RE: Club Enya
That's the prettiest test stand I have ever seen. I bet you could sell those. One thing strikes me about the test run though, I noticed you used the "Y" connection to feed the two carbs. I know this is how Enya intended the carbs to be fed, but from the many posts about running the VT-240 here on this thread and the "Does Anyone Love Enyas" thread, two separate feed lines from the same tank or two tanks are what it takes to get a reliable run out of this engine. I have the "Y" connection with my VT-240, but I intend to use the two pickups from one tank method. What percent nitro in the fuel? Another question, did you shut off the power to the glow plugs at some time during the run? You show yourself turning it on, but we never see you opening that throw switch. I also noticed the excellent editing of the movie, but it makes me wonder about the break in procedure you were using. I'm sure it was several short runs to "heat cycle" the engine for break in and not one continuous run like the movie suggests. Just wondering how much break in time had actually elapsed before you made the transition from idle to full power towards the end of the movie. Sorry about all the questions, but I have never run my VT-240 and just wanted to pick your brain. Awesome engine and a great movie about running it. Probably one of the best I have seen on you tube and one of the first in HD. I hope the flying using the engine goes as well. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 8/13/2012 4:47 AM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191376

RE: Club Enya
On Ebay right now! Item number 120966323800. New in the box VT-240 with a buy it now shipped of $899! Somebody lend me 900 bucks quick!
Posted on: 8/11/2012 1:24 AM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189047

RE: Sig Rascal 110
I have an original Rascal 110 still in the box. I plan to use a DLE 20 for power, but I bought the Syssa battery eliminator too. I will be using one Life battery in mine. Mike
Posted on: 7/31/2012 10:51 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176812

RE: Sig Rascal 110
Sounds like you are having fun. How have you hooked up your Syssa engine? I know Syssa sells the battery eliminator circuit module. Just wondering how many batteries you are using? Mike MacLean
Posted on: 7/31/2012 4:24 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176431

RE: Club Enya
I have not run my VT-240 yet and I have owned it for over a year. Now if I was as handy as AmishWarlord on building test stands, I would even make a YouTube video of the test run. I did get to hear Bill Jensen test run it over the phone though. Not quite like being there. I was planning on putting it in an RC Guys Agwagon that I have still in the box, but if they are going for $1500 now I will just buy a DLE engine for the Agwagon. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 7/17/2012 9:59 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159496

RE: Club Enya
Well, 10 mm will not work. I think 2 mm is about as close as I want to get using the 8 mm screw that I decided on. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/26/2012 12:11 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132665

RE: Club Enya
OK, I'm not sure if they are fused as I did not unscrew the carb side of the bracket during the rebuild. Maybe the idea is thickness to assure the screw will not contact the valve train. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/26/2012 11:27 AM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132593

RE: Club Enya
Yes, I have two brackets too. They are both on the same side. The "L" shaped bracket is a two plates somehow fused together and both on one side. Are we talking about a double thickness plate or a single plate on each side? Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/26/2012 10:00 AM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132478

RE: Club Enya
I don't know why you have 2 brackets, but maybe they found out one bracket was not strong enough. There are no threaded holes on the opposite side of my engine for another bracket. I would just leave well enough alone on your engine. Why mess with something that works? Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/25/2012 9:06 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131961

RE: Club Enya
Update to 46 4C carb mounting bracket stripped threads. While I am waiting for the 3 MM bottom tap to arrive I thought I would just try a longer screw. According to the parts list in the original instructions, the screw that is used to fasten the "L" shaped bracket to the gear housing is 3mm X 6mm long. I bought a bag of 3mm X 8mm socket head cap screws and a bag of 3mm X 10mm screws. I tried the screw with the 10mm thread length first and it screwed in securely and held the bracket tightly. I thought I had solved the problem, but when I tried to turn the crankshaft it stopped before TDC in both directions! I then tried the socket head cap screw with the 8mm length of thread. It too held securely, but this time the engine turned over fine. Bottom tapping the hole would not solve this problem because any thread over 8mm will block the follower below the pushrod! I am going to use the 8mm screw with a mild threadlocker. Problem solved! Whew! Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/25/2012 8:24 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131930

RE: Club FOX!
Well, aren't you the wealth of Fox information! ;^) Mine is the bead blasted crankcase, it's the carb and backplate that is shiny. I went digging through my parts boxes and found a brand new Mac's muffler that looks to be a perfect fit! I just need to ream the two through holes in the crankcase tabs for the slightly larger mounting screws on the muffler. Now that the engine is loose and lubed well, it really pops when you turn over the prop. Great compression! This should be fun! Thanks Earl. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/23/2012 5:20 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129147

