RE: Gas cans for our gas motors?
Yes. Dave Brown has a Gas kit. [quote]ORIGINAL: SigMan just got my first gass motor and was wondering if it was ok to use my old 6 shooter. do i need to change the fuel lines on it so gas wont eat them up? [/quote]
Posted on: 9/17/2012 2:11 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231444

RE: New 3MM 53cc-TOC gas engine website
Seemed odd to me also. Website link is dead. [quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn Hmmm....Kinda strange....from oct 15 2007....too 7/27 2012....in 3 postings! [/quote]
Posted on: 9/10/2012 1:47 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224078

RE: DLE Engines?
Thanks for the info
Posted on: 8/28/2012 5:41 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209661

RE: DLE Engines?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Truckracer [quote]ORIGINAL: rcagpilot83 sounds good, looking to get the 30cc [/quote] I have two 30s and enjoy them very much. I'd recommend something other than the stock exhaust though. [/quote] Which exhausts do you use? ?
Posted on: 8/28/2012 3:30 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209506

RE: What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
Where did you get the tailwheel assem. Thanks Peter [quote]ORIGINAL: Bob Paris Hay Jim and RCPlanman, I made several mods to my model and one needed beef up to the tail. First I put in a hatch forward of the leading edge of the wing (on top), this was to get access to that part of the nose, to put in my electronic ignition, throttle servo and on/off switch. I used aircraft grade plywood for my hatch cover, for the balsa was way to soft for my liking. Next I installed the landing gear from the Big Stick gas powered model, the 80" version (cost under $20.00 at Tower), for good prop clearence, using 17" props. Your going to need to do this or use other longer landing gear legs then the .60~.90 version gives you in the kit. I made mine a tail dragger...so I installed a heavyer type tail wheel assy, and installed a 1/4" lite ply floor from the foward bulkhead where the front of the wing plugs into, to almost the center wing bulkhead...as a doubler for added strength. My fuel tank is under the wing, right on the CG...240cc-this will give you 15+ minutes of flight. I also used a DuBro anti-vibration engine mount, the 1.20 size...but I'm not sure this was a good idea. I will use a standard engine mount the next time...for this beast vibrates quite a bit. I used 4" wheels and I always install large wheels on my models, due to the trade winds we get here at our flying field. I used Robart scale wheels, with the foam inserts. I like Robart wheels, because they grip the black top the best...much better then any foam tires I've ever tried and they last much longer then the foam type. Both elevator and rudder servo's were placed aft near the tail, one on each side with a 1/8" light ply plate, to support the servo's. I also used 4/40 wires for control rods for all controls. I side mounted the engine, and a home made exit pipe out of one 3/4" copper pipe 90 deg. elbo and a short piece of pipe, for exhaust exit under the model. I had to cut the exhaust exit pipe first, then clamped the extention onto my engine exhaust. I do not like inverted engines...hit hard once and you will cause damage to your engine head and spark plug, so I just side mounted my engine, just like I mount my glow engines. Worked like a charm... : ) I test ran my engine first, with the wing off the model. DO NOT DO THIS...always run the engine with the wing attached. I formed one long crack on the tail, right forward of the leading edge of the stab, up both sides to the exit holes for the control rods-the kit had soft balsa in this area, to soft for all the shaking a two stroke gas engine makes. I needed to make a repair here with Slow Cure CA and 1/64th. quality plywood. I also installed bracing wires on the tail. I also installed two drain holes, using eyelets, on the fuel tank floor. If I ever develope a leak to my fuel tank, the fuel will flow out here and not fuel soak the model. I also CA'd the inside of my model with thin CA, to fuel proof and make the soft balsa used to build my model more strong. The model has a huge wing and even with all the mods and 20cc engine the model came out to a little over 9#'s. I made no mods to the wing...its a stout wing and with nearly 1000 sq. inches, lots of lift here. I am using flaperons on my model too...good for real short take offs and landings. I hope this helps you guys...and I'm still waiting to maiden my model. The winds have been way to high to fly...so waiting for a good day to test fly. Soft Landings Always, Bobby of Maui [/quote]
Posted on: 8/20/2012 8:27 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199644

RE: RCG 20cc question...
Where might I find the rpm readout the bob of maui has on the top of the hatch?
Posted on: 8/19/2012 4:39 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199013

RE: Avistar Engines
[quote]ORIGINAL: jeffie8696 On the lower part of the con rod where the brass bushing is there should be a slight camfer to the opening on one side, the side that faces the crankshaft. The 46 has a different head than the 53. If you get a good one you are golden, if you get a bad one SIG will still stand behind it so you are golden anyway. I have about 7 of em. [/quote] thanks understand. Are you saying that the bushings are on occasion being placed on the wrong way?
Posted on: 5/17/2012 6:35 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11085052

RE: Avistar Engines
[quote]ORIGINAL: airraptor i havent messed with the 46 yet. i need to get off my but and order a couple. it wouldnt hurt to check the rod though. [/quote] Would you explain what you mean by lookng for the radius on the bushing? Peter
Posted on: 5/17/2012 5:50 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11084987

