RE: glue for robbe montega
Indeed, most epoxies refuse to bond to plastic. One exception is Milliput. You can use it for a gap filler, sculpting or strengthening fillets. Just not as the main glue for the basic hull.
Posted on: 10/31/2009 4:42 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218099

RE: Dumas 36
Check on RC Groups. It's a great boat. But it can be a bit intimidating. Have you ever built a "woodie" before?
Posted on: 10/31/2009 4:37 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218086

RE: Reduction gear
How could I have forgetten? [8|] The Dumas brass gear set is available in a 3:1 ratio. A bit noisy though.
Posted on: 10/30/2009 11:26 AM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9214939

RE: Reduction gear
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=electrifly+gear Not sure what motor you are attaching to, but Tower has some Electrifly brand gear reducitons options to consider I recently bolted the first item in the search results onto a Master Airscrew 550 motor. Worked out very well.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:48 AM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205887

RE: Need some advice/help on electrical work on PT 109
California. You are correct and I am cross-eyed. [8|] Well, if you can't find it locally, you may still need to mail order.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 1:25 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198558

RE: Need some advice/help on electrical work on PT 109
The only place I know of in NJ is Ultimate Hobbies. They do have a store front somewhere, but I have ordered from them as they have excellent battery prices and free ground shipping. Here is a Venom brand 6 cell NiMH battery pack. [link=http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=VNR1532!1001]venom battery pack[/link]
Posted on: 10/23/2009 12:16 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196055

RE: MACK Model Products Gearbox
Thanks for asking and for the information. A truck transmission in a boat? Why not. I just mounted Electrifly's sailplane (2.5:1) gear in a new warship. We don't see too many of our scale boats challenge the physical limits of nylon gears and oillite bearings. But, I can certainly understand why the nitro guys forsake the gearing.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 12:00 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196018

RE: MACK Model Products Gearbox
The gearbox you might be referring to (model 1541) appears to be constructed like the other gearboxes with oillte bearings. But I would ask MACK to confirm that. If he was hesitant to recommend it, you may have your answer - you may need a different gear box. Have you posted this question in one of power boat forums. This should be right up their alley.
Posted on: 10/21/2009 7:46 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9191814

RE: MACK Model Products Gearbox
The folks at MACK know what they are doing. Perhaps they can refer you to someone who has used that gearbox in a hydroplane setup?
Posted on: 10/20/2009 6:16 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9188978

RE: MACK Model Products Gearbox
Gears are often a noisy affair. I just installed a nylon gear set originally meant for sailplanes in my WWII destroyer. Very quiet with fairly strong construction. But perhaps not strong enough for racing. What is the application you are considering gearing?
Posted on: 10/19/2009 12:06 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185234

RE: Need some advice/help on electrical work on PT 109
Since I can not view the photos at work here, I want to ask if you have an in-line fuse somewhere in the system. If not, you'll want to add one. Especially if you convert to a Proboat ESC. The Vipers are reputed to use SmartFETS, which are transistors that detect an overload and automatically shut down. I would still hedge my bet with an in-line fuse. Let us know what the hobby store recommends for an ESC. They may not carry ProBoat or will try to sell you something already on the shelf. For a single motor setup, you can't go too far wrong however. Let us know how it goes from here. Post photos if you run into trouble.
Posted on: 10/19/2009 12:03 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185228

RE: Need some advice/help on electrical work on PT 109
hansvonpensch is 100% correct. Get rid of the old ESC. It is a mechanical type and may no longer work very well. The Proboat is fine and the Viper brand is also a good choice. As for "go power", it is a bit tough to get jaw dropping performance on one small prop and one small motor. If the performance is not up to par, you may want to go with larger components (prop, motor, etc) or convert to a twin prop setup. The two spare battery clips appear to be for the main battery pack. You can use the type used in rc cars, a 6cell 3000mAH Nickel Metal pack but you'll need to change out the clips for Tamiya connectors. You'll also need a battery charger. Also check with the local hobby store on the vintage of your radio. If this is really on old boat, you may not have a legal radio. With a lot of folks now converting to 2.4Ghz, you may find numerous 75mhz radios available at local hobby shows and swap meets at a really great price. Is there a ship model club in the area? They would be glad to help out with your project. You can work through these issues on your own (with our help), but it would be best if you had a crew around you that had been down this road before.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 11:55 AM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182700

