RE: Finishing for a TF GS P-51D
The pictures I have are helping some with that. Unfortunately, if you go by most of the 3-views out there it would have about 10,000 rivets all over the wing :) I'm using the pictures to see where they appear, then the 3-view to get more details on actual placement and spacing, etc. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/12/2012 8:16 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226823

RE: Finishing for a TF GS P-51D
Hi Chris, Any info you can provide on the sizes and spacing would be great and very much appreciated. The drawings I have make it very difficult to judge what the spacing should be and in some places it looks like the rivet spacing is actually adjusted to have the same number but for a longer run. For example, in a couple of places where there are rows of rivets in a trapezoid type configuration, the same number of rivets appear to be used on the shorter side as on the longer side with the spacing adjusted. My source for this is a scale 1/24 plastic model so take that for what it's worth. I do see some of this in the 3-views I have as well. It looks like most of the rivets are either spaced at around .25 inches (at 1/5 scale) or around .3 to .4 inches for others. I'm going to play around a little with some paints I have just to see how they come out. I've thought about ordering the Aluminum that Klass-Kote has, but I've never seen it and I'm not sure how realistic it looks. Thanks for the decal tip. I will be using water slides for some of my decals. I took a look at the Alclad paint and it does look reeeeaaallly sweet. However, the price (especially for how little you get) kinda soured it a bit. :) I have some pictures I got from Bob's docs and they do show the wing as being smooth and no rivets (with a few exceptions like around the guns, etc.). I'm going with the "Big Beautiful Doll" scheme for this particular build. I think my next one will be something more unique but my thinking was that I couldn't go wrong with this one given all the info out there. I'm going to be trying out vinyl cut rivets / screws / panels on this build. After seeing some of the results by those that have used Mirce's versions of these, they really look good considered how much easier they are to apply. Again, thanks for the tips, Russ
Posted on: 9/12/2012 5:12 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226640

Finishing for a TF GS P-51D
Hey folks, I'm at the point where I'm starting to work on the finishing for my tf p-51d and I have a few questions. I've been able to pull some of the info I need from some of the previous threads, especially the TF P-51 build threads, but not everything. 1.) How can I find out the correct sizes and spacing for rivets and screws? From what I've read, rivets for the 1/5 scale should be roughly 2mm in diameter. What I'm not sure about is the size for the assorted screw heads and the correct spacing. I have quite a few 3-views that show rivets, etc. but they are so pixelated that when I zoom in to try and get spacing, etc. the detail isn't very good. 2.) What aluminum paint are people using? I've seen a build thread here where someone actually used model master acrylic chrome metalic and polished it with steel wool and it looks amazing. However, I want to use Klass-Kote clear coating and I'm not sure it would hold up under that. I've looked at some of the rustoleum metalic paints and some look kinda close. I'm not concerned whether the paint is solvent based or not. I do want to stick with paint and not flite-metal. 3.) I've seen people go both directions as far as showing rivets on the main wing sections. Since the original factory made P-51's filled the dimples made by flush rivets and primed then painted over those, some choose not to put rivets there. However, I must admit that even though it may not be accurate, the P-51's that have simulated flush rivets look really cool. Is this a cardinal sin for this plane? Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/12/2012 12:39 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225792

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Hi Chad, Thanks for the tip. I just ordered some Oracal 641 so I'm going to try this out and see how it goes. I'll also use it for fake panels, etc. so it'll be an interesting experiment. I'll try to post some info if it goes well, or maybe even if it doesn't :) Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/8/2012 10:23 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222434

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Yeah, I had looked at the soldering iron technique as well and that would take forever. I know it probably gives a more realistic look, but I'm all for speeding things up. Chad, you are right... I just looked at some pictures of the P-51 I'm modeling and indeed I see the weathering around the edges of screws and rivets, not in the middle. I'm sold. I just need to get the right vinyl now and start up ye'old cutter. Btw, I did find another place to buy this online in the states. It is www.signwarehouse.com and they carry the economy stuff. The other place I mentioned above only carries the higher end stuff and it's a bit pricey. Also, I have used micro-balloons (actually I used the powder from west systems but same type of thing) with bondo and it works ok. It does get a bit thick and is a little difficult to spread, but if you are using it to glob into something it isn't a problem. I thought about trying again and using some thinner to see if that helped. Thanks for all the help folks.. Russ
Posted on: 9/8/2012 3:50 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222086

