RE: Micro Helicopters
If you want forward and backwards control the AIR HOGS HELIX/REFLEX is the way to go but it is much heavier than a skylark or dragonfly or a spinblade and does not fly as long. But I like it very much as well. It is way better than the ringed type of dragonflys or skylarks. But it costs 2 to 3 times what this one above does. The REFLEX would be way better if it had have it's weight ut all those motors and bigger battery are what makes it work and are also it's downfall.
Posted on: 2/23/2007 10:25 PM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5465620

RE: Micro Helicopters
I have about 14 larger electric helis mostly rotoblades and humingbirds of differing vintages and 2 Bumble Bees. All fly. But I do like the new micros I have been playing with. I have two Pico Z one flys way better than the other, very smooth. They are kind of cool as when you land they land on their skids most of the time and if not you can flip them upright with a quick burst on the throttle. Probably not good for it but they seem pretty durable. They are unstable at different throttle speeds sometimes. I also have a highly moded Spin Blade from Radio Shack. It was probably my best micro. I also have 2 dragonfly or dragon King type of helis with the rings on the blades. I do not like them much. Too slow and very unstable most of the time and only 10 minute flights. The spin blade does about 20 minutes. The Picco Z about 12 or so. Just today got a "micro mini dragonfly" off ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=260087342994&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=016 It is actually from the "MAW helicopter series" It is a MAW010S2-2-19 and looks like a rip-off of the spin blade. It has the same sort of gearing and everything but the holders for the blades are better, they allow them to swivel so they do not pop off on a bad landing. The landing gear is the same as the spin blad but is turned 180 degrees. Basically it kind of looks like what we all did to modify the spin blade. There is no cage on it around the blades. Well mine came in and the tail boom was broken off so I had to glue it with thick CA. Something was loose in the radio that connected to the stick swivel on the left stick which was supposed to be glued in place since it does not support left right on the left. So I glued it. It just has throttle on left and left right on right stick. Balance makes it go forwoards and no reverse. But it does very well. I did not have to dork with changing the left and right control as I had to on the bigger dragonflys with the rings. This latest one flys probably the best of all of them right out of the box. Very controlable. Might have gotten lucky. I get about 20 minutes on it without doing a charge right out of the box. Propably had a full charge. Nice little micro. Was only about 30$ And it is only 8 inch tip to tip on the main rotor and fuse canope to end of tail boom is also 8 inches. Nice and small and stable. Good design. Would be better if it had a controlable forward and reverse but it is lots of ufn the way it is. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260087342994&rd=1&rd=1#ebayphotohosting Well woth the money. What I like about the little micros is you can fly in the living room anytime. Do not have to go outdoors, propbably does not work well outside as even small air currents inside are fun to deal with. But they let me play with a heli of sorts and it is still fun.
Posted on: 2/23/2007 8:12 PM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5464978

E-tech 1200 battery mounting for Hummingbird
What have you guys been doing in order to mount the E-tech 1200 2 cell Li-Poly batteries to a Hummingbird? I need to mount it up front in order to get the weight right but then I am not abel to be the canopy on. How do you mount it? Where? And with what? Currently I am just using rubber bands around tha battery and sticking it between the rails but it is int eh way of the canopy.
Posted on: 4/27/2003 10:49 PM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=727000

possible help?
I have the GWS PG-03 gyro found on: [url]http://www.helihobby.com/html/hummingbird__products.html[/url] for 49.50 But yours should work. I have this set up as they ssaid to do it. THere is a green/red light. It is green when you move the tail one way and red in the other direction. At stable idle it should be a bit of both colors. The problem I have is that it works fine at hover but when you back off to land it spins about 1/4 turn to the right I think. so I have to counter it. This might be because the tail motor hit the ground hard once and the axle is a bit bent. As a result it does not mesh well with the tail gear/rotor. I have it a bit on the loose side so that it runs up smooth but it probably does not turn easily enough at low RPM and thus turns. However I believe the direction it turns is to the right which means it is turning to easily and over riding the main rotor torque?? Maybe I need it tighter. What does yours do if you bypass the gyro (if possible) and must have the mixing ? You might want to check out [url]http://www.helihobby.com/html/separate_electronics.html[/url] and see how this relates to what you are using and check out their suggestions on tuning it.
Posted on: 4/27/2003 3:02 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=721806

