Looking for super cub blue prints
Hello everyone, I'm looking for a set of blue prints or the equivelent for the Piper Super Cub. I'd like to build a 50% model and am seriously thinking of welding up the fuse just like the full size version. Any help locating a set would be greatly appreciated. I know that Greame Mears (spelling?) did one in 33% and competes in scale with it. He designed his in CAD and has all the bells and whistles. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 11/28/2010 6:40 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10165219

RE: cutting pink foam for wings
It sounds like your heat setting is too hot. I don't know if you have some type of machine to pull the cores or are hand pulling them. Ideally, the heat setting should be just hot enough to melt the foam. I set mine by putting the bow on the foam and then dialing up the heat till it just starts to melt into the foam. The next thing of importance is the pull pressure and rate of cut. Just enough force should be given to start the cut without bending the wire; let the wire do the work. With a set of glass smooth templates and whats talked about above, you should have glass smooth dead flat cores. Good luck, Todd
Posted on: 11/9/2010 8:43 AM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10124234

RE: predator plans
Thanks mcuav. I couldn't get the download to work. I have received some DFX files from another site but am having a problem getting them to print out as a set of plans. Hopefully I can get them figured out because they look like a really good set.
Posted on: 12/9/2009 1:04 AM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9315652

predator plans
Hi all, does anybody know where I could find some predator plans? I would like to build a large one using a G-62 or similar for a video platform. All my searches have fallen short and I am wondering if I will need to draw my own. I'd much rather have this part already done since I'm currently drawing a half scale RV-4 and would like to have the Predator done in time for our Spring fly-in. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 12/1/2009 9:49 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9296254

RE: What does everybody do for a living??
I have spent the last 18 years as a fire fighter. I have run boats and cars since I was 10 and didn't start into the 3rd dimension till I turned 40 and haven't even looked back at 2 dimensional vehicles. I wish I had learned to fly half a life time ago.[:D] I do construction, welding, and numerous other things that have really helped with building the models I fly. I fell upon this thread by accident and have really enjoyed all the posts. It's nice to be able to put the names I see in the posts I follow with the descriptions and tales here! Here's to a great hobby and/or lifestyle for some of us. Todd
Posted on: 7/3/2009 6:05 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Planes/Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8904211

RE: H.O.R. throttle servo getting ruined
Well, I opened up the cases of 2 of the servos and they were spotless inside. The hitec 311 standard servo when hooked up with the motor/circuit board removed doesn't respond to signal input initially. If you rotate the armature you can feel resistance in a couple of spots. You can actually spin the shaft and it will take off, move the stick one direction or another and it will stop at a certain point. If you rotate the servo horn (the pot is still inside and attached) it has the same reaction as moving the stick. It's almost like the motor isn't getting full power. The pot works. I haven't ran the jr micro simply because its a pain to get the circuit board and motor out and will assume ( I know, I know) the same thing. Are there brushes in these small motors? If so, it almost acts like they need replaced.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 4:15 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8904003

RE: H.O.R. throttle servo getting ruined
I guess it could be fuel, I didn't even think of that. I'll have to open a couple of them up and see. I just figured the engine vibrations killed them.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 6:14 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898808

RE: H.O.R. throttle servo getting ruined
I'd like the chance to get to strip the gears, so far all the gear trains are in mint condition.[:D]
Posted on: 7/1/2009 6:09 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898783

RE: H.O.R. throttle servo getting ruined
I built the 15 size H.O.R. with a new magnum 15. The servos "were" a hitec 81 micro, a jr micro, and a futaba standard. Every one failed with about the same amount of time of engine running as the others.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 5:59 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898748

RE: H.O.R. throttle servo getting ruined
Thanks for the tip on the slippable linkage Randy; what a great idea! This isn't the problem yet, our linkages aren't stalled. We have used both a regular and a micro servo with the same outcome. I really think that since it is being mounted directly on the motor mount and is taking every vibration that the engine throws at it, that it is shaking the holy electrics out of it, so to speak. By the way, what plane do you fly and what is the plane in the picture?
Posted on: 7/1/2009 5:55 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898733