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Gary is correct. This is not what Mirce sells. I don't want to make anyone think there is anything wrong with his product as I've only read great things about what he sends out. I was just experimenting with some Silhouette vinyl that we already had. At the time I didn't even really think about any sort of interaction problem but I knew that, either way, the adhesive wasn't nearly strong enough. USCutter (www.uscutter.com) carries the Oracal line. They sell it in 15" wide (with track holes) by 10', 50', etc. I may give them a try. One thing though, something I saw in another thread was where someone took a solid rod and soldering iron and did flush rivets that way. In fact, I think it was a Panther that Mirce was building. He also mixed some vinyl in their as well, but one of the things I noticed is that, when he weathered it, he achieved a really cool look because the black weathering would settle in those rivet "dimples". If I were to do the same thing with vinyl rivets, the weathing would gather around the edges of the rivets and make it look more like non flush rivets right? Of course, the plane I'm working on is a P-51 and those rivets aren't really very prominent anyway in order to achieve the proper laminar flow. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/8/2012 10:07 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221805

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Hi Gary, After looking at it again this morning.. it looks like the issue is with the adhesive. The places where it got messy were around the edges of each dot. I did discover something else though, I am using plane craft type vinyl (just what my wife had laying around). Note that I'm cutting these myself so I think I'm using the wrong stuff. It looks like this stuff isn't durable enough for this type of use. I will most likely need to look for some Oracal permanent adhesive vinyl and try that. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/8/2012 5:47 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221607

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build
Hi Gary, Are you using solvent based paints over your vinyl? I've tried this on a couple of things and haven't had good results. Specifically, I tried using some rustoleum metalic silver over some areas I've applied vinyl to and the vinyl didn't fair too well. It created spots where it looks like the vinyl either bubbled up or melted. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/7/2012 7:17 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221320

RE: Sig Koverall Application Process
Hi Bob, The Koverall is shrunk using heat from a heat-gun or iron. I generally seal / glue it around the edges then shrink it with a heat-gun, then dope the entire thing with a 50% dope 50% thinner mix. When you do that with something like a wing, the dope will bleed through and adhere to the ribs. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 9/3/2012 4:54 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216163

RE: Sheeting done with Titebond & Heat
Hi Mike, I've never thought of sheeting airplanes using this method, but I have used it for wood laminates. If you spread the wood glue over the sheet and let it dry, you can then heat it to cause it to adhere to the backing. I've used irons for example to iron on laminates like this. I would think, though, that you would want to put the glue on the ribs, etc. instead of covering the entire back of the sheet. It seems like spreading the glue on the entire back of the sheeting would add a bit of weight. If you try it, let us know how it turns out... sounds interesting. Good luck, Russ
Posted on: 8/28/2012 11:09 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209930

RE: Has anyone used the SD-10G with RealFlight 6?
Hi Farrell, I'm using an Airtronics AIR97026 adapter chord. The funny thing is that it "sort of" works, but it is strange that it is mixing up the signals for channel 1 and 2 and is jittery for the others. One thing I have noticed is that, under RealFlight, the adapter shows up as an 8 channel transmitter. I would think it would just make the first 8 channels available, but I'm more or less at a loss. I'll post something in the Knife Edge site and see if anyone has any ideas there. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/28/2012 4:54 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Airtronics Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209612

RE: New SD-10G - Was it updated?
Thanks Farrell, it does indeed have those letters in it so I'll go through the procedures for getting a return authorization to have it updated. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/28/2012 4:49 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Airtronics Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209604

RE: Decals for 1/5 scale P-51 Big Beautiful Doll
Thanks Jerry, I just sent you an e-mail requesting pricing details, etc. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/27/2012 8:07 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207573

