to buy anything to get it RTF. I reused components from crashed planes of the past. The mfg says itr needs a .50 size glow motor, but it felt really light. After completion, I weighed it and it came out at a whopping 4 lb. 9 oz. The power system will put out 800 watts for 15 seconds and 600 watts, all day long. It appears that it is some type of racer type plane. It just looks fast!!!...And it has very small control surfaces....It's not realy my flying style, but heck, it was a free plane.......We'll see how she flys in the morning....Pat
Posted on: 8/22/2009 6:05 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9036252

RE: Volcano ESC from Nitroplanes/Hobbypartz Feedback
I have had good luck with the Volcano Series ESC's from NitroPlanes. I currently have two of the 60 amp and one 80 amp. I've been very happy with both. I also use the Monster Power motors. I currently have a 32, two 46's, and two 60's. All perform up or exceed spec's.....Pat
Posted on: 8/14/2009 2:36 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9016344

Just got a Great Planes P-51 Mustang- Prop help
I just got a Hanger 9 P-51. It is a .60 sized plane and the all up weight will be somewhere around 8lbs. It is not the PTS version. I would like to power it on 6 or 7S at around 40 to 50 amps, max. The motor I'm using is a 1200 watt motor, 400 KV. The problem is I know that to pull the power I want, I would need 16 inch diameter prop. I'm fairly sure that I won't have the ground clearance for a prop, that size. So....What I'm looking for is a 3 blade prop I can put on this plane....Anybody got some magic formula that will come up with some numbers?????......Pat
Posted on: 8/12/2009 7:28 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9011578

RE: E-Flite Mini Pulse Motor Suggestion
Try the Exceed Alpha series 450 or even the 480.....From NitroPlanes....I use them. Specs are the same as E-Flight at 1/3 the price....I've abused them for a couple hundred flights and haven't burned one up yet....I actually think they may be a little more efficient than the E-Flight motors as the magnets seem to be stronger....
Posted on: 8/10/2009 9:23 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9006198

RE: Converting a 90 size Yak
Higher voltage will spin the motor faster, meaning that you will run a flatter prop. This unloads the motor some, and you will achieve the same result with less amps... In my case, I could run 6S and run a 16 X 10. To achieve the same power level I would draw 70 amps. I prefer to keep my current draw around 50-60 amps. I can achieve this by moving up to 7S (higher voltage) and runing a 16 X 8 prop. I get 7S by combining a 4S and 3S pack in series, instead of two 3S packs in series.
Posted on: 8/4/2009 10:23 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8990752

RE: Converting a 90 size Yak
I must disagree a little. I have had very good luck with Rimfire motors. I am building a .90 sized Extra, right now. ( should be finished in a couple days) For the cost conscious person Rimfire, Exceed, or Turnigy motors perform quite well. I used an Exceed .46 motor in a .40 sized Yak W/5S 4000ma packs for over a year and no problems. I have a .50 size Rimfire on 5S in my Sea Monster and a .60 sized Exceed (from Nitroplanes) in my Great Planes Revolver on 6S and the same setup in my Funtana 50X. All work very well. My plane will be in the 8 lb range when completed. I have already bench tested the motor (Rimfire) on the bench. I'm running a 16 X 8 Zoar wood prop. On 6S I was pulling 1150 watts. I switched to 7S and was sitting at 1350 watts. This was well within the parameters of my 60 amp ESC and my 4000ma 15C packs. Keep in mind, for the Yak to perform you will want at least 150 watts per pound....Pat
Posted on: 8/4/2009 6:38 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8990164

RE: E-Flite Pulse XT 25e Covering
It is Ultracote-White-Hanger 9 HANU870, Bright Yellow-Hanger 9 HANU872
Posted on: 7/24/2009 11:05 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8961721

RE: ParkZone Slo-V vs. GWS Slow Stick
The V-tail on the Slo-V will require reinforcement to maintain it's integrity. The foam likes to distort, making it almost unflyable. I actually upgraded my Slo-V to a Rudder/Elevator tail. The Slow Stik uses off the shelf standard sized parts. Not so with the Slo-V....The only parts that fit on a Slo-V without modification, are Slo-V parts. Keep in mind that the E-flight/Hanger 9 electric stick mounts will not fit on the Slo-V stick.....The Carbon fiber stick is too large. The aluminum stik is a standard size and all stick mounts fit it... The Slow Stik flys better and handles the wind better. It can also be upGraded to an SSX with a built up wing. The Slow Stik comes in different colors, to suit your fancy....
Posted on: 7/24/2009 6:46 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8961176

