RE: CEN CUSTERMER SERVICE
Taj, Are you talking about the red anodized braces? If you have the red anodized braces, then unfortunately they are not a direct bolt on to the truggy. You can still attach them to the chassis though. Here are two ways I have done it. 1) First dremel off the raised edge on the bottom of the brace next to the where the screw threads in from the bottom of the chassis. 2) Notch the chassis for the raised edge and drill a hole through the chassis for the screw and one for the raised edge. This is the harder method, but it feels more solid to me. Otherwise, if it is another brace, I might need to see a pic to be able to help you out. :)
Posted on: 8/3/2007 5:17 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6193113

RE: WRC Rally Car
The body has a 300mm Wheelbase. So it's almost the same length as the old super nitro rs4 bodies (maybe an inch shorter) but it is about an inch wider. Please note I am assuming you are talking about the WRC Rally car with the NX chassis (blue) and not the CT5 Subaru Rally car.
Posted on: 8/2/2007 7:45 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6189306

RE: GST rumor
Oh, the rumors. how do these things get out??? [:D] As for pics, you'd have to ask the front office at CEN. HINT: If you want this truck in your hands sooner, let CEN know. I made my push. [:D] Just in case you got confused by my post **Dogman is correct. There is a leaner meaner MT in the works.**
Posted on: 8/2/2007 7:42 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6189292

RE: stripped Head
If it's the NX26, then I am afraid that the head button can't be replaced as the heatsink is still a one piece unit on that engine. The TR28, TR28 (SH Version), NX76, GST 7.7 engines all have a removeable head button. But the NX26, NX15, and NX18 (16 as well) these engines do not.
Posted on: 7/24/2007 12:36 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6150178

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
Dynamite has a peak charger that can charge your glow igniter, tx/rx battery packs all at the same time. About $40-50. The only problem with this model is that it is DC only. So you'll need to find a power supply. So the damage to my wallet was about $80 (50 for charger and 30 for power supply) not too bad for the convience it offers. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN4059 , the bad thing is, I don't know if they offer an AC/DC version yet... I bought one of the TX/RX trickle chargers( actually came with my JR Airplane Radio) and it just takes too long, I can't always remember to throw my TX/RX packs on the trickle charger the night before, so the relatively cheap cost was not enough to sway me from getting a peak charger.
Posted on: 7/10/2007 6:13 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6094668

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
Darkfire, Generally, from my experience, it's recommended that you break in the engine with the fuel you intend to run. Though some companies market a break in fuel, it really isn't necessary. If you want to run 30%, just start with 30% and run it from there. Though the fuel blend CEN recommends is 20%, you can run 30% safely in the stock .46 and 7.7 engines. Matt, any standard 5 cell (hump pack configuration) will fit, but it you're asking about a 6 cell (7.2volt) I would not recommend it. Some servos can take the increased voltage, (alot of hitecs are, esp the ones meant for robot wars/battlebots use, but most rc car duty servos, you could ruin the pots in the servo. In addition, depending on if the voltage regulator in the receiver, some can handle the extra voltage, some won't. As far as I know, the Skyion RX is not meant to handle over a 5 cell RX pack. For servos, in my Nemesis I have a Hitec 5955TG and it came a nice looking blue anodized servo horn(over 300 oz of torque!). In my GST I have one of the ACE DS1015. The Ace is a beefy looking servo, but it comes with a crappy servo arm that strips out all the time. Had to replace that arm with a aluminum servo arm from Racer's Edge. For throttle, I still use the stock servos on both trucks.
Posted on: 7/10/2007 12:18 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6093219

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
Thanks for posting the pic Dogman. I am still digging that bracket that you made to hold the brake arm. Very trick indeed!! And Matt if you decide to lock the diff, as Dogman said, you can eliminate one of the brakes, as when the center diff is locked, you can't set the brake bias. The pic Dogman posted is of the fuel tubing replacement I was talking about. Thanks to his picture I hope everything is much clearer to you about what I was trying to say. Let me know how it goes Matt. Darkfire, Get the truck and burn some nitro! There are quite a few excellent CEN supporters here that would be more than willing to help you out if run into some bumps while running your GST.
Posted on: 7/10/2007 10:19 AM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6092800

RE: what CEN vehicle should I purchase next
Out here in CA, the pan cars are now all either dirt oval cars or just oval cars. Alot of the guys are making some of the 1/8th scale off road buggies into dirt oval cars. It's kinda cool actually when you see these converted buggies speeding around. I still remember those 3 shock T-Bar setup RC10L, pretty cool setup with the saddle pack batteries and foam tires. If you get a TR, you could get a set of buggy arms and driveshafts, turnbuckles, and a rally body and turn it into a giant rally car! Kyosho Inferno GT Killer!!
Posted on: 7/10/2007 10:15 AM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6092790

