RE: OS GT33 Walbro Carb
Check your local lawnmower repair shop. The shop I go to had a bucket of used carbs the last time I was there.
Posted on: 6/17/2012 10:13 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11121979

RE: Ethanol-free gas?
Changing over to ethanol free fuel was a no brainier for me. In my planes I only use about 5 gallons of premix a year and where i buy my fuel from it's only about 28 cents more a gallon then a comparable ethanol blended fuel. So doing the math, 5 times 28 equals $1.40. That's $1.40 per year or $.002 per ounce per. That's pretty cheep insurance for a entire year. I find it odd that guys will spend hundreds of dollars on engines, exhaust, props etc. to get the best performance possible, but then shoot people down when they talk about using different fuels. For me and my work place, we made the switch over to ethanol free fuels for good. The only regret is not switching over earlier.
Posted on: 2/21/2012 9:44 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10969133

RE: Ethanol-free gas?
Heet's main ingredient is methanol. Premium fuel: No, not all premium fuel is ethanol free. Some is not even premium fuel. Where i live there is only two tank farms that sells fuel to all the retail stations in the area under several different names. When you hear people say that it all comes out of the same tank, it is some what true. When the fuel truck is at the tank farm they add there brands additives. These additives are used to market to the customer. Some companies even buy low grade gas and then adds an octane booster, turning around and selling it as premium fuel. Does anyone remember years and years ago when everyone thought that Arco gas contained water and there car ran like crap on Arco gas. If not, well we received hundreds of complaints. In some cases people where right, No Arco did not add water tio there gas but Arco was one of the first companies to start using ethanol. Ethanol being the great solvent and moisture absorbent it is, loosened up all the old settlement and water in the fuel trucks, retail stations tanks and their lines. All that old moisture and settlement found it's way into the customers cars and caused several fuel related problems. Fortunately all that was years ago and it is no longer an issue.
Posted on: 2/15/2012 8:54 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10960063

RE: Ethanol-free gas?
We started using ethanol free fuel just over a year ago due to problems thought to be caused by the ethanol in the fuel. Some of the problem were hard starting, poor idle, lost of power,engine dying, and damaged fuel systems. It has been just over a year now since the change over and we have been problem free. Here is a website for locating ethanol free gas station: http://pure-gas.org Ethanol free gas is also sold at airports and marinas. We have a local station that has ethanol free fuel for just 20 cents a gallon more than comparable ethanol fuel. I would recommend using ethanol free fuel if you don't fly enough to use all your fuel every couple weeks. Here are some facts about fuel with ethanol: First off it is not pump through pipe lines, The ethanol is added at the distribution facility. It has a very short shelf life. It is made to be used with in a week or two. As soon as the ethanol is added to the fuel it begins to phase out, losing octane. Ethanol attracts moisture, Ethanol has 28% less energy density than gasoline Small engine manufactures like Honda does not recommend using fuel with more than 10% ethanol Fuel stabilizers do not help with ethanol fuel problems. Here is a quote from Honda: "Ethanol is an excellent solvent, drying agent and cleanser. It will clean or dissolve some parts of, and deposits in, fuel storage and fuel delivery systems, including some fuel tank materials. The dissolved material can clog filters or pass through and leave deposits on fuel injectors, fuel pumps, fuel pressure regulators, carburetor jets, intake tracts, valves, and valve guides.
Posted on: 2/14/2012 10:06 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10959574

RE: Final setup details on my new gas plane!
All the ignitions I use (3w, ZDZ, CH, RCexl) work better at 4.8 volts. Believe it or not, but a 4.8 volt battery has a longer run time than a 6 volt and is easier on the ignition. Usually a 4.8 volt 1000mah to 1500mah battery on a single cylinder engine is fine. I just checked my Ignition battery on my Extra and after flying it for 28 minutes it used only 184 mahs. Oil ratios depend on the oil manufactures requirements. Some oils are made to run at 20 to 1 while others are at 100 to 1. If you run a 100 to 1 oil say at 32:1 you'll stick the ring and burn up the engine. A 20 to 1 oil mixed at 100 to 1 you'll toast your engine. I would suggest using Stihl chain saw oil. They make a full synthetic and a semi synthetic available in 2.6 oz bottles. For your Nicad batteries buy a HOBBICO ACCU-CYCLE ELITE CHARGER. It's simple to use and will charge two packs at the same time.
Posted on: 1/16/2012 2:38 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10912078