Thanks and one more question
Thanks that helps to know that the doc is a bit messed up. I will let it cycle and ignore the warning for RX and TX battery cutoff voltages. My other question is still about the Triton charger. It is about the Peak Sensitivity setting. They say for NICD to set it 8-10 mV per cell and NiMH to 3-5 mV per cell on the addendum sheet they give. But in the manual it says NICD 5-20mV and NiMH 3-15mV per cell. Question #1 Which is it 8-10 or 5-20 NiCD? Question #2 Which is it 3-15 or 5-20 NiMH? Question #3 (And most important) These say "per cell", so does that mean if I am charging a 7 cell 600 mAh NiMH battery do I set it for 10mV on the Triton chargerr or for 7*10mV since it is 7 cells. So do I set it to 10mV or to 70mV? In the second case the legal range would be 7*(3 to 15) or 21-1005mV for a 7 cell pack? 7*(5 to 20) or 35 to 140 mV for a 7 cell pack? Right now I have it at 8mV total as the entry for the 7 cell battery on the Titron menus and it seems to cut out charging early. The battery gets a little warm but only about 84 degrees. I have the temp probe set to 125 degrees. Comment - the temp probe is a poor design. Of my 8 different batteries it does not fit any of them as they are all too tightly bound and there is not enough space between the cells to fit the probe. I had to remove the keeper/preasure leg and I just put the temp sensor agains the outside of one of the batteries and use a rubberband to secure it. It might read a bit cool but it is better than nothing. Thanks for your help.
Posted on: 4/25/2003 2:40 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=709371

triton charger question / problem
I just got it and wanted to use it to automatically discharge and charge my 8 cell 500 Mah TX battery 3 times. I set it up in the Memory[01] and started the discharge to charge cycle and read the book and it says on page 12 near the pbottom of the page that the cutoff voltage is fixed in this mode to 0.8V and is not adjustable (bummer). On page 11, 3rd paragraph says that "Note: When discharging TX and Rx radio batteries, the discharge cutoff voltage should be set 1.1 volts per cell. .... Do NOT attempt to discharge cells to voltage lower than recommended." So this means I can not use this discharge to charge cycle technique safely and have it cut off at the recommended 8.8 volts as it is fixed at .8V so it would take it to 6.4 volts which is too low (not recommended). I even tried faking it and saying that I had 11 cells thinking it would take it down to just 8.8 volts in this mode and adjusting the discharge rate from the recommended 1.1 to .8 to get it to 8.8 but for some reason that did not work either. THe cutoff voltage does work for a simple dischage just not for the cycle function. Is there any way around this or should I just ignore the TX/RX voltage warning and let it cycle down to 6.4 volts (.8v) per cell? Why the heck they made a computer controlled charger that can do everything but can not cycle to a selected voltage is beyond me...... WHat am I missing (other than a brain)?
Posted on: 4/20/2003 5:05 PM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=709369

Solder tip
Thanks for the soldering tip. I will have to try that next time. It looks much easier than the way I did it! I flew my heli 3 times today but on the last flight I the tail rotor got ahead of my brain and I lost it. It came down from 5 feet and tailed into the driveway (the only semi flat space I have as I live on a slope. The driveway is only about a 15 degree slope) Well I lost the tail rotor and have a replacement but I do not have a replacement for the pin it rides on. CNe020. I guess I need to stock up on those. Does anyone have a better solution / replacement for that part? Thanks again, Still nice to be flying/crashig versus trying to figure out that loss of signal I was having!!
Posted on: 4/16/2003 2:29 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=696410