H.O.R. throttle servo getting ruined
Hey guys, the club I belong to have started to fly SSC with H.O.R.'s built from SttB. We love the way they fly but after about a half dozen flights or so, the throttle servo is "burning out"; we have lost 3 servos on 2 different planes so far. The props have all been ballanced. After 6 or so flights you can't throttle back or kill the engine. If you rotate the servo arm by hand, is feels like a brand new servo. Once it is hooked up to a receiver and you rotate it by hand, it will stick in random spots for a brief moment then go back to acting like it's not powered at all. All this happens just from normal flight, we haven't even used them for their intended purpose yet. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions to remedy this? We are really looking forward to using our new planes but at the rate this is going would be cost prohibitive, let alone the inconvenience and safety issues. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 7/1/2009 5:09 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898610

RE: Inexpensive ? receiver source
Hey, thanks guys. I appreciate your help. I knew there had to be a less expensive route. I'll place an order but I think I will also do some looking around at the swap meets this fall. Thanks again, Todd
Posted on: 6/15/2009 6:29 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8854536

Inexpensive ? receiver source
I was just wondering if anybody had a source for some relatively inexpensive receivers for combat use. Anybody's 2 cents worth about a source, as well as, pro's and con's would be greatly appreciated. JR and/or Futaba compatable in the 72 mhz range. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 6/13/2009 6:58 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8849603

RE: Need help, Byron's 1/3 Christen Eagle
RACE 66, is your offer still available? I sure would appreciate it; just let me know what I need to do. Thanks
Posted on: 3/10/2009 6:20 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8564071

RE: Spectrum Receiver type usage
The reason for the second satelite receiver or second antennae is that the spectrum and JR 2.4's find, lock in, and transmit on 2 separate frequencies. Some of the other brands use a rolling type of transmission and only use any given frequency for basically milliseconds at a time. And yes, new technology not only means smaller but usually packed with more features also.
Posted on: 3/8/2009 11:05 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8557780

RE: Spectrum Receiver type usage
I also fly using both the spectrum DX7 as well as the JR X9303. Both are excellent transmitters and they both can use the Spectrum line of receivers. I personally have 2 Jr 9 channel, 4 AR700's, 3 AR 6200's and 5 of the newer (and cheaper if you only need 5 or less channels) AR500's. The 500's ARE a full range receiver even though they only have the single module with one short antennae and one long antennae. The long one is a coaxial antennae that basically serves as the other (second) receiver. It must be extended and the last couple of inches placed 90 degrees to the short one. I have been using this receiver since it came out and have had absolutely no problems with it. I am known to fly a long ways away and it behaves just like its multi-receiver brothers. It does have 2 aileron channels for easy hookup and looks like it might be a 6 channel but it isn't. All receivers are shock sensitive and should be treated as such. As far as I know, the only thing that stops or blocks the 2.4's signal is metal objects (engines, ect) and that is one of the reasons for the satelite receiver with these 2 brands. The beauty of these short antennaes is that you don't see it. The foam covering will not interfere with its signal catching ability. Enjoy
Posted on: 3/8/2009 8:57 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8557328

RE: Need help, Byron's 1/3 Christen Eagle
Hey, thanks guys! I can't convey how much of a help and of the degree of my gratitude. Todd [:D] [:D] [:D]
Posted on: 2/22/2009 11:04 AM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8504771

Need help, Byron's 1/3 Christen Eagle
Does anyone know where I could get a hold of a manual for the Byron's 1/3rd scale Christen Eagle? I have purchased one from an auction and the kit has been started and appears to have all the parts with it except for the manual. I would gladly buy either it or a copy of it if someone is willing to lend a hand. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 2/20/2009 8:56 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8499815

RE: best prop for Hostettlers "full tilt boogie"
Hey, thanks guys. I talked to APC and ordered the T-6 racing props. They are actually a 20-12 prop and they are on the way.
Posted on: 2/11/2009 8:08 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8466574