RE: How to seal a wooden boat? (many pinholes)
If your wood planks are tight and water entry is not the main problem, you may be able to just fill the pinholes with epoxy, sand, and repaint. Just not sure of how much damage your are trying to repair. While it would be best to see a photo of what you are trying to do, here are some very generic tips for wood hulls... Wood has a limited lifespan around water. So, to keep the planks from separating and other damage at bay, it is best to encase both the inside and outside of the wood with a fiberglass/cloth combination. Lay out the fiberglass cloth and using a squeege, apply some long-cure time epoxy slightly thinned out with lacquer thinner. I have tried alcohol as a thinner, but have encountered some problems. If it is not 100% pure, it has some amount of water which turns the epoxy into a gooey mess. Using a body-putty type squeege allows me to control the thickness, make efficient use of the epoxy, and avoid most runs and drips. For the cloth, it depends on the size of the hull. You can buy cloth in various weights, (3/4, 1, 2 oz etc), but the larger the model, the more weight it has to bear and therefore the thicker the cloth. For most models, it may not matter. Just so you have some amount of material in the epoxy layer to tie it all together. Also keep in mind that the thicker the cloth, the more time it takes for the epoxy to soak through. This is where longer cure times and the squeege really help out. For Chris Craft type hulls, the lighter cloth will disappear when immersed in epoxy which still allows the wood grain to show through. Sanding, a second coat of epoxy, followed by a coat of varnish will give you that highly finished "wood boat" appearance. If the appearance of the wood grain is not important, just sand it smooth and paint it. The only caveat is to really clean the epoxy before sanding and adding the next layer. The curing of the resin usually pushes a wax-like substance to the surface that can interfere with the next layer of epoxy, varnish, or paint. Let us know what you decide to do.
Posted on: 9/20/2009 10:10 AM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9109546

RE: drive train help
Rick, Thanks for the tips on LiPo. Since I need another charger, I have deceided to get a LiPo compatible unit. When NiMH first came out, the prices were twice what they are now. I expect the same for LiPo. The advantages are just too good to pass up. I have one model that absolutely needs NiCads because the heavier Nickel Metals weigh it down past the water line. That will be my first LiPo conversion.
Posted on: 9/14/2009 11:51 AM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9094621

RE: drive train help
[i]all 3 running forward and only the ctr capably of reverse[/i] Argh, I misread you on that one. I was thinking of having it run in opposite rotation. Rich is right. Put some power behind it or leave it out. I have seen several 4' PT boats and you will need three modest sized motors or two very big, heavy, and amp-hungry motors. As for the ESC, don't skimp on price. Buy a good one and protect it. Fuses without a doubt. Cooling is good because heat is the main enemy of an ESC. I would like to hear more about LiPos. Sizes, prices, capacities, etc. Has anyone used them in a boat like this?
Posted on: 9/8/2009 4:19 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9079265

RE: drive train help
You might also consider the Traxxas 14v Marine Titan motor. Good efficiency for the amount of thrust. As for the ESC, research all the various brands, Electronize, Traxxas, Novak, and Jomar. I have never tried the JETI controllers, but the Vipers seem to work quite well. As for Vantec, they have the most accurate amperage ratings. Not inflated to sell units. When they advertise "continuous" amps, they mean it. For some makers, "continuous" really means a short 2 to 3 minute contest between cars or trucks. Be sure to properly fuse your motors to protect your investment in the ESC. As for the three motor, two ESC arrangement, that is not a bad solution. It might be tough to find an ESC that could feed all three hungry motors. It also offers bit of redundancy for reliability. As for gel cells, only if you want ballast. Run times - 30 minutes is a bit of a stretch. Depends on how much throttle you want to use. Being a PT boat, you'll want to see it you on plane most of the time. I think Tachikaze has the right call.
Posted on: 9/7/2009 9:20 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9077307

RE: Dumas American Beauty Plans
Scott: This just in from a fellow club member... [i]"The man who was asking about the Dumas model should go to http//oldriverbillzumwalt.members.ktis.net and also towboatjoe@yahoo.com. I didn't built the Dumas version and I don't have plans, but the illustrations that are on these web sites would show him what he needs to know"[/i]
Posted on: 9/7/2009 2:26 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9076348

