RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: thom25 Richard, Re-consider using the side hatch. After you are done painting it can be covered with a small piece Monokote... no one will see it when it's flying. As far as the stab/elevator, Glue in the stab with the elevator control horn loose. Fit the top blocks and vertical fin then glue them in place. Then glass and paint the fuse, stab and fin all at once. After you glass and paint you can then hinge and attach the elevators which will hold the elevator control horn in place and Bob's your uncle. Thom [/quote] Thom, Shall work with your idea. Might be a case of cutting the hatch, getting the parts installed and the linkage hooked-up, and then replacing the hatch before glassing. It sounds as though you used bearings and secured the elevator joiner with control horn to the stab. In my case, the elevator control horn is silver-soldered to the elevator joiner which is firmly glued into the elevator halves. This may have been a mistake, although I couldn't say why it might be (other than possibly making this step more awkward). I'm also using Robart hinges. Therefore, it appears that the elevator will need to be permanently attached to the stab before the stab is glued to the fuse. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 5/28/2012 1:30 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11097593

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Jeff, Many thanks! Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 5/28/2012 1:17 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11097582

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, Many congratulations on a most well-deserved award and many thanks for all the updates and pictures. With any luck, they will inspire me to get back to work on my Simla. I'm afraid I haven't done anything since going to Ohio for my father-in-law's funeral two weeks ago. A fine man and very much missed. A major holdup for me is the complexity introduced by the hidden elevator linkage. Basically, it looks like the linkage will have to be fit and mounted before the bottom sheeting and top blocks are glued in. This then means that the horizontal stab and elevator have to be glued on before painting them and before glassing the fuse. I looked at the idea of cutting a hatch on the side at the tail, but the fuse is too narrow to allow it to be made removable/replaceable. Anyway, being a perfectionist, the unfamiliar mechanics have brought me to a standstill. I probably just need to do *something* and get off dead center if I hope to fly this before winter returns. Still looking for a small (and not expensive) compressor so I can paint with something other than rattle cans. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 5/16/2012 7:07 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11082876

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bill, Bloody gorgeous! I can't draw lines that straight with a ruler; never mind spraying paint. Mine will not approach that. Actually, I'm not even sure how I'm going to paint it. I'm pretty much out of funds, so picking up the other items I need for spray painting is not going to happen. Hate to say it, but rattle cans may be the way I have to go. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 4/6/2012 1:56 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11031024

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Drat! Went to fit the second aileron and it had warped severely. When it arrived (months ago) both were perfectly flat and straight. Have ordered more from Balsa USA, along with the other parts to build the new wing. Probably a good time after work to shape the fuse. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/28/2012 8:01 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11018427

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Thom, Much appreciate your detailed description of your construction. I'll probably steal some ideas for my next build. As it turned out, the sheeting for the left and right wing panels was equal (before filling and sanding). I expect to be able to rough check the CG and lateral balance fairly soon (assuming that glassing and painting will produce only a minimal change in the ratios). At least it will give me an idea of where the battery should go. A couple days ago, while carefully hand-fitting the servo hatches, I realized that I should have made the hatches equal, and then cut the sheeting *after* it had been sanded. You've confirmed that, and I'll do it on the next wing that I'll build for my Simla. (Parts are being cut as we speak. Thank you, Jeff!) The present wing is, in my opinion, a disaster, but I'm completing it to further my education. The replacement wing will be perfect. (Okay, how about much improved?) Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/27/2012 1:15 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11017295

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Apropos of nothing that's been discussed, I was given a link to a useful video that describes how to locate the holes in the fuselage for a pull-pull rudder system. http://www.mnbigbirds.com/Pull%20Pull%20Video%20Pg.htm If anyone is interested, I took notes and transcribed them to a text file that I'm attaching to this message. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/27/2012 1:00 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11017280

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bloody gorgeous! Now you can come to Colorado and finish mine. ;-) Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/25/2012 2:53 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11014588

