RE: 2.4Mhz What talks to what???
Hi ken, First of all thanks for taking the time to sort me out with the info which you have supplied, I really do appreciate your efforts. Satellite recievers, does the same principles apply (I assume so) or can one just mix and match on these. I would expect that if I was using two satellites then they would have to be both of the same series. Thanks John
Posted on: 5/31/2011 8:37 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10550963

RE: 2.4Mhz What talks to what???
Thanks for your input. Talk about making things confusing, so if I understand correctly then DSMJ transmitter module will only talk to DSMJ receiver - YES???. So equipment that is generically labelled DSM compatible is not strictly correct , in which case my JR DSMJ Transmit module IS NOT compatible with a JR R921 DSM2??. In which case what should a buyer be looking for to ensure that there are no compatability issues, the Spektrum DSM2 module system lists all the JR Transmitters which it is compatible with but no mention of compatible receivers??
Posted on: 5/31/2011 6:57 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10550773

2.4Mhz What talks to what???
Within the last 12 mths I purchased a new JR 11X Zero Transmitter with a TD 2.4JM Module this module is labelled DSM J. I later purchased two JR 921 receivers labelled DSM2. Can anyone explain why these will not bind and why eqipment advertised as being DSM compatible in fact may not work with other DSM eqipment. At the moment I have several items (all labelled DSM) which will not talk to each other. It would be great if someone could advise as to what will work with what, brand crossing and all. Also how does Modulation selection effect the ability to bind or not.
Posted on: 5/31/2011 5:34 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10549572

RE: lets talk moki 250 radial and solo props
Have been using a Solo prop for two years now on a 84" Gee Bee. All I can say is that I have never regretted buying that initial prop. I now have 3 units my second is on a 87" Gilmore Red Lion with DLE 55 - man does that prop sure pull 15.5lb model is off the ground at 6ft. The 3rd prop 4 blade is for a 88" TempestII which I am scratch building now 80% done has a Moki 360 twin fitted and run in. Did see someone ask how they compare with a CF prop - pretty hard to compare an apple with an orange (they both are great).
Posted on: 8/14/2010 7:31 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9932550

RE: Who knows of where to get T33 detailed surface photos?
Hi Marc, Here is an excellent reference book which I used when I was manufacturing the T.33 as a ducted fan kit. Title: Shooting Stars Author: Michael O'Leary Publisher: Osprey This would really be good value. Hope this helps. rjmods
Posted on: 7/28/2009 10:52 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8972330

RE: Airworld GEE BEE
Hi Tom this was obviously a kit or at the least scratch built. I posted a request under Scale plans?? regarding this model. Are you able to devulge the source of the plans so I can make one of these - my budget does'nt run to the 3metre model. Also I have a motor which I think will be just right for one of these models - a Moki 360 in line twin.
Posted on: 7/28/2009 9:13 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8970313

GEE BEE R3
Does anyone have any details of plans for this beast as I would love to build this or even a slightly smaller scale. ATM I have a number of Moki 360 twins for which I am looking for projects for. Currently I am 80% of my way through a 88" Tempest II next after this will be a 100" MIG 3 and then ??? I will still have 3 -360's to use up so I need some help in finding this particular Gee Bee.
Posted on: 7/28/2009 8:41 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8970261

RE: Fairey Junior
Hi, How about a few more details like what is the covering you have used, what motor are you going to use. You will be really pleased with the flying of this model. I have a 20yr old 1/3rd scale which "was" powered by an Enya 120 but now is going through an engine transplant to an OS 120 FC series 2 motor.
Posted on: 7/28/2009 8:34 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8970249

RE: Problem with Ignition System
Hi There I was the original poster for this item and was wondering if you may be able to help on a related issue. Brought this brand new Moki a couple of years ago and now have a model in which to put it. The ignition system that came with it is simply labelled S&P 0477. Do you know of this ignition system and are you able to supply any information regarding it. I did test run my Moki at the weekend with no problems. Certainly the gas is more fuel effecient than the glow but then Im not complaining - I love all 14 of my Moki's. rjm
Posted on: 11/23/2008 6:36 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8174514