RE: Dumas American Beauty Plans
In case anyone does not have these plans, you may need to know that Dumas does not respond to email. But I have had good results just calling and talking to someone live. I often need to just purchase one or two parts for repairs. So, I suspect that buying a set of plans should not be a problem. I think one of our club members has an American Beauty. I'll give him an email to see what he has tucked in the closet.
Posted on: 9/6/2009 9:03 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9074701

RE: A good beginner boat kit?
[i]Revell Corvette[/i] That is a worthy choice. I have seen enough Lindberg PT109s to last a while. (I have one as well) The corvette is a bit less common and easier to add RC gear.
Posted on: 8/30/2009 3:01 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9056787

RE: A good beginner boat kit?
I seems that everyone I talk to about this subject has a different opinion. But to make a project worth your time, it needs to reflect your favorite boating subject and your current skill level? In general, a plastic (fiberglass, GRP, etc) hull and a stick built superstructure generally provide enough challenge for the first time modeler. Be sure that the model you choose comes with all of the running gear you need. As for the models you mentioned here... Whitehall - I saw a finished Whitehall at a Regatta two years ago. I was quite impressed with the looks and the way it ran. In spite of its small size, I think it would be a good choice for a first warship project. Dumas Coast Guard - This is an all wood project. A great looking boat when finished. Since it is a painted hull, any flaws in the woodwork can be easily hidden with epoxy and paint. The same holds true for the Crocket Gun Boat as well. Others to consider - Midwest Products. The Fireboat is a bit tight on the insides if you add a pump for the monitors. I would steer away from that one and select the Liberty Tug. I have seen many of the tugs in action and not only do they run well, the owners have a lot of fun figuring how to individualize them. As for Midwest's other products, the Lobster boat is a great looking model as well as its stablemate, the Cranberry Isle Lobster Yacht. The plan here is to get some other members to add to the list here so you can do your own research.. Have fun deciding and let us know what you chose to build.
Posted on: 8/28/2009 6:45 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9052787

RE: Smoked motor - suitable replacement?
[i]Can anyone explain why the addition of the gearbox makes such a big difference in his case? Is there any reason why not to use a gearbox? [/i] When hooked up to a large diameter or a high pitch prop, electric motors can not spin as freely as they should. And electric motors in this situation tend to draw far too much current for the gage of the wire in their windings. This resembles a problem often encountered in electric motors called the "locked rotor" effect. The locked rotor effect is often seen when a prop is unable to turn due to weeds or grass and the electronic speed control melts down. This is because the locked rotor caused the current draw to exceed the ESC's rating and the poor boater realized he either did not fuse the motor or installed too large of a fuse. The gear is like a lever and you are multiplying the torque available. Naturally as in all things, you don't something for free and what you lose is RPMs. So if you simply gear down, you get fewer RPMs and you lose thrust. But you've also cut your current consumption. Now you have some spare amperage to play with. To restore top end performance with fewer RPMs, you now want to push more water by using a more agressive prop (either increase pitch or increase the diameter). Then you will be taking advantage of the increased torque available from your gears. It may seem is if you are back to where you started by not quite. What you have gained is efficiency. Once the motor is allowed to spin at a higher RPM, courtesy of the gearing, the motor draws a reasonable amount of current that in turn greatly reduces heat. And the big aggressive prop you need for high end performance is not longer a challenge for the motor to turn. Gearing is great but is does take up valuable room in smaller boats and adds to the cost of the project. Think about it this way. If you took a small motor and wanted to spin a 100 foot diameter prop, you expect the motor to either die trying or require gearing. While this example is highly exaggerated, you can tell that without gearing, the motor is going to get smoked. What your original prop did was to scale down the 100' prop to a size where the motor was able to hold out for a few minutes.
Posted on: 8/27/2009 5:26 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9050109

RE: Smoked motor - suitable replacement?
a test like rcshipyard describes,according to the Graupner figures,use a prop at 15 amp for maximum
Posted on: 8/11/2009 6:27 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9008481