RE: Charging
I never charge without balancing.....I have many packs that are over three years old and have hundreds of flights on them and are still perfoming well. Before balancing I was only getting a year or so or about 50 cycles before the packs were shot.....JMHO
Posted on: 6/1/2009 5:22 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8817166

RE: Badius Owners Club: A New Hope?
Tim, and others......While I don't know squat about gettin planes ta fly, I'm onboard to tryin lend a han ta anyone I kin help......Pat
Posted on: 4/10/2009 11:26 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8669536

RE: Working backwards from a battery to chose an airplane.
Mike, In small electrics weight is your enemy. It is hard to say if you should upgrade to a different size, unless one knows the model you are building. That why I suggest E-Flight planes as they all fly quite well n the suggested power plants. If the plane you are considering is truly 20 oz., the Park 450 will power it nicely. The good news is that there are a lot of planes available in that size. While some would say "skip the 450 and jump directly to the 480" I would say just the opposite. When I was first getting started LHS and others advised to always go one size up from the spec's motor. I did this for about a year. Then I went to and electric fly in where there were many guys and many different planes. I noticed that the flight charicteristics of their planes was different than mine. I queried some of the pilots and found the answer was weight. The larger motors and packs I was running were adding enought weight to affect the way my planes were flying. Not only was it affecting the CG but it also affected the overall wing loading. I played around with this for a couple of years, now and have found that as little as 1 oz. of weight savings can make an unbelieveable difference in the way a plane flys. I have, since, repowered all my planes, except one, back to the mfg. spec'd motor size. I even have one plane that has a motor smaller than the mfg. suggested motor and it flys great. The knowlege on electrics is still in it's infancy and it will probably take a few more years before some of the old ways of doing things get adjusted towards the RC world of 2009.....JMHO
Posted on: 4/5/2009 9:59 AM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8650353

RE: Battery "Y" Harness
I'm not familiar with the powerplant you are referring to so I'll leave that to someone else. As to using the existing packs.....Go for it......My buddy flys a Funtana 50X (Power 60 size) on 4 3S 2100ma lipos. He uses the series/parallel set up you suggest. What he did was make a removeable tray that the packs mount to and then installs the tray in the plane. If you search the different RC web sites you will find a modular Dean's connector that parallels two packs and a Y harness that series packs. I actually use the parallel connector as it is modular. (no wires) On my series connections I prefer to solder the Y connection directly to the ESC. I'm of the belief that the less connectors one uses, the less loss you will have.
Posted on: 4/3/2009 9:13 AM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8644501

RE: My first Electric plane
Cool. Then I think you'll be happy with the E-Flight bird. Many people don't understand the stall and snap charicteristics of Ultimates and therefore are disappointed when their first flights end in diaster
Posted on: 4/3/2009 7:36 AM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8644328

RE: My first Electric plane
Have you ever flown an Ultimate of any kind?.....Ultimates, by nature, have their own set of issues and the smaller they are to more pronounced those issues are...Pat
Posted on: 4/3/2009 6:48 AM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8644261

RE: Working backwards from a battery to chose an airplane.
That Turnigy motor from the supplied link will probably work well, however the KV is a little high. Methinks that an 11X5 prop would still be a bit much for that motor on 3S.....A 10X4.7 would not have the thrust for a plane in the size you are looking at. I have a 1050 KV motor in my Mini Funtana with a 12X6 and if I get throttle happy, I can pull close to 40 amps. This is way more than the ESC and motor are designed for.....Pat
Posted on: 4/2/2009 6:36 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8642796

