RE: Light-Weight Paint Over Nitrate Dope
Thanks for the web page on colored dope. I'm building the SR Playboy (wingspan ~ 6ft) from RC Modeler plans 597. This is my first experience with an under-cambered wing. I sure would hate to try covering it with Monokote! I don't think it can be done without warping the structure. The plans have a dihedral or polyhedral option. I'm building it poly. The plans also have a option
Posted on: 11/2/2009 12:20 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222501

RE: Light-Weight Paint Over Nitrate Dope
I'll try the dye. Thanks.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 12:07 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222477

RE: Light-Weight Paint Over Nitrate Dope
I looked into the colored silk and this must be the way to go. I can add any details with the light weight paint. Thanks for your help.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 4:14 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220554

RE: Light-Weight Paint Over Nitrate Dope
Thanks a bunch!
Posted on: 11/1/2009 4:11 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220548

Light-Weight Paint Over Nitrate Dope
I'm scratch-building a Playboy old-timer that will be RC rather than the original free-flight. I'm using electric power and will cover the model with silk-span and nitrate dope. I'm told most paints can be applied over a nitrate doped surface and I want to use the lightest paint (also the less expensive) available. Fuel-proofing is not an issue. I know I can get Butyrate dope
Posted on: 10/31/2009 2:29 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9217862

RE: EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC FLIGHT
Thanks all. I'll do exactly that. The ESC will be in the tail next to the ducted fan motor (in the airstream for cooling purposes) and I'll lengthen the battery leads just enough to get the battery in the nose. Makes sense to increase the wire guage as well to cut down on potential voltage loss.
Posted on: 5/24/2009 2:19 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8794689

RE: EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC FLIGHT
I received a response for Elecrify. Doesn't help me much because I must move the battery far from the motor or have a 5 lb airplane. Here it is: "Thank you for contacting product support. Unfortunately we can't recommend any modifications on the leads as that hasn't been tested. This would also usually void the warranty. I would check some online Rc forums
Posted on: 5/23/2009 4:55 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8792792

RE: EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC FLIGHT
So far, no response from Great Planes Electrifly on the length of the leads from the ESC to the motor. I did find this statement in the ESC manual: “If the wires are not long enough to make all necessary connections to the ESC yet achieve good balance in the aircraft, it’s best to extend the length of the wires to the motor (not to the battery).” I don'r expect any more info but if I do I'll let you know.
Posted on: 5/21/2009 4:09 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8788010

RE: EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC FLIGHT
Thanks a bunch! I'm glad I asked the question and I'll check with Electrify on the leads.
Posted on: 5/17/2009 1:17 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8776246

RE: EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC FLIGHT
I'm building a ducted fan model and need to extend the leads (12-14 inches) from the 45 amp ESC (Electrifly) to the Ammo in-runner motor driving the fan. (24-45-3790kV) constant current = 25A, maximum surge current = 50A. At 11.1V maximim constant watts = 278. The best wire I can find in the hobby store catalogs is 12ga silicone manufactured in this case by Deans. I use Deans connectors so this seems to be the right wire but I don't find any data showing current ratings. Have I got the right wire for this application? Is there a source somewhere to size and purchase the proper lead wire? Ducted fans will typically physically separate the ESC from the motor and will require longer leads. Thanks for your help!
Posted on: 5/16/2009 5:13 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8774288

RE: WIN A FREE Scale Fuselage from V-East & Graupner Helis
I'm in. Grady's the name. Heli's aren't my game - but they could be.
Posted on: 1/7/2009 5:45 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8331173

RE: What does the average sportsman competitor fly?
Thanks all for the advice, suggestions, and the web site. All good stuff. Kevin, I'm not changing my name... yet. Hey, sometimes one needs to clear out the garage for some new birds. The old 4* was a good flyer and my favorite. Have you noticed most want to give you $1.98 for your labor of love and $600 investment? Might as well give it away or press the envelope flying it. Of course you should get the brain in gear first. Please tell me pattern maneuvers are at altitude ... please!
Posted on: 6/11/2006 4:44 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4378637

