RE: Seaplanes in central NC
Flying Tigers at Jordan Lake. Thousands of acres of fresh water available and a nice beach from which to fly. One of the main reasons I joined that club. Only downfall is flying hours. After 5 PM on weekdays, daylight hours on weekends. But dues are only $30.00 a year or so. Here's a link to a video we shot when test flying the Hangar 9 1/4 scale Cub on their floats. www.youtube.com/watch
Posted on: 9/11/2012 10:04 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225132

RE: Sig Rascal 110
Flew my Rascal 110 this past weekend. Despite blustery conditions, it did fine. Gotta mix down elevator into the flap channel. Without that, it'll climb like a homesick angle. Power is a Syssa 180HP with a Vess 18.5 by 5.5 prop. Here's a video link to the first flight on the plane. Me flying, Rick Cawley is doing the video. www.youtube.com/watch
Posted on: 9/11/2012 8:33 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225017

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The Rascal is a nice easy relaxing plane to fly, even in a windstorm! Now if I can find a set of matching floats before winter sets in, I'll be even happier!
Posted on: 9/10/2012 10:17 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223841

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Just a few words about the first flights on my SIG Rascal 110 with a new Syssa 180HP engine. Other than taking a lot of "rocks and flips" of the prop to get the carb primed, the Syssa 180HP performed flawlessly. No overheating, no wierd sounds, plenty of power and a perfect choice for the Rascal. Here's a video link. http://youtu.be/UIm6SXQfD6s
Posted on: 9/10/2012 5:39 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223534

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thanks for the link to the IBEC user manual. For those of you that didn't print one out, those jumpers can be configured to provide 5.0, 5,3, 6,1 or 6.6 volts output. BTW, the Syssa engine is purring like a kitten with the new ignition and the IBEC is working like a charm. Rascal 110 test flying this weekend, weather permitting BTW, forgot to mention that the Hall Effect sensor can actually move fore and aft in the mounting bracket. I experienced intermittent spark and after checking everything, I pushed on the wiring harness where it exits the bracket. The sensor moved forward about 1/16" and the spark was perfect. A drop of silicone will keep it in place.
Posted on: 8/31/2012 4:21 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212387

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
My Spektrum DX7 has only one "fail safe" channel, the throttle, and that feature can be turned on and off. When programmed on, and the transmitter is turned off, the throttle comes down to a predetermined low throttle position. When you bind the receiver to the transmitter, wherever the low throttle position is set, that's where the throttle goes when the transmitter is switched off. All other 6 channels stay where they were prior to losing signal. My JR 9303 can be set up to move all channels to any predetermined posiition, like everything neutral except throttle, which may be low throttle. Whatever you set up when you bind the receiver, that's where they go.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 11:53 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211712

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I'll do that tonight and report back tpmorrow. If I had a receiver and transmitter here at work, I'd do it right now, but TI probably wouldn't like that. I could use a signal generator set for 100 HZ with a 0 to 5 volt square wave pulse at 1.5 MS pulse width into the receiver lead signal wire, power up the receiver power lead with 6 or 7 volts and see what comes out of the regulator lead. (yes, that works for servos) Maybe I'll just wait 'till tonight... OK, I couldn't wait! With 6.8 volts into receiver red wire and signal generator into receiver yellow wire, both referenced to black wire, the LED lights up at 1.5 MS pulse width, which is center of the range between full up and full down. With the "A" pins shorted, (as it comes from Syssa) the output voltage at regulator lead is 5.2 volts which will probably drop to 5.0 or 5.1 under load. With the "B" pins shorted, the output voltage is 6.2 volts, again most likely dropping a bit under load. I set the jumpers back to where they were originally, with the "A" shorted and the "B" not shorted.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 11:08 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211675

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Well, I can see now why the IBEC is so easy to use. It doesn't even come with instructions! Two labeled cables and a third that goes to an LED. The two little jumpers are probably used to set the regulator output voltage. Mine is set for "A" and the "B" one isn't jumpered. I take it that to change the voltage out, you jumper "B" and put the "A" jumper on only one pin. I'll leave it like it is. Off we go......
Posted on: 8/30/2012 10:24 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211643

RE: Why is it recommended to use a Ball Link on a Gas Engine (RCG15) throttle arm?
Yes, being a licensed amateur radio operator for more than 50 years, I recall seeing an operating spark gap transmitter in action. That monster would interfere with just about any electronic device for miles around. The 1938 ignition system on that engine would simulate that type of interference as well. Most modern R/C ignition systems, if designed and installed properly, are relatively quiet. Lots of sheilding and common grounds go a long way to keep interference to a minimum.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 5:52 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211372

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The IBEC didn't show up yesterday but I did look at a photo on the Syssa site. It seems to have a plug that connects to a control channel (maybe the gear channel in my case) that also supplies power to the regulator board and then to the ignition box when the switch is flipped. The 2 receiver batteries and switches have to be plugged into the receiver at the battery input and another unused channel, just like always.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 5:33 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211352

