RE: Problems with O.S. outboard... need help!
Now you're getting into setup stuff. Do you have the setup instructions that came with the boat? They may still be available online somewhere. It sounds like you have the motor too low on the transom. If I remember correctly the boat stand doubled as a setup stand. I would set it so the center of the prop shaft is 1/8" higher than the bottom of the sponsons and perhaps 1degree down angle for starters. That 3 blade prop probably will need to be a lot higher than that to rev up and may need modifications as well.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 4:21 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140413

RE: Problems with O.S. outboard... need help!
I'm with Jerry on this. Richen it up and see if you can get thru a tank without it quitting. If you do then start leaning out a little at a time to get to the best setting. The fuel tank is far below the carb on a TS-2 so it will get leaner as the fuel level drops. Also it's not abnormal for that engine to just stop when it's too lean. The flex shaft does not cause that sort of problem.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 8:23 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136480

RE: Need New Radio Box
Yea, I'll build you one (or more). Those in the picture are for the Deuce. I've done 20 or 25 of them. Price is about the same ($20) as OEM with shipping included. Includes rubber boots. They are tape down lids which I would recomend anyway.
Posted on: 5/22/2012 6:59 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090257

RE: Need New Radio Box
No, but I would use some sort of plywood. I've built them for sale from 1/16 and lite ply. If you use lite ply you won't need to brace up the corners as the wood is thick enough to just build a box using butt joints. I build them so the servo tray from the original box just drops in and drill holes in the bottom so you can screw it down to the same blocks. Just use the original box to mark the holes. Try to keep it about the same size as the original. Much larger and you'll have trouble with it hitting the cowl.
Posted on: 5/21/2012 6:40 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11089611

RE: ZippKits Rockett Hydro build thread
I would recommend that the blind nuts be installed before the plate is glued to the former. On mine installing them afterwards caused the former to twist slightly.
Posted on: 1/14/2012 9:32 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10908388

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Try monojeff over on the OSE forum. Look under unique products and services
Posted on: 12/18/2011 3:47 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10865490

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
[quote]ORIGINAL: Slideblues So who has the SS, What hull? Yea, Curious about that myself. If it's a D-14 driver, (Blue/VS-1 maybe?) I've probably raced it several times this season. There's a couple pretty fast ones around.
Posted on: 9/10/2011 11:01 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10710989

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
[quote]ORIGINAL: kiteboarder @Racer - How did you apply that Marine Spar Minwax? Brushed on, spray or spray gun? And... Have you ever used it over paint, meaning as a final clear coat? [/quote] I just put it on with a good quality 1" brush. It's not the fastest process but it works for me. I put on 1 coat right from the can. Spread it out evenly and don't try to pile it up. The first coat will completely soak in. Let it sit 3 days and then dry sand with 320 paper just enough to get the chinks off. Put on the second coat and use the same process. Now I personally don't care about a little grain showing thru and finish off with paint and then acrylic urethane which pretty much gets rid of most of the rest of the grain. You could use a couple coats of gloss polyurethane as a final finish but it isn't true clear. It has a slight yellow color to it. If you use it over dark colors you'll never notice. But put it on white or something like that and you'll see it for sure. I highly recommend you don't paint a race boat a dark color. They become great invisible targets. Also back to the curved run pad thing...Take a spoon and hold it by the end of the handle. Start a stream of water with your faucet and allow the back of the spoon to touch the water stream and see what happens. It took a long time for me to absorb the importance of that demonstration. Everything that is not dead flat involves a curve.
Posted on: 9/10/2011 1:46 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10710341