OS .40 FP
Bax, Can you suggest a replacement carb for An O.S. .40 FP other than a Perry? Peter Laurence
Posted on: 3/1/2012 8:49 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10982932

RE: Looking for carbs...
Does anyone have a source for the O.S. .40 FP needle assembly? thanks
Posted on: 2/20/2012 6:07 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10968310

RE: TT Pro 46 BB vs OS 46 AX ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: 747pilot Hello, I'm about to pull the trigger on an engine for my four star 40 and I'm looking for some advice and opinions on two different engines. I've flown only with OS for the past 25 years so it's hard to figure out which either brand might work for me. It's becoming a cost issue where I'm now looking at other brands. So it's now a toss up between the Thunder Tiger Pro. 46 BB vs the OS .46 AX. Any real world experience with both? Prop size, fuel, reliability, troubleshooting, etc... Your .02 cents is appreciated. Have you looked at K&B . Fox? There engines are reasonbly priced with a trade in.
Posted on: 1/23/2012 1:22 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10923624

RE: Best all around 40 size engine
I understand that MVVS is no longer making .40 to .60 engines.
Posted on: 12/10/2011 4:03 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853430

RE: Best all around 40 size engine
[quote]ORIGINAL: piper_chuck [quote]ORIGINAL: larryak Magnum XLS. New about $85.00. Bullet proof,comes with a 3 year warranty and is MADE IN AMERICA. Service ctr in Calif. [/quote] "MADE IN AMERICA"? When did they move here from China? [/quote] Magnum Is not Made in America.
Posted on: 12/10/2011 3:59 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853424

RE: Best all around 40 size engine
I got back into the hobby a couple of years ago. Had O.S. .40s, .45s and .61 Sfs. Had been pickled for 15 years. Started right up and still using them. However, I bought a K&B .18 fro Randy Linsalato at MECOA. Stared and the first flip and took two tanks to break it in. Strong performer. As most of you know, Fox and MECOA manufacture these engines as a side business now. They need to keep there equipment working on other manufacturing jobs to justify staying open. I can see a time in the near future that there will be no more american made engines. Buy american. YES, let's keep supporting China.............they are very very poor and need money for their Nuclear cause................. in keeping with the topic though, the BEST .40 in it's class today is made by Dub Jett, http://www.jettengineering.com/ [/quote]
Posted on: 12/9/2011 6:40 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10851361

RE: Fox Manufacturing- Castor oil
Here's my 2 cents. I agree with you. In my professionI if I misquote a fee I honor it. Was it worth to Fox to loose a customer over seven dollars? [quote]ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r [quote]ORIGINAL: yakfish I honestly don't have a problem with the price. Thats not the problem. But it is a problem when a company gives you a price and then doesn't honor that price. If they had said the price was $11.75 in the first place I still would have bought the oil. If I was runing the business and made that mistake I would feel obligated to ''eat'' the additional cost and honor the price I had given my customer. That's just good business. In business it is not the customers fault the business made a mistake. I almost bought the oil from Sig untill I saw the price from Fox. Next time I will buy it from Sig. [/quote] Well, I cant say exactly what happened.. I can say that there is a strong following to FOX engines, and have long standing relationships with Sharon and the crew at Fox. I stand by my original post that it wasnt intentional. Perhaps you should call Sharon and talk to her to clarify it. I'm certainly not going to tell you to keep buying from them or not.. Thats your call. I just know that getting bitter over a $7.75 mistake that they emailed you about and posting about it here probably isnt the best thing to have done. Call them and take it up with them. Keep in mind, a gallon of castor oil weighs like 9-10 pounds. If I was quoted a shipping charge less than 10$ from Arkansas to Ohio, I would ask "that doesnt sound right.."... I ain't trying to beat you up. Go about however you want, but they are charging you what you should be charged. Period. A word of advice mixing fuel with Castor... It will pour and mix better if its warmed up a little bit first. Its a thick oil when cold (below 65°F) [/quote]
Posted on: 11/1/2011 7:04 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10792904

RE: use this oil?
I pickled fiveO.S. .61 SFs that I bought in 1991. I put them away. Flooded them with Corrosion -X, placed in a baggie and put them away in 1996. I took them down from the attic a year or so ago . Flushed them out with glow fuel and they started right up. Took the engines apart and had no rust !. I live 5 blocks from the ocean in South Florida.Everything rusts. Well, almost everything. [quote]ORIGINAL: fiery I live by the sea. It is also hot and humid in Summer. No after run oil = rust in short order where I am. I use a mix of 50% air tool oil and 50% ATF. I don't really care what additives may be in it. It works with no side affects. Others use WD40, Inox ( al local thicker version of WD40) or sewing machine oil. All seem to work to some dogree and all are definitely better than nothing. [/quote]
Posted on: 10/31/2011 1:42 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791005