Byrons' 1/3 scale Eagle
Hello, would anybody happen to have an old Byrons' 1/3 scale Christen Eagle Manual for the kit that they would be willing to part with or copy. I picked the kit up at an auction and it didn't have the construction manual with it. I've looked around for a web site that had them without much luck. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 2/11/2009 7:52 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8466508

best prop for Hostettlers "full tilt boogie"
Any body have any good ideas as to what size and kind of prop to get the most speed from Hostettlers 34% "Full Tilt Boogie" biplane? I'm new to the speed part of this hobby and would appreciate some input. The engine is a 3W 70 cc twin and the plane should weight in around the 20 lb. mark. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 1/29/2009 9:57 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8417681

RE: GMS motors
By all means, buy the GMS. I have a number of them in varying sizes as well as a large assortment of most of the other brands and I have found that they tend to run higher rpm's and quite possibly run a little stronger than most of the other brands. Their toughness is unparalleled as well. Just don't run them lean. I have one of their 61's that I fly on my various "trash fliers" that has taken 3 EXTREMELY hard "landings" with a very steep aproach angle of say around 90 degrees at high throttle settings onto rock and it still runs as well as a new engine and is very reliable unlike the forementioned landings. It just doesn't look new anymore.[:D] This engine should have been toast the first time it hit the ground let alone the other 2 times. Any time from now on is nothing but gravy. I have been very happy with the GMS line!!!
Posted on: 1/15/2009 9:33 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8363017

RE: Need new ideas for something fun
I know, the question is, is it genetic or environmental. [:D] I am taking notes though. There are some really cool ideas out there and now my mind is working on overload. I might get back to some of these for more info. with them. Thanks a whole bunch! Todd
Posted on: 1/7/2009 11:45 AM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8329581

Need new ideas for something fun
Hi everyone, I'm looking for new ideas for our club to do other than the normal fun-fly's or fly-ins that we normally have. We started flying combat last year and for those of us that ventured into this arena, have really enjoyed it. We were all sitting around awhile back and were discussing what we could do new this year or try for a change of pace so to speak. Is there anything out there than anyone has heard of or actually takes part in that you would care to pass on? We have discussed the normal "contests" (e.g. limbo,line cuts, obstacle course, ballon breaks, egg drops, and various other games) and although I welcome any new ones or variations of others, I am really looking for activities of a more "meet weekly or monthly and do" type of thing not unlike the combat which we still continue to do. Any suggestions of any sort would be greatly appreciated and hopefully others of us out there might hear something new that they would like to try also. Thanks everyone in advance!! Todd
Posted on: 1/6/2009 10:42 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8327923

RE: Ryobi 31 cc dying after 12 minute run
Well, problem fixed! The only bad thing is that I'm not sure exactly what the problem was. To make a long story short, I got really P***** off, robbed a carb off my weed eater, installed it, and now she runs great again. I swapped back to the original carb that was malfuntioning and once again, when she heated up, she would die just like before. Swapped back to the weed eater carb and ran 3 tanks of fuel without so much as a gurgle. Yes, this is all that I have been doing since this afternoon! The new carb stays since I don't need my weed eater very often. I have taken apart the screwed up carb and still can't find anything wrong with it. I am going to buy a rebuild kit for it and try it again in the future but it will probably be put onto the weedeater. I'm going FLYING!!! Thanks everybody for all the input and when I actually find out exactly what went wrong with the carb, I'll let it be known. Todd
Posted on: 7/25/2008 9:42 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7772670

RE: Ryobi 31 cc dying after 12 minute run
clunk line to carb., vent line out of tank with one wrap around tank and exit out of bottom of fuse. The fill line (3rd.) line is opposite of the vent line in that it is brass tubing that immediately curves downward inside the tank to just of the bottom of the tank floor. It can't interfere with the tank line this way and simply tip plane forward onto nose cowl to completely empty the tank. All lines are not blocked in the least amount and when pressure tested, hold for as long as one wants. This craft with this configuration has flown many hours before starting to act this way. I'm going to go out immediately to the shop and work on some projects. I will recheck everything I have stated here and rerun the engine till it either acts up or flys right. Sorry, I couldn't resist. [:D] I'll check back in this evening and if there is any change, I'll let everyone know. I really appreciate everyones help with this. Todd
Posted on: 7/25/2008 4:04 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7771661