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
I don't directly work for CEN. But yes, this is the same simon that was helping you out with your truck. I work for the government. But I help out at CEN when I can. Oops, I just re-read your post, the setscrew I was talking about wasn't the one with the arm, the one I was talking about was the little collar closer to the servo arm. But you are correct, that by lengthening that arm you will get more torque.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:43 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090166

RE: what CEN vehicle should I purchase next
Ryan at customrc is a cool guy. Dealt with him a few times.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:36 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090155

RE: upgradeing ct5
Bounty, Usually the allen screws that go through the engine mount are 3mm screws. Are you sure you didn't get a 3.5mm screw? (GST engine mount uses this size screw and a few other 1/8th scales do too). If it is a 3mm screw, what I have done in the past, was I carefully enlarged the crankcase mounting holes with a drill press to 3mm to clear the screw properly. I had to do this to one of my piccos before. Most engines have the same size clearance holes cut out for the engine mounts, but sometimes, some are a little tighter.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:34 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090140

RE: what CEN vehicle should I purchase next
Are you talking about the Evo3? Yah, the evo3 only has the C-Hub style suspension and for most on-road cars, the pillowball design(CT-5, Mugen, Serpent) is preferred. The HPI is a nice little car though, my buddy got one right before I got back into RC. Funny thing is, a week later, I got back into RC and got a Nemesis and starting smoking him around his driveway. If you decide to go the CT-5 route, my personal favorite body for that car is the subaru. I also happen to like the Subaru rally NX. Been thinking about getting one of those as well. lol. Never enough $$, but too many cars to choose from in this hobby.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:27 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090113

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
Matt, You can go ahead and try the fuel tubing if you find that the springs are not providing enough stopping power. I cut about a 1/4" piece or 1/3" piece. There's term in the engineering world, I just TLAR'ed it. (That Looks About Right) Also you can readjust the little collars that hold the springs in place. Sometimes as time goes by the collars may slide a little bit and cause a little loss in the brake throw (servo throw). Let me know if you are not sure about what I am talking about. I know trying to describe these sort of things on the net can be like the guiding someone in the dark. It's always easier with pics. Also are you now using a rechargeable RX pack? I don't remember if you had one or not.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:21 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090073

RE: upgradeing ct5
You need the cen CT4-R ones, they are also option ones for the CT-5. Let me get the part number for you. It is CTS-09 [image]http://www.cenracing.com/cars/ct5/pic/cts09.jpg[/image] They are sliding mounts so you have a little more room to work with to fit different engines.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:16 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090057

RE: what CEN vehicle should I purchase next
Wait the person that had the novarossi engine was Blackrain and he had a Nemesis and did the .28 conversion like me. My mistake. Relax bud, I never said you were starting out. I said if you wanted to get another vehicle up and running fast, of course it's easier to start with an RTR, since you don't have to get the servos, RX, and an engine. The CT5, yes it's fast already, but with the .21 conversion the car accelerates even quicker due to the big bore engine. The conversion kit is not that expensive by the way $20 if I recall correctly. Just check on New Era Models website. Just for the record CT5 doesn't go 70mph straight out of the box, you have to change the pulleys to the top speed pulleys that are included in the box. The car comes stock with the acceleration gearing. I have worked on enough CT5s to know what they are like. And, yes, I too have many vehicles but it's not always fun having to hijack servos from one car just to run another. I like to install everything in my cars and leave only the RX and RX pack as the only things I have to change between vehicles to run them... I made the suggestion to you about getting the Matrix Arena RTR, because if you don't have tires, wheels, body, engine and pipe for the TR kit, then the first step to that kit maybe steeper than what you would want to spend. An decent engine and pipe combo can already set you back $150+ By the way when you get a chance, try a novarossi. You can then see why they are the choice of many racers (non sponsored drivers and sponsored drivers included). :) I never said you were a rookie..... If you took my words as calling you a rookie, then my apologies, but belive me I know you been posting on the CEN forum here at RCU for a while. It's that your avatar reminded me of blackrains and I that's what made me confuse you two.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 7:10 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6090017

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
Matt, From my experience it's not necessarily the metal discs becoming very rough that causes the binding. More it's related to the metal calipers (black ones) getting bent or the little metal black bracket that holds the calipers getting worn that causes the binding. In extreme cases I have seen people that drive alot cause some wear into the ball shaped diff output shaft in the center diff to form two grooves where the brake dics ride, but from my experience and seeing the ones that had this, it didn't bind the brakes, rather it just reduced the effective strength of the brakes. On my own trucks I found it more beneficial to have the two silver discs get a rougher finish to them as this allowed for increased stopping power. The calipers themselves don't get too much wear, rather the discs see a majority of the wear. Also I have dialed out a lot of the rear brake on my Nemesis as this makes it much easier to control the truck in the air. In the past I ran without the front brake, but when jumping I found that I could have really used the front brake to get the nose of the truck down. For a little more braking power, you can also change the springs on the brake linkage and replace them with fuel tubing. I like the more positive feel the fuel tubing offers when you brake over the springs. If anyone else on this thread has brake questions or setup tips regarding this, feel free to post your experiences or questions. Simon
Posted on: 7/9/2007 6:54 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6089963

