RE: Stuck Cases - Soak, Heat, Beat???
Hey JP! I've been using Berryman (sp?) carb cleaner, that comes in a 1 gallon metal (looks like a paint ) can... That stuff will dissolve just about anything non metallic, so you gotta remove plastic parts, etc.
Posted on: 6/27/2012 11:07 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11133983

RE: Obscure Perry Carb Feature
This reminds me of when the Perry backplate pump / carb sets were first becomming available...mid 70's... A friend bought one for his O.S. .60 FSR in his Kwik Fli III...(engine mounted upright) He fiddled and fiddled with that slide valve adjustment for days...flying back and forth..upright, then inverted...burned a couple gallons...[:)] After all that, he said that the adjustments didn't seem to make any difference...
Posted on: 4/21/2012 11:48 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11051801

RE: Need some ideas on putting balsa on foam wings.
[quote]ORIGINAL: goirish I guess I was thinking about the pink or blue because it seems to cut a lot smoother. I seem to get ridges in the white foam. maybe I am doing something wrong when I try to cut the white. [/quote] FWIW, I haven't done a whole lot of foam cutting, but I have helped a buddy a few times... The temp of the wire...the dia. of the wire...and the speed at which you cut thru the foam all contribute to smoothness (or lack of same ) of the finished product. IIRC my friend said that he likes to use a smaller dia. wire when cutting white foam...the white, being less dense, will cut easier... The pink or blue might actually need a heavier wire, for strength, as you make the cuts thru the harder foam? The heavier Ga. wire needs more current to heat it.... Too much heat is your enemy, especially with white foam which will melt so easily... Those are just some of the small tidbits of info I seem to recall while helping....hope I recalled correctly. Some of the other guys w/ more experience hopefully will add to it? HTH
Posted on: 11/30/2011 10:21 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10836371

RE: Need some ideas on putting balsa on foam wings.
Generally speaking, the white is less dense....and lighter... The pink or blue, being stiffer, can add a small element of additional strength. One brief story... Back when we were mid-teenagers, (mid 70's ) I helped a friend sheet the wings of his Midwest Mach 1 with 1/64" ply... We were told to put "plenty of weight" on the foam shucks to ensure that the skins would be well adhered. We used an entire set of Encyclpedia Britannica... Well...the white foam cores were a bit "squished" ya might say...and the T.E....instead of being about 3/8" thick @ the root, and 1/4 @ the tips...well they were about half that thick...[X(][:@] The pink or blue foam will be more resistant to "squishing"... just in case you are now wondering about that sorta thing...[:D]
Posted on: 11/30/2011 10:04 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10836342

RE: Need some ideas on putting balsa on foam wings.
Malcom...my experiences with Foam Safe CA is that it NEEDS Accelerator or "kicker" to make it cure. That would be kind of hard to do (apply ) if you inject the glue into the wing thru small holes...that type of CA will stay wet for a looonnnggg time if you don't spritz it w/ kicker. I have used slow cure Epoxy...injected thru small (approx. 1/8" diameter ) holes at each end of the seperation ara. I drill a vent hole as well as a glue injection hole, so that the epoxy can travel thru and across the void then come out the vent hole. The excess can also ooze out after you apply weights to push the sheeting back down. Wipe off excess epoxy that oozes out with a cotton cloth wet with Acetone asap. Then touch up the holes with paint or iron-on covering.
Posted on: 11/30/2011 12:24 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10835847

RE: Need some ideas on putting balsa on foam wings.
I agree...IMO slow cure Epoxy is the best way to go as far as strength and longevity is concerned. Your skins will never seperate from the foam cores. I have used the 4" foam rollers with success...much easier to apply the Epoxy than using a squeegie...and quicker, and you get a nice even / thin coat. A friend that has designed and built many more airplanes than I, tried the double sticky carpet tape a few times...several years ago....and the wings / stabs that he did that way are seperating (de-laminating? ) in some areas. Exposure to heat / cold / humidity, etc. has something to do with that I think.
Posted on: 11/29/2011 12:05 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10834053

RE: This is crazy dangerous!
How 'bout all that dust and grit that gets into the mechanicals and electronics of the Tx? How 'bout when the radio "mysteriously" fails somewhere down the (time ) line, and the airplane crashes...or just sorta starts acting weird...the next time he tries that stunt...[8|] Hey...whatever dude...if you want to set a great example of your flying "skill" then who's stopping ya?[;)] Is Japan a liberal state? (just wondering...)
Posted on: 11/25/2011 2:14 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10828002