RE: Club FOX!
Wow! They just line right up with the holes in the cankcase. I'll have to file down the two little raised bosses above and below the exhaust port for a flush fit. With an exhaust diverter like the one in your first picture you can keep the airplane pretty clean from the looks of it. Thanks for the info! Maybe I should read the owner's manual that came with it in any case. You can tell it's old, the paper is yellowed on one side I'm guessing where it was exposed to the light at one time. The box it came in is an off white and only has "FOX 29RC" with "22900" stamped on it. Makes me wonder when this was made. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/23/2012 4:48 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129112

RE: Club FOX!
I am aware of heat cycling and will break it in this way. I used Dawn Power Dissolver to loosen it up just now. I sprayed some down on the piston and inside on the con rod crank pin. After opening the back, I could see it was just old castor oil. After sitting for 15 minutes or so, I washed it out with hot water, then baked it for a while in the oven to dry it out. I put after run oil all through it and the crank is turning fine now. This engine has an idle bar glow plug from the factory. Will it run OK with any modern plugs? What kind of mufflers will fit this engine? Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/23/2012 3:51 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129066

RE: Club FOX!
I just got my NIB Fox .29RC for an Ebay auction I won with very little opposition. I am trying to re-create a Little Stick (I have a laser cut short kit) that I had back in 1974. I was stationed in Thailand with the Air Force at Korat AB. They had a Model Airplane club with a Quonset hut for building the models and a large model airplane flying field some distance from the runway. All I remember was the bleak selection of kits and engines, but the Midwest Little Stik and the Fox .29RC seemed to be a perfect match to me and it turned out I was right! That thing flew great! The problem I have is this "new" engine has apparently sat for a LONG time. The piston is stuck solid. It looks like the oil that had been in it ran out the exhaust port while it was in storage and left the piston dry. Rust? Maybe a little Marvel Mystery oil and a short bake in the oven? The oven part is OK, I don't have a wife to complain. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/23/2012 1:58 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128967

RE: Club Enya
David, That answers my question with exactly the information I needed. I am very versed on American UNF threads and the difference between British Fine and American UNF (United National Fine) because I restore Austin Healeys as another hobby. I am lucky there as you can just go down to the local ACE hardware and buy American UNF fasteners and use them in British BSF (British Standard Fine) threaded holes because the angle of the thread itself in only 1 degree different. 60 degrees versus 59 degrees between threads). Boy, the stuff you learn here!
Posted on: 6/19/2012 3:07 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124251

RE: Club Enya
OK, if I can steer you guys away from timing issues for a second, I have a technical question. In searching for a bottom tap to cut the threads deeper in the gear case for the "L" shaped bracket that holds the carb on my 46 4C, I find it a little confusing trying to buy the right one. There are 2 different pitch types. One is 3mm X .5mm and the other is 3mm X .6mm. Neither talk about TPI. How do I know which one is correct for the hole in Enya engines? Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/19/2012 2:25 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124199

RE: Club Enya
I have only one "L" shaped bracket. The stripped hole is in the carb body. I can get a 3 mm bottom tap cheap to take the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole or I can spring for the Helicoil repair kit for $39 and fix it right. Besides, I'll have enough 3 mm Helicoil inserts to last the rest of my life! I'll probably need it for my next EBay Enya engine anyway. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/17/2012 1:17 AM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120883

RE: Club Enya
I had not thought of drilling the hole all the way through. I'll have to check to see if I will be drilling through anything, but a long socket head cap screw and a nylon insert locking nut just might be the ticket. Thank you Dauntlessuk. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/16/2012 11:49 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120859

RE: Club Enya
I thought about going with a larger tapped hole. I will also have to drill out the through hole in the bracket which is tiny and made of what looks like stainless steel. Not an insurmountable task, but something else to contend with. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/16/2012 5:15 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120557