RE: Decals for 1/5 scale P-51 Big Beautiful Doll
Thanks Dan, looks like they have some stuff I can use. I think I would want to use rub-ons for the smaller stenciling, maybe from GetStencils. I've even looked at some ways of creating my own, but of course there is always the issue of not being able to print white. Simco, :) Yes you are right that this particular scheme is all over. Strangely, however, there are only one or two people that fly at my field that have a p-51 in this scheme and actually one of those planes "passed away" earlier in the summer. When I started this plane (a year or so ago) I bought quite a bit of docs for it so I might as well use them. Also, since the p-51 is my favorite plane, I have at-least a couple more of them lined up to be built, so those I plan on doing something different with. This is my first attempt at going as scale as possible so I figured I wouldn't have many problems finding as much detail as I wanted for this particular p-51. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/26/2012 11:34 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207231

Decals for 1/5 scale P-51 Big Beautiful Doll
I'm building the TF GS p-51, but it came with decals for a theme I'm not building. Specifically, I'm trying to find a set of decals for the Big Beautiful Doll. I suspect TF has them, but actually since I'm going with all paint (possible issue with solvent paint and those vinyl stickers), etc. I was wondering if there were better quality decals out there.. maybe with the smaller stencils being rub-on for example? Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/26/2012 5:30 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206929

Has anyone used the SD-10G with RealFlight 6?
I have the cables and it is "partially" working, but I'm getting really strange behavior such as the 1st and 2nd channel getting input from one channel from the radio. In other words, I use elevator up and it controls the ailerons too.. also, every channel "glitches" every now and then. I've verified that the channels are set up correctly in the SD-10G. I'm using the RealFlight mode that is suppose to let you use one radio setup for all planes. I haven't tried using the "raw" mode yet, but that's next on my list. I was hoping someone had been through this and new the "trick" to getting it going. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/25/2012 9:51 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Airtronics Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206136

RE: New SD-10G - Was it updated?
It's been a while since this post was made so perhaps the NEW stamp is no longer placed on the RF modules, but I just purchased an SD-10G that was "supposedly" new from EBay and I do not see anything like that on mine. I opened it up to check so my question is, is there any other way to tell? My serial number does fall within the range on the tech note but I really don't know when the item was originally purchased. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/25/2012 9:48 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Airtronics Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206134

RE: Painting with rustoleum
I've used KlassKote and love it but you are right, they are a bit pricey. I compromised and just buy their clear coat. I can put it over pretty much anything, in fact I even use this over Latex paint (though you have to put a very thin mist on virst or it will bubble up). Regardless of what you use for color, if you put a few coats of this stuff over it, you could pretty much dip it in a vat of boiling toxic waist and it wouldn't touch it. :) Later, Russ
Posted on: 8/19/2012 4:45 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199018

RE: Canopy for TF GS P-51 Kit
Very sad news indeed. They have some really nice products. I hope the new owner continues that tradition. Good luck, Russ
Posted on: 8/16/2012 8:40 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196427

RE: Canopy for TF GS P-51 Kit
Thanks for all the suggestions. While I was looking around, I found someone detailing how they had fixed scratches in a canopy. That's what I did, I was working on something near the front part of the canopy and scratched it up. The technique was to pour on a coat of mop & glow and let that dry, then buff it out. I tried it tonight and I'm amazed... it's like magic. It isn't perfect, but it'll do. I was really tempted to buy the sliding canopy kit from Aerotech but I'm going to try to do my own first. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/16/2012 6:34 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196312

Canopy for TF GS P-51 Kit
I need to get another canopy for the TF GS P-51 (long story, goofed it up during build). I checked with Top-Flite support and they do sell them but they want $33 + $10 shipping for it. I'm looking to reduce the cost of my mistake :) Does anyone know if the ARF canopy will fit on the kit? I can pick those up for $10 or less in some places. Or, is there a canopy for another 1/5 size p-51 out there that is of better quality. I'm willing to pay a "little" more for a good quality canopy. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/16/2012 8:31 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195726

RE: NGH 17cc gasoline engine
Thanks Michael, I do like what I've seen so far for this engine so I think I'm going to give it a try. I can always upgrade if needed but I'm sure I'll have to cut the cowl up more in that case. Later, Russ
Posted on: 8/13/2012 10:16 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191684

