RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
The fix to set the stabs at zero or I would even go -1 from what I have seen on my Dad's YAk is very easy. The first thing we did was to figure how much the hole needed to be elongated. I then used a round 1/4" file to do the job. I cut a peice of 1/4" ID CF tube the same width as the fuse where the pins go in. The tube was tac glued with thin CA and then the stabs were put in place and a measurment was taken. If it needed further adjustment I could have easily poped the tube loose. Once We were sure that the stabs were at zero, I filled the gap above the tube with epoxy and then put a fillet of epozy around the tube on the inside. The front mounting tab will have to have it's hole elongated about 3/32" towards the stab. If I was to do it again based on how the airplane flew yesterday, I would set the stabs to -1. Unforunatly we still have not been able to get any real time on the airplane. The engine has either an air leak or a bad ignition so 3 mins into the flight the engine looses power and the airplane has to be landed. We do know that the CG is correct and it is not a factor in the trim issue. Shawn
Posted on: 4/24/2007 11:53 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5762694

RE: 87" Yak Rudder hinge pins broke
[quote]ORIGINAL: Silversurfer Shawn, You know that high speed jitter you have with the 8611's on the one surface of your Extra? I had the same condition happening with a new 8611 on the rudder of my Edge. It happened so much and so fast that it broke the Gorilla Glue joints around the hinge points on the vertical stab. For me that lends a little credance to the allegation of the servo hunting on this persons Yak breaking the hinges. That jitter (I was informed) is caused by the servo attempting to find center after the gears have worn too much. They start bouncing like crazy. The "story" is that the linkages are being improperly set up, causing the servo gears to undercut the teeth on the adjacent gear. Don't know how that applies to servos in the first couple of flights though. Mine was new also. I asked JR if they had any plans to change gear material and was told the 8611 is just great as is[8|] I just placed a reservation on 5 Hitec 5955's with Wild Hare for my next plane.... [/quote] Pat I suppose I can see that happening. Was yours a pull pull or a push pull? I got the same story about improper setup from JR service when I sent them 4 8611 servos. We had quite a lengthy chat and I had explained to him that they were in my IMAC 40% Extra and what my current standings were in the points. He then agreed to send them back free of charge. Last week I was having an issue with a customers R2000 receiver not being able to lock on to a TX. It would scan but not lock. I called JR service. The first thing from them was I did not have the TX set to S PCM. I told him that I did and that the TX was verified on my own equipment using a 950RX. I asked if it made any difference that I was using a Power Expander and was proptly asked what a Power Expander is. All I can say is that there looks as is there was a changing of the gaurd over at JR service and it is really shaking my confidence in them. As far as servos go their official stance is that we should not use a ratio less than 1.5 to 1. in other words 1' servo arm with 1.5" control arm. I told him that in the real world that is not going to happen, guys are going to want more throw than that. The guy I had on the phone did admit he has been with Horizon about 1 year. Joe so that I understand, are you having the same servo jittering? Is your setup pupp pull or push pull? Shawn
Posted on: 4/24/2007 11:37 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5762643

RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: krayzc-RCU HELP!!!!!! I took the EF Yak out today and maiden it about 5 min. The thing that puzzles me is I had to apply quite a bit up up trim. I am in the garage right now making sure my home made motor spacers are correct at zero with my install. I only needed 2 clicks of aileron trim at my radio being set up on trim step 1 vise the default of 4. My CG range is 6 3/4 to 7 1/2" I am in the 7" range on the CG. I started off with 31 trims up elevator with trim step one, I landed and added about an oz to the rear and re-flew and the trim went to 29 vise 31. In knfie edge the plane pulls to the wheels in both directions and on inverted flight it's climbing toward a slow loop or unline. If it did not fly climb inverted i would think i am still nose heavy. The wings and stab were dead on zero on the put together so i am lost any ideas on your end? With the plane being so true from the build i feel i have jacked up something on my end, talk soon as i am lost if the motor spacers are correct i will know more in the next hour. Here is what the elevator 1/2 look like right now, talk to me ALL! [/quote] We test flew my Dad's Yak and had the same issue. We leveled out the fuse and hit the stabs with a Robart meter. One stab was 1.5 degrees and the other was 2 degrees off. This has been fixed and we are waiting for the weather as well. I have to think that the long landing gear may have something to do with this. Other than that the airplane flew pretty well. we were having some motor issues as well so we havent really had a chance to really wring her out. Shawn
Posted on: 4/21/2007 3:57 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5749320

