RE: Broken 4 Star Spars
So here is my fix for the broken spars on my 4 Star; for each turbulator and the leading edge I epoxied a 3/16 thick spruce spline between the inboard and outboard ribs from the break, epoxied a 3/16x3/8 spruce spline edgewise to the shear blocks and the lower spar between the inboard and outboard ribs, epoxied a 3/16x3/8 spruce spline along side the upper and lower spar spanning from inboard bay towards the wing joint to two outboard bays past the break, I then covered the breaks in the LE, TE and the portion of the spar that extended into the sheeting with fiberglass. Test flight is tomorrow, hopefully no pilot errors this time, I sure hate beating up my 4 Star.
Posted on: 8/14/2009 11:14 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9017415

Broken 4 Star Spars
I broke the upper and lower spars on my 4 Star, very near the root of the wing. The leading edge was also broken and the ribs were pulled from the trailing edge. My main concern is the main spruce sparse, can these be repaired? Recommendations? Thanks, [image][/image]
Posted on: 8/8/2009 6:41 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9000239

RE: Bridi airplane kits by Bluejay Airplane Kits
It appears that knife edges are one advantage of the Dirty Birdy over Kaos. Speed does not seem important in pattern flying so a plane that flys well at lower speeds is not a negative (?). Are there other pros and cons between the Dirty Birdy 60 and Kaos 60 for entry-level pattern flying? How would the Dirty Birdy 60 compare to the Ultra Sport 60 for an entry-level pattern flyer? Thanks
Posted on: 12/7/2008 1:46 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8220578

RE: Bridi airplane kits by Bluejay Airplane Kits
Yes, thanks for the responses, sounds like Bluejay Airplane Kits makes a great product and their and Dirty Birdy is an excellent flier. Time to start saving. Dave, thanks for the link to your Dirty Birdy build thread and the updates you provided to the thread.
Posted on: 12/3/2008 11:38 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8210946

Bridi airplane kits by Bluejay Airplane Kits
I have read a lot of positive discussion concerning the planes designed by Joe Bridi, in particular the Kaos and Dirty Birdy planes. I came across a website for Bridi airplane kits manufactured by Bluejay Airplane Kits (http://www.bridiairplanes.com/index.html). I currently fly a 4 Star 40 and have a lot of skill development to go with the 4 Star but am always looking forward to the next build. I have been planning on an Ultra Sport 60 until I came across the Bluejay Airplane Kits website. Does anyone have experience with the Bridi airplane kits manufactured by Bluejay Airplane Kits, including the Brid Dirty Birdy 60 or the Brid Utter Chaos 60? How do these kits build and would the either of these planes be a good plane for an entry-level pattern flyer? Thanks for your comments
Posted on: 12/2/2008 10:00 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8206940

RE: Sig 4 star 120 canopy
For my 4 Star I cut out the canopy per stock configuration, then, holding the canopy along side the fuselage, I lowered the front of the canopy until the top of the canopy was inline with the angle of the turtle deck and cut the front of the canopy to fit around the front deck of the fuselage, then trimmed the sides to allow for about ¼� overhang. I applied hot air to the front of the canopy to form it around the front deck. Dyed the canopy with black Rit dye and attached the canopy with silicone and small screws.
Posted on: 11/16/2008 11:17 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8152813

RE: Threaded rod backed out of clevis in flight
Thanks for the advice, I'll add a jam nut on to the threaded rod.
Posted on: 9/28/2008 1:23 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7998582

Threaded rod backed out of clevis in flight
Lost rudder control on my 4 Star today, did not realize it until landing, good thing it was the rudder. I am using Sullivan Gold-N- Rods, which have threaded inserts. The threaded push rod end had backed out of the threaded clevis on the servo control horn. I had been adjusted the rudder trim on the first few flights of the morning and then worked on the tail wheel tracking. I have about 32 flights on the 4 Star. The plane runs smooth and does not seem to have a lot of vibration. How should the threaded push rods be secured to the clevis to prevent them from turning? Should I use thread lock on one end of the push rod and leave the other end adjustable? When adjusting the tracking of the Sullivan tail wheel, should I bend the tail wheel axle or the wire of the steering spring that connects the tail wheel to the rudder? Thanks,
Posted on: 9/27/2008 6:41 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7996597