RE: Club Enya
I installed the ring I got from Frank Bowman in my 46 4C yesterday. It thought it was supposed to be a drop in thing, but I had to grind the gap myself as there was less than no gap when I fit it to the bore. Per Frank I used 600 grit sandpaper taking a 3 inch by 1 inch piece folded in half. I drew the gap closed on the sandpaper with light pressure until the correct gap was achieved. A nice fit after a little effort. After roughing up the bore with the same 600 grit sandpaper, I now have a noticeable increase of compression compared to the new Enya ring. I'm sure it will increase after I run it to seat the ring. I still have to attach the fuel nipple that fell out. (J&B Weld will work here). Of course there always has to be something that keeps you from a complete job. The 3mm screw that holds the bracket that goes between the timing gear box at the rear of the engine and the carb (holds the carb in place) stripped out. I did not over tighted it, I just think prior disasembly on more than one occasion had weakened it to the point the threads just let go. These are the threads in the carb body, not the gear box. Not wanting to sink any more money in this engine (heli-coil repair kit is $38) a new carb body is out too. Any suggestions on what to do about this last repair so I can test this engine? Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/16/2012 1:51 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120393

RE: Club Enya
Oh great, now your going to make me start looking at all my other engines including my VT240. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/11/2012 6:17 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115005

RE: Club Enya
I measured the ring gap of the 46 4C with a new Enya replacement ring 3 places in the bore. I found a .004 feeler gauge blade would fit at the top of the bore and at the middle and 3/4 the way down I could only get a .003 feeler to fit. I emailed Frank Bowman about this and he said that when running, that would open up about .001 more. He also said it should be only a gap of .001. I sent for a ring. He charges $10 and $4 shipping for this size ring. I'll feel a lot better with one of his rings in there. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/11/2012 5:26 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11114941

RE: Club Enya
Hobbsy, That's the first time I tried the antifreeze method and was how well it worked. I like something that works with no work on my part. Bill, Thanks for that info. I'll check the gap in the Enya ring three places in the bore tonight. If the gap is constant through the bore I'll only have the gap in the ring to deal with. Looks like I may send for ring from Frank after all. Mike
Posted on: 6/10/2012 7:06 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11113822

RE: Club Enya
Obviously, the ring gap is to be measured compressed in the piston groove, but how is this accomplished? Also, are you saying to hone the bore is to get the top within a closer diameter to the bottom? Mike
Posted on: 6/10/2012 6:32 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11113760

RE: Club Enya
By the way, pardon my ignorance. What is the "Saito method" of breaking in an engine? Mike
Posted on: 6/10/2012 4:40 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11113630

RE: Club Enya
Thanks, I'd rather not take it apart again anyway. Mike
Posted on: 6/10/2012 4:34 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11113623

RE: Club Enya
Did you sand the inside of the liner with 400-600grit sandpaper? If not, you should. Otherwise, run it. My .60 had nearly zero compression until I ran it. After the first tank the compression really came up. After a gallon, it feels like I'm turning my 90 2-stroke over. And this is an Enya ring. I would think a Bowman ring would be a lot better. It's a new ring from Enya. I kinda guessed the seal between the ring and the wall was not perfect. I'll sand it with some 600 grit just for insurance before I run it. MPEGs coming. Mike
Posted on: 6/10/2012 3:23 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11113566

RE: Club Enya
Finally got my 46 4C back together. I put a new ring that Ken Enya sent me in it last night. After installing a prop, I turned it over and got almost no compression. The timing is correct and the valves were clean and looked to seat well. Am I missing something here? As for the new 90, used on Ebay is the only way I can justify the price of another Enya engine. Maybe if the dollar gets a lot stronger... Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/10/2012 11:31 AM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11113353

RE: Club Enya
Just wanted to thank the guys on this list that helped me with this latest project. I used the slow cooker in antifreeze overnight on low on this Enya 46 4C. I wanted to show the before and after pics. The bearings have not arrived yet and I temporarily did a partial re-assembly just to show the difference. Night and day. After cleaning up the little support bearing for the timing drive gear in the gear timing case I am going to leave it in place because it turns freely and is not gritty. Besides, I have not figured out how to get it out anyway. When I first got this engine, I turned it over and it was very notchy and the valves did not move. Of course the bearing would have to be replaced at least. When I tore it down I found the followers were stuck in their bores leaving the valves open all the time. the piston had hardened and stuck on castor oil and the crown was thick with carbon. The ring was stuck compressed. After cleaning the piston the ring springs open to seal the bore now, so I have decided not to replace it, at first. In fact, the inside is as clean as the outside now. I'll try to post a video after I get it running. Thanks again guys. The collective wisdom of this forum never fails to amaze me. Long live the internet! MIke MacLean
Posted on: 6/4/2012 5:12 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106474

RE: Club Enya
I have had a J&B Weld fix to the fuel line to tank connection of my Austin Healey for ten years. So far no leak. At least gasoline with ethanol does not effect it. Might just work in this case too. Mike MacLean
Posted on: 6/3/2012 4:21 PM by Author "rrengineer" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105102