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
[quote]ORIGINAL: kiteboarder Hi Gene, Good post there. I noticed the same thing on mine and went ahead a flattened as much as I could. I did however, take it a step further. Since the finish from factory is pretty much subpar I went ahead and sanded the entire boat down to refinish it. The bottom of the sponsons is now flat and balanced from side to side and almost the entire hull is close to bare wood now. I did the riding surface with 60-grit and then smoothed it out with 220. I'm not sure what to reseal it with now though. I don't have easy access to 2-part paints because I don't have a compressor or spray gun here (plus I live in an apartment). I bought some Minwax Urethane clear sealer, but some of the guys on Intlwaters are telling me the nitro will eat it. So, I considered sealing with it, then painting with some quality spray paint and finally taking it to a auto-body shop to get it clear-coated with 2 part paint. What do you guys think? [/quote] I think you were wise to get those run pads flat over their length. I'm sure the curved rear section is not a design feature. Also I use Minwax Marine Spar urethane semi-gloss to seal all my wood boats. I'm not sure about the Minwax polyurethane sealer but the spar urethane is completely fuel proof. Trust me on that one. I've tested it to the max. I've had 65% take off everything right down to the Spar urethane. It didn't bother that at all.
Posted on: 9/10/2011 10:52 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10710164

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
[quote]ORIGINAL: Ron Olson Gene, another blast from the past. I ran into some old pix the other night while looking for something else so I thought that I'd scan some. This was one that my wife wrecked at a race (it wasn't her fault and won't go into details) but repaired it and my son raced it. He trophied, a 3rd place finish against 12 others in his first ever race. [/quote] Hi Ron, Do you happen to know what hull that is in your picture? Just curious. Thanks
Posted on: 9/7/2011 11:53 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10705891

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
[quote]ORIGINAL: kiteboarder Hey guys, slight change of topic but still on Tunnels. I know both Gene and Craig have VS1's. Did you guys blueprint them when building? I checked mine on a glass table and it's perfectly true from one side to the other. The only thing is the very last 1'' of the sponsons goes up about 1/32'' of an inch (when looking at the hull right side up on the table. I was thinking of sanding it down a bit to make the last 1'' perfectly straight with the the other 10'' in front of that. The question is, should I? And... if you guys did do this, what did you use to seal the wood again? Thanks, Danny [/quote] Unless the instructions with the boat tell you expressly not to touch the bottom I would consider blueprinting any tunnel. I've recently done my 2 Cobra's and a friends TS3 and they have all benefited both handling wise and speed wise. I'm almost positive that 1/32 rise at the back of your sponson should not be there. Instead of sanding the sponson down to it I would consider adding material to bring it up some. Look up Bernoulli's Principle and do some research on blueprinting. You might be surprised at the extent people are going to to get their sponsons absolutely flat.
Posted on: 9/5/2011 6:24 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10703247

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
[quote]ORIGINAL: Blackout On the topic of XM rods and the fact that they do not have lube holes on the bottom end. I noticed that the XM crank pin does have an angled lube hole. But not sure if it works as well. [/quote] Apparently, they don't work as well. The original Version 1 rods tend to wear the crank pins to a point that they are no longer round. We have seen them wear as much as 2 thou. in a season while the Speed rods will wear the pins down maybe 1/2 thou in a season. Also it looks like the Version 2 air cooled rods have an oil hole in the bottom end.
Posted on: 9/5/2011 5:54 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10703210

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Here is a picture of a VSpec Speed Rod. A car guy turned me on to theses a couple years ago. Looks similar to the one in the new air cooled engine. In real life they look like they are a machined piece while the V2 rod in the picture looks like it may be cast. But it's hard to tell from the pic.
Posted on: 9/3/2011 5:16 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699052