RE: This is crazy dangerous!
I wonder how much sand got blown into his transmitter? [8|] Betcha those stick gimbals feel really swell now... If he keeps up w/ doing that sort of thing, I have a hunch we'll be hearing of some dim wit who decapitated himself with his CAP 580...
Posted on: 11/24/2011 10:08 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10827214

RE: What is a good engine for a Tower Kaos?
This is the Beginners Forum...not the Pattern Forum...the O.P. was asking about an appropriate engine for his Tower Kaos...(he's going from a Trainer, to the Kaos...remember?!? ) SP...if you want to get pedantic, go right ahead...(typical...[8|] ) It will also fly quite slowly, and do that well too...mine has no bad habits at (very ) slow speeds...doesn't drop a wing when it stalls...over-all it's an excellent flyer, as are most of Joe Bridi's designs. BTW my friend has an original ".40 size" Kaos and when they are sitting SXS there is virtually no difference, except in the shape of the nose area. The Tower Kaos has a nose section much like the original 1970 Kaos, and predecessors. That being said... I would suggest to pay particular attention to the aileron linkages in the T.E. of the wing...of the 3 Tower Kaos's that are in our clubs, all 3 have had sloppy torque rod bearings, and needed to be fixed during assembly. The elevator linkage w/ the wheel collars connecting the 2 p-rods is Mickey Mouse, and should be wrapped / soldered for best results IMO. I agree w/ the above posters that say the covering is not very good...some of ours (all 3 ) started comming off after a few flights.
Posted on: 11/21/2011 10:40 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10822423

RE: What is a good engine for a Tower Kaos?
A strong .40 would fly it (the Tower Kaos ) well...a TT .40 or Magnum, OS FX, or even a Fox there SP [;)][:D] My Tower Kaos is actually a bit lighter than the old Bridi Kaos Junior, which has a lot of relatively thick sheet balsa (no "lightening holes" ) and balsa blocks in the fuselage. The wings are virtually identical...
Posted on: 11/21/2011 8:36 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10822263

RE: Club MVVS
I see it's in good hands now...very nice...[8D] Wish my "distractions" were as attractive...[:D] The guy I got it from couldn't get it to run properly...gave up on it, and sold it to me along w/ some other stuff as a package deal...
Posted on: 11/20/2011 7:14 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10821621

RE: What is a good engine for a Tower Kaos?
The Tower Kaos is basically a .40 sized Kaos Jr. or Jr. Kaos (whichever it was called back in the early 70's ) and a K&B .40 was typical for the day. A friend had an HP .40 w/Tarno carb on his...made a very nice combination. Both of those are very light engines... I have a Webra .50 in my Tower Kaos, and it is way more than sufficient. Any modern .46 would be plenty, and with the O.S..55 it would be quite fast...perhaps a bit more than you're ready for...but...there is a throttle on the engine...[;)][:D] Edit: Mine wound up quite nose heavy with the Webra .50 and TT spinner. A check of the weights of your potential engines is recommended. I had to move my battery pack back behind the wing...had to cut a hatch in the bottom of the fuselage just behind the wing.
Posted on: 11/20/2011 9:31 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10820835

RE: Club MVVS
I have an MVVS .21 and a .49 Had a 1.20 twin, but I sold it to a guy in Hervey Bay Queensland...fiery...you might know him?[;)][:D]
Posted on: 11/20/2011 9:13 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10820800

RE: Airplane identification
The first 2 pics are definitely of an FB 100 It was one of the first true ARF's available in the mid '70's...Tower sold them for about a hundred bucks. The foam wings are covered w/ very thin cardboard, and has a formed ply fuse. skin...great flying airplane. It came fully assembled... with fuel tank and pushrods installed...quite an airplane for it's time. I had one for a while, as did several of my friends...K&B .61's for power.
Posted on: 11/6/2011 10:03 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10800265

RE: tear down of satio 56 need help
I use a cheap 2 jaw puller... I have "massaged" the jaws w/ a Dremel, to fit the radius of the driver's groove. Then with substantial pre-load, I then heat the prop driver, then smack the end of thr puller screw with a quick rap w/ a light hammer. The driver usually pops right off.
Posted on: 10/30/2011 3:45 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10788954