RE: 4*60 canopy questions
Take a look at kmots’s thread Four Star 60 building. By a 54 year old beginner. Post #216 goes into detail about cutting and dying the canopy. Pale Rider posted a photo on 4 Star 40 building has commenced! thread post #81 (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1946922) that shows the pieces that were trimmed from the canopy, post further down details the Rit dye method. For my 4 Star (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6888862) I cut out the canopy per stock configuration, then, holding the canopy along side the fuselage, I lowered the front of the canopy until the top of the canopy was inline with the angle of the turtle deck and cut the front of the canopy to fit around the front deck of the fuselage, then trimmed the sides to allow for about ¼� overhang. I applied hot air to the front of the canopy to form it around the front deck. Dyed the canopy with black Rit dye and attached the canopy with silicone and small screws. Also try this link:http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/sig4star/
Posted on: 8/14/2008 11:19 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7847469

RE: canopy questions for 4*60
Take a look at kmots’s thread Four Star 60 building. By a 54 year old beginner. Post #216 goes into detail about cutting and dying the canopy. Pale Rider posted a photo on 4 Star 40 building has commenced! thread post #81 (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1946922) that shows the pieces that were trimmed from the canopy, post further down details the Rit dye method. For my 4 Star (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6888862) I cut out the canopy per stock configuration, then, holding the canopy along side the fuselage, I lowered the front of the canopy until the top of the canopy was inline with the angle of the turtle deck and cut the front of the canopy to fit around the front deck of the fuselage, then trimmed the sides to allow for about ¼� overhang. I applied hot air to the front of the canopy to form it around the front deck. Dyed the canopy with black Rit dye and attached the canopy with silicone and small screws. Also try this link:http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/sig4star/
Posted on: 1/17/2008 3:51 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6923192

RE: Completed first build; Four Star 40
Thanks for the compliments on my 4 Star and the observation that the landing gear was backwards, I'll spin it around. Checking the plans they do indicate the correct orientation. I am planning to build and electric glider next, likely a Chrysalis or an Oly II. The next glow fuel plane would likely be an Ultra Sport 40 based on the rave reviews it receives on RC Universe, probably should be a kit soon before they are also discontinued.
Posted on: 1/11/2008 6:46 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6891901

RE: 4 Star 40 Control Rod and linkage question
Thanks for the sugestions; I plan to follow kbears suggestions and use all thread to replace the supplied metal on Gold-N-Rods. I will use a plastic clevis on the throttle leakage and trim the motor mount gusset. Thanks again,
Posted on: 1/11/2008 12:51 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6888919

Completed first build; Four Star 40
I have completed building my first kit, a Sig Four Star 40. This was a great kit for a first build, lots of fun. The build took approximately one month including time over the Christmas holiday and lost of puttering and contemplating with beer in hand. The information provided by RC Universe members, their build logs and the LA Aeromodelers club members were a great resource. I incorporated several modification into the build that were recommended by RC Universe members (and a few that were not): I clipped each wing by one bay, drilled vent holes in the ribs and shear block to allow for venting during covering, hardwood blocks for wing hold downs, reinforced the wing sheeting around the aileron servo, added 1/2� triangular stock to support the landing gear mount and at the fin, ¼� triangular stock behind the wing TE between former F3 and F4, replaced the stock control rods with Sullivan Gold N Rods, replaced the stock tail wheel with a Sullivan tail wheel assembly, installed a 10 oz. fuel tank and enlarged the opening in F2 to allow access for the larger tank, sheeted the turtle deck with 1/16 inch balsa and tinted (Rit dye) and trimmed the canopy. I installed a TT Pro .46 engine and Futaba S3004 BB servos and covered the plane with MonoKote, using the Windex method for the stripes. I need to complete the control rod connections and testing. Maiden flight is awaiting the accomplishment of smoother landings with my SR Mach II and decent weather. This build was a lot of fun and very satisfying, I am looking forward to the next project, likely a sailplane after a couple of home maintenance activities. I did learn that I am highly reactive to CA, nasty stuff. Thanks the RC Universe members for their suggestions.
Posted on: 1/11/2008 12:33 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6888862

