RE: Need opinions on what could be wrong
Hi Peter, I noticed in your opening post that you set the ESC's at a soft cut-off. I accidently had done this at one of my ESC's and the runtime was 'dramatically' short (2-3 minutes), compared to the runtime at the hard cut-off setting, which allowed me to run until the LVC cut in at 3,3V per cell. Now that a new ESC seems to have solved the issue, I was wondering if that one was set to soft cut-off aswel, or not? Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 12/17/2011 4:01 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10863330

RE: Gyro for trim tab control?
Hi Dean, If you're going to try this in a medium speed scale build, it may be worth a try, but you may be right as to the correction always being a bit late... The faster you go, the more the correction will lag behind, possible making things worse in terms of riding attitude. If it's a fast electric; trimtabs are a bandaid for a poor set-up, so don't bother, just get the set-up right. Another option might be to adjust stabiliser fins , sticking out of the hull like on the Drumbeat of Devon. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 12/17/2011 3:40 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10863321

RE: old Robbe Diabolo help needed...?
on the table, like this: [IMG]http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/pompebled-albums...://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/pompebled-albums-nood-uit-picture13327-turnfin-reduced.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/pompebled-albums-nood-uit-picture4014-mes-als
Posted on: 3/20/2011 5:55 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10411068

RE: old Robbe Diabolo help needed...?
Hi Colosus, I assume you know the 1300-9 needs watercooling on both can and brushtabs, to keep is alive on 20-24 cells NiMH or 7-8S Lipo? I added a picture of my 1300-7 with a custom made waterjacket and brushtab cooling, very efficient, but I strongly advice agains runtimes of more than three-four minutes continuously, as these motors were not (I repeat: NOT!) designed to run for much longer under max load (as they are designed for (sail) planes). If you run longer, the motor will overheat and the commutor will shed solder, which effectively ruins the motor, as the segments of the commutor will fly off. Plettenberg can repair the motor, but at considerable cost. Before the brushless motors took over, a lot of German boaters running Plettenbergs, had huge radial fans coupled to the cooling slots of the commutor, blowing a lot of air through the motor in an attempt to keep the temperature down for 5-6 minutes. They also had watercooling on the can and brushtabs, so the whole set-up was quite elaborate. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 3/20/2011 3:32 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10411079

RE: Prince 25
Nice work Bass! I noticed in your previous set-up that you cooled the motor first and the ESC last, I'd reverse that in the current set-up, as the motor heats up the water substantually more than the ESC, which will receive lukewarm water in a worst case scenario if it came from the motor... (don't know how hot your summers are, but overhere we prop down when it's too hot to keep the motor and ESC cooled sufficiently) If the tubing on the heatsink works sufficiently, keep it, a new cooler where the water flows through the aluminum block is more efficient, so that's an option to keep in mind. If you do change that, make the effort to flatten the fets, so all make contact with the heatsink. Make sure to turn the waterjacket on the motor so the exit is on top, to avoid having no water in the top part of the jacket. Keep the video's coming! Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 3/20/2011 2:32 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10411055

RE: turborix 2.4 tx will not set with forward only esc, pls help!
Hi PM, If the ESC in question, or the TX at hand, gives you so much 'trouble', why not get another cheap tx/rx set from HC for this boat (and other boats that don't need a selfcentering stick, like a sailboat)? I've used this one on a speedboat: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8338 One antenna parallel under the deck, the second one vertical in a short straw, works like a charm... Only when running in a straight line away from the transmitter, the spray sometimes interfered with the reception, but generally no problems. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 12/16/2010 1:26 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10201076

RE: turborix 2.4 tx will not set with forward only esc, pls help!
Hi PM, Did you consider a ratchet for that stick? I have one on my transmitter and use it for speedboats (forward only) and scale boats with reverse alike. Finding the center/zero point can be a bit fiddly, but it works for me... Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 12/15/2010 9:37 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10198705