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
Whoa, hold up there just a minute. I do not claim to be an expert on these or any other engine but what I do know is what I have tried and what has worked for me. I race my tunnels and I do not have unlimited funds to put in them. I am not easy on them and everything i tell you has come from personal experience. In 5 years of racing these I've broken just about everything you can break on one. I am not an engine modifier. I do some but only to the extent that it will not cause long term harm to the engine. As Rodney pointed out earlier you can win a ton of races without going 55 mph. My best tunnel is probably touching 50 on a good day with a mild headwind. That's not to say I wouldn't love to have a 55MPH tunnel because I would! I run 65% nitro in my engines and haven't broken anything since early last season (and that was just a flex shaft before I changed to brass liners). When I finish running I flush the motor with WD-40 and then put some Corrosion X in it. I would recommend you change the rod as soon as you can afford to. The XM rods do not have lube holes in the bottom and they will wear the crank pin out of round. The plugs you have are OK. I use O'Donnell blue plugs with the 65%. I also restrict the water to the head until when the engine comes in hot it's somewhere in the low 220's or almost too hot to touch. Running them colder just wears them out (IMO). When mine goes by, if you look close, you can see water just barely dribbling out.
Posted on: 9/2/2011 12:34 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698593

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
IMO...You really need to find out where the metal pieces you found on the piston came from. If the element (although mangled) was still in the plug it's not too likely that's where they came from. I've seen the OS bearings lose flakes of plating off the bearings and it is destructive. They don't always feel bad when this happens. You need to look at them with a magnifying glass. First thing I do when I get a new motor is pull the bearings and get some siwss WIB's for it. Also pitch the XM rod and replace it with an OS VSpec speed rod. If you do those things the likelihood of an internal failure goes way down.
Posted on: 9/2/2011 7:19 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698217

RE: 21 Tunnel Talk
I wouldn't use grease on the new flex shaft. It will just plug up the oiling system OS has designed in to the lower unit. A light oil is fine. I've been using 5-20 synthetic blend oil before each run and at the end of the day. A couple of other things I do is replace the teflon liner with a brass liner made from 7/32 brass tubing. I haven't had a flex shaft fail while running since I started doing this at the beginning of last summer. I have pulled them out and found broken strands but have not had one break while running. Something else I do is seal up the side plate with RTV except at the very bottom of the plate(nearest the prop shaft). With that sealed up you can pump oil in the top side fitting and force any water out the bottom of the plate.
Posted on: 9/1/2011 8:08 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10697634

RE: Norbert's FE Tunnel Build
Hi All, I don't mean to hijack Norbert's thread but just thought I'd show this video of my Fe tunnel running. The conditions were not too good for a tunnel but I think it did OK. The wind was blowing about 20mph form right to left in the video and you can hear it in the audio. I'm mainly putting this here because Norbert's tunnel is built from the same templates I drew up for this boat. So, these 2 boats are about as close to alike as 2 different people can build them. I'm running a UL-1 motor, Seaking 120 esc, OS lower, 438 prop, on 4S. http://www.youtube.com/user/gvilleboy2000
Posted on: 4/12/2011 11:04 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10458493

RE: Fly Sky 10 Model FS GT3B 2.4 G 3 CH Radio
As to run times, I have a GT3-A (not B) that I installed a 1450 lipo in and I can make several trips to the pond before charging. I would think the 3-B would be similar in that respect. The funny thing is that the meter in the TX will only register up to 11.6v even thought the battery measures 12.4 at full charge. I once left it on and when I went to use it the display wouldn't come on. When I checked the battery it was dead zero. Now I always heard the lipo would be useless after that. Not so. I finally got it up enough for the charger to recognize it and recharged it. That was 3 months ago and it's still holding a full charge. The lipo I use is from HK and it was $7.56. It's always good to be lucky[:)][:)]
Posted on: 2/24/2011 5:44 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10361515

RE: These new fangled Trigger happy Transmitters
As KB9STD stated, if you can operate servos with the receivers you can safely assume the receivers are fine. If I had an ESC that had no markings and I had no info on how to program it, I wouldn't waste any more time with it. You may never get that figured out on your own. By the way, do you know the beeps come from the motor and not the ESC? The motor beeps as commanded by the ESC. There will be no info in the radio manual as to how to program the ESC. They didn't make it and it's not something that would be covered by the radio manual. I had an ESC that had it's BEC fail(In a boat). Sometimes it worked and sometimes it disarmed the motor. The steering always worked when this happened. I had to use a separate battery to power the receiver and I ran it all summer that way. I'm not doubting anything you've done, just trying to give you some ideas to get you to look at your problem from another angle.
Posted on: 11/18/2010 11:31 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10144611