RE: Ryobi 31 cc dying after 12 minute run
I really think it is in the carb. or backplate assembly. I don't have a floor in the cockpit and I am using the clear yellow tygon tubing for the fuel line. When it acts up, you can see the fuel draining back into the tank. Actual "large" air bubbles headed back to the tank just like if you were opening a petcock at the carb. If you choke the engine fully it will sometimes draw hard enough to pull the fuel back up and run very poorly ( can't advance the throttle or open the choke back up or it will die). I've taken it apart and cleaned everything spotlessly including turning the reed valve over the one time I dismantled and rebuild the engine and back again the second time with no difference. It still ran very well till it got warm (usually around 12 or so minutes) then sputtered, quit, and wouldn't restart till it cooled down. I've been able to restart it within a couple of hours after it quit. Something is warping or failing once it gets warm but returns once it cools down. The thing is that it used to run very well (just like when you first start it now) all the time. I really appreciate all the input!! Thanks again, Todd
Posted on: 7/24/2008 5:07 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7768123

RE: Ryobi 31 cc dying after 12 minute run
I'm pretty sure that it isn't tank oriented. The vent line is definitely clear and functioning properly. After it gets warm and starts acting up, it draws air in at the carb and lets the fuel siphon back into the tank. It acts as if something is warping once it is warm allowing air in. With the exception of the front seal, the plastic back case and the joint where the carb screw on are the only two places to draw air. I'm pretty sure it isn't the back plate because it is well gasketed and has the aluminum mounting plate that fully covers and compresses the plastic plate to the aluminum case. I'm guessing that is is either in the carb or at the joint where it screws on. Why would it run like the proverbial striped *** ape for 12 or so minutes before acting up and when allowed to cool down, run well again repeating the whole process? Thanks guys, Todd
Posted on: 7/23/2008 1:48 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7763419

Ryobi 31 cc dying after 12 minute run
Hi everyone. I have a ryobi 31 cc that runs strong for about 12 or so minutes. It starts easy and transitions very smoothly with plenty of power. Here.s the problem: after about 12 or so minutes of running, it will falter like it is runing out of fuel for a few minutes then die. I have had to dead stick this thing a few times and you can tell when it is getting ready to die due to the faltering. Once it dies, I can't get it started again until it cools. If you try to start it when it is still warm, you can see that there is air in the fuel line and the carb will not pull the fuel back to the carb unless you fully choke it. Sometimes you can get it to run fully choked but there is no power obviously and as soon as you try to throttle up or open the choke it will die. I can either let it cool down or wait till the next day and it will start the whole scenario over again. It acts like it is letting air back through the carb. once the engine gets warm. Also, it didn't use to do this. I have flown around 4 or 5 hours of actual flying time before it started behaving this way. There are no holes or air leaks coming grom the tank on to the carb. Any help would GREATLY be appreciated. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 7/23/2008 9:00 AM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7762598

RE: GP 1/4 Scale Wagstaff Servos?
The DX7 is a 7 channel transmitter, the AR7000 is the 7 channel receiver to be used with that radio. The AR9000 is a 9 channel receiver and will only act as a 7 channel with that particular radio if I'm not mistaken. The AR7000 has more than enough channels to operate your aircraft. If you use your ailerons as flaperons you need to hook the right ail. servo into the Aux. 1 port and the left ail. into the ail. port on the receiver (check the DX7 manual for this, I may have it backwards) Then, your 3 pos. flap switch activates the ailerons as flaps and you can still use the ail. for their intended purpose. This will take a little programming. This is not exactly the same as true flaps and doesn't lend to the stability part that true flaps do. If you are altering the craft to have both tru flaps and ailerons, then hook up the flaps into the aux 1 port and the ailerons into the ail port.
Posted on: 6/29/2008 5:37 PM by Author "rtstestpilot" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7675076