RE: Smoked motor - suitable replacement?
As someone who has destroyed my fair share of Speed 400s, I can attest that replacing them with a 500 sized motor is a good idea. First, you should not be pulling anywhere near 15 amps through a little Speed 400. And running a motor rated at 6v at a higher voltage will decrease its service life. When it comes to actually measuring amps, I have put a high capacity amp meter in line with the battery, but the resistance of the shunt seems to alter the very system I am trying to observe. But it does give me a ballpark idea. Sometimes, if the motor just sounds like it is bogged down or turning too slowly, either the prop is too aggressive or the motor is too small. Changing one or the other could remedy the situation. Seems a bit strange though if the prop came with the kit and you are using the recommended motor. Though I had just posted another response about recommending products from MACK Model Marine, I am not an salesman, just a customer. They have good quality motors and systems. I recently bought their 5045 motor and it is a gem. A great replacement for any 6V "500" sized motor. I can not tell how many poles it has, but it clearly has 10 to 12 clicks as you spin the shaft. Most cheap 500 motors are 3 pole, 19 to 22 turn units and relatively inefficient for the number of amps they consume. You may want to consider the 5045 or another high quality 550 or 540 motor to get your boat back in the water.
Posted on: 8/11/2009 5:23 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9008325

RE: Dumas 1938 Chris Craft
Check with M.A.C.K. Model Marine. http://www.mackproductsrc.com/new_products.htm If they do not have one listed for your model, the one meant for the Dumas model 1230 may work. Best bet may be to call and talk to them about it. I have the Dumas 1230 (1930 Runabout) which is almost as large and heavy as the 1938 runabout. My approach was to be cheap and save money. I simply installed a Speed 700 motor. But I did purchase a decent speed controller - a Vantec with a heat sink. I get a good 15 to 20 minutes of scale speed cruising from a 4200 mAH battery pack. Let us know what you decide to do.
Posted on: 8/11/2009 5:04 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9008274

RE: Steam Pickett from plans
WOW That is looking good.
Posted on: 6/24/2009 4:05 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8877705

RE: Steam picket, what type of wood for deck
One problem you may need to watch for is scale. Some woods with large open pores (oak) do not look good on a small scale boat. You may try some common woods you have access to with different stains. Most scale judges do not look for the exact wood that was used on the prototype. Teak is not required on a battleship model for example. A tight-grained wood stained to resemble teak may look closer to scale than teak. Don't forget that even the same woods will have dramatically different grain and pore patterns depending on how the wood was cut. I don't have the latest Constantine catalog, but they used to have a small diagram expalining the different cuts and resulting patterns. As for reacting to mositure, I am not sure if you are saying "no" to fiberglass, which for a deck is "ok" or opting for exposed wood??. The lack of decent sealant such as varnish may cause problems down the road. Varnish has the right "look" and some urathanes can be acceptable. Might you consider a straight varnish?
Posted on: 6/16/2009 7:25 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8857481

RE: Steam picket, what type of wood for deck
That may depend on where it was built. In that era, the yards often tapped into local forrests for their lumber.
Posted on: 6/14/2009 6:45 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8851690

RE: Soldering Brass fixings
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt">Good tips. RoHS solders generally require a bit more heat than lead based solders. But if your joints need a little sanding or filing, RoHS is a must. As for silver solder, it does have more mechanical strength then any of the standard formulas. However, if your joints are not seeing any stress or strain, all good clean solder joint should last indefinitely. I would be interested in hearing your thoughts (or anyone’s thoughts) on the various resistance soldering systems out there.
Posted on: 6/7/2009 4:47 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8833188

RE: Has Anyone Converted A Plastic Model To R/C?
"I've bought the Minicraft 1:350 Titanic and will be trying to build an RC model out of it. Should be a fun tchallenge. My big build is kinda slow at the moment, I am waiting for parts to be machined and general figurin. " I successfully converted a Minicraft Titantic to RC and converted the appearance of the vessel from Titanic to the Olympic at the same time. The model runs just fine in smooth water, but I made one major error. I did not reduce enough top side weight. To acheive enough stability to operate on the water, I had to add ballast to the point where the model's water line is well below the surface. If you can removed a good portion of the plastic deck that is not visible, you be much better off. Topside weight is often a problem with static plastic to RC conversions.
Posted on: 4/18/2009 4:46 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8693376

RE: American Beauty.
One of the members in my club has an American Beauty. It's a solid and reliable boat. It appears you did an outstanding job. I especially love the "bow-on" shot. How was take photo taken? Generally, we just lay down on the shore, and drop the camera down as close as we can to the water and snap away. I would like to devlope a system for taking on the water pictures. Does anyone have anything better? An "on the water" platform with a servo controlled shutter mechanism?
Posted on: 4/12/2009 1:21 PM by Author "rcshipyard" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8673783