4 Star 40 Control Rod and linkage question
I’m putting the finishing touches on my 4 Star 40. I used Sullivan Gold N Rod control rods. Per the Sig building instructions (for the stock control rods) I trimmed off the outer Gold N Rod sheath where they exit the fuselage. Reading the directions for the Gold N Rod control rods they say the inner control rod should not extend unsupported more that one inch from the outer sheath, the span from where the control rods exit the fuselage to the control horn is about 2.5 inches. Would this unsupported span be a problem for the Gold N Rod control rods? I have an extra set of short metal control rods from the kit that I could insert into the inner Gold N Rod control rod for support, should I do this to stiffen the Gold N Rod control rods? Also, I ran the throttle cable outside of the engine support, the throttle cable is at the correct elevation but about ¾ inch out from the side of the throttle linkage on the engine (a TT Pro 46) carburetor. If I use the solder-on threaded coupler and a plastic cleaves at the throttle arm (per the building instruction), the solder-on coupler rubs/binds against the engine mount. If I switch the throttle cable end for end and use a (metal) solder-on cleaves at the engine throttle arm the throttle cable is better able to make the bend to the engine throttle arm. However, Sig recommends against a metal-to-metal connection at the engine as it mat cause electrical noise that could affect the radio. I could also trim away some of the engine mount to smooth out the radius for the solder-on threaded coupler. I have about 1/8 inch clearance from the prop to the checks on the 4 Star. Suggestions? Thanks,
Posted on: 1/7/2008 1:17 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6867112

How to cover around tight radius
I am covering my first kit, a Four Star 40 with MonoCot. I having difficulties with covering around the wing seat and the front edges of the checks by the motor, I have cut the covering to conform around the radius but am having difficulties making the covering smooth and getting it to adhere. What are the techniques for covering these areas? Thanks for you assistance,
Posted on: 1/2/2008 12:19 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6840088

RE: four-star 40
will in the 985, What length were the push rods you used and which fuel tank did you use? Assuming a fule tank is not provided with the kit.
Posted on: 11/1/2007 12:35 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6565904

RE: Sky Raider Mach II for FMS
Yes, I fly a Sky Raider Mach II, my first plane after learning on my son's Sky Raider Mach I. Great plane, very responsive and fast. Set some exponential in your transmitter for the ailerons and elevator, use the innermost hole on the aileron control horn. Yep, landing can be exciting, still is for me. The SRM2 glides pretty well but I have found I do need to keep the approach speed up more than with the Mach I to keep the SRM2 from stalling. My SRM2 is a little too responsive with the tail wheel down; much better ground control once the tail comes up on take off. There is a thread on RC Universe discussing take off and landing a tail dragger, may be under Tips And Techniques. Have fun!
Posted on: 10/23/2007 2:15 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6528352

RE: Sky Raider Mach II for FMS
No, I did not receive a response from someone that had developed a Sky Raider Mach II model for FMS, lots of hits on the thread but no offers of a FMS model. I wondered if I should have titled the thread “Wanted- Sky Raider Mach II for FMS�.
Posted on: 10/22/2007 4:09 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6523996

RE: Easy Glider RR equipment install
I fly my Easy Glider RR Electric using a Futaba 6EXA transmitter with a HITEC Electron 6 receiver, my battery is a FlightPower Evo Lite 2100 2S 7.4V LiPo, this battery fits nicely in the EZG allowing room for air circulation. I use the stock motor and gear box set up. Purchase a crystal that is made for the receiver you will be using and match the crystal frequency (channel) to your transmitter. I’m not familiar with the Futaba 4YF, a 4 channel transmitter will fly the Easy Glider, it should not require anything different than your a 2 by 4. The aileron difference and spoiler option that a 6-channel computer radio provides would be nice.
Posted on: 10/10/2007 12:35 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6471962

RE: Magnets for Hatches
How are you attaching the rare earth magnets to the fuselage? I have tried epoxy and hot gluing small rare earth magnets in an EPP foam plane, using two magnets to make the connection but the magnets connect and one is pulled from the adhesive. I tried placing some adhesive slip resistant tape on the back of the magnets then hot gluing it in place but the magnet is still pulled free of the mount. I have not tried using only one magnet and a thumb tack or washer.
Posted on: 10/2/2007 7:11 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6441577

RE: Varying engine tune
I added 5 ounces of Sig castor oil to a gallon of Wildcat Premium fuel (16% oil) to get a total oil content of 20% per da Rocks suggestion. I also looked at the Thunder Tiger owners manual, they also recommend 20% oil content in the fuel, sometimes it does help to read the directions. I have made no other adjustments at this time. Finally got out and flew today, the engine required initial tuning but ran much better. The first flight was a little rich so I leaned it out some. Next flights went well, plenty of power and consistent through out the flights, it may be a little rich at low idle. The engine may still may require a little of fine tunning, I see how the next flying session starts out. It was a warm day in the mid 80s. The plane leaves a light contrail, there is quite a bit oil/fuel mixture on the fuselage but it is now pink not dark. Thanks for the advice.
Posted on: 9/7/2007 4:51 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6339640