RE: Help picking the right boat.
Hi Darren, A rigger is the fastest of the lot, it holds the world speed record with 140 mph, give or take a few miles... Now that particular one is the result of a team effort and a lot of money. If you don't want to be thát fast, something like a Demon rigger would be very quick aswel. Mind you, you'll have to set it up yourself, off the shelf nothing comes even close to (that) fast... A scratchbuild of the Predator rigger would go fast too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe0qxxA5_5E&feature=player_embedded Or this ones: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8bb9DilFoY Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 11/18/2010 4:15 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10143730

RE: Shockwave 26 Brushless.
Hi Rich, Now that's what I call service! I'm thrilled for you, go get them wet! Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 11/13/2010 5:57 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10132451

RE: RE Hobby King radio 2.4
Hi Larry, For scale and sail they work fine. It may be an idea to get a seperate receiver for each model, to save time and trouble swapping from boat to boat. I'm running all my models from a single transmitter (Graupner MC-12) and have several receivers, one for every model that's loaded in the car when going to the lake. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 11/12/2010 3:21 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131419

RE: RE Hobby King radio 2.4
Hi Blizard, As long as your transmitter can 'see' the boat (no obstructions by buildings etc.) these 2,4 sets even work on speedboats, where the roostertail is notorious for blocking the radio signal. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 3:28 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10128256

RE: ESC Help
Hi syog100, Usually having seperate cooling lines for the ESC and the motor isn't really necessary, but it doesn't hurt either... The water that runs through the ESC first only gets a bit warmer, so the motor gets plenty of cooling, at least in our 31,5" Arowana set-ups. As the occasional prop breaks running in competition, I usually run Graupner K-series props, they are carbon fibre reinforced and much stiffer than the plastic stock props that come with the boat. Start with a 42K and work your way up, 45K usually is the limit, you'll know when the motor won't rev out at speed and things get hot inside; lipo, ESC, motor. Once youve found the best carbon propsize you could replace that with a similar metal one, more expensive, but more efficient too. Most do need sharpening and balancing, so you'll have another craft to learn... Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 11/10/2010 5:15 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10127255

RE: ESC Help
Hi syog100, I added a picture of the Mystery ESC without the shrinkwrap and the cooling plate; as you can see there are two PCB's with the powerfets and on the underside of the bottom one is the processor unit. It's rather pointless to cool that side as there's very little to cool... If you want to go overboard on the watercooling, it's possible to separate the two PCB's and rebuild the ESC with a cooling plate between the two (which consists of a brass plate with water tubing soldered onto the sides outside the PCB). For the motor at hand this elaborate cooling is overkill, and very labour intensive aswel, I once added double cooling plates to a 100A Mystery, it worked very well, for about a year, until the ESC got wet (poof...). I have some pictures of how I did that, let me know if you want to try that and I'll upload them. Wait, there must be an old topic called 'watercooling a Mystery ESC', try the search function, the pictures should be there. Found it: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7948096/anchors_7948096/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7948096 Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 11/10/2010 11:51 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10126622

RE: can i make it turn better
Hi Tony, What you describe is typical for a surface piercing drive, as your boat has, it's called propwalk; the rotation of the prop, combined with the fact only one blade is in the water, will make the boat turn right much easier and narrower than left. Putting the rudder behind the prop doesn't change much, other than that you'll have more propwalk, as the rudder next to the prop, as it is now, counteracts propwalk. If you want a boat with an equal response left and right, go for an eco, small underwaterprop and a rudder behind the prop, it'll turn on a dime. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/25/2010 8:10 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10092568

RE: 46
Hi Woody, 4-6 knots is walking speed... Look here, I think your dad will like this better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OD9dnbj8bJA&feature=channel_page If I can find the thread on the Mayhem forum I'll post the link here, or take a look yourself...(enter "Huntsmen"in the search function in the Power, Race, Leisure & Sports Boats section and enjoy the read: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?board=91.0 The boat in the video is powered by a large outrunner, geared down (or up, can't remember)... Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/15/2010 3:14 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10070694