RE: 87" Yak Rudder hinge pins broke
I think that it is a high frequency vibration that has caused this. can you tell what engine/prop combo you have and the method you use to balance your props. Shawn
Posted on: 4/21/2007 3:47 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5749292

RE: Composite planes...
Fly Fan Krill DR Hobbies Extreme A/C BVM Total Composites FMG R&R Products 3W
Posted on: 4/20/2007 8:29 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5746393

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: Wings-RCU Shawn, If not epoxy, then what glue do you use with the fiberglass cloth with polyester glass parts? [/quote] Use Polyerster resin. Most hardware stores will have it and it is commonly refered to as " Fiberglass resin ". It's the stuff that is really smelly and the hardener is a clear liquid called MEKP that is usually mixed up around 5 drops per oz. The good thing about using Polyester is that it cures much faster than epoxy and that I suspect is the main reason it is used. Back in the day, Byron Originals used polyester on all their fusalages so it is not an inferior material, it just allows the factory to produce more parts in a given time frame. Shawn
Posted on: 4/19/2007 11:43 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5739556

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: sailing1 Here you go. The first picture is of two strips that have been laid up and trimmed. You will notice that it is almost invisible after the epoxy dries. The second and third picture is of a 2 inch piece of fiberglass tape being laid up. Just put a layer of epoxy down on the cowl and the ring and lay the stirp on the cowl bending up 90 degrees to the ring. Then go over it with another thin layer of epoxy to seal the deal. The third picture shows the other side of the cowl ring with the excess glass sticking up. I like to wait about 20-25 minutes till the epoxy starts to cure but before it is really solid and just use a knife to trim the excess glass and epoxy. If you forget to trim the piece right away you can still cut it but it isn't as easy and you may need to do a little sanding or Dremel work to clean the edge. This build up will be pretty much invisible when done and will not affect the installation of the cowl. [/quote] I would advise anyone doing this that they do roughen up the inside of the cowl as mentioned priviously and then clean with alcohol or equivelent, The fiberglass parts are made from polyester resin and some of these resins actually contain wax. The other thing is that I would not recomend using epoxy on polyester parts as the two are not chemically compatable. Shawn
Posted on: 4/18/2007 11:20 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5737856

RE: uneven elevator deflection
[quote]ORIGINAL: dick Hanson the latency thing will not be cured thru adding the module to the 10--it is in the basic guts of how the TX assembles info -lines it up and feeds it thu . ditto for the 9C maybe some never see this "problem" but if you are doing stuff that calls for fast accurate matching - it's there - How much it will affect your flying -- that's an unknown. [/quote] I agree the matcing will always be a tad off, how much this affects the way the airplane flys is anyones guess. I remember 1/2A pylon racers with a single aileron and half an elevator flying pretty well. Not exactly apples to apples. On my current setup I put 18" sticks on the elevator halves that come together at the end. Through the entire travel I get no more than 3/32" differential 18" out. I agree that we are on the verge of some serious improvements. I just would never be able to give up my 10X for a hunk of plastic DX7. Shawn
Posted on: 4/4/2007 10:45 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5667091

RE: uneven elevator deflection
By tweaking the mix rates and the ATVs you will be able to get it very near perfect. Worst case senario you can do an elev-elev multi point mix to correct the difference mid travel. Shawn
Posted on: 4/4/2007 10:31 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5663723

RE: Clercoating an aluminum spinner
If it's polished the clear will not stick. Your best bet is to keep a coat of wax on it to keep it from oxidizing. Shawn
Posted on: 4/4/2007 10:26 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5663698

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: Wings-RCU RTK, Thanks, normally you have more room when crossing the cables because they require a smaller exit hole. To move the cables exits forword away from a bulk head you can use larger control arms. Silver as far as: [quote]It's not possible to obtain more rudder authority by crossing the cables.[/quote] I have done this experiment multiple times and found that straight cables have a slight advantage around center but crossed cables have an advantage any where over 17* of movement. [/quote] When I was designing helicopters we found that by keeping the linkages as close to 90 degrees of the control arm we would have better power to the control system. Crossing the cables would in fact do the same thing. at the time we coined the phrase ' Attack angle " Shawn
Posted on: 4/3/2007 1:19 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5659171