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Thom, Grazie. Shall give it a very close look. Richard
Posted on: 3/23/2012 2:07 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012225

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
The side hatch is an interesting idea, and I'll see how well it would work on mine. I am, however, using a rigid carbon fiber pushrod. I do like the simplicity of your control setup. Going with the pull-pull on the rudder has got the servos scattered all over the compartment, and to get a non-kinked run to the nose wheel, I had to use a separate servo. So, one each for rudder, elevator, nose gear, and throttle. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/23/2012 1:54 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012214

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
I haven't seen a close-up of the Simla wing tip, so I'm taking my best guess here. Do these look like they're moving in the right direction? Thank you, Richard
Posted on: 3/23/2012 1:37 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012195

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: pimmnz An invite to the States? Intruiging thought. Shipping the model(s) would be the biggie, I am owed a cheapish flight as it is...And you fellas might not allow my R/C gear on 40 mHz, though I could possibly borrow a 72 module and rx...Hmm, I will think on... Evan. [/quote] Evan, Better yet, get a 2.4Ghz module for your transmitter and a matching receiver. I have an older Futaba 8Uas that uses channel modules. A year or so ago I got a Hitec module and it's worked perfectly ever since. Love not worrying about the frequency pin. Or, if your transmitter won't take a 2.4Ghz module, just buy a 2.4Ghz receiver and borrow someone's matching transmitter. Binding the receiver is a matter of only a minute. Cheers, Richard P.S.: I still think the first Simla Fly-In should be held in Simla, Colorado.
Posted on: 3/21/2012 6:17 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11010093

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Thanks for all the tips. I apologize for not being clear that I've already created and attached the horn and have hinged (but not glued) the elevator to the stab. I use Robart hinges because I'm used to them. Here are several images that show my setup and the limited space in which I have to work. I don't think a hatch all the way back will provide enough room to be able to attach the control rod linkage. Please ignore the filler and primer. I checked and they only add 3.6 pounds to the stab. The surfaces already are glassed. Obviously, a bit more cleanup is necessary. So it sounds like the best plan for the stab is to permanently glue it in, without gluing the elevator. Everything gets painted, and then the control linkage is attached to the elevator and the elevator glued in. I'm going to see if I can, indeed, attach the linkage with the stab glued in place. If I can't, I'll permanently fix the elevator to the stab, then fit the control rod linkage to the control horn, glue in the stab, and try to keep paint out of the hinges. Unless someone has a better plan. Which someone usually does. ;-) Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/21/2012 6:10 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11009711

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bill, You're back! Question: I got some of those inexpensive masks to keep the balsa and primer and filler dust out of my lungs, but the way the mask fits, my glasses fog up almost immediately. Is there any type of mask that will avoid this problem (and not break what little remains of my bank account)? And another question: Did you glue in the horizontal stab with elevator before painting? To me, with the hidden control horn, it looks like I'll have to glue in the elevator hinges, hook up the control horn end of the control rod, and glue on the stab before everything is closed up. This then means that the stab and elevator are already joined instead of being painted and then joined. Even if I make a bottom hatch at the very tail, it doesn't look like I would have enough room to attach the controls to the elevator horn. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/20/2012 3:04 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11008679

