RE: Thottle Hold on 9C
Those options come fror the nitro guys.Throttle cut is just what it states,a momentary toggle that brings the throttle servo to a full closed carb position to kill the engine.Throttle hold is an option that will put the throttle servo to any position between 0&100% and any input from the throttle stick is ignored.Generaly throttle hold is set such that the engine will idle at the same speed as stick down for starting/unpowered manuvers,or any type of model that requires a set position for that chanel regardless of throttle stick position.this works great on a nitro heli for starting and autorotation landings
Posted on: 11/16/2006 1:33 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5002510

RE: belt drive?
On the head and tail drive sprocket, drilling & tapping to accept a 3mm set screw is almost mandatory as the little junks that are in there always strip since no one makes a good driver that fits properly.Grab your tail and head and try to spin the tail,mine was slipping on the main shaft and prevented correction of anything more than a hover.If it's slipping take the main shaft out and grind 2 small flats to allow the set screws to "bite" into the shaft.you should also have an 8 tooth sprocket on the tail shaft,if you have the standard t-rex tail shaft I think it's a 10-11 tooth and won't give the tail enough speed.
Posted on: 10/14/2006 3:13 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4865949

RE: brushless motor problems after crash.
Inrunners are bad for that,a bad enough crash(sometimes it dosn't take a hard one,just the correct direction of force) will shock the magnet causing it to crack/splinter.the only thing you can do is get a new mag/shaft assy.BUT before you order it inspect the windings very closely, use a good glass magnifing lens, to ensure that they didn't get cut and/or scratched as this may lead to a shorted winding burning out not only the motor but the esc and possibly the battery as well from over current.
Posted on: 10/10/2006 1:29 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4848854

RE: DS switch on GY401
yes,use the ds "on" position.
Posted on: 10/8/2006 11:02 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4844192

RE: DEANS CONNECTORS?
The only problem with the jst connectors is that they are rated for no more than 5A continous.If he is using this on anything more than a stock BCP/HBCP or other flavor micro heli the current will overheat the terminals and melt the connector body.
Posted on: 9/30/2006 4:42 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4811730

RE: DEANS CONNECTORS?
You can't get those at radio shack,I've checked, however any lhs that is into electric stuff should have them in stock.
Posted on: 9/29/2006 10:27 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4809523

RE: How High?
till you can't see it any more.
Posted on: 9/28/2006 12:40 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4801945

RE: Just how loose should ball links be?
check out the finless vids at home if the IT dept. monitors data transmisions.very,very informative.these will give you more info than you could imagine.alot easier than trying to explain it.
Posted on: 9/26/2006 1:23 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4795102

RE: Shogun Midget 3D ??? Where can I get one? anyone have any info on them yet?
http://www.helihobby.com/html/pixy_heli_microheli.html same thing different name.
Posted on: 9/24/2006 1:04 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4785319

RE: 9C throttle hold prob.
that is standard operation,you get full neg and full pos pitch on the collective limited by the PIT setting in the SWASH menu.you need to go in the "advanced settings"and set the "pitch curve" with the "hold on" to allow only the amount wanted(just like doing a regular pitch curve make sure you select HOLD not NORM,IDL1,etc)or remember that you need to hold just under center stick to maintain a slight neg pitch on the fall down.hope this helps
Posted on: 9/20/2006 3:02 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4770197

RE: Transmitter
you won't find much for that price,even w/o the rx.for a heli capable tx you are looking @ $150 new min w/o rx.check the for sale section,can find some good deals there.
Posted on: 9/17/2006 10:42 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4760895

RE: Blade Pro and Gyro Problems
have you tried to put the heli back to stock and retry?as the only thing that has changed is the gyro.if back to stock trim you still have nothing,check the crystal,sounds strange,but pull it out and put it back in.if still nothing do you have or know of anyone close that has a rx you could try to ensure your tx is operating and/or try on your heli.
Posted on: 9/16/2006 8:32 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4756629