RE: H9 46% landing gear
[quote]ORIGINAL: HGV I had already painted it yellow because of what I had heard about this gear. Not sure about putting in in the oven now that it has been painted. I guess I could strip the paint. ??????? [/quote] Depending on what type of paint was used. If it auto pain then it will hold up to the heat. at this point you have nothing to lose, throw it in and see what happens. Shawn
Posted on: 4/3/2007 1:13 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5659142

RE: H9 46% landing gear
Try putting it in the oven at 200 degrees for a few hours. This will soften it up some and bring it back to original shape but it will also make it stronger and more heat resistant after it cools down. It would also be a good idea to paint it yellow so it wont absorb heat sitting in the sun. Shawn
Posted on: 4/2/2007 9:51 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5656294

RE: Comp-Arf Extra 260 2.6m Q's/Build
You can take a round file and bring the slot back andout 50% into the wood. This will give you more but still maybe not enough. The next thing to do would be to look at where the slot makes contact with the hinge tab and file some material off there as well. Use the round file for this as well as sharp angles will create a stress point. Shawn
Posted on: 3/25/2007 2:37 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5614395

RE: Rolling right with up elevator?!
stiffen your TX springs. Shawn
Posted on: 3/22/2007 4:42 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5601411

RE: Which 33% to 35% 3D Plane?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Silversurfer Shawn Berkheimer said of the Sukhoi after flying it twice that it was an extremely neutral plane. He does not fly 3D, but unlimited class IMAC. Dan Centeno, a 3D only flyer that is extremely good stated that had he not already had a 40% Comp Arf 260 that the Sukhoi would have been a great plane for him. Very neutral and did only as was asked. At the time he asked if my Sukhoi was for sale. Comparing a 35% Sukhoi against a 40% Comp Arf and fairing very well is quite a feat. [/quote] While I am not a 3D pilot I can tell you that a 3D guy and an IMAC guy will look for pretty much the same qualities in an airplane. Control surface power, neutral stability, light wing loading, low or zero control cross coupling, duability. These are all things that both worlds would want in an airplane. The Sukhoi has these qualities so I say go for it. Who knows, some day you may want to try some strait line flying, dial down the rates, add some expo and your good to go. Shawn
Posted on: 3/22/2007 11:58 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5600300

RE: Comp-Arf Extra 260 2.6m Q's/Build
Any more questions just ask. I'm only 2 hrs away so if you ever want to came and peek into my 3M 260 you are welcome to do so. Shawn
Posted on: 3/22/2007 12:36 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5598846

RE: Comp-Arf Extra 260 2.6m Q's/Build
For the rudder, use a SWB 3" full arm on the front servo and a 4" offset on the rear. The holes will line up for the rods to link them together and the pull pull cables will go to the outside on the offset arm. Make sure you install the rudder control horns so that the center of the ball link is in line with the hinge pin. Cross the cables and with this setup the cables will remain tight throughout full travel. For millimg the slots, I use a Dremel HSS cutter that is ball tipped. your local OSH should have it. The 5" sullivan wheel is going to be too heavy. Go with 4.5" Kavans or H9 pro lites. Use Dubro 3/16" axles. attach the wheel pants with two 4-40 screws and blind nuts just above the axle. Get the compact mufflers, the 3M version needs them so the odds are the 2.6 will also. Mount all the components as far forward as you can. The 3M is difficult to balance and I have a feeling the 2.6 will be the same. Shawn
Posted on: 3/21/2007 11:52 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5598658

RE: BlueTooth Kills RC Planes?
I used to have an aftermarket radio in a car and would place my cell phone just under in a pocket. I would always know I was about to get a call because I would hear a pattern of static blips just before the phone rang. I figured that FM radio is close enough in frequency that I did not want my cell phone anywhere near my Tx while flying. RF is a very difficult thing to track down. I spent a few years working as an assembler/test tech for a company that manufactured Vector Network Analizers. We would have at times different components create issues with other components. In your case Hawiian, I think that there is an issue with the airplane that is prodcing a noise level that your RX/powerbox setup is able to deal with marginally and then when something else comes along then the system is over the limit and you have a lockout. What I would do is check over the ignition, all extensions, switch leads. Another good indicator would be to get an amp meter and see if any of your servos are brawing more current than others to rule out a servo induced issue. Shawn
Posted on: 3/21/2007 11:24 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5595087