RE: Why is it recommended to use a Ball Link on a Gas Engine (RCG15) throttle arm?
As for lining the compartment with some type of conductive foil, I would not recommend it at all. It just may result in an "antenna" that radiates any minor RF interference stuff back to your receiver. And with todays 2.4 GHZ radios, ignition interference is practically a thing of the past. 99% of interference related problems are a result of interference between the brain and the fingers.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 5:28 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211345

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
That's exactly how I want to use it. I take it that the IBEC has the following: One battery input (from a battery through a switch) One regulated output (5 volts or so) to the ignition box, that will be controlled by the transmitter One battery output (unregulated, just battery voltage) that goes to an unused channel on the receiver One reciever input (like from channel 5) to turn ignition on and off from transnitter I want to use a second battery and switch, just like Joystick. Sounds like we're singing from the same page, right? BTW, it didn't show in today's mail. Hopefully tomorrow
Posted on: 8/29/2012 11:15 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210443

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
This is one of the Syssa Ignition Regulators with a non-regulated output to the receiver. It also has an opto coupled kill switch that a receiver channel can be used to control the ignition box. It's designed so you can use only one battery to power receiver and ignition, but the ignition output is regulated at something like 5.2 volts. I believe the receiver is straight through from the battery. That should not cause a problem. The receiver output merely turns a circuit on the regulator board on and off and that is then opto coupled to control the 5.2 volts that goes to the ignition box. Has anyone used one of these this way?
Posted on: 8/29/2012 10:57 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210415

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Here's a question for you Stssa 30cc users out there. I am awaiting one of Todd's Voltage Regulator and Opto Isolated Ignition Kill Switch units today. I would like to use 2 battery packs, each one a 2 cell A123 2300 maH version. I will use 2 switches, one fron each battery and ultimately hook up each switch to a separate jack on my receiver. Why 2 batteries? Two reasons. 1- safety factor 2- I need a bit more nose weight. Anyway, what would be the problem hooking up one battery through one switch and into the receiver and then hooking up the other battery through the other switch then to the regulator board (used for ignition only) with its receiver output going to the receiver as a second battery input. OK, have at it. I can take it.....
Posted on: 8/29/2012 9:57 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210360

RE: Choke Servo Buzzing for DLE20
Or you can remove the choke plate and the choke shaft and then remove the spring and ball. Replace the choke shaft and the plate and reset the servo throw so the choke opens and closes fully with no buzzing. This way there is no force needed to set or release the choke.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 5:31 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207380

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Weekend update: Finished the turtle deck and side cheeks and was able to mount cowl and engine. Everything in the photos weighs 25 pounds and balances a bit nose heavy, but covering and paint will add to tail weight a bit. I hope not too much. Photos:
Posted on: 8/27/2012 4:25 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207332

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I had a failure on my ignition box yesterday. I have used an A123 2 cell pack with a 3 amp diode (600 mv drop) in series with the power lead to drop battery voltage down to about 6.2 volts. Now all my ignition does is just whistle with no spark. The ignition is branded "RCEXL" on the case and all RCEXL ignitions can use UNREGULATED A123 2 cell or LiPo 2 cell batteries, according to manuracturer. Date of manufacture on the box is June 2012. What's up?
Posted on: 8/23/2012 7:44 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203296

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Hard starting? I also found the same to be true with my engine, until I got the low speed needle dialed in. It took a few passes at it, but now the engine will idle at 1400 RPM or maybe lower if I use a heavy APC prop (flywheel effect) ane will stay there for minutes at a time. Then it'll accelerate instantly to full speed with nary a hiccup. Yes, as you lean the low needle, the idle speed will increase. But go too far and it'll never accelerate well at all. BTW, during my 2 hours of prop tests, it never took more than 3 flips to get it running. Sometimes just one flip.was needed.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 10:47 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199766

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA

Posted on: 8/20/2012 6:37 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199502

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I bolted my Syssa 180HP to my test stand for some initial break-in and propeller testing,. That choke works too well!!! I flooded the cylinder after only 5 or 6 flips. After clearing the plug, it started on the very first flip. I used 87 octane pump gas with Amsoil Sabre oil mixed at 60:1. Ignition battery was a 2 call A123 pack with a 3 amp 100 volt diode in series with the positive lead to drop battery voltage down to about 6 volts or so. I started with a Vess 18.5 X 5.5 wood prop, the one I plan to use on the Rascal 110. I ran the engine at mid throttle 4500 RPM for 15 minutes, slowing it to idle every so often. I adjusted the high and low needles until I could hold an idle speed of about 1300 RPM for 30 seconds, and it would accelerate smoothly to about 8100 RPM. I was impressed so far. Sound levels were measured at 20 feet over a soft grass surface surrounded by several tall trees. Radio Shack meter was set at right angles to engine at 3 feet above the ground. At full speed and with sound plugs installed sound level was 94db (a) Without the plugs, it increased to 95db (a) and high RPM remained the same, 8100 RPM. Other props were tried with similar results. I actually had the engine turning a reliable idle at 1100 RPM using an APC 18X6 wide blade and after allowing it idle for 30 seconds, it revved up to 8200 RPM with no hesitation. Sound level was 92db with and 93db without the sound plugs. Next is the flight tests on the Rascal and I did cut away some extra cooling inlet area just ahead of the cylinder head. So far, I like this engine!
Posted on: 8/20/2012 5:48 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199499

