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RE: Blur engine madness
Not sure what style of carb you have but the one below is how most slide carbs are set up. [IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/purenitro/DSC09187.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 9/14/2012 8:22 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228331
RE: Best engine
The thing your forgetting is that the LSN only controls low speed rpm (IE Idle) so you can lean it out and have no effect on the top end. If the engine is loading up then you can lean the LSN and have Zero effect on the top end. The Taiwanese engines are low compression compared to others, they don't need any cooler then a medium plug and they will tune and run much better on the medium plug imo. If your determined to run a cold plug, then a sluggish bottom end is almost inevitable and the top end won't be any better because they aren't designed as a high compression engine which would benefit from a cold plug. In the end it's whatever you want to do, but your just making things more difficult then they have to be, but what do I know [;)]
Posted on: 9/14/2012 8:17 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228320
RE: Best engine
Properly tuned and with the right plug selection (medium) the SH/LRP/Mach engines will idle all day long. They are not high compression engines so running a cold plug will cause your tuning issues at idle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ8te97ZOF0&list=UUrVDRFdTgL9n4yqEmbv30rg&index=203&feature=plcp
Posted on: 9/13/2012 10:05 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227346
RE: Break-in Intervals
[quote]ORIGINAL: HerrSavage You just said it ''does something'' - the sleeve contracts.. [/quote] Right [8|] And what does that have to do with "heat cycling"? I think your making things way more complicated then they have to be, the operation of a two stroke engine is a very simple concept unless you make it more then it is.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 4:56 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206882
RE: Break-in Intervals
The cool down does nothing, the reason to put the piston at BDC is so when the sleeve contracts, the piston doesn't get stuck in the sleeve.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 9:09 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206102
RE: Break-in Intervals
A hot running engine that has a constant supply of fresh lubrication on each stroke has a lot less stress then one just being started. My question is what exactly is accomplished by heat cycling? I'm not looking to argue but I just don't see what is accomplished by the heat cycle method short of extra wear on the starting components from trying to start a tight engine over and over as apposed to just letting it run as much as possible each time until the pinch has been mainly removed.
Posted on: 8/24/2012 4:42 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204874
RE: Break-in Intervals
I firmly believe in pre-heating but that has nothing to do with any type of heat cycling/tempering. I'm not saying "not" to heat cycle, I just think it's a total waste of time and accomplishes nothing.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 10:06 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204146
RE: Break-in Intervals
Sure but you need to achieve a certain heat to change the molecular structure (stress) as you put it. Running at 200-220*F will not be enough to do that, it's 1/3 of the temp required to change the structure.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 5:17 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203911
RE: Break-in Intervals
You need at least a temperature of 350*C to properly heat treat silicon impregnated aluminum alloy, that's 662*F.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 12:58 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203676
RE: Break-in Intervals
I wouldn't waste a lot of time "heat cycling" as it really doesn't do anything other then cause extra stress on the engine and starting components. Just fire it up and run it as long as possible. The reason I say this is because while running rich, the piston doesn't even get hot enough to cook the oil let alone get hot enough to do any type of heat treating. It is however very hard on the starting system starting it over and over when the engine still has a lot of pinch. IMO heat cycling is just a waste of time, it also better on the engine to run constantly at 200-220F rather then constantly starting cool which adds extra stress again until everything warms up.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 9:00 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203417
RE: Engine Break-in Required after Disassembly?
I would change the rod out towards the 3-4 gallon as well as the bearings, you "should" be safe depending on how much fuel you have through it already. I would wait until then to take it apart as well, it's not that great for the engine to be dismantled needlessly as they may not go back together exactly the same so the fitment between the piston and sleeve could be slightly off. Any micro scratches that have been "fitted"/"matched" may no longer line up and can cause slightly faster wear between the two.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 6:40 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199149
RE: Losi Speed NT vs Traxxas Jato 3.3
I have a jato and I rate it slightly above radio shack quality, weak drive line, cheap plastic and the brakes are a joke! Was it a fun little toy, sure it was, for a while... I don't know anything about the NT because I lost all interest in the "mini" speed toys once I picked up a real 1/8th scale GT car, now that is fun without all the little issues. As for the 1:1 pissing contest, I'd take a vette over a wabbit any day (jmo) but I went with something that can toy with all y'all [;)] [IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l291/purenitro/DSC03775.jpg[/IMG] Waiting to see how big my junk is now, considering it seems to be the other half of this threads content [8|]
Posted on: 8/13/2012 3:34 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192113
RE: savage top speed?
[quote]ORIGINAL: bertinoj http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXnzMIUUyos&feature=plcp how do u think it sounds here? [/quote] Sounds good, did you strip the spur at the end? When the clutch bell gets hot and you let it sit for a bit, the heat will transfer into a couple spur teeth and makes them soft. Then when you hammer it there is a chance that you can peel those heated teeth off along with the rest once the ball gets rolling.
Posted on: 8/12/2012 4:53 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190807
RE: savage top speed?
Don't tune for temps, use this guide and you will safely push the engine to it's max potential. http://extremercmods.com/content/tuning-popup.html
Posted on: 8/12/2012 10:17 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190452
RE: savage top speed
Do you have the spur set up that uses the dual slipper assembly? That's the only way that the flux gears wouldn't be compatible.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 6:57 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184944
RE: Help me troubleshoot
Other then the novas, how many engines are suffering this issue of sucking dirt? I have run in dust at the gravel pits a lot and never had any issues with any non nova engine.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 10:39 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157387
RE: Help me troubleshoot
I couldn't agree more.