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, You have never given offense. I just became a trifle irked about the "basic modelling knowledge" comments in another message with the inference that I (and everyone else), should be born with that knowledge. As a side comment, I would like to offer a small diatribe against American RC magazines that feature ARF after ARF after ... and precious little, if any real building information. (RC Modeler started offering some good stuff right before it closed shop. Model Airplane News has not picked up the slack.) And don't get me started on the "the age of electrics is here" assertion. I have to subscribe to a couple British rags (Aviation Modeller International and Flying Scale Models), to get any useful information. Damn! Those Brits can build! 29-foot span Lancaster bombers from self-drawn plans, etc. For my part, the build progresses and should speed up a bit as the weather offers the occasional clear day so I can sand/paint outside, and the tax prep is on its way to my accountant. Right now, I'm slightly puzzled by the fact that the LE of my ailerons is not cut square. In other words, if the LE is placed against a flat surface, the centerline through the width will not be perpendicular to the flat surface. I'm assuming it's just the way it was cut with the expectation that the LE will be beveled, and not because the aileron was expected to be hinged at the top. That *thin* tip block extension along the width of the aileron has caused some problems, and I'll probably have to do some judicious laminating with 1/64 balsa and reshape that area, at least on the first tip. And speaking of the ailerons, I'm assuming they, too, should be glassed. I picked up a couple Paasche airbrushes, hoses, pressure gauge, and various accessories at the RC auction back in February (all for $30). Now I'm looking for a smallish 2-gallon compressor (used would be good). There's also a Paasche brush that sprays a 2-inch wide line that I may buy to apply the overall primer and base coat. Although perhaps a larger unit, such as is sold by Harbor Freight, might offer quicker and more uniform coverage. Basically, this model is costing a bloody fortune. On the plus side, I'll have knowledge, equipment and supplies available for the next model. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/19/2012 7:29 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11006802

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Taxes sucked up much of my weekend, but the mess goes off to my accountant tomorrow and I'll be able to spend more time on the Simla. Done priming and sanding the wing panels. Very little primer or filler left after the sanding. After I shape the tips and fit the ailerons, I'll glass the wings. Than back to finish the fuse. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/18/2012 3:12 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11005829

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Okay, here's my current plan of attack. I'll prime and sand until only patches of primer remain. I'll check each patch and, if it's a deep depression (there's a couple), I'll fill it. If the primer feels like it's smooth (it starts very rough), I'll assume it's now at the level of the sheeting and leave it alone. If it still feels a bit rough, I'll keep sanding. (My idea of fun really does not include using body filler.) After that, it's glassing time. Not film. I need the practice. And if this wing turns out to be heavy and brittle, I'll build a light wing with all I've learned. (I already have a new complete kit.) This whole model is a learning experience for me. Now, let me address the comments about the lack of basic modeling knowledge, with emphasis on me not having that knowledge. I started building basic control-line back when I was in grade school and have the scars to prove it (nasty little Fox .35). Then, following the demise of my last plane early in high school, I waited a while before getting back into the hobby. About 40 years to be more precise. I started with a second- (or third or fourth) hand trainer and moved into a series of ARFs, most of which had "non-standard" landings and from which parts were salvaged. The only model I built was a Tiger 60 that, amazingly enough, is still in its original number of pieces. Recently, I realized that I was tired of the same old ARFs and uninteresting kits, and concluded that I would have to build from plans or, preferably, plans plus cut parts. My first foray into that was a Ki-61 "Tony" from Don Smith plans. No instructions. After pooching my third (or fourth) version of the horizontal stab, I put it away with the realization that I had bitten off WAY more than I could chew. A couple years passed before I saw the Simla article in Model Aviation and decided it would be a better place to start. But I guarantee that, had it not been for this thread, I'd still be puzzling over the instructions. This model probably really is not a perfect "first timer's build." To make matters worse, the only builders my club had have died. (Taking with them the basic modeling knowledge.) Everyone else is ARFs and composite jets. So, to end a lengthy tale, I make a LOT of mistakes and ask a LOT of questions. Next time around, though, I'll be able to answer someone else's questions. I've already shown my build and explained where I pooched things to two of my club members who also are going to build the Simla. BTW, I wouldn't have any trouble building the Tony's stab now. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/16/2012 6:29 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11003349