RE: GST. Should I or Not?
burningpoo, if your front brakes are locking up, check the little black metal plates that touch the brake discs. Usually I have seen that in some hard crashes, it's these little plates that bend and cause the brakes to bind. As dogman said, the GST is not an entry level truck. It does take a little bit of rc know how to maintain the truck. But that's not to say it's a bad truck, or a difficult truck to work on. The GST features much more parts than other trucks in its class. I have a GST and a Nemesis and I wouldn't trade'em for any other monster truck on the market.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 4:38 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6089373

RE: upgradeing ct5
For the CT5 the belts do affect the speed. Just not in a direct way. The pulleys are to be changed when you change the belts. The optional pulley set in the box offers increased top speed at the expense of acceleration. (gears the car taller which more top speed). The pulleys change the overall gear ratio, the belts are just a way of transferring the power like the universals on a shaft driven car. The stock belts and pulleys gear the car lower ( ie more acceleration). The optional belts in the car will fit the stock pulleys, but they will skip and you will end up with a car that doesn't go... As for the turbo 2.5, unfortunately that motor is now discontinued. Some motors you can use are the Novarossi CX15 (this is a big block .15). The big block .15s were the motors meant for the original 1/10 scale on road cars, such as the serpents, piccos, and bmts, if anybody else recalls these cars. You can also pick up the optional CEN Engine mounts meant for standard .12-.18 engines and you could fit an OS .18 TZ rear exhaust engine or any of the other small block .12-.18s for an upgrade.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 4:34 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6089356

RE: OFNA starter box? 10249
I second what magbarn says. I actually bought two of the OFNA 10244 boxes. The only box I would get other those ofnas one are the mugen grey anodized ones. But the mugen boxes are so overpriced $100+ while the OFNA is only about 70-80 depending on where you shop.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 4:24 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6089320

RE: what CEN vehicle should I purchase next
Soilwork, Here are my suggestions, If you want a CT5, get one and a .21 conversion kit from New Era for a torque monster street car. If I recall correctly you're a Novarossi fan like myself, and I think if you could get a hold of a high rpm .21 like a P5X or the newer 7 port novas, you'd have a rocket. I'd actually recommend one of the off road engines in the on road car, because I find that if I am not strictly racing on road (like 1/8th scales or 1/10 scale touring) the larger heatsink of the off road motors will be more benficial in the long run in terms of engine life. If you still want to play in the dirt, get a Matrix TR RTR, since it's a little cheaper to start out with if you want to just get up and running ASAP. But I am a kit person myself.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 4:22 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6089314

RE: MATRIX RTR and which STARTER BOX?
Starter box is a worthwhile investment. It can always be configured to work with most of the other RC Cars you have now or plan to get later. My personal choice for a box is the ofna twin 775 motor one that runs on 2 6 cell stick packs. Part number 10244 [image]http://www.ofna.com/images/accessories/st-sb-10244-big.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 7/9/2007 12:15 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6088359

RE: compatible cvds
Dustin is correct. The Talon Buggy uses the .66 universals, whereas the Premier 4, MT2, Magnum NX all use the .88 universals. You can also use the universals in the rear of the car to get rid of the dogbones if you like. Not a real huge performance gain in changing in the rear dogbones out to universals, but I like to have universals front and rear of a car.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 12:06 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6088335

RE: Matrix TR FRE pitch?
It's a 1/8th metric pitch( same as mugen, ofna, kyosho). Unfortunately I am not too sure on how metric pitches are rated. It is not like the standard 32,48,64 pitch that we have here in the states. (Where a 32 pitch, 32 tooth pinion is one inch in diameter, 48 teeth, one inch diameter gear = 48 pitch,etc). Hope this helps.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 12:02 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6088319

RE: Truggy clutch help
Clermont, this is Simon. Glad to hear that the flywheel did indeed turn out to be the culprit. I figured since you had already changed shoes, springs, bearings, the pins on the flywheel were defective. I have actually seen on my old flywheels, they would sometimes take a bend thus, this lead me to belive that maybe your flywheel did the same thing and was causing the clutch to engage improperly. Let us know if you have any other questions. Dogman is always of great help, (much appreciated Doug!) and there is always the CEN office if you can't ahold of us here online.
Posted on: 6/20/2007 12:35 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6011900