RE: Working backwards from a battery to chose an airplane.
I would suggest an E-Flight plane....The Mini Ultra Stik is not a 3D plane......Check out the Mini Funtana X or the Extra 260. The reason I suggest this is because if you build it to mfg spec. it will fly great. I have both and luv both. There are more expensive and less expensive, but none easier. When you look at the model, you will find that it spec's and E-Flight Park 480 motor. Go to Nitroplanes.Com and Find the Alpha Series motors. You will find that they have the exact same spec's as E-Flight for 1/2 the price. Then get the recommended Vplcano ESC from the same place....Use the E-Flight S75 servo's they spec. they are reasonable. Either of these planes will give you good 3D capabilities with the packs you already have. JNust follow the instructions, which are pretty good, as compared to some. Make sure you balance it by the book. After you fly it you can adjust the CG rearward as you see fit. They reason I recommend these are because they are easy to put together, relatively inexpensive, and fun to fly. They really don't require any mods to make them fly properly. Also there is the readily available of relacement parts, should the unthinkable happen. Many less expensive planes offer no replacement parts. I fly the Alpha series motors and Volcano series ESC's from NitroPlanes in many of my birds from 28 oz up to 8.5 lbs and have never had issue with any of them. Also, I believe that they furnish a spare prop shaft and even an allen wrench with each motor, should you bend or break one. They also furnish a bolt on prop adaptor, which is really cool, vs the collet style that come with many motors. I switch back and forth between an APC 12X6 slo flyer prop (for max thrust) or an APC 11X6.5 thin electric prop for general flying. If there is anything that needs to be done, that's noit in the instruction book, it would be to reinforce the landing gear mount. On a hard landing it will rip out. It's not complicated....I just mix up some epoxy and pour it in around the mount plywood. I lube the screws with vasoline and screw then in to keep the glue from getting into the threads. the vasoline keeps the glue from sticking to the screw threads and when the epoxy cures, you can easily remove the screw to install the landing gear..Good Luck.....Pat
Posted on: 4/2/2009 6:28 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8642778

RE: Sukhoi Su-26M BNF by ParkZone
I was at LHS today and the owner told me that he is supposed to get them in an 2 weeks.....We'll see. I haven't gotten the DX6i that I guy was going to sell me, yet....I'm really not in that big a hurry as March and April, around here, are known for lots of wind....So far the area is living up to it's name, THE WINDY CITY.....:)
Posted on: 4/2/2009 3:48 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8642339

RE: Battery "Y" Harness
I've run my Power 46 motors on 5S for years, without issue.....You need to watch your current draw as well as voltage....Running it on 6S would make me cringe a little, however, if you stay within the parameters, I don't see where it would be a problem.....I would say that you really need to get an inline watt meter like the one MPI sells.....Then experiment with different prop sizes to stay within the parameters of the motor....As long as you stay below the rated watts and current draw, I don't see where it would be a major problem. Keep in mind that on 6S (two 3S in series) you can throw out all the mfg specs for prop selection.....Forget trying to run it on 3S.....To get any real power out of it you would need a prop the size of a heli rotor.....Pat
Posted on: 4/2/2009 3:14 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8642245

RE: Hangar 9 Pulse XT 40 -need a123 suggestions
I hope you read those spec. properly......That plane, with that motor requires 2 of those lipos.....I have this plane and fly it on a single 5S 4000 ma 15C pack....I'm using the Exceed MonsterPower 46 which has the same specs as the E-Flight Power 46......I realize you can pull some monster amps from those A123's but keep in mind that you will need at least 18-19 volts to pull the power you want. By the way....I don't know where you found the spec. on the E-Flight Power 46 but it is rated at 800 watts continous.....If you pull a constant 900 watts from it, it will burn up.....Ask me how I know....LOL....As far as the Scorpion motor goes, be very careful when reading their ratings.....They are not all that they say they are....Ask me how I know that.....:):):) There are motors out there that will produce the watts you want with a higher KV....However the trade off would be more amps.....Truthfully....I've got mine propped for 850 watts at WOT, but seldom use it. The Pulse XT has a very slippery air frame and is quite fast. While I don't have unlimited vertical, I find I don't need it, because at the speed it flys, it doesn't need to go vertical very long before it's too high....Pat
Posted on: 4/2/2009 3:00 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8642201

RE: What is a good Bi-plane
Those are two totally different airplanes. The Tiger Moth would be a slow flyer. Rather docile and forgiving. It will be capable of some nice slow flying aerobatics if properly built and equipped. The Pitts S-2 is an Extreme aerobat. With the brushless setup it would be capable of just about any aerobatic maneuver one can think of. It is definately not a docile flyer and does not have forgiving flight charicteristics. It will stall easily and will be prone to snap roll if too much elevator control is fed in....JMHO
Posted on: 4/2/2009 12:19 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8641750