E-tech 1200's on stock Hummingbird??
Can you use the E-tech 1200's on the stock Hummingbird motors and mixer and not fry anything? If not what is the correct sized Li-Poly and brand that would match a stock setup? When you buy Li-Polys from Helihobby They list: "Lithium Cells 4.2V 1020mAh, All Micro Helis This Lithium Polymer pack will truly make your Micro Heli go ballistic. A 4.2V Lithium cell will deliver much more power while reducing the overall weight. The Lithium cells are available in one, two or three cell configuration" and else where: ... "The two cell Kokam 1020 pack is similar in power to a 7 cell 300 mah nimh pack" Do you just buy the 2 cell configuration for a stock Hummingbird? The stock Hummingbird battery is just 6 cell 8.4 volt 600mah. The 2 cell li-poly would be 8.4 volt, sounds like a match? How do you know whether to use: E-tech 2s 1200mah Lipoly packs, Kokam 900mah High Output packs, or Kokam 1020 mah packs? Which is best for stock motors? I already have a Triton charger to charge with, but I want to make sure I get the correct batteries. Thanks.
Posted on: 4/16/2003 2:21 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=698322

inside picture
Another picture
Posted on: 4/15/2003 5:26 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=696407

Picture of my Mini-Dragonfly to Hummingbird conversion
I like the looks of the Hummingbird tail boom struts and horizontal fin so I bought the crash kit that comes with new rotor set and a battery box that includes the battery slide kit with the necesary strut holder in the rear. I also bought the horizontal and vertical fin kit with struts. But to complete it you have to but the boom kit which has the needed peice that mounts on the boom to hold the other end of the struts. That is about $47.00 in parts. But I do have the extra rotor blade and tail rotor. But I probably should have just bought another Hummingbird for $79.00! Live and Learn.....
Posted on: 4/15/2003 5:25 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=696406

Bigger picture of bad spot
Here is a bigger picture of the bad solder spot on the receiver chip.
Posted on: 4/15/2003 4:19 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=696405

Hummingbird/FEDA Mini-Dragonfly finally fixed!!!!
A little review of the problems: It started out that it shook violently. It had a bad rotor head and bearings. Once that was fixed I had some loose connections that I thought were causing loss of radio signal but I guess they were not as I kept having a loss of signal. I respliced many wires and had to re-solder several other as I tried to figure out what was bad and they would break. They are very small wires going into the reciever and the plugs are small too. But none of this fixed the problem. Then it seemed like the crysal was loose in the receiver because when I pushed on it or moved it the loss would happen and recover. But that too was not it. What was it????? There is a little chip less than a quarter inch square on the receiver board with sixteen legs on it right under the crystal. In the pictures I had bent the crystal up to look under it. The chip has 8 legs on one side and 8 on the other. Well it turns out that the top lefthand leg in the attached pictures was touching the solder pad undernieth it but it was not soldered! Flexing the reciever would make it lose signal. When this happens and it reconnects it takes about 2 seconds for it to re-sync for some reason. SO you can imagine what vibrations were doing to this touch connection! I could not even see if there was a solder sonnection with my bare eyes or with a magnifying glass. I could almost see it with a digital camera in macro mode and then blown up on the computer (see pictures). But with a microscope lens I was able to see it was not soldered and I could move it slightly with a very small jewelers screwdriver. You should have seen me trying to solder it with my radio shack iron in one hand and my microscope eyepiece lens in my eye pressed against the receiver board held in the other hand and trying not to touch anything on the board (or me) but the one leg that needed soldering! I hoped that there would be enough solder on it to make a connection if I heated it up. It took 3 trys but it finally took. I put it partially back together and tested it and now the tail rotor would not work.... It ends up that the black wire from the speed controller to the tail rotor broke off from flexing the speed controler around. More soldering and now it all worked. I reassemble it all and it still all worked. Then I took it to the deck and tried it and it seemed to work OK. I need to trim it out and get use to it but at least it does not take off on its own now! It listens to the radio. No one to blame now but the pilot!! I think I will still replace the servoes and reciever with some stuff that is on its way to me via mail-order. But for now it is finally working!! Yahoo!! I actually got to run one full battery out with nothing bad happening!! That is a first for this bird since it came in a week ago. Thanks for everyones help.
Posted on: 4/15/2003 4:16 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=696404