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, Thank you for such a detailed explanation. That's the method I used for the top sheeting of each wing panel. Only on the bottom surfaces did I use the individual plank method. (I think the pictures I posted of the low spots are of the wing panel that collapsed when I was weighting down the skin. Despite my best efforts, it looks like I did not get everything flat again.) I am confused when you say you sheet one surface, turn the wing over and dribble CA, then sheet that surface and dribble CA again. I'm obviously missing something important here, because I don't see how you can dribble CA along the rib when it's now covered on both sides. BTW, after pre-shaping the skin, it wasn't real good about holding anything more than a faint impression of the curved shape. The lack of humidity here may or may not have something to do with that. In other words, perhaps the sheet dries too quickly. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/15/2012 12:45 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11001388

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, Thanks for the tips. Shall see what I can do. (Although what you see is what's left *after* I smoothed the ridges.) I do wish I knew exactly how I got all the low spots. I had checked the height of the ribs with a straight-edge to make sure they were uniform. Perhaps the weights I used on the one side to hold the large sheeting in place. Or this may have been the panel that collapsed. Whatever the reason, it's a trifle frustrating. Any suggestions on what you do to avoid high-and-low spots on the next wing would be most appreciated. Speaking of which, I need to ping Jeff (who has been busy with his day job) to see if he has enough parts left over from the last run to make up a wing kit. I also had suggested that I'd be happy to foot the bill if he wanted to use me as a test case with a cutter in his area who wants Jeff's business. I *will* get at least one set of wings correct. May not get as much done on the Simla this weekend as I had hoped. I need to finish the tax stuff to get to my accountant Monday. Bother! (I don't like my Uncle Sam that much.) Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/15/2012 7:15 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11000938

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bill, You being the paint guru here, what should I do next? The three images show one of the wing panels after a coating of a bluish high-build sandable primer and then sanding. Since I knew I had some ridges where the sheets met, I used 80-grit paper on a long sanding bar and sanded with the grain (lengthwise). The areas that the sanding didn't hit are pretty evident. My question is: Do I continue with the prime-and-sand until the primer fills the low spots, or do I apply filler to all the bluish areas and then prime-and-sand? It didn't make much difference with the stab, since it's fairly small. But four panels like this could use up a lot of primer and/or filler. Many thanks, Richard
Posted on: 3/14/2012 6:33 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11000388

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Wings finally sheeted. Not a pretty sight. I may have to buy a carton of body filler. But I will finish and use them until I can build a new set. Correctly. Roughing-in the tips. BTW, I did discover that the extra thick CA (Bob Smith Industries) that I have, and that says it will cure in 15 to 25 seconds, actually takes more than two minutes to cure with dry balsa and the very dry atmosphere we have here (about 15 percent humidity). This gives me time to apply it to all the ribs and so on. I actually have to hit it with kicker. The weather is supposed to be nice through Saturday, so I should be able to hit the wings with a light coat of primer to sand so I can find the high and low spots; *and* sand the lower fuse and blocks. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/14/2012 8:34 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10999739

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bill, Thank you. Seems like a reasonable process. I do think I'll sand down the most obvious faults, first. With any luck, the light I see shining dimly at the end of the tunnel is not an oncoming train. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/9/2012 5:43 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10993524

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
As I finish sheeting the wing panels, it occurs to me that I'll probably have to use some body filler. Is it better to have it under the glass or on top? It's under the glass on the stabilizers. Thanks, Richard
Posted on: 3/9/2012 2:51 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10993349

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Thom25, Wow! I'm guessing that this is not your first model. Beautiful workmanship. Thank you for the images and good description. I'm beginning to get a clue. Duane and Bill, The temp here is 36 with colder temps, snow and winds forecast into Sunday, so it looks like it will be a while before I can get the fuse outside to sand. While I'm waiting for the weather to improve, I've started sheeting the bottoms of the wing panels (and having my normal batch of problems). To make sure the sheeting adheres to the ribs, I'm applying the sheets individually. I did fit them as if I were going to glue them into one large sheet. Had just enough sheets from the two semi-bad orders from National Balsa (a company I won't use again). I've determined that CA is the only way to go to get the sheet to stick to the TE (and probably the LE). So wood glue on the ribs but CA when it comes to the edges. Cheers, Richard (who feels that he may actually finish the Simla before he's placed in the Colorado State Home for the Bewildered)
Posted on: 3/7/2012 6:14 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10990678