RE: Ultra stick 25E!
It will probably need more firewall and strengthening of the front section of the fuse....This plane is designed electric and stock I think it may have issue with the vibration of a nitro power plant
Posted on: 3/20/2009 1:55 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8597664

RE: Pulse XT 25e
Hovering a float plane...:):).....What will they think of next?....I have a Mini Pulse and a Pulse XT-40...I tried a Park 480 on the Mini Pulse and have almost 900 watts on the XT-40....Neither is a good 3D plane....I think it may be the dihedral in the wing or the fact that the wing is not symetrical....That being said, you can hover anything if you have enough power.....I can hover my Ultra Stik 25E with a Power 32 and 14X7 prop....It will pull 700 watts on 4S........This is way over the limits for that motor so I only go there in very short bursts....By the way....A Power 32 pulling 660 watts on 3S will burn up....It exceeds the maximum current draw as checked by my Watts Up meter, by a lot. Ask me how I know this?...:).....Because I have two out at the rewinder....I let thew magic smoke out and both took the ESC with them.....
Posted on: 3/4/2009 10:06 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8544997

RE: E-Flite 46 at full throttle pulsates
Sounds like your packs cannot hold up to the current draw.....Pat
Posted on: 1/31/2009 3:02 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8423274

RE: E-Flite Mini Pulse XT Owner's Club
I actually striped an HS56 rudder servo a while back....I wound up replacing it with a generic metal gear one I had in my spare servo box.....I honestly don't know where it came from as I sometimes add items to my orders to make to make minimum weight....Pat
Posted on: 1/28/2009 9:43 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8413849

RE: Ultimate bipe turns during loops
Ultimates, by nature are definately a bird of a different color. I'm on my third .46 sized Ultimate and know many who own larger and smaller ones. The plane, because of being a bipe, is quite draggy, in the air. Add to this that the rear stab and elevator is close coupled (close to the trailing edge of the wing) gives it some unwanted tendencies. First off, people tend to build them a little nose heavy. While this isn't all bad, it does tend to make one fly the plane faster than normal. Remember that the CG is set on the top wing, while inverted. Ultimates are great aerobatic planes. However, they are not real good at 3D. They will do all sorts of aerobatic manuevers, but trying to fly them in a semi-stall like a 3D plane is flirting with diaster. They will snap roll so fast, that you'll be looking at a debris field, before you even have time to react. They require powered flight at all times. Trying to glide then around slowly will cause a stall, every time. This goes for landing, also. You need to fly the plane to the ground, power on. Flying close to the ground and then cutting the throttle, while giving up elevator, like a Cub, will make you an expert at plane repairs. When you talk about rolling out at the top of the loop, I know what you're talking about. Mine will do it every time, if I'm running reduced throttle and trying to loop too tightly. Ultimates don't seem to care how much aileron or rudder throw you dial in, however elevator throw is an entirely different matter. My first one, was set up by the book. After checking all the throws, I determined that the elevator throws were way to small. Having flown numerous 3D and aerobatic planes, the elevator seemed like it would need twice as much as the book called for. I decided that that would be good for low rates and set it up for almost double that for high rates. On the maiden flight I used low rates until I got it trimmed out. All was pretty good. I landed, installed a fresh pack, and decided to see what it could do....I took off and imediately switch to high rates.....I got to the end of the field and banked left to come around, and gave it a slight amount of up elevator. It, immediately snapped and I bearly caught it before it met the ground. Shook up I decided to land and check it over....About this time, an experienced Ultimate flyer showed up at the field and had witnessed the event. He came over while I was checking it over. After watching he told me I should cut the elevator back to stock for high and 50% of stock for low rates. I readjusted it that way and took off. It was amazing. The 3/8 inch throws were substantantial enough for almost all flying....Switching to high rates (half of what I originally set it up for) the plane got a little twitchy....but it was still controllable. I tried a couple loops and every time it would roll out at the top....The experienced Ultimate flyer suggested I give it full throttle and try it again. At full throttle it only had a hint of roll out....I landed the plane, after that....He came over and suggested I dial back the elevator on high rates 10%....I did this on my next flight and was very happy with the results. The plane flew beautifully. The only issue was that it was flying a little faster than I'd have liked....However, every time I tried to slow it down, it got squirrely....I'm told this is normal for Ultimates and Pitts bipes..... I said it was my third.......because I destroyed the first two....The first was a aileron servo arm failure...I learned to ditch the standard servo arms in favor of HD ones. The second one I crashed twice on landing. The first time I lined up and brougt in nice and low.....All was perfect.....Until the inner moron took over the controls. instead of flying it to the ground and then backing off the throttle, I backed off the throttle while ther plane was in the air, and then tried to use elevator to slow the descent.....This is a NO-NO....Five feet from the ground, it snap rolled and when nose in.....This took me 6 hours to repair.....The very next time at the field, I basically made the exact same mistake, and this time there wasn't enough left to repair. My current Ultimate has 20 flights on it. I always make sure that I'm not fatigued, when flying it. Every manuever is though out before performing it. (including landings) When I start feeling very confident, and start doing some wilder stuff, it's time to put it away, and dig out my Erratix, or Funtana.....I luv the way the Ultimate looks and it flys like it's on rails.....But, before I decide to get wild and crazy with it, I'll need a lot of flights on it. I've gotten more confident with it and the principles required to fly it are the same for all planes. The difference is that many are a lot more forgiving than an Ultimate. Learning to fly an Ultimate will make you a much better pilot, if you can get past the early frustrations.....Pat
Posted on: 1/27/2009 3:37 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8408224