RE: engine tuning help?
Thanks all for all the great advice, I went back and reset the needles to their stock positions, tighten up the throttle linkage, and the engine fired right up and ran fine. Ran it a second time, and it still does not idle right. When I cut the throttle to an idle it runs at a fast idle for 5 to 10 seconds then drops to a dead slow idle. The engine just won't run between fast idle and a dead slow idle. I've adjusted the needles lean and richer with no luck. Could this be an rotary valve problem? Thanks again Rick
Posted on: 10/18/2011 10:11 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10764000

RE: is this arf defective???
I think they're trying to keep the switches as far away from one another to limit RF interference. On smaller planes you you gain a few inches of distance by running the switches on opposite sides. Sounds like your building a larger plane ("about 17" away OC") so there is probably no need to mount the switches on opposite sides ..
Posted on: 10/15/2011 9:12 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10767334

engine tuning help?
I have a ZDZ 40RV That I can't seem to get to run right. Two problems. The first is the idle is very sensitive. It will idle high and then drop off suddenly to a very slow idle. I can't get the thing to run in between. I have adjusted the carburetor leaner and richer, even switched out the carburetor with a new one and it still behaves the same way. I then adjusted the timing and changed the spark plug and gapped it to specs. Still could not get the engine to idle right. The second problem is when the engine is up to full rpms, when I cut the throttle the engine dies abruptly. If I reduce the rpms slowly the engine will remain running. The engine is a newer engine, producing good power, transitions well from idle to full rpms, and compression is okay. I have fresh fuel, checked the cylinder base gasket, adjusted the timing, and changed carburetor with one off of a good running engine. I'm not sure where to go from here. The only other things I can think of is the rotary valve or ignition. Where should I go from here? Thanks
Posted on: 10/12/2011 4:08 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10762161

RE: 3W 24 hall sensor wrong rotation.
Hi Elson With your 3w 24s did you experience very many ignition failures? I have read about a lot of failures with the older systems but have not had any failures personally.
Posted on: 9/16/2011 10:16 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10719550

RE: 3W 24 hall sensor wrong rotation.
Hi Antique What if I open up the unit and silicone the all components. Would that solve the problem? Thanks
Posted on: 9/15/2011 10:44 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10718974

RE: 3W 24 hall sensor wrong rotation.
Thanks the info T.O.M. It seems a lot of guys have switched out there 3W ignitions with after market ones. I'm hoping to pick up somebodies old one l that they don't need anymore.
Posted on: 9/15/2011 10:15 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10718951

RE: 3W 24 hall sensor wrong rotation.
I guess I will need a new sensor, It's an old style three wire If anyone has one laying around that they no longer need please let me know Thanks Rick
Posted on: 9/15/2011 9:24 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10718885

3W 24 hall sensor wrong rotation.
I have a new 3W 24 engine that I went to start for the first time today. The engine started but ran rough, as if it was too rich so I leaned out the high needle. The rpms increased but the engine would still not reach peak rpms and ran bad. The next attempt to start the engine it fired up in reverse. The engine was a totally different engine. Silky smooth idle, crisp transition and prop ripping peak. Everything was perfect but in reverse. I noticed that the hall sensor wire sheathing on the engine was green in color, which is different from all my other 3Ws. They all have black wire sheathing. Does the green sheathing on the hall sensor designate that it is for reverse rotation? I switched out the hall with one from another engine and the engine now runs great (in the right direction). I compared the two sensors and notice that on the under side of the sensor the pickups are in opposite locations. This explains the reverse running.
Posted on: 9/15/2011 8:54 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10718766