RE: moki gasoline
Hi Re: the question you asked about the carb on my Moki 180 Gas. The number stamped on it is WT4810. Hope this helps. RJM
Posted on: 11/21/2008 5:59 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8170129

Problem with Ignition System
Recently got out my brand new Moki 180 Gas Ignition to put in a 85" Gee Bee Y. I set it up on a test stand with the spark plug removed so I could see the spark occurring. Didnt matter what I tried I could not get a spark out of it, so moved on to a lateral approach. I found an old bar magnet that I had and manually passed that over the sensor (which I had removed from its mounting on the motor) - guess what - a nice fat spark, so thinking that it may be gap related I passed the sensor over the magnet mounted in the prop driver - NO SPARK. Next move was to obtain some small rare earth magnets and try these - I manually passed one across the sensor and was rewarded with a big fat spark, all this did was to frustrate me even more as the system appears to work but when all mounted on the motor - Nothing. Anyway to make it easier to hold the small rare earth magnet I got a small pieace of timber and drilled a hole to mount the magnet. Once done I then tried it across the sensor yet again and guess what NO SPARK now this was the same magnet that worked not 30 minutes before, SUDDEN THOUGHT I turned the magnet end for end mounted it back in the timber and once again passed it over the sensor - NICE BIG FAT SPARK. It would appear that although a magnet may be magnetised and able to attract onther metalic items its "force field" does have direction. So now I have mounted a second magnet in the prop driver which gives me a nice fat spark I will be able to test run this motor at the weekend. Hope this helps someone out there. RJM
Posted on: 11/21/2008 5:56 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8170121

Moki 180 Gas with Ignition
Brought this brand new Moki a couple of years ago and now have a model in which to put it. The ignition system that came with it is simply labelled S&P 0477. Does anyone know this system and have any information about it as I have no documentation on it at all. Any help would be great. RJM
Posted on: 11/20/2008 2:21 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8165168

Moki 360 on Ignition
for ignition on glow. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. rjmods
Posted on: 12/23/2007 1:11 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6793493

RE: My wing is 5/8 off on a ARF help
Hi, Sounds Like you have a serious problem there. The first thing I would suggest prior to doing anything with the model is to go out and spend a few dollars on an Incidence Meter. From what you have described you have way to much positive incidence on the wing. rjmods
Posted on: 9/24/2007 7:36 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6406779

Gee Bee 3
Hi does anyone out there have plans or have software to produce plans for this plane. I would like to make one around 80 inches or so. There is a kit available but with a 10ft wingspan and a $3000.00 tag for the kit plus another $2500.00 for the motor I would like to build a smaller version myself. Thanks Guys
Posted on: 9/24/2007 5:50 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6406662

RE: Vaccum bagging pump.
't regret it. rjmods
Posted on: 9/24/2007 5:42 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6406648

RE: Moki 360 Twin
Thanks, heading off to bed now, have to work in the morning will check then rjmods
Posted on: 9/21/2007 8:50 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6396019

RE: Fiberglass storage?
Hi, All polyester resins have an additive "cobolt" in it. This is preadded during the manufacturing stage but the greater the amount then the shorter its shelf life. The other side of the coin is those resins with more cobolt will also cure more rapidly
Posted on: 9/21/2007 8:45 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6396001

RE: Moki 360 Twin
Stickbuilder do you have a contact point for Mark's like web site, email or even phone. Thanks rjmods
Posted on: 9/21/2007 8:30 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6395966

Moki 360 Twin
on this would be much appreciated. Thanks rjmods
Posted on: 9/21/2007 7:25 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6395839