What is an Azar style?
Knightwind, What is an Azar style? And what part ar you refering to? Is this a different style of antena like the Micro Z-72 Antenna? I fave my antena exit the hole in the back and goes down to the right hand side of the heli and wraps front to back on the landing gear struts. Then I tape it on one of the struts. It is not on or touching the boom. It will aslo have these problems with everything ( the electronics and radio) just hanging out the side loose.
Posted on: 4/14/2003 8:20 PM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672684

Ebay
I paid $280 on Ebay for a FEDA mini-dragonfly. The last one he had in the US, out of Chicago. I have had it over a week and have worked on it every day but have yet to get it to fly for more than 1 minute before it loses radio signal and I have to grab it or rescue my deck table from being hit by the rotor blades. The dealer said he would get me the part (rotor head, at the time) but he could not understand the part number or what the part was, even though I gave him both the FEDA part and the Humming bird part number. Finally another local dealer replaced it for me. It seemed like the servos, then the Gyro then the RX plug connections and last the crystal was very lose but even all the checking it still has some intermitant loss of signal which is permanent when it happens. At least until you unplug the battery or mess with the electronics in the black box. I have now purchased a new rotor head (the original was bent from the manufacturer and had a bad bearing), new servos, new RX, new Crystal, new radio. If that does not fix it I will have to get new ESC's / mixer and gyro. I have respliced the gyro, and a RX plug and one other wire as they had bad connections. I should have bought the $79 version and bought separates. These FEDA parts are too glitchy and fragle wire and plugs. At least something is glichy and I have not been able to pin it down. Each time it seems to be focused on a wire or a plug or a lose crystal and I fix it and then test it and it fails again. I think one of the circuit boards is bad or something. Just keep throwing good money after bad trying to get it to fly at least once.
Posted on: 4/13/2003 6:49 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=688921

I still have not fixed the problem.
I just tried flying again and it lost signal once again!!!! This is starting to tick me off..... Fixing the crystal did not fisx the problem. Anyone else got an idea? I just loose signal after running a minute or less. If I unplug it and plug it back in it will reset and be OK again sometimes or if you shakes stuff. Something is shorting somewhere or breaking connection. I have a new RX coming and will test with new servos as well. If that does not do it I will have to go to a new speed controller/mixer and gryo. I should have never bought it ART from EBAY. Too many problems and have not flown yet!!!! Having to replace the stuff I paid $280 for. I would have bought from NWhobbies but everytime in the last 4 weeks that I have looked there they and helihoby and hobieworld are sold out/ backordered. SO I did the Ebay thing. FIrst time in about 40 purchases that EBAY DID NOT WORK OUT FOR ME. Any ideas on what to check?
Posted on: 4/12/2003 2:57 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672681

Frequencies
I thought that the frequencies for USA were different that in the UK? Make sue you get a radio you can use aqnd a charge that works on USA voltage.
Posted on: 4/12/2003 1:00 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=688915

New theory
I worked on the heli tonight. It is not the servos causing the problem but I am fairly sure they will cause problems at some point as others have advised. It was not the gyro but in the process of checking it all out I managed to have to cut one wire from the gyro to the RX for testing since it seemed to be causing the glitch near a splice. But that was not it. I also managed to break a wire going into the RX plug from the gyro. That took about 2 hours to fix. It is so small these plugs and wires and I am getting more blind as I work on this thing, having to use a magnifying glass and all. The gyro has reasonable size wires comming from it but FEDA cut the connector off and spliced in smaller wires and a smaller block plug for the tiny RX. As a result with too much bending these little fine wires break. The curent theory.... I discovered that the crystal in the RX is a loose fit! It is pushed in and then bent over and as a result has very little in the push holes. The leads are not snug on one side and if I move it and nothing else it looses signal and goes from idle to half throttle and the pitch servo goes back. If I wiggle it some more it is restored. Solution. I took the crystal and quickly ran the ends through some solder to make it thicker. Stuck it back in , bent it over and heated up the holder holes to try to get it to set. This stuff is so small I was not sure if I may have shorted something with all my solder attempts. But when I tested it on the dining room table it all still worked. I will try a flight test tomorrow and see if I get past 1 to 2 minutes. I have already ordered a different brand RX (GWS) which looks like it uses more standard plugs. I want to get rid of the tiny wires. They are nothing but trouble. To do this I will also use my new hitec servoes with the bigger / normal plug ends and I will splice some new ends on the gyro and the speed controller. Of course then it will probably not all fit in the little black box so I will have to have the RX or the speed controller out side of the black box with the gyro. Does anyone have a perference on which one should be out and why?
Posted on: 4/11/2003 8:19 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672679