RE: Ultra stick 25E!
Landings on the MUS and 25E can be quite slow. One of the reasons they come in so hot is because the factory set up makes both planes come in nose heavy. I've flown both planes, extensively. (probably 400 flights, between the two of them) Through trial and error I've found that the CG can be moved back on both of them, quite a bit. Then other thing is that people tend to build them too heavy. The "more power is better" is not going to tame a Stik plane down. All it does is increase the wing load so the plane needs to fly faster to stay in the air. The MUS will fly fairly well on the Park 450 motor. The trick is to skip the 15-20 minute flight time by using the 2100 ma 3S pack. I fly mine with a Park 450 and TP 3S 1320ma pack....It takes off from grass in less than 5 feet and lands on grass in about the same.....I'm not taking about manicured club field grass, either.....This is plane old soccer field grass. It will stay in the air at 1/3 throttle, and have almost inlimited vertical at WOT. It will do all aerobatics, just short of 3D and flight times are 8-10 minutes w/throttle management. I've even flown this plane with a Park 400 and 10 X 4.7 APC SLO FLY prop. This gives almost the same aerobatics, with a higher throttle setting and slightly longer flying time.... Flaps are nothing more than a neat gimmick on this plane, that adds nothing but more unwanted weight.....JMHO My 25E is nose heavy with the Power 32 and 4S 4000ma packs. I refuse to add weight to move the CG rearward and instead move the pack as far back as possible. While it doesn't land and take off like the MUS, it still gets off the ground in 10 ft or so, and takes about 15 feet to land. I think, if I was to rebuild it, or get another, I'd skip the Power 32 as it has way more power than this plane needs. I'd go with the Power 25 and go with a 4S 3200 ma pack. I'd also skip the HS 225MG servos and go with HS82MG's...again, to save weight. I suspect that this would make this plane fly similar to my MUS...... The neat thing about both planes is that, if the wind is blowing a little harder than I'd like, I just switch to the larger packs and the added weight makes the plane handle the wind a little better. I know there are many out there that will disagree with me, and say that bigger motors, larger packs, fatter props increase the planes aerobatic ability, but after being there, and doing that, I've found the opposite to be true. Lighter is truely better. Another interesting thing, to note is that as the planes got lighter, the incidence of airframe failure has gone down, substantially. I have not had a wing mount failure or landing gear failure on either plane, for at least a year. .....JMHO.....Pat
Posted on: 1/27/2009 2:12 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8407920

RE: E-Flite Mini Pulse XT Owner's Club
Lon, What don't you like about the Extra 260??....I've built one but have yet to maiden it...Pat
Posted on: 1/24/2009 2:08 PM by Author "patnchris" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8395600