RE: ThunderTiger Rare Bear
Hi there Read your last two posts and looked at both of your video's. I also have a Rare Bear which is still being sorted. After seeing your first video with the motor being run in your driveway I could not help but think that you have/had the same problem as I found with my RB. You commented about the amount of flex in the tailplane - I took my RB into the hospital I work at and had the tailplane xrayed, I found what I believe will be your problem also. On my RB tailplane, the glass spars which were supposed to go through the root rib [b]and the next [/b] [b]rib[/b], in fact only passed through the root rib, so there is nothing to stop the tailplane flexing in the same manner as yours did. If you checked your CG and you say it was correct then I feel that your problem with the pitching in flight will be a function of your tailplane flexing thereby causing the model to suddenly pitch up. Check your tailplane throughly before you fly the model again even to the extent of opening up the bottom skin if this will be the only way you can look inside. I made a completely new tailplane for mine and have had no problems. Hope this helps - best of luck[8D] rjm
Posted on: 6/10/2006 8:58 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4374443

RE: OS 120 FS Series II - Non functioning Pump
Making a pumped motor a non pumped motor is not a consideration. My view is someone put this pump together so someone can take it apart and then reassemble it - making it work as well.
Posted on: 5/14/2006 4:59 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4275814

OS 120 FS Series II - Non functioning Pump
. Thanks rjmods
Posted on: 5/12/2006 8:56 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4269410

OS 120 series 2 pumped
. Thanks rjmods
Posted on: 5/5/2006 11:17 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4245390

RE: First jet model... glow ducted fan
Re First jet: Sorry forgot to say membership to Laverton is now CLOSED. rjmods
Posted on: 3/25/2005 7:17 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2803542

RE: First jet model... glow ducted fan
, I have been building and flying my own jets for about 15yrs now. rjmods
Posted on: 3/25/2005 7:15 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2803539

Scale BAe Hawk Retracts
Hi Guys Thanks for the info Mick & Jockjets
Posted on: 11/30/2002 10:23 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=391266

Scale BAe Hawk Retracts
Does anyone know where I could obtain a set of scale retracts for the BAe Hawk which I am building. The finished weight will be approx 15- 18lbs, the wing span is 62.5 inches and lenght 71.25 inches with the mains wheels diameter being 3.75inches (95mm) and the nose wheel diameter 2.0inches (50mm). Thanks John
Posted on: 11/30/2002 12:10 PM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=391263

Can't do vacuum bagging right - need advices
Hi, When I first tried the vacuum process I used an old pump from a refrigerator but found these kept burning out. I then brought a genuine vac pump and have not looked back. I vacuum all my wings and use 15 to 18 inches of mercury vacuum which is more than you suggest that you use. One thing I notice in your description and in the replies is that no-one seems to be using a breather cloth in their vac bags. You must use this as it will be impossible to extract all the air from your plastic bag without it. Make your bag approx 9 inches bigger all round than the product which you will be vacuuming, then cut some hessian cloth to match the size of the bag, now cut out the profile of your item from the hessian having place it centrally of course. You can use the peel ply product over the top of your item once it has been resined however I prefer a method which I have developed. This will require two more items, some thin plastic sheet and some cheap net curtaining material. Once your item has been resined on one side place a piece of plastic over it and trun over and do the other side, place the other piece of plastic on the second side. Now having cut the curtain material larger than your item place the curtain material over the plastic and place the lot in the vacuum bag and apply vacuum - of course you do have a vacuum regulator to control the amount of vacuum dont you. So what you now have in the bag layer by layer is 1) a layer of curtain material. 2) a layer of plastic sheet, 3) your resined item. 4) a layer of plastic sheet. 5) a layer of curtain material. The use of the hessian and the curtain material will result in tour being able to extract all the air from the bag down to the level of vacuum which you have set. Before the resin cures you can squeeygee air from the center of your item to the periphial edges where it will be forced to migrate to the vacuum pump. I know this is long winded but I hope some of it is helpful.
Posted on: 11/30/2002 11:54 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=359759

plug & mold help ?
Hi, Be prepared to put in a lot of time here like maybe 400hrs just for the plug. Then of course more hours for the moulds. Wax and polish the plug 3-4 times prior to using a PVA release anything less and you will run the risk of the plug sticking when you lay up the moulds.
Posted on: 11/30/2002 11:22 AM by Author "rjmods" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=382801