RE: Brison 3.2
I notice that my Taurus has a single ring piston and the Walker Sachs has a 2 ring piston, Both have the same cylinder with the exception of the rounded fin on the Taurus.
Posted on: 8/31/2011 9:46 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10696191

RE: Brison 3.2
The engine is a Walker Machine with a Sachs crank not A&M.
Posted on: 8/28/2011 5:54 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691077

RE: Brison 3.2
Here you go: http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=776138 Less than you'll spend on new parts.
Posted on: 8/28/2011 2:39 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10690031

RE: Non Chinese Gas Engines
Here's my list of gassers: two 3w24s 3w28 ZDZ 40 3w48 twin Taurus 52 Walker Sachs 52 Brison 52 I sure like the reliability and simplicity of the Sachs base engines with CH ignition. For glow engines I prefer YS, love how they sound and the power they produce. Wish they would make a gas engine! Has anyone ever tried to convert one to gas?
Posted on: 8/9/2011 11:55 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10663726

RE: how long do you keep your 2 stroke mix?
We use to store premix for several months with no problems, but the problem now is that most fuel bought contains ethanol The ethanol absorbs moisture causing the same problems in Glow fuel and the fuel also starts to faze out immediately, losing octane. Some premix oils do help stabilize but does not help with the ethanol related problems. IF you plan on storing any gas (premix or straight) for more then a couple month I would recommend purchasing ethanol free gas. A few gas station and all marinas in my area carry ethanol free gas.
Posted on: 7/17/2011 11:22 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10625235

RE: ZDZ 40RE...good engine?.
It starts easily - is this by hand or with an electric starter? Would starting be comparable to what I might expect from a DLE? Regarding starting easily. My ZDZ engine starts by hand with out issue even after sitting for a year. a ZDZ 40 (not the F3A version) vs. a DLE 30 in a shoot out I use a 20/8 to a 20/12 prop on my ZDZ 40, I don't have a DLE 30 but I believe most guys are using 18/8, same prop I use on my 3w24[;)] A shoot out does not show the total value of an engine, you have to take in account the quality of the product as mentioned by T.O.M. above.. Here's an example that comes to mind, My neighbors KIA Sorento might out run my wife's X5 in 0-60 run, but there is certainly no comparing in the two.
Posted on: 5/16/2011 1:33 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10523651

RE: ZDZ 40RE...good engine?.
Cheaper engines are not that much less money than ZDZ engines. The standard ZDZ 40 is only $10 more then the DLE 55 and they offer 4 different types. In the long run a ZDZ ends up costing less if your having to replace the bearings in the cheap engines Unless the new cheap bearings where only 8-9 dollar, or you can buy quality bearings for 25-30 dollars. Wait a minute: 8-25+10+T, oh never mind All that I'm saying is; It is just like most anything else, You can buy quality performance stuff that last and when it does need work done on it, it's worth having repaired. Or you can buy stuff that when it's time to have it fixed the guy at the shop tells you it's not worth fixing and throws out in the dumpster overflowing in the back.
Posted on: 5/16/2011 9:09 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10523159

RE: Engine for 1/7 scale TF P-51?
In your title you typed 1/7 but in your message you typed 1/5. I think it's causing a little confusing If it's a 60 size (1/7) a FG36 Saito will work. I have a couple 1/7 mustangs and I'm running YS110s, they sound awesome and they are little rockets.
Posted on: 5/15/2011 7:58 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522240

RE: ZDZ 40RE...good engine?.
I have a ZDZ 40. Never had any starting issues, It fires right up and runs great every time.
Posted on: 5/15/2011 7:45 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522218