Easy way to fix Hummingbird
Where exactly are you saying to cut it? I could not tell from the pictures. Attached is the SWASHPLATE ASSEMBLY. I assume you are talking about the top crown part. So are you saying to make the hole bigger in the center or cut 1/16th off the bottom of it where it presses agains the bearing? Or are you saying something totally different? Thanks
Posted on: 4/10/2003 4:53 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=677044

That was not it!
I tried a test flight again today and after about 2 minutes I lost radio signal again and it went off on its own, hit the table on the deck and repeatedly hit the legs with the main rotor at just under hover speed. I had to grab it and unplug the battery to stop it. The gryo and speed control were still green. BUt no responce to any radio input. The pitch sevro was maxed to the back position. No damage to Dragonfly/hummingbird. This thing is strong. Had I done that with my nitro Heli I would have had rotor blade peices flying everywhere. It lost control just like the last time 2 times. I guess it is time to check out the servos as recommended and see if they are shorting. Will keep you posted.
Posted on: 4/10/2003 4:18 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672678

I think I figured it out.
I took it apart and got all the wires so they would move freely. Then I played with them all looking for negative reactions. The lead that goes from the receiver to the gryo kept causing it to lose radio signal and jam or glitch. It ends up that the socket for the gyro on the RX that has the 3 pins and mounts to the RX board was loose. The top pin (black) was sticking out higher that the others and therfor not making connection some of the time. I looked on back and could see the solder was not good and was not holding it. I pushed the pin back in, fired up the soldering iron, got a big magnifying glass and carefully re-sodered the back to hold the pin. Now the socket is tight and it gets good signal. I think it is fixed. I need to do some more testing with it. While I was fixing stuff I turned the FEDA speed controller around in the box and drilled a hole in the outside cover of the black box so I could see the status light. I also bought some Hitec servos and will most likely install them soon. Hopefully the FEDA ones will last a couple flights to test it out. Thanks for everyones help. On to the next problem.....
Posted on: 4/9/2003 5:07 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672677

servos
Thanks for the reply Thrusline. I will try messing with the servos tommorow and see if that helps.
Posted on: 4/8/2003 5:50 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672675

more info
The radio does not seem to work. When I connect the battery the servos go to idle position, non responsive to TX and then in 3 seconds the pitch one goes full back and stays there. It does this every tme. What does that mean? Playing some more .... Hmmmmm, now disconnecting the gyro does not help. Playing some more .... Now it is working, now it is not. Something loose somewhere. I think something on the mixer is loose. I pushed on the bottom left and everything started working again. If I have it all loose and tap the mixer or receiver it seems OK. Playing some more .... Now I just tapped the mixer and everything glitched and the rotors started spinning fast when it is stick down. This thing is dangerous! Every connection is sodered to the mixer so I can not disconnect the main rotor. I am still not sure if it is the FEDA mixer ( it is feda, on the back it has the typical green FEDA with light etc. and says FEDA MODEL MIXER & SPEED CONTROLLER) or the RX or the gyro. But it seems like it is either the mixer or the RX. I will play more tommorow, when I can get more hands to help hold this thing. Anyone have ideas on how to diagnos this? Thanks.
Posted on: 4/8/2003 5:36 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672674