RE: What does the average sportsman competitor fly?
This discussion is very informative and I thank all for your inputs. I see that in pattern more emphasis is on pilot skills than any particular airframe (in sportsman at least.) I know quite a bit about the flight maneuvers and have flown many with a 4-star 60. A good plane but not axial enough in my view for precision maneuvers. Well, "I split-s" too low the other day and, presto, my dumb thumbs handed me a 4-star in four pieces. I love the sleek look of the old pattern planes and I want to buy an ARF that looks something like these beauties (long tail boom, forward cowl, tapered, narrow-chord, mid wing, swept fin (you all know what I'm describing.) It needs to get along well in the vertical with a 90 4-stroke (7-8 lbs.?). I've had real problems trying to find any ARF's that meet this criteria, and I can't even find many kits. A couple of the guys in my club have drawings of calypsos, kaos, and other 70's designs, but I really don't want to scratch build at this time. Here's my question (finally, you say): If you were buying a 60-sized pattern plane ARF today, and expecting to pull it with a 90 4-stroke, what would you buy? I appreciate the need for a 2m plane if I get really competitive, but I'd like to keep the costs down for my first foray into precision aerobatics. Thanks for your help!
Posted on: 6/8/2006 4:58 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4368671

RE: New TF Sea Fury!!
G'Day, I'm just planning my Sea Fury but expect it to be much like yours - glassed with the RCV 120-SP. I'd like to use the four blade prop (albeit inefficient) and the 4" spinner. I'll have a small opening in front as I am planning to model a Reno racer called September Fury, and the full scale plane has a modified cowl for breathing purposes. What prop are you running in yours? What size spinner? Do you have any problems with the engine overheating?
Posted on: 2/6/2005 7:37 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2628588

TF Sea Fury Gold Edition
I'm planning the construction of this kit and have a concern about the engine recommendations. My model will be glassed and painted and will probably exceed the ~11 pound weight of the prototype in the manual. I sure would like to swing a larger prop (15 inch or 16 inch) for aesthetic reasons (and I'd really like to use a three or four blade prop equivalent for the ultimate.) Do you know if a gas engine (like a G26) would be the answer here. I understand that these war birds are usually tail heavy and if I must add nose weight it might as well be engine weight. The RCUniverse threads from model builders with experience seem to lean to 1.2 four stroke glow engines. The guys who built the prototype (using monokote) specifically say don't go that much. I'd like to build this model as a Reno racer and painting is the best option, but if the weight causes engine match problems, I stick to monokote. Thanks for your help.
Posted on: 2/3/2005 6:01 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2617959

RE: Who has built a Toplflight Warbird
Randy, I've purchased a TF Sea Fury Kit and am debating two options. The manual says the plane will weight ~11 pounds and they also recommended either an OS.61 or a ST.75 (with the in cowl muffler as you have said.) I'm going to glass and paint my bird and suspect it will weigh better than 12 pounds. I'm skeptical of the recommended engines. I'd like to fly this thing with a bigger prop (~16 inch dia.) for better looks and sound and will go with a four-stroke (the "thread" I've been reading seems to suggest most modelers are using a minimum 1.2) or maybe a Zenoah G26? (I like to go gas over 1 cubic inch because I hate to buy glow fuel.) What has been your experience with these TF .60-sized warbirds and the recommended engines? They sure seem small to me for the weight of these models. I sure don't want to build one that takes the entire runway to lift off. If anyone has a coment or experience concerning this issue (experience is the best teacher) I'd sure like to hear from you. My most highest aspiration is to build this thing with a large diameter (15" or so) three or four blade prop. I'm going to paint it up as a Reno racer ("September Fury" if you are familiar with it) and the prop would be closer to scale if I can make it work.
Posted on: 2/3/2005 5:05 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2617763