RE: Varying engine tune
Thanks for the advice, based upon your responses and that of other club members the first change I will try is to increase the oil content in my fuel mixture by adding extra castor oil to bring the oil content up to 18%. I understand that in addition to lubrication, castor oil assists in remove heat from an engine. The life the extra lubrication would add to the engine would be a bonus and benefit to my other engines. Thanks
Posted on: 8/28/2007 11:18 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6300852

RE: Varying engine tune
I have not run through a whole tank on the ground since prior to its maiden. I'll try it.
Posted on: 8/26/2007 11:49 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6291492

Varying engine tune
I am having difficulties achieving and maintaining a tuned engine. I run a TT46 Pro in a World Models Sky Raider Mach II, using a McCoy MC-8 glow plug and Wildcat Premium fuel; 10% nitro and 16% oil. I have followed the guidance of the engine owners manual, that here on RC Universe and fellow flyers at the field. Using the fuel line pinch test and tach I have set the high idle needle valve at a point richer than the highest rpm, then adjusted the low speed idle to achieve smooth transition to full throttle. Initially I was having difficulties with is loading up on take off and made adjustments to the low speed needle valve, this continues to be a challenge. Now the engine looses power during mid flight with limited throttle response, in response to this I have richened the mixture but then have experience limited power and dead sticked due to an increased fuel consumption rate. On the ground the tune seems to be set correctly. When the tune is good the plane is fast and does not hesitate, but I will get a pretty good tune but the next day, the engine tune requires tweaking. The tune requirements seem to change from day to day and as the engine heats up. The fuel supply line rests against the cylinder, possibly heating up the fuel, I have noted that the engine and fuel pressure line seam to get pretty hot. I have not noticed excessive bubbles in the fuel line; there is some insulation between the fuel tank and the fuselage. There is exhausted fuel on the plane's fusulage, the color of the exhuasted fuel is gray to black, I can also see fuel exhausted when running the plane on the ground, and at times a contrail in the air. Today when the plane lost power a mid flight there was not a visible contrial. Any ideas what may cause this variation in engine tune?
Posted on: 8/26/2007 9:33 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6290742

RE: Brushed motor leads reversed?
Thanks Bad Daddy, Switching the the leads to the motor worked.
Posted on: 8/21/2007 12:32 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6265738

Brushed motor leads reversed?
I had troubles with my speed 400 motor with the Multiplex X-16 speed controller and sent them into Multiplex for repair as they are under warrenty. The problem was with the motor, it was burned out so Multiplex replaced it. I installed the replacement motor and ESC setup and now the motor is running backwards, I thought the problem might be with the servo reversing so I reversed the servo setting but this only reversed the throttle motion. I had tested the motor and ECS prior to installlation but without the prop did not notice the motor was turning back wards. This is the stock brushed speed 400 motor on a Multiplex East Glider. Are the leads from the ESC to the motor connectors reversed?? Are there polarity markings on the speed 400 motor? Should I swithe the leads on the motor? Thanks,
Posted on: 8/17/2007 11:21 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6252615

Sky Raider Mach II for FMS
Does anyone have a World Models Sky Raider Mach II model for FMS or know where I could down load a copy? Thanks,
Posted on: 7/10/2007 12:38 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6091672

RE: Receiver Multiplex Easy Glider Electric
Thanks for the input. Several other fliers also listed the Hitec Electron 6 as their receiver for the Easy Glider.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 11:40 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6091467

Receiver Multiplex Easy Glider Electric
Greetings, What receiver would you recommend for the Multiplex Easy Glider Electric? I plan to purchase the Multiplex Easy Glider Electric RR. I use a Futaba T6EXAP transmitter and would like to stay with a Futaba or Hytec receiver. Would a Hytec HFD-08RD work/fit in an Easy Glider? Can I set up the Futaba T6EXAP transmitter to use spoilers on the Easy Glider (the T6EXAP has a flaps dial)? Thanks,
Posted on: 7/8/2007 1:30 AM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6083363

RE: Hobby Shops in Albuquerque?
Hobbies N Stuff is the best RC hobby shop in Albuquerque. Great people with lots on knowledge that they are willing to share. Hobbies n Stuff is located in the Eastdale Shopping Center, on the Southwest corner of Eubank and Candelaria, at 2801 Eubank NE Unit P, Albuquerque, New Mexico 87112, USA. 505-293-1217. http://www.hobbies-n-stuff.com/
Posted on: 6/28/2007 11:10 PM by Author "pinnedup" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6048876