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Truth to tell, I'm still feeling more than a bit clueless. To me, it all sounds as though the bottom blocks should be thicker to allow sanding without removing the upwards curve of the fuse while simultaneously allowing a curved surface to the underside. And because the forward bottom block has been hollowed out, it is particularly resistant to being raised above the level of the formers while retaining enough thickness to support the hold-down bolts. I suppose the hollowed-out area can be partially filled with scrap balsa. Although laminating on another 1/4-inch of balsa to the bottom blocks seems like the way to go. To me, this is an instance of the instructions saying "Magic happens here." It's a trifle frustrating to a first-time builder. Oh, well. Onward. Cheers(?), Richard
Posted on: 3/6/2012 9:19 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10988720

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Before I get carried away with sanding the bottom blocks, this is what I understand from the plans and from several images in this thread. These images include: - Side view in Post 108 by Duane - Post 117 by Bill - Last image (2 fuselages) in post 120 It seems that the bottom blocks are inserted so they are flush with the bottom curve of the firewall and the two formers. (See my images.) However, as is seen in the last image I took, if the front bottom block is positioned as described, the entire bottom curve of the fuse, from the first former to the firewall, is going to be removed, as shown by the red box. Is this correct? I want to make sure because I can't imagine Duane and Jeff getting this wrong when cutting the fuse sides. The only way I can think of to retain the curve is to glue on some balsa to the bottom front block. But no-one has mentioned having to do this, so I'm stumped. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thank you, Richard aka Confused in Colorado
Posted on: 3/5/2012 7:32 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10988058

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bill, I thought that was "until the cows come home." Did you use the same sanding method for the top blocks? I've got them roughed-in and plan to finish shaping them when I've glued them in (which won't be until after I connect the elevator and rudder linkages). Thanks for the information. If you go just by the plans, the two bottom blocks look like they are finished flush with the bottom of the fuse. The images that have been posted clearly show a rounded top to the bottom. (If that makes sense.) A couple members of my flying club dropped by this afternoon. They have just received their Simla kits and I showed them all my mistakes so they wouldn't make them. One is going electric, and the other also is mounting an O.S. 1.20, but plans to use retracts. Now that there's local competition, I'll have to speed up my work. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/4/2012 5:24 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10986533

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Question: Is there some guideline for how much the two bottom blocks should extend above the level of the fuse? It also looks from the pictures that have been posted that the blocks don't fair completely smoothly into the fuse sides; especially the front block. Is this correct? Thank you, Richard
Posted on: 3/4/2012 11:51 AM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10986169

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Here are my current thoughts on a servo layout. The rails are tack-glued in and can be tapped out if it doesn't look like this setup is the best. For the rudder wires, I would have to cut two slots, about an inch long each, into the former. This should not affect its strength. The receiver can fit on a tray mounted "on top" of the wing tube. Does anyone have any comments about this proposed setup? Thank you, Richard
Posted on: 3/2/2012 8:56 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10984403

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Considering that I pooched the ability to hold the panels with the jig, I've been thinking (yeah, dangerous) that instead of creating a sheet for the bottom skin, I would get the strips fitted but apply them one at a time instead of risking warping the panels by holding sheets down with a bunch of weights. This would let me use the dribble method. After I had applied the large sheets to the top surfaces, I found a number of spots where the skin had not stuck to the ribs. So there was a certain amount of press-and-glue. I also ran CA along each rib/skin join. The top skin is *not* coming off. I wouldn't be able to do that if I create entire skins again. Cheers, Richard
Posted on: 3/1/2012 1:58 PM by Author "rg1911" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10983293