RE: NGH 17cc gasoline engine
I've been looking at this engine for a while and I am hearing good things about it. I like the way it is such a good fit for a .60 or .90 size engine from a fit/form point of view. My question is, do you think this engine would perform on a 1/7 scale top flite p-51d? I'm guessing a final weight of somewhere in the 9 pound range. Obviously a 20cc engine would give me more power for this plane, but I'm more interested in scale flight characteristics than anything else. I'm thinking I could pretty much get this entire engine inside the cowl (with a different exhaust). Any thoughts? Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 8/12/2012 9:12 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191131

RE: Top Flite Redbox P-51
Hi Bob, I don't have that kit, but I can't imagine it not being for the spar after cut to length. I know that sometimes, for cost savings, etc. different length wood is shipped with the kits. Or if nothing else, they aren't always cut to any sort of exact length tolerances. Let us know how it goes, it's been a while since I've seen that kit built.. sounds like a good build thread. :) Russ
Posted on: 8/7/2012 6:34 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184921

RE: Modeling Boeing's 747-8 in 3D
WOW! Very nice Mike, you may have mentioned it before, but what software are you using for this? Later, Russ
Posted on: 7/19/2012 5:19 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161744

RE: What do I paint my glassed warbird with
Jester, Yes, KlassKote will do as you state. One piece of advice though. When you go to spray it, apply a very light coating first and let it set for a bit then come back and finish it. If you apply it too heavily right off the bat, it can sometimes cause the latex to bubble up. Granted this is probably less likely to happen the longer you give the latex to cure. I've painted with latex and applied the clear cote within 4 or so days without issue. I just wish KlassKote's paints were less expensive so I could use it for the whole process since it is easier to weather than latex. Russ
Posted on: 7/16/2012 10:01 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158225

RE: Why buy a kit just to have it?
Sometimes, collectors are like gamblers, they just can't resist buying another "thing". It isn't specific to kits. I'm not sure there are a lot of people that buy without having any intention of building. We all want to build every kit we buy for the most part, it just isn't possible to do so as it does take a bit of time. I think one of the big drivers behind this is the fact that kits are going away. Just like anything else that becomes harder and harder to obtain, people start buying them up so that they will have them when they completely go away. I hope that never happens, but unfortunately this "hobby" is quickly becoming more like an "activity". :) Look at it this way, if people hear tomorrow that a law is going to be passed making it illegal to buy guns, people will be buying them faster than they can be made. Even if they don't need them. Later, Russ
Posted on: 7/4/2012 1:10 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11142933

RE: E-Flite retracts
Not sure if this has been mentioned here or not, but someone has built these and his web page talks about some of the issues and how he solved them. I am in the process of building my own now for a 1/5 spitfire and so far I like the progress. I chose to use an Arduino controller and Pololu has a shield board with the same motor controllers on it. I'm using the same 1:50 motors listed on the page and so far they easily lift the gear. Here is the site: http://www.laureanno.com/RC/E-Retracts.htm Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 7/1/2012 11:24 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11138710

RE: 4*120 Build Thread
I'm in the paint phase of my project right now. I did make a cowl to cover the engine and moved it up above the thrust line about 1/2 inch or so. Of course, I also made the front portion of the fuselage higher than what the kit called for so it actually looks good given that. I guess the true test will be the maiden flight. :) Hopefully it won't also be the last flight. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 6/26/2012 10:08 AM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132489

RE: Best water based primer solution.
Hi Rick, Thanks for the info. For the planes I fiberglass, the sealing issue isn't such a big one. I use West Systems resin for that and for me it works much too well to go any other way. However, for planes I cover with canvas type materials (eg: Koverall), I'm experimenting with using something like Hodgepodge glue. It works pretty well so far, but you raise an interesting concern. Given that it is water based, I'm not sure it will do such a great job of sealing the wood. So far I've used Sig Nitrate Dope on those but that stuff is really nasty from an "air" perspective. I may just have to stick with the auto primer, but one of my biggest gripes about it is having to go with the spray can based products. I'd really like to find something similar that I can brush on for the sanding coats then maybe spray for the base-coat. I've found grey primer like this, but in this case my plane is mostly white, so I really need white primer. I've been using KlassKote clear for the clear-coat and I have to say that even over latex paint, it works really well. Just seems like we aren't at a place where we can get away from solvent based solutions for all of this. Thanks, Russ
Posted on: 6/22/2012 9:53 PM by Author "rlemaster" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128470