RE: Couple of boats to choose from
Hi Madworm. The Shockwave and SV27 are well known, the V24 is the most scale looking boat, but it has the same motor as the much smaller Arpro, the 3635 1520KV outrunner is way too small for this size boat. Also a universal joint is not an item that should be used in a fast electric. Basically, the hull is the only item of the V24 that could be used again; you'll need new hardware, a motor, ESC and Lipo(s). As the V24 is one of the stunning looking Dragon boats it's also better to look at it rather than run it, specially with better hardware and a motor that will make it go 50 mph. Reason for this is the brittle gelcoat with the softer glasscloth and vinylester layer underneath, just running the boat will cause hairline cracks in the surface... As you're in the UK take a look here: http://www.astecmodels.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=24_46 Keep in mind that fast electrics have few details for a reason, they simply fall off or get damaged while running the boat. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/11/2010 10:14 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10061353

RE: LiPo Q
Hi John, Running lipo's in a 'hot' set-up requires pre-heating the lipo to 40°C prior to the run, failing to do so may result in bloating. This is a 'normal' response of a Lipo that's been put 'cold' in the boat and 'tortured' with high ampdraw. I didn't know that and have a few packs that are bloated, I still run them without any problems, other than some drop in capacity. Pre-heating the packs makes the difference, specially is you're running budget Lipo's like I do. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/5/2010 9:24 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10048671

RE: sealing holes without useing rubber boot
Hi Peter, If you don't like the looks of the rubber boots, mount them inside the boat. But on the water and at speed, who's going to notice if the boots are on the inside or outside...? Main point seems to me, is to have a reliable and watertight steering sytyem. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/3/2010 2:15 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10044572

RE: brushless recomendation
Hi Andy, I've been running the KD motors too and found them to be amphogs, if your hull runs light (pictures please?) this one draws less current and should work too: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6527&Product_Name=Turnigy_B36-56-04_2600kv_Inrunner Cooling is done with a jacket such as this: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-mjacket Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/2/2010 5:15 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10042070

RE: Surface drive design/tuning help
I'll wait for the pictures, but it sounds like there's a flaw in your set-up somewhere... Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/2/2010 5:02 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10042065

RE: ESC Help
Bug away, that's what a forum is about. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 10/2/2010 4:47 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10042057

RE: ESC Help
Yes, A watercooled 100A ESC is sufficient for the 1880KV motor. Short leads between the Lipo('s) and the ESC are also important. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/30/2010 5:11 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10038683

RE: ESC Help
Hi syog100, Our moderately set-up Arowana's run 65+ km/h (40+ mph), with a faster motor, or a 5-6S Lipo 50 mph is possible. As a cat generates lift, it will run faster than our monohulls, but needs to make wide turns at speed, so watch out on your 'semi small lake', you may run out of water fast. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/30/2010 2:43 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10038322

RE: ESC Help
Hi syog100, I assume you got this cat? http://r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail.php?prod=rcbt0402001_code I run the R2hobbies Arowana, which has the same motor, I get about 6-7 minutes runtime with a 5000mAh 4S1P 25C Lipo. I use a 100A watercooled Mystery ESC, which gets warm after a full six minute run. As the max motor current is 47A, which it [u]will[/u] draw getting out of the hole, probably close to double that amount, I doubt if a 60A ESC, properly watercooled will cope... As all RTR boats (there's no such thing as ready to run! At best the boat is assembled at the factory, often not very good either...) the cat needs to be checked for leaks, all bolts tightened and secured with Loctite, the drive train lubed and alligned. Don't assume the Chinese did this for you, do it yourself! If you want to run two packs, put them in the sponsons with Velcro and connect them in series, if you use two 2S packs, or in parallel if you use two 4S packs. Getting the weight down from the tunnel is good for the CoG and improves the handling. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/30/2010 12:35 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10038032

RE: ESC Help
Mystery with the heatsink off: [IMG]http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/pompebled-albums...://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/pompebled-albums-regelaarkoeling-picture7675-boorpatroon.jpg[/IMG...://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/members/pompebled-albums-regelaarkoeling-picture4110-finished.jpg[/IMG] Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/30/2010 8:30 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10037541