RE: New Gyro, something's wrong tho
sounds like the gyro is acting correctly by the description you give with manual movements of the heli.sounds like the tail motor is toast,however here is a few things to check/ask yourself did you allow the 240 to initialize before you tried to fly? can you feed in tail control to overcome the torque/drift?if not this may be caused by a dieing tail motor and it's not able to overcome the torque generated. if you can't, change the tail motor and recheck if you can, is the trim on the tx centered making the gyro think you want to rotate ccw? hope this helps
Posted on: 9/12/2006 2:39 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4738560

RE: MY STORY
all those upgrades will help in different ways. 1)the super skids will add a little weight forcing more head speed.more head speed = more gyroscopic stability 2)flat bottom blades create slightly less lift meaning more head speed. see above. 3)dual tail mount allows you to split the tail control load between 2 motors = longer life of the motors,less down time as, if one fails you can still control the heli down to the ground 4)HH gyro, if setup corectly will allow you to spend more time learning to hover since you won't be chasing the tail(one thing less to contend with while learning),however you won't "learn" to fly the tail till you get into fwd flight(double edge sword,may get flamed )once you get proficent at hovering I would recomend you go backwards and set it up in nonHH to get the feel for tail control. 5)extra batt's never hurt. my 2¢ worth,hope it helps
Posted on: 9/12/2006 2:15 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4738535

RE: E-Power 11.1v 1300mah battery question
The charger is stopping,but I wouldn't recomend leaving it on there. keep a watch over them ,don't have to be eagle eye and stare at it but be observant as they are charging incase anything should go wrong(electronics have a bad habit of failing for no reason when you forget about them).If anything looks the slightest bit hinky (pack swells,has an odd smell)unplug IMEDIATLY and put the pack in a safe place for observation away from anything flameable. If you are going to the point that you can't get out of groung effect,you are discharging them to far and are damaging the packs.the best way to prevent damage to a lipo if you have no experiance with them is to use a lipo alarm.they come in several flavors and cost,just do a search.as you get used to the alarm you will feel that "point" before the alarm tells you. lipo's are safe if a few precautions are followed.please see here for more indepth info,several good reads. http://www.fmadirect.com/tech_data/techdocs/ also you should let the pack sit for 15-30min before you charge to let the pack cool
Posted on: 9/9/2006 1:32 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4727338

RE: 240 or 401
I'm not familar with that one but this is how I see it if the 9650 is digital,than yes,you would gain the speed of the servo to control the tail under hard 3d.if you are only doing fff/circuts you won't gain anything noticeable if it's analog,no, you have no reason to go to a 401 unless you are having issues with wag/overshoot
Posted on: 9/8/2006 3:18 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4723893

RE: walkera #4 main rotor blade setup
this is a fixed pitch heli,so tracking isn't a real issue. to make sure the blades are straight ,pull on each blade (one blade in each hand)like you are pulling on a rubber band. if the blades look like they are way out of track,twist the low one slightly to increase the airfoil,or untwist the hi one
Posted on: 9/8/2006 1:49 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4723790

RE: What rx crystal in Blade CP
that's a good question that I forgot,as the 9c defaults to pcm.
Posted on: 9/7/2006 2:16 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4720092

RE: What rx crystal in Blade CP
any standard single conversion fm crystal should work.I've had good luck with the futaba and gws crystals.
Posted on: 9/7/2006 1:11 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4719948

RE: new boom mount experiment
I have seen some frames(plastic) that use a set screw (only dimples the boom,not into or thru) to retain the boom with no glue at all.makes for an easy repair.
Posted on: 9/6/2006 1:45 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4716044

RE: Eflite CP Pro - Tail Boom Repair
the boom is glued in from the factory.try a hair drier to warm up the frame and soften the glue.when you put in the new boom,dont glue it.put the glue on the boom and let dry.you want a tight press fit so when you need to remove it you will be able to pull it out with a bit of a fight. you may have to drill and chip the old one out if the heat won't work.some have had luck with CA debonderas well.just watch that you don't melt anything
Posted on: 9/6/2006 1:41 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4716028