Posted on: 7/12/2012 9:24 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11153407
RE: Air Leaks...do you really need to seal your engine ?
If there wasn't a "return" for the oil that gets past the crank and block, then it would all leak out the front bearing. Being that there is suction at the carb, it only makes sense that the hole is to suck back the extra oil that would otherwise leak out the front bearing.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 3:13 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137944
RE: Air Leaks...do you really need to seal your engine ?
The hole is to suck back oil that makes it's way past the crank and case, I've been telling people this for years... I thought it was just the Nova engines that were having this problem because the "hole" is 2-3X bigger then most engines ?
Posted on: 6/30/2012 2:45 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137921
RE: HPI MINI GAS 2-STROKE ENGINE
It would be even cooler if hpi intended on releasing them [8|]
Posted on: 5/19/2012 9:39 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11086805
RE: Homelite 25cc
[quote]ORIGINAL: 8MILLSNIPER007I know this is a few months old, but lowering the jug will actually increase your intake duration and lower your exhaust duration. [/quote] I stand corrected, the statement above is true. I was thinking nitro engines as the ports all open above the piston, the gasser's intake is drawn into the case below the piston skirt, my bad and apologies.
Posted on: 5/17/2012 2:28 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11084755
RE: One Way Bearing
The roto start is probably to blame and one ways crack all the time because of it. The thing is with roto is that you can't feel when something is going wrong, like flooding, this will take out the one way almost every time. Get a pull start and the problem will most likely not happen again, this is because you can feel in your fingers when it starts to load up so common sense will tell you to stop, unlike the roto that keeps hammering away until something gives.
Posted on: 5/15/2012 9:05 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11081571
RE: How to check for air leaks
[quote]ORIGINAL: supertib [quote]ORIGINAL: purenitro33 Are we positive that it's the fuel and not a manufacturing tolerance issue? I have still yet to see a light contact seal bearing that was air tight. I know there was that issue with that one engine but was that across the board or just a individual case. [/quote] multiple engines on the same fuels... most definitely a issue
Posted on: 5/6/2012 8:32 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11070307
RE: How to check for air leaks
Are we positive that it's the fuel and not a manufacturing tolerance issue? I have still yet to see a light contact seal bearing that was air tight. I know there was that issue with that one engine but was that across the board or just a individual case.
Posted on: 5/5/2012 10:27 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069992
RE: How to check for air leaks
I build engines on a daily basis, and the front bearing does NOT create the airtight seal, on any conventional nitro engine.
Posted on: 5/5/2012 8:37 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069916
RE: How to check for air leaks
The front bearing is a "light contact" seal bearing for off-road engines, it is not sealed as in air tight. The seal that give the barrier between crank case pressure +/- and atmosphere is created by the thin film of oil between the crank and block. I have seen engines that used front bearings that had gaps between the balls and no real shield, you could look right through it, like the nova flash marine, I would call that a high end engine. Airtight or "heavy contact" bearings would be considered "sealed" but can not take the rpm these engines push so the heavy contact seal becomes a light contact in no time.
Posted on: 5/5/2012 6:06 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069775
RE: How to check for air leaks
The front bearing does not seal the engine. The seal is made behind the bearing between the crank and block, just in front of the induction opening. The tolerance is such that a skim of oil is all that's needed to make it air tight. A little oil will get past this point and that's what the little hole behind the bearing is for, to suck back any extra oil that's sitting behind the bearing. If the tune is too rich then more oil will flow and the little hole can't keep up so at that point, the bearing starts to leak oil, lean it out and the leak will mysteriously go away.
Posted on: 5/4/2012 4:29 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068680
RE: SH .18?
I guess my post was a little harsh, but if your going to give information, at least make sure it's correct. I have owned and worked on the toki engines and they are trash, lowest quality materials I have ever come across. SH is much better value for the money imo.
Posted on: 4/29/2012 8:08 AM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11061154
RE: SH .18?
[quote]ORIGINAL: tragzy wouldnt waste your money on sh engines (sh=short for SHIT!!) Plaig RC sells The team infinity .21 engines for $139 AU. he is out of stock at the moment but check in the next two weeks or so and you will see it in there.. Here is a link to the engines he sells. chuck him an email and tell him what car you havee if you do not trust me.!! http://www.plaig.com.au/store/index.php?cPath=41 The 21 is has the same size crankcase as the cxp and sh. Promise me!! it will fit. These engines have LOADS of power and are VERY VERY reliable..Trust Me! These engines are Made in japan (quality made). DO NOT WASTE YOU TIME ON SHIT! lol Have a search on plaig rc forum for some peoples oppinions, pics of it installed and other stuff!! [/quote] So how do you suppose he's going to fit a "big block" engine in a small block engine mount? are you speaking from experience or just out your *** ? Last I checked, team infinity sold some engines manufactured by toki, talk about the worst trash ever sold in the RC world [8|]
Posted on: 4/1/2012 1:50 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11023929
RE: Homelite 25cc
If you put a degree wheel on it and time it, with the jug being lowered by removing the gasket, the ports will open later and close earlier, this will reduce the open duration, albeit a small change, it is a change none the less.
Posted on: 3/27/2012 8:55 PM by Author "purenitro33"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11017959
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