RE: Don't Answer Cell Phone While Flying!
The cell phone is not to blame for airplane crashes-it's the R/C pilot who thinks he/she can talk on the phone while flying. These are the same people who run red lights, wander over to other lanes, and other dumb driving tricks while talking on their cell phone. It is irresponsible for an R/C pilot to do ANYTHING ELSE while flying. One must keep his/her eyes on the aircraft at all times and keep the brain in gear, focused on flying. Things happen very quickly in the air and nobody is enough of a multi-tasker to handle anything more than flying.
Posted on: 2/24/2004 3:04 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1560284

RE: What stops vertical flight?
It has been my experience that vertical flight, when going down, is always stopped by the ground.
Posted on: 1/2/2004 9:37 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1397042

RE: Suggestion for moderators
Hey Dick! You must be an F4 pilot. That plane proves that if you got enough thrust and have a large, government-sized reserve of JP4, a rock will fly.
Posted on: 1/2/2004 9:35 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1397036

RE: Ground loops
Thanks guys! I'll see what I can do about the thrust angle and learn to "pulse" the rudder. You are right on explaining the way I was "driving" the plane down the runway. Too much over control causing the plane to whip back and forth. I'll get the hang of it! Really good help from both of you! I figure if I can learn to fly this contraption I'll have an easier time flying a straight model. I love the challenge of this hobby!
Posted on: 1/2/2004 9:21 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1397002

RE: 4*60 HELP
When I finished mine a few weeks ago the leading edges looked warped to my eye. I verified with a straight edge that they were not warped. You may be seeing the same optical illusion that I saw. If you have an incidence meter, level the fuse with the wing attached and run the device down the length of the wing. The incidence should not change for this wing as there is no washout or washin. Sometimes the aileron can be warped and cause the wing to look warped. Check them out as well. My limited experience is that ailerons tend to warp when covering them, especially as they are full length on this bird. If they are, apply some heat from your iron on the convex side. Shrinking the film on one side usually straightens the aileron. When you fly the model, trim it for level flight and do a loop directly into the prevailing wind. If the wing is warped chances are you will roll out of the loop and have to use ailerons to keep the loop straight. This plane should not require any aileron control to loop straight.
Posted on: 1/2/2004 9:02 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1396961

Ground loops
I have a scratch-built bipe (builder designed as well) that is a significant problem in the take off. Once airborne it flys relatively well trimmed out and it lands OK. I have a built-in left thrust angle on the Magnum 61 four-stroke derived from washers under the right side of the motor mount (don't have a way to measure the angle precisely, but it looks like about 2 degrees.) I know to keep the tail down with elevator on take-off until I get airflow across the fin and I know to keep some right rudder when the tail lifts until the plane gets some speed (the tail-dragger norm.) The problem is that I think the plane needs too much right rudder. I'm wrestling this thing down the runway (asphalt) and dipping wingtips all the way into the air. I've had a little better luck on grass. I've made sure both main wheels spin freely. I'm flying it with a 12x6 prop. Would more or less left thrust be an answer to counteract torque or would I have better luck centering the engine thrust? Is left thrust the way to counter the problem? (My logic tells me if the airplane is wanting to go left on power that right thrust on the engine is needed.) I don't want to screw up the flight characteristics trying to compensate for hard take-off characteristics. (This bipe is more difficult to take off than a Cub - if you know what I mean.) I'm up to experimenting but I'd like to do things in an aerodynamically sound manner, not just moving things around willy nilly. Thanks for your help!
Posted on: 1/1/2004 4:04 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1393783

RE: Hing Question !!!!!!!!!!!!
I've seen some club members pinning their hinges with T-pins. No hole drilling required and they clip the pin flush with dikes cutters. No glue. Anybody use this method? Is this option viable?
Posted on: 11/18/2003 6:58 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1288069

RE: Balsa USA - 1/4 scale EAA Bipe
Bedford, you mentioned you had a "small gasser" in your 1/4 scale EAA Bipe. I've got this airplane kit on my list of wannado's and I have a Ryobi 31cc (I think) conversion. Would this constitute a small gasser in your opinion. I know next to nothing about gas engines at this point but do want to build a scale model that flys scale. [sm=confused.gif]
Posted on: 9/11/2003 7:08 PM by Author "rc flylow" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1129931