RE: CEN GST 7.7 noob questions
Hi All, The list compiled by the people posting above is a very good one. It has most of the accesories that will get you started into Nitro RC. For the GST 7.7 Glowplugs: Recommended plugs OS #8 or CEN #3,or #4. Failsafe: GST comes with throttle return spring. Doesn't rely on battery voltage to return carb to closed. With a failsafe(electronic) there is still a minimum voltage it needs to operate (4 Volts). If your receiver pack drops below this voltage theres no power to return your servo to neutral let alone power the failsafe. Blue loctite would be a great thing to have in your pit box. Anytime you have nitro car, threadlock is must! The stock air filter is fine on the GST. Just be sure to replace the foam element when it gets really dirty. (Make sure the replacement foam is oiled too!) A receiver pack is def a good upgrade. A 5 cell hump pack (3 cells on bottom 2 on top) would fit the battery box best. And then a charger for the RX pack. 20% sidewinder is good fuel. Though CEN recommends Byron's and that is my fuel of choice. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: If you do use after run oil, please make sure you spin the engine over a few times. Either by pulling the pull start a few cranks or by blipping the engine with the rotostart wand. The reason for this is that I have seen a few engines where the hobbyist just put a few drops of after run oil down the cylinder head and then they let the engine sit for a week and the oil gums up and the engine can't be cranked over until the gunk is removed from the piston sleeve with denatured alchohol.
Posted on: 5/22/2007 2:37 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5887353

RE: Cen Arena Matrix or the GS XUS ???????
The blue piece is just a random body mount. I believe its a MSR one. As for the hubs, there the KMW ones if I recall. I think Andy was only using them because thats what was laying around the shop and the KMW is cool because one of the hubs is reverse threaded to keep the wheel nut from coming off in a long main. But I haven't had a stock wheel nut come loose as long as it was tight and sometimes for a little more security I will use some shoe goo on the threads. The shoe goo lets you still remove the wheel nut but won't come loose at all.
Posted on: 5/3/2007 5:59 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5807210

RE: Broke another rear diff bevel gear shaft
Yes, it is true that you need the Nemesis Bulkheads, but on some of the latest GSTs they have the Nemesis bulkhead that has a green anodized spacer that takes up the extra space. So if you buy the Nemesis diff conversion, you will end up having spare bulkheads, always nice to have spares! :) But as for the diff shaft shearing. Sometimes I seen people not properly adjusting the gear mesh of the internal bevel gears and this cause the broken outdrive as well. What I mean by this is if you reassemble the diff, rotate the outdrive and see if the diff is gritty or if it is fairly easy to turn. If the diff is really hard to turn, then two things might have to be done. First check to make sure the metal plate that holds the smaller bevel gears is properly seated in the slot, if that is fine and you still find the diff too hard to turn, then you might want to add one of the thin metal shim (GS221) between the diff case cover (GS060) and the Gasket. Let us know how this works out for you if decide not to get the Nemesis diff upgrade. But I recommend the Nemesis diff upgrade for an ultra strong driveline.
Posted on: 4/26/2007 2:11 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5773763

RE: Best receiver pack for the GST 7.7
I agree that the 5 cell hump pack (3 cells on bottom with 2 cells on top) is the best fit for the GST battery box. Anything above 1400 mah would be a good investment as this provides plenty of run time before having to recharge the pack. The only thing I might want to try later is a Lipo conversion, but that's a little costlier investment considering I'd have to get a new charger that can handle lipos and a 6V voltage regulator as lipo packs (2 cell ones) put out 7.4Volts.
Posted on: 4/14/2007 12:09 AM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5712699

RE: Matrix / Genesis tyres
If you do try to mount the huge monster truck tires onto the truggy you run the risk of killing clutches. I have not tried it, but I would highly recommend against it. In my opinion Monster Truck tires belong on a MT not on a truggy. And as blitz mentioned I am not sure if you would get enough steering. But you might, as the stock Nemesis and Genesis/GST rims all feature about a 1/2" offset, so this may be enough in theory to fit. Again, I would NOT recommend actually trying to run the TR Arena with the Monster Truck tires.
Posted on: 4/14/2007 12:01 AM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5712662

RE: my nemesis weight
Hey Blackrain, I am not positive, but I do believe the output shafts for the genesis GS039 are a much smaller than the GS208 output shafts. The inner diameter of the bearing is a 12mm for the Nemesis Differentials (page 05 of the Nemesis manual), whereas the Genesis/GST ones are the 8mm inner diameter bearing(also on page 05 of the GST manual). To do the conversion I think you will need the GS060 Diff case cover for the smaller ID bearing, and then GS006 the spur gear for the smaller bearing. You might want to check the manual as I could be wrong.
Posted on: 4/9/2007 10:51 PM by Author "s5lin" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5691659