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I like the sound of a right angle bend or a wheel collar that goes through a slot in a bracket. Pull the rod, slide it through the slot and it holds until you push it the other way.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 9:03 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195760

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
OK, I'll use the 20 foot measurement, but I'm sure it used to be 25 feet. Maybe that was the IMAA measurement..
Posted on: 8/16/2012 8:14 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195710

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I got my Syssa 180HP just a few days ago and will be mounting it on my test stand this weekend for breaking it in a bit and running some prop and sound tests. I will be using a Vess 18.5 X 5.5 for a base prop with some APC and Zingers as alternates for comparison. Sound tests will be done using a Radio Shack sound meter at 25 feet from the side of the engine. I'll try both with and without the restrictor plugs to see if there is a performance loss with them installed. The engine will be used in a SIG Rascal 110, the new one with flaps, and the complete review of both the plane and the engine will be published in an upcoming issue of High Flight magazine. I may be passing some info along to RCU readers here too. And I do plan to open up the bottom and front of the Rascal cowl as much as possible for adequate cooling. BTW, Todd is now making standoffs that place the spinner at 6" from the firewall, just perfect for us Rascal builders!
Posted on: 8/16/2012 5:39 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195568

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If anyone else is building this kit, you should be getting some "missing" parts in the mail. I recently found that several formers on the upper turtle deck were missing because they were not shown in the manual list of die cut parts.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 10:03 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191670

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have now got 3 wings, a stab, a pair of elevators and a rudder completed. Ailerons will be next followed by the fuselage. I'm widening the LE and TE to use large Robart point hinges. I didn't find any W2A ribs in the box or parts list and these need to be cut from the W1A ply ribs. Also the doublers on the top wing trailing edge were not found. I laminated some 3/32" balsa sheet over the TE and cut away the excess. Balsa USA is now aware of this shortage and subsequent kits will have the manual and parts updated. I looked ahead to see how the Interplane struts attach to the wings and asked BUSA if their method in the book is strong enough. It's a pair of ply strut fittings that fit on both sides of the struts but the blind nut is in the strut, not the other fitting. I suggested using safety nuts on the bolts to clamp the struts between the fittings. You have to look at the book to understand what I am trying to describe. BUSA says their way is OK but my way may work too. You just have to keep up with 16 safety nuts and washers rather than rely on a blind nut. My engine is on the way. Gonna use a Zenoah G-38 (no, not a typo) but attach it to a Toni Clark belt reduction drive that will spin a 32-18 prop at 2800 to 3000 RPM prop speed. Idle should be 700-800 RPM. Also using a Toni Clark canister muffler to keep exhaust noise down under the prop noise. Here's a video link to the G-38 running, both with a 20-6 prop and the 32-18 prop using the Toni Clark Prop Drive. The first part shows running in the G-38, and further on is the prop drive. The noise you hear is mainly the air being sucked into the carb, not the exhaust! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96wQK7SzpIY&list=UUJEDWGIQjOVPP536xV0m3Kg&index=1&feature=plcp .
Posted on: 7/17/2012 4:13 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148818

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was talking to the BUSA gang at Joe Nall and saw the triplane in the air. Plenty of power with the G-62, but I agree it needs to be silences a little more. However, I am looking into the Toni Clark belt reduction drive on a G-38. Should be sufficient power for a 30 pound plane and with a good silencer, low noise. If those plan falls through, it'll be a G-62 with a 24-6 prop. Low budget Dawn Patrol fighter! My kit has already been put on the list for a review project in High Flight Magazine. Here's a YouTube link to the BUSA Triplane landing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaXD5n7J4RE&list=UUJEDWGIQjOVPP536xV0m3Kg&index=1&feature=plcp
Posted on: 6/15/2012 4:05 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090460

RE: Hangar 9 20cc Tiger Moth
All that has changed. All wires and hoses securely tie wrapped to each other.
Posted on: 6/14/2012 10:37 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11118106

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So did Igor in "Young Frankenstien", the movie
Posted on: 6/13/2012 11:01 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11116937

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For Steve Percifield: "Hump? What Hump?"
Posted on: 6/13/2012 8:27 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11116760

RE: NEW BUSA 1/3rd Scale Fokker Triplane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wadda ya know! Mine showed up today. This will probably be the biggest plane I have ever built from such small boxes. I plan to use a good old G-62 but the new electronic ignition version. Not much hardware in the kit so orders are going out today. I plan to do von Richthofen's colors. No, not the Baron, but his brother, Lothar, just like the BUSA prototype model. There's a replica DR1 flying In New Zeland that I will base the model on. Maybe even use the tailwheel. (Heaven forbid...) I did some research on "Fokker Streaked Camouflage" and it looks a lot like the way I paint anyway! Also, the supplied fiberglass cowl measures 14 1/4" wide and 6 1/4" deep. Looks pretty good too
Posted on: 6/13/2012 8:25 AM by Author "pettit" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11116756