RE: ESC programming prob for CPP
You may have to go into the endpoints for ch3.when on low stick change the endpoint to where it will arm,when on the hi stick change the endpoint to where it will allow programming.Don't forget that if it wont go into programing you must unplug the batt and reconnect before you will see a change on the hi stick endpoint adj. for programming access.
Posted on: 9/4/2006 10:23 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4711040

RE: HELI DIRECT LIED - HDX300 Main Gear with Strong Steel Main Shaft for Stock Blade CP
The way I see it,when a person purchases an "upgrade/nonstock part " unless it comes from the heli mfg. that made the heli, one must be ready for some modification/adjustment to make it work. If you wanted a "perfect "drop in you should have purchased stock parts,just my 2¢. It's not that hard to make this work.Measure up from the top mast bearing on the stock shaft to the shear pin hole and transfer that to the new shaft to get the proper position,install the new upper retaining collor than install the shaft into the mast than gear and antirotation collor,mark the amount of shaft sticking out the bottom of the antirotation collor and trim. reassy. the mainshaft set your gear lash and your done. parts setup is as follows---auto collor,gear---mast---steped collor with step to bearing,head the lower tooth count will increase head speed some but not much
Posted on: 9/4/2006 3:38 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4709356

RE: OMG! shes home and Im ALIVE!!!!
YUP,that pitiful puppy dog eye look "I pooped on the carpet and know I shoulda held it but I'm realy sorry" look works everytime.just don't overuse it or she'll get keen to it,than you may get put in the dog house. [:D]
Posted on: 9/3/2006 9:30 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4706407

RE: Mmmmm...micro heli bliss
I don't like the fact that it has non adjustable grip links and the full plastic antirotation hoops.for less cash I feel the hdx head is a better bang for the buck,but I've been known to be wrong.I do like the shiny silver though.
Posted on: 9/3/2006 9:23 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4706369

RE: need help programing futaba 7c (what kind of swash style?)
yes,the basic setup is the same between both radios,some of the menus are the same and the terminology is the same.
Posted on: 9/3/2006 8:17 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4706092

RE: ESC programming prob for CPP
Programing esc's is basicly a standardized function. If the esc is at full throttle the esc knows you want to change the preprogramed values stored in the PIC (micro computer). If the stick is off idle but not full throttle the esc won't arm for safety reasons(be careful here as there has been some instances where the esc was designed incorrectly and at battery change the capacitors in the esc stayed charged and the esc(PIC) wasn't fully powered down and if you bump the throttle stick before the new batt gets plugged in the esc thinks you want throttle,so once the batt gets connected it fires up the motor.Best thing to do is have your throttle at bottom stick "AND/OR a throttle hold set for 0%/throttle cut set for 0% enabled at battery connection"(this only applies if you have an aftermarket tx)).
Posted on: 9/3/2006 5:15 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4705406

RE: ESC programming prob for CPP
the brake option is never used on a heli as the power generated for stopping the motor will cause the teeth to be ripped off the main gear from the inertia of the rotor blades. Why is it an option? only thing I can think of is for a plane,as the prop is turning the same speed as the bell sometimes as much as 10,000 rpm +. you should be able to program the esc by placing the throttle stick at full than plugging in the batt to the heli(no need at all since it's correct already) as the esc gets plugged straight into the rx section and the safety features are in the esc section of the 4in1
Posted on: 9/3/2006 2:05 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4704803

RE: need help programing futaba 7c (what kind of swash style?)
What you need to do is set either 1 or 6 reversed. With 1 rev. you stated the ail.operation was back-wards.go into the "swash menu" and change the ail from +50 to -50 as a start With 6 rev you stated the ail operation was correct but pitch worked back-wards.go into the "swash menu" and change the pit from +50 to -50 as a start Do EITHER 1 or 6 but NOT both.on my heli's I set 6 rev and change the pit value You need to rember that you are using a fully adjustable radio now and some "functions" need to be reversed to operate correctly
Posted on: 9/3/2006 1:46 PM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4704731

RE: ccpm setup
I'm the great bearer of bad news,sorry.[sm=wink_smile.gif]
Posted on: 8/31/2006 3:24 AM by Author "ptremb" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4692478