RE: 3W Video
I really like all my 3w engines, They're all good running, have great power range, and are very smooth with little to no vibrations. The brand new ones that I have purchased, arrived in perfect ready to run condition. When people talk about comparing 3w engines to the Chinese engines, I think of my buddies Chinese knock off motorcycles. They run good, they have some neat features, but they just don't compare to the real thing. After awhile parts literally start to fall apart, engines begin to lose power, leak oil, become hard to start etc. It also reminds me of the time when I went with my brother to cut firewood. He brought three of his cheap chainsaws, and all three give him nothing but trouble all day long. Even the brand new one he just bought. I brought my old trusty German made Stihl that ran great all day long. Sure my Stihl cost more then all three of his chainsaws combined, but you know what? I still have my saw and it's still running great. Not to go on and on but when my dad retired from the hobby a few years back, he gave me some of his old engines to use. None of them said Made in China on the side of them. When I retire from the hobby I plan on giving my son my old 3w engines and maybe my old Stihl.
Posted on: 4/28/2011 7:53 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10489120

Need help with a Electrical question, and would like to know if anyone is running this setup
I have a plane that I'm running one 5s2p 16.6v 4600mah A123 pack and a 2s2p 6.6V 4600mAh A123 pack wired in series for a total 23.2 volts. My question is: Would there be a problem running power (6.6Volts) off of the 2s2p pack to power my receiver My thought is to just run a wire from my receiver and plug in the balancing tap. Do you guys see any problems with that? I will be running 4 non digital coreless servos (futaba 9001s). The batteries will be charged with a Cellpro 10s. The plane is a warbird so not a lot of servo power draw, I figure around 150mah of power use pure flight. Thanks
Posted on: 4/6/2011 2:38 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10443497

RE: Need help with a Electrical question, and would like to know if anyone is running this setup
Okay, to clear things up a little bit. The setup would be similar to the attached image with the exception of the battery pack powering the receiver is a 2s, not a 6s and there is no need for a bec since I'm using A123 cells (6.6volt for 2s).
Posted on: 4/6/2011 2:32 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10447109

RE: Need help with a Electrical question, and would like to know if anyone is running this setup
That's my question. Is there a problem doing that?
Posted on: 4/5/2011 2:33 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10445084

RE: Nicad vs. Nimh
I second NIcads, They seem to hold up better, and they don't self discharge like Nimhs. Go to NOBS batteries website for more info. http://www.hangtimes.com/nobsbatteries.htmls
Posted on: 2/15/2011 9:00 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10339527

RE: Ebay Futaba 1000 mah nicad receiver batteries
Here is my experience with Futaba Batteries. and the others. Futaba batteries are incredible. I have had some last for over 15 years and finally threw them out just because they were so old. I currently have 6 of the 1500mah Futaba packs that I bought off of Ebay and they are all working fine. NBOS batteries are very well made. I have 4 of their packs and they are holding up just fine. BatteriesofAmerica. packs have not worked well for me, I bought 5 packs at a model expo dirrectly from the supplier and now only have one pack left. One pack from day one would not cycle to capacity, 3 of them only lasted a couple years, and one is still working fine after 4 years. Some of the receiver packs sold on Ebay are from new radio packages that are being parted out. If the seller has good feedback and states the battery packs are new, I would not hesitate to buy them.
Posted on: 2/10/2011 8:29 AM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10325845

RE: OS 26 FS Rusted-In Rear Bearing
Couple things come to mind that I have done in the past. 1. Soak the engine in some good penetrating oil, use some heat and really let the stuff soak-in for a few days. Heat the engine up so the stuff can really soak in, and then let it cool and heat the thing up again. Do this a few times, be patient and let the stuff work. Now try it again, Heat the engine case with a touch evenly from the outside, try not heat up the bearing (use a piece of damp cloth on the bearing or use a steel bar up against the bearing to work as a heat sink). Try driving the bearing out again. 2. If your in a hurry and just can't wait, you can cut the bearing out. Remove the inner parts of the bearing leaving just the outer race and cut the a slit in the outer race trying not to damage the engine case. The bearing should drive right out. I would still soak it with penetrating oil first to reduce the odds of damaging the case. Good luck.
Posted on: 1/13/2011 10:13 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10262061

RE: Battery & balance
I have ran my battery that close using a rf choke core. I would think if you are worried about the battery you would also be concerned about the servo. The servo wire zip tied to the ignition sensor is probably not a good ideal.
Posted on: 11/26/2010 9:31 PM by Author "rstearman" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10161251