RE: Irvine engines
WoW! Thanks for this. I bought an Irvine .40 in 1991. Flew it for a few years and put it away. Took it down fron the attic last year and it started right up and had no rust. (pickled with CorrosonX). [quote]ORIGINAL: fiery Don, for the Irvine .40 Carb. The quantity for all pieces is one (1) each. Part No Description S-CJ-1235 Needle (main jet) S-CJ-1200 Main Jet S-CJ-1201 Needle Valve Assembly S-CJ-1112 Body assembly S-CJ-1255B Cam Screw S-CJ-1179 Barrel S-CJ-1245 Throttle arm S-CJ-1240 Barrel nut S-CJ-1250 Secondary needle S-CJ-1282 Spring clip S-CJ-1277 Fuel nipple assembly S-CJ-1270 Barrel spring S-CJ-SK006 Overhaul kit My engine list give the part number for the complete carburetor as p/n S-CJ-1850. "O" rings will be in the overheaul kit. Part No: X-IRVCJ-SK006 Name: Carb. Overhaul Kit - Jetstream Price: £2.25 Look at page 40 in the Ripmax listing and click on the part no. It suits your carb. [/quote]
Posted on: 10/27/2011 6:45 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10784831

RE: Club FOX!
What is a stinger and MAPS gas? [quote]ORIGINAL: fujiman i'd use maps gas and aluminum solder rod from welding supply. stringer of course would have to be aluminum also. polk some holes in a pop can and experiment with the alum. solder to get a feel for it. maps gas burns cleaner than propane gas and others. i was able to try this method out at a trade show and fell in love with it and have used this method since. hope this helps. [/quote]
Posted on: 10/26/2011 11:28 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10783652

RE: Methanol prices
Does anyone know where I can buy methanol in the South Florida area?
Posted on: 10/26/2011 4:51 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10783101

RE: FUEL CONTAINER JUG QUESYION PLEASE:
Maybe we should tell the manufacturers! [quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye Use a container that does not let light shine through [/quote]
Posted on: 10/21/2011 7:40 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775963

RE: FUEL CONTAINER JUG QUESYION PLEASE:
Look up HDPE containers on the net.The problem is that it costs $15. to ship a $ 3.00 container. Or... Go to the Dollar store and pay $2.00 for a half gallon of draino. Pour it down your sinks and use the bottle in your flight box. [quote]ORIGINAL: Turqui I HAVE A FIEL BOX AND THE GALLONG OF GLOW FUEL IS TOO TALL; I WILL LIKE TO REPLACE IT WITH A SMALLOR GONTAINER; WHAT COULD I USE THAT WOULD BE SAFE TO TRANSPORT AND USE AS A GLOW CONTAINER JUG? THANKS. [/quote]
Posted on: 10/20/2011 4:34 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775163

RE: Engine to be buried with when the time comes
I bought a New Fitzpatrick .61 in 1991. Ihave it on display in my living room. Never run. This IMHO is the most beautiful 2 stroke ever made. Yep, this goes with me!
Posted on: 10/19/2011 10:28 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10773193

RE: Club FOX!
Thanks. I've never owned a fox. Usually buy my engines from MECOA. It would be nice if Fox would at least have a desription of their engines. Want to compete with the Chinese and Japanese? As they state on their website, they do outside work. I guess this is probably not their core business anymore.
Posted on: 10/16/2011 4:34 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10768463

RE: Club FOX!
Does anyone know the difference between the Fox .40 BB standard and the deluxe? Thanks
Posted on: 10/16/2011 1:16 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10768144

RE: K&B Branching out.
I just bought a K&B .18 Never owned one. Used on a Bill Evans Simitar wing and a fuse that I designed around it. Awesome engine. Started on one flip of the prop . Broke it in as per directions. It purrs. Yes, it's more expensive that Sino engines. But, Randy gives fairly good deals on trade- ins. Buy American BTW, Randy Linsalato has purchased over forty companies in the last thirty years. And... Where else can you call a company and have the owner answer the phone.
Posted on: 9/23/2011 6:51 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730307

RE: MVVS in U.S.
Pe, I noticed on the MVVS web site that MVVS does not make a .40 to .55 ci . Why? Peter
Posted on: 9/14/2011 12:01 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10716494

MVVS in U.S.
Is there a distributer in the U.S.? If not where can I get one?
Posted on: 9/13/2011 6:16 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "MVVS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10715330

RE: I'm beginning to love Enyas
I have a Enya .19 whgich is probably 20 years or more old. Haven't run in in twent years. After reading your post, will have to build someting for it. Maybe a Bill Evans Simitar like the slow Motion
Posted on: 7/14/2011 10:30 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10620979

RE: The End is Near!
[quote]ORIGINAL: gkamysz BTW, the title was selected in jest. If the largest manufacturer of glow engines has made this move you can't deny the truth. [/quote] Come on all. I've been in the hobby since 1960. Heard this all before. There will always be a market for glow. Some folks need the smell of the greasepaint-the roar of the crowd.
Posted on: 5/12/2011 11:37 AM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10515962

RE: Do you always get what you pay for?
Yes it was MECOA I don't know how they stay in business. I sent a few emails and they never answered. Called them a while back and felt like I was a bother. [quote]ORIGINAL: dennis [quote]ORIGINAL: plaurence Want to but american? Have you tried to buy a .48 lately? Production is ''in process'' which means 2 to 12 weeks!! [/quote] If it's MECOA your talking
Posted on: 3/11/2011 5:42 PM by Author "plaurence" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10394229