Got the part but now have other problems
Good and Bad/worse news!! I got the part I needed from Century in Milpitas,CA. They are helpful and nice to deal with. I put it all back together, trimmed it and tried flying. It flew for about 2 minutes fairly smoothly since replacing the part and adjusting the tention on the rotor blades. That was all the good news! And then it lost radio signal or it was jammed for some reason. This was luckily at just under hover speed. It had fully charged batteries everywhere. I put my foot on the training gear and then I grabbed it and held it until the battery wore out so I could take the cover off without catching the blades and un-clip the battery. Kind of scary! I brought it back in the house and put on a fresh battery and it still would not get signal. I disconnected and reconnected the battery a few times and then it started working for a few seconds and then glitched and the blades spun even though the stick was down and servos twitched a couple times. It is kind of off and on, very unreliable radio or electronics. Must be something with a bad connection somewhere. It did this once before as well. I do not know if it is the radio, the Gyro or the mixers. This is a FEDA min-dragonfly with GWS PG-03 FEDA mixer (I guess) Zhen HUA PCM_4CH trans ??? receiver Last time when it would not respond to the radio, I pulled the plug for the gyro out and the servos started working. Also this time when flying when it failed the gyro light went from green to red for a moment. What does that mean? From one problem to the next. I wish it would just work so I could fly it. Does anyone have any experience with these parts and do you have an idea as to what it might be? Are the mixers or receiver just too cheap to function properly? Time to buy better electronics? Attached are the electronics pics.
Posted on: 4/8/2003 4:42 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672672

rotor hub / head
I have contacted the seller (from ebay) he sold 4 of these. He is out of Chicago and I am west coast so I do not know what he will do about it. Theoreticaly he is not responsible as warantee is with the manufacture out of China or Hong Kong or somewhere. I can go down the street and get one for 12.95 at Century. I just do not think I should have to pay for it but that will be much quicker. Assuming I get a new one how smooth should I expect this heli to be or is there always some bad vibration at various speeds? It is so bad now it shakes violently and the electronics get wierded out to the point that you have to unplug the battery to stop it. Total loss of radio control. Hoping all that goes away with a new rotor head and some balancing and counter weight tape etc. Thanks for your input.
Posted on: 4/6/2003 5:50 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672668

a piture of the problem
Here is a picture of the deformed rotor head. The top slants down to the right making the rotor blades track in different planes. And it is very unbalanced. Do I just replace it or is there a better fix?
Posted on: 4/5/2003 10:35 PM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672663

Hummingbird/FEDA mini Dragonfly, rotor head warped?
I just got my heli today and set it up. I also switched from mode 1 to 2 and stuff. But I have a problem the rotor hub is de-formed. The rotor Hub has a slant defect in it which causes one rotor blade tip to hang 1 inch lower than the other even if I remove the rotor and position it 180 degrees around it still slants to the same side. It is not a blade adjustment. I can see it wobble with the main rotor head removed when you spin the main shaft. The main shaft is not bent, just the Hub. It seems to have a mold defect. Or maybe when they melted the bearings on they warped it. For a humingbird (like the feda) it is part CNE004 For the FEDA mini-Dragonfly it is part number 5017 rotor head This comes with bearings but I just need the rotor hub. Has anyone else had this problem? Any quick fix for it like boiling it and it will pop back into shape or something? Or do I have to shell out another $12.95 for a 2 cent piece of plastic? Thanks for any help
Posted on: 4/5/2003 8:43 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=672662

separates setup
Hoverup, The information on [url]http://www.helihobby.com/html/separate_electronics.html[/url] is very helpful but I guess your setup is somewhat a mix of the two examples? The first example's schematic (under image 8 shows a Mixer on channels 3 and 4) that the main ESC and tail Gyro plugs into. The text does not talk about it. Is this really just the REVO being illistrated and is it really in the radio TX? I would guess that wiring for "Hoverups setup" to be more like the brushless example (schematic under image 12) but with the brushed components of example #1 (with the exception of the CSM HLG 200 HH gyro )! So do you wire the HLG 200 HH gyro by using just the one wire to the tail rotor ESC for control? And I assume that since it has Heading Hold you do not use REVO mixing? It seems like the more I read the less I know....
Posted on: 3/25/2003 6:17 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=578859

Century Hummingbird
. rotortiller - I have tilled the ground a few times with my other heli's mail rotors!
Posted on: 3/24/2003 7:58 AM by Author "rotortiller" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=578857