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: rctom [quote] If you've got one of these 35% beauties get in the shop and get after it. It only took me 7 or 8 days to get my prototype together without any instructions. You should be able to do it in 6. That way when the first good day of weather comes along you'll be ready to fly!!![:D] [/quote] Good weather? It's 70 deg. here almost every day now. This is our summertime. You see, Texas has 6 seasons. Autumn, Nov. 15 to Dec. 15. Winter, Dec 15 to Feb 1. Spring, Feb. 1 to March 1. Summer, March 1 to June 1. Super summer, June 1 to Sept. 15. Summer Sept. 15 to Nov. 15. Super summer is to Texas as Winter is to Minnesota. So as you can clearly see we are in prime flying months right now. TF [/quote] Was at EBRC this morning and it was in the high 70s wind at 7 mph and at a 45 to the runway. Had a blast and got some good practice in. If only we could get the 5955 gears to go into a 8611 case. Seriously I think that in the beginning Hitec had some software issues that have been fixed. I havent heard much about Hitec failures in a while and there are still 8611A's out there with bad motors. I did have a couple of beta 8711's here and yes, they do in fact have the same gear materials as the 8411-8611. Shawn
Posted on: 3/13/2007 1:34 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5553360

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
We had this conversation already did we not? Pat, if you still like the 8611s I will trade you 2 8611s for 1 5955. Looking at my stabs was pretty convincing I'm sure. A year ago I was a died in the wool JR servo guy untill I gave the new Hitecs a try. Shawn
Posted on: 3/12/2007 2:05 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5548238

RE: Smartfly power exp wiring diagram help.
[quote]ORIGINAL: JEFFRO503 [quote]ORIGINAL: rcblimppro I run the exact same setup that you came out with except that I have a Batt Share between the regulators and the Expander. I used the Batt Share HD that has dual inputs and dual outputs so each reg has its own input into the batt share... when the sticks get buried. Shawn oK......SO rcblimppro , are you running two smartfly regulator
Posted on: 3/9/2007 3:41 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5536036

RE: Smartfly power exp wiring diagram help.
I run the exact same setup that you came out with except that I have a Batt Share between the regulators and the Expander. I used the Batt Share HD that has dual inputs and dual outputs so each reg has its own input into the batt share and the Expander has two inputs from the batt share. Each side of the batt share is simply a diode and Robert at Smart Fly said the chanced of both diodes failing are practically zero so the system really is redubdant. Shawn
Posted on: 3/9/2007 10:21 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5534826

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: sailing1 RTK, I think you said your plane is set up with one 5955 for the rudder and if you were doing it again you would use two. My Sukhoi is also using one 5955 running off of a power box at 6.5 volts so I would think the strarting Torque to be maybe 350-360 oz or so. I am using a 3 inch arm. So far I haven't been able to notice a lack of rudder authority and have had a couple of people fly some of the more taxing IMAC moves with it and they didn't seem to think it needed more Rudder. Just curious -- how does the lack of rudder authority present itself on your plane or maybe a better way to ask is why do you think you need two servos? I sure don't want to risk my plane if I am not getting what I need out of one 5955. As to having two 5955 just for redundancy I can't see that would be needed. I have only had a servo fail in two ways, stripped gears which I don't think the 5955 is likely to do and locked up. If one 5955 locks up I doubt that the second one will overpower it. Thanks. [/quote] I was attempting to put the Sukhoi through the Unlimited roller. This is a 360 degree roller with 4 rolls alternating outside, inside every 90 degrees. This is the most rudder demanding manuver I have ever flown. I tend to fly it at a fair amount of speed. At a couple of points during the roller you need to hold some down elevator to maintain the circle but are at about a 45 degree upright bank so lots of rudder is needed to maintain altitude. RTK's setup looked close to a 1:1 ratio on his rudder geometry for max throw. He could move the linkage in on the servo arm and it would have plenty of power or retain the ratio and add a servo. Not really an issue I was just being very picky. With a single servo and moving the linkage in one hole on a 3" arm it would be fine. I expect we will see a few of these and the 41% extra during the '07 contest season. Shawn
Posted on: 3/8/2007 11:27 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5529900