RE: These new fangled Trigger happy Transmitters
The receivers (except for the fail-safes on the newer versions) are not programmable.
Posted on: 11/18/2010 8:44 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10144240

RE: RE Hobby King radio 2.4
I used the version 1- 4ch this summer in a sail boat with no problems at all. I have both antenna's concealed inside the hull.
Posted on: 11/8/2010 11:40 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10123787

RE: eurgle 2.4 ghz
Thanks Cerdito. Just the kind of info I was looking for.
Posted on: 11/1/2010 8:28 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "RC Car Radio Equipment"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10109637

RE: These new fangled Trigger happy Transmitters
[quote]ORIGINAL: BACKEMF [quote]ORIGINAL: racer504 Just a thought here, but you might try being sure the ARC throttle settings read 000.025,050,075,100 from top to bottom for the model you are on. Eurgle was notorious for only setting up the first model with standard settings. The rest might be set anywhere. Also check the trim settings. [/quote] ARC? WTH? is this some thing I miss in language
Posted on: 10/30/2010 11:07 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10105537

RE: eurgle 2.4 ghz
Has anyone tried one of these yet? http://r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail.php?prod=rcps2805004
Posted on: 10/30/2010 4:21 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "RC Car Radio Equipment"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10104829

RE: These new fangled Trigger happy Transmitters
Just a thought here, but you might try being sure the ARC throttle settings read 000.025,050,075,100 from top to bottom for the model you are on. Eurgle was notorious for only setting up the first model with standard settings. The rest might be set anywhere. Also check the trim settings.
Posted on: 10/30/2010 4:13 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10104818

RE: What type of racer are you?
The race will probably run all day from around 9am or so. I expect there will be 40-50 or so entries. Classes will include the usual D-14 points classes plus a few more. RTR, Sport 20, Sport 40, 1/8 Scale, Thunder boats, B Sport Tunnel, B Tunnel, Gas Hydro, Open Gas, & ETC. This race was moved to Madison from the Louisville area due to the drought drying up their pond at Sellersburg, In. I see from some of your other post you may be into FE stuff. There just isn't any FE racing going on in District 14. I have an FE Tunnel myself but the only race around this part of the country is in Dayton, Oh in the spring. The race site is on 421 north of Madison. Go north on 421 to the entrance to the old Jefferson Proving grounds. Turn left into the entrance and the pond will be on the left in about a 1/2 mile or so. Stop by and say hi. I'm the old guy with orange and white boats with Black Cats on them. Mike
Posted on: 10/2/2010 10:09 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10043512

RE: What type of racer are you?
Hi Battlepack, I see you're in Carrolton. There is a race near you in Madison, In. next Saturday. Stop by if you get a chance. Mike
Posted on: 10/2/2010 7:29 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10043203

RE: Norbert's FE Tunnel Build
Welcome back stranger... The boat looks great! Mike
Posted on: 8/17/2010 10:15 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9941309

RE: Building a boat need help
River City Racing Club is based in Evansville. Even if you don't want to race, I'm sure if you hook up with those guys they will give you any help you need. They run on the pond behind Cracker Barrel. I run third channel needles on all my boats. I wouldn't be without one.
Posted on: 8/5/2010 2:55 PM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9913116

RE: 2.4 ghz upgrade?
I bought one of these last winter for a sailboat. After about 3-4 hrs of use I can say I have had no issues with the radio. The radio I bought is a version one and I see they are now selling the version 2 for less than I paid for the older version ($28.95/$22.95). Not saying they are better or worse than any other, just saying it has worked well for me. It will work for an airplane or boat(if you can use a stick radio for your boat). http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8338&Product_Name=Hobby_King_2.4Ghz_4Ch_Tx_&_Rx_V2_%28Mode_2%29
Posted on: 7/10/2010 10:49 AM by Author "racer504" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9855909