RE: Saito 180
A friend had a similar problem... I drilled a new hole for the fitting and screwed it in...then plugged the old hole.
Posted on: 10/26/2011 11:13 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10784599

RE: MRC .61
I think this engine has the same E. stack dimensions as the front I. version? The muffler has wire spring clips type of attachment (hard to describe ) and slips over the E. stack for alignment. It uses std. compression rings...Mr. Bowman should be able to hook you up...[8D]
Posted on: 10/23/2011 12:14 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10778821

RE: K&B .61
The wrist pin probably has varnish / gum on it...or maybe rust...that can cause problems when trying to remove the pin. Soaking with penetrating oil, and some heat can help...and a lot of patience...[8|][:D] (maybe a few carefully chosen *&^%$# words too [:@][;)] )
Posted on: 10/17/2011 11:00 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10770708

RE: Webra 61F Speed-NIB need advice
From the description, you have a 1970's vintage Mac's "Flow Thru" muffler...they are LOUD...and don't provide a whole lot of tank pressure. The Mac's (black, tubular ) "one piece" muffler might be a better choice, and it comes in a strap on version so you won't need to drill / tap holes in the engine.
Posted on: 10/16/2011 8:35 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10767818

RE: Name this kit
Might be an 'Ole Tiger? The Cassutt has a constant chord wing...correct? The 'Ole Tiger resembles a Cassutt, but has a tapered wing planform.
Posted on: 10/15/2011 6:48 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10767189

RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Ya think Ernie will come back and say..."no, that's not it either..keep guessing" [8|][;)][:D] ???
Posted on: 10/6/2011 10:50 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10751495

RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
WOW...yeah, you could call that "obscure" [:D] Good one guys! Never seen, or even heard of that one before...
Posted on: 10/6/2011 9:44 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10751401

RE: Reno crash
According to info from telemetry, (found on AAFO message board ) the positive G's peaked or "spiked" at 22.6! Then stayed at 11G for a few seconds...
Posted on: 9/25/2011 6:50 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733945

RE: P_51 Mustang crashes into crowds at Reno
According to info from telemetry, the positive G's peaked or "spiked" at 22.6 then stayed at 11G's for a few seconds. AAFO has a message board...that's where I got the above info...
Posted on: 9/25/2011 6:48 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733940

RE: P_51 Mustang crashes into crowds at Reno
The pictures of the "oil canning" on the aft fuselage got me thinking... Wondering now if it was caused by flight loads on the horizontal stab or...perhaps heat from the boil-off tank(s ) being right in that general area??? Could it be, that perhaps the tank(s ) that the radiators were immersed in were hot enough that heat radiated out to the inner surface of the fuse skin in that area? You see steam comming out of the vent pipe(s ) so, the MW50 (Methanol-Water in a 50/50 mixture ) used as the boil-off fluid was obviously getting quite hot. Another thing I recall reading...somewhere...(I have read so many forums on this...not sure where it was now ) was that there was a "pop" sound heard just before the pitch-up. Could that be the trim tab linkage breaking...or perhaps something in the boil-off plumbing bursting...perhaps damaging the control linkage?
Posted on: 9/22/2011 8:44 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10728879

RE: P_51 Mustang crashes into crowds at Reno
http://macsblog.com/2011/09/why-the-trim-tab-on-a-racer-matters-so-much/
Posted on: 9/22/2011 12:36 AM by Author "proptop" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10728456

RE: .46 Engine Prop combo for best torque?
You might also try an APC 12.25 x 3.75
Posted on: 9/21/2011 9:54 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10728367

RE: Where to buy STS engines?
There are a couple of other places mentioned in this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5252136/anchors_9975392/mpage_36/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9975392 Lots of reading...don't know how many are still in business?
Posted on: 9/20/2011 5:45 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10726478

RE: Silver case Tee Dee.
ridenfligh on ebay was (might still be? ) selling his Aluminum carb bodies in black, or red anodizing, or natural Alum.
Posted on: 9/18/2011 10:53 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10723510

RE: Bummer!
I used to use either an 11x4 or 10x5 or 10x6 on my .35's
Posted on: 9/13/2011 8:49 PM by Author "proptop" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10715575