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
[quote]ORIGINAL: sailing1 I also had a couple of pretty good IMAC guys at the field to help me and guess what -- the conclusion was that I needed 1 degree of right thrust and in my case maybe a 1/2 of down. I will probably do the right thrust first. I have my CG set up about 1/4 back from the leading edge of the wing tube and that seems pretty good for starters but I do get a noticeble roll to the canopy on my 45 degree check I also notice some roll to the canopy when in knife edge. Would mving the CG back just a touch help with that? Thanks Tom! [/quote] Tom, it sounds as if you are slightly more nose heavy than what Ralph was. This means you are carrying some up trim for level flight. When in knife or vertical position, that up trim will become more effective and you will have a pull to the canopy. Try setting the CG on the back edge of the wing tube . If you do end up going too aft it will start to pull to the gear. Very few airplanes are nuetral enough to dial this in with only CG and I think the Sukhoi is one of them. FYI my comp arf pictured earlier in this thread runs with 3 degrees right thrust and 1/2 degree up and with the correct CG I still have to employ a mix to eliminate the pitch coupling when rudder is applied. I was simply amazed by how little the Sukhoi needs but I am a firm beleiver in just giving the airplane what it tells me it needs. Shawn
Posted on: 3/6/2007 10:31 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5518807

RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly
Today was what the hobby is all about I think I can safly say that a great time was had by all of us. Well worth the 2 hr drive. Ok here we go Sukhoi first impressions. I really like the way this one looks, the color scheme just stands out and is not your run of the mill scheme. When Ralph gassed it and she was airborne in about 3 plane lengths all concerns about power were gone ( never really had any ). After he passed the TX to me it was clear from the get go that she flew quite lightly. From what Ralph had told me there was no aileron defferential put in but the rolls both horizontal and vertical showed litttle to no need for it. The ailerons were a little slow due to not enough deflection but were still positive. Hitting points on 4 and 8 point rolls was easy. A good indication that there is little or no pitch coupling when rudder is applied. At both ends of the speed envelope the airplane tracked very well and was equally happy flying at 1/4 power or 3/4 power. I never had to go to full power even while doing multiple rolls on an upline. Just a few very minor tweaks and the Sukhoi is ready to fight in the IMAC arena. I was quite surprised how little right rudder was needed on the uplines with zero right thrust. I think that 1 degree will fix that but if 3D is your thing then leaving it alone would hurt nothing. On the uplines it also wanted to tuck towards the gear but this is really only noticable on uplines of 500 ft or better. With a single servo the rudder did feel a little soft and I had a hard time keeping the nose up while trying a roller. This may change once the CG is moved back about 3/8-1/2". I would have to say there are very few 100cc ARF models out there at any price that will keep up with this one. Ralph, put in the 1 degree right thrust, move the CG and add about 10 degrees more of aileron and she willl be good to go. The CG shift may eliminate the need for up thrust so I would not do both at the same time. Shawn
Posted on: 3/5/2007 1:25 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5512342

RE: Different Servos
I think we need more information here, but here are some basics. If your linkage and gears are tight and the airplane still pitch hunts then you may be a bit on the tail heavy side. I was flying a 38% Extra with a single 8611 on each elevator and there was plenty of power. the airplane would only hunt when the gears got some wear on them and went away with a new gear set. Shawn
Posted on: 3/5/2007 12:55 AM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5512260

RE: Making the JUMP to 40%!
Cool airplane!!!!![:D] I hope to see it in Fresno, it will be like being reunited with a good friend LOL Shawn
Posted on: 3/2/2007 8:42 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5500714

RE: Would You Do This?
Doing it as per your drawing would work just fine, I have done the same and have seen it done that way litterally hundreds of times. It is actually easier to adjust/match the servos that way. Shawn
Posted on: 3/2/2007 7:53 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5500476

RE: JR Servo selection
I would go with Hitec 5955 servos. yes they are overkill for this application but I am assuming that this airplane is going to be powered with a 50cc gasser where the servos will be subjected to a fair amount of vibration . The 5955 servos will wear better than others because of the Titanium gears. These servos can be bought for 90.00 each if you shop around. if you went with a slightly less powerful servo you could maybe save 15.00 to 20.00 per servo for a total savings of about 100.00. Not all that much when you consider the total investment. Shawn
Posted on: 2/28/2007 12:17 PM by Author "rcblimppro" in the forum "IMAC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5488628