RE: Best Boat for a 10 yr. Old
Hi Salescall, As (close to) all RTR boats are manufactured in China these days, keep in mind there's no such thing as RTR! The boats are assembled at best (often not very good) and you are the one that has to make the boat ready for the water: - check all bolts and nuts, use loctite where required - check for leaks and fix them prior to tunnig the boat - allign and lube the drive train, check if the coupler grubscrews are not overtighted (damaging the flexshaft) and secure with loctite. Great as it looks, my biggest issue with the Shockwave is the steering outdrive, the universal coupler is something that doesn't belong on a fast electric! Did you check out the new supervee27? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=dh-AQUB23 Slightly more expensive, but a lot more 'speedboat' than the Shockwave. You can see in the video that it's fast... I know it's hard to judge from a video, but 30+ mph is really fast on the water, specially for a ten year old. My son was eight when he held his first transmitter, sixteen years later he's beating me on a regular basis in the national competition we're racing in together... Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/24/2010 8:20 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10023876

RE: 7.2v Ni-cd switch to Ni-mh?
Hi Mac, Better keep all questions related to youe Apache in one thread, to avoid scattering the information. As the Apache is a RTR, running it with more mAh batteries will increase the runtime and the heat build up in motor and ESC. You can add brushtab cooling to the motor to keep it cooler and add watercooling to the ESC. If you run the stock boat on a bigger capacity battery, check frequently if things don't get too hot, once you open the hatch and things smell funny, you've crossed the line. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/20/2010 4:21 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10015333

RE: So much info! Having trouble piecing it together.
Hi Mac-9-, Welcome to the wet side! I hope you realize that by buying the Apache 24, you purchased a RTR boat where the manufacturer has cut all corners to bring the cost down... Effectively this means you can't put on a bigger prop, or the same size with more pitch without overheating the motor and ESC, or, the most simple way to go quicker, add one cell to your 7,2V pack and run on 8,4V without checking with Proboat if the ESC can cope with that. By the way; cooling; is your cooling coil fitted as in the pictures on the Proboat site? If so please move it towards the transom, so the cooling slots in the motor aren't covered by it (morons...). Changing the 550 motor for a bigger 600 motor (the Graupner SPEED 600 RACE 7,2 V Best.-Nr. 6370, springs to mind) and running it on 7 cells NiMH should make quite a difference in speed. Most likely you'll need a more beefy ESC to cope with the higher ampdraw. The steering outdrive is something I'm not particular fond of, once you get beyond a certain speed, the steering becomes 'problematic' and the boat will react violently to too much rudderthrow, flipping it is a real possibility, so make sure to tape the hatch watertight. Also, with more power comer greater wear and tear on the steering outdrive, I've managed to wear out the stock bushings on a Academy cat in ten runs just by changing the propulsion from a pair of 550, geared down, to a direct drive 700 Neodym motor. The next thing that will fail is the universal coupler, such an item has no place on a fast electric imho. Basically what I'm saying is; don't try and push this boat too far, moderate upgrades will make it run fine, overdoing it will result in a pile of ABS rubble. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/20/2010 4:16 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10015319

RE: 5'pt boat finally done
Hi Rye, Your boat looks impressive on the water, congrats! The bow wave running up to the deck is taking a lot of power, add some sprayrails to deflect the bow wave sideways and the boat will run longer on one charge. Getting such a large and heavy hull on the plane will require a higher voltage, a couple of 4S Lipo's should do the trick. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/20/2010 7:41 AM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10014247

RE: BRUSHLESS MOTOR ESC
Hi Steve, this is the motor in your cat: http://bidproduct.com/part/Product_view_BRUSHLESS%20MOTOR_234.html It's a medium sized 540, drawing 47A max. I'm running the Arowana monohull with it on 4S and a mild(ish) set-up gives me 6 minutes of full throttle runtime with a topspeed of just over 40 mph, running on a 5000mAh 4S1P 25C lipo. Props from 42 mm up. With a 80-100A ESC you should be fine, provided the ESC is watercooled. Regards, Jan.
Posted on: 9/19/2010 4:45 PM by Author "pompebled" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10013010