RE: Minnflyer (AKA Mike Buzzeo) has unexpectedly passed away
I am deeply saddened about this loss. It was always a pleasure to read what Mike had to say.
Posted on: 4/29/2012 4:23 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11061630

RE: try to rebuild this!!
Ahhh...The well displayed "Yard Sale"! Stuff happens, I have had my share of these too!
Posted on: 3/10/2012 6:43 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10994782

RE: My first crash - H-9 Cherokee 40
Although the Cherokee can perform aerobatics, it is NOT [i]designed[/i] for a hard or 3D Style maneuver! From the photos, I see a very clean break on a wing that had minimal strength for Scale type flight and mild aerobatics. Wing Leading edge, Main spar, and trailing edge dihedral braces, with, fiberglass center section enforcement will make a wing center section very solid as a unit. These braces are made from quality grade Plywood, and extend outward from center at least beyond two rib's, better three, on each side! This is for plenty/extra strength, your Cherokee will do fine with the above suggested repairs! Good Luck!
Posted on: 2/20/2012 8:24 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10967406

RE: Crash cessna 182 hangar 9 66'
I suggest trying to find all the pieces, even if you have to go through the trash bin! After crashing, I toss it all out...but...after, I wind up going through the trash like a raccoon to find [i]every[/i] piece. It is a big help to get new parts made.
Posted on: 1/16/2012 4:07 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10912242

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
Sorry I cant be of any help about those two coverings you mentioned, I have not yet used either one. It will be worthwhile to research various covering materials, and find out about [i]how much[/i] a covering will shrink. This is in reference/comparison to Monokote, which I used and it shrunk with such force that it actually pulled on the lightweight fuselage framework! Monokote was used mainly because I had plenty of Black Color in stock! (Cheap-Cheap!) The framework of the wing, stab, vertical fin, elevator, and rudder is robust enough to handle the shrink power of Monokote. No so with the fuselage! It's also worthwhile to measure the areas to be covered, and compare these figures with the supplied [i]roll size[/i] of the covering of your interest . For example, according to dimensions of the wing Four rolls of Monokote are required! (or...one 25' roll. This covers the wing and extra for some other airframe parts.)
Posted on: 1/6/2012 6:46 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10895521

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
The TT engine is Ringed and was taking plenty time to break in. At first, Idle RPM for landing was undependable/hit and miss/dead stick-ish, so I upped the prop to the 13x6 for flywheel effect and ran 30% cool power. Unfortunately for me last years work load left little time for flying, so, since the above combination of prop and fuel was working, I let it ride so when I did get to the field I could fly! I cant provide as of yet any technical data about the engines output, however, it performs extremely well now and seems to power this particular aircraft in a most enjoyable way! Keep in mind...Both side's of the fuselage [i]forward of the cabin[/i], (cabin is constructed as a rectangular box) has to be "Bent" inward/together which will squeeze/hold your pre-made motor mount in place. The more you shorten this area, the more difficult it will be to bend.
Posted on: 1/1/2012 11:33 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10886196

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
Thanks for the kind words! No idea about the RPM. Actually, After the airframe is complete and still uncovered (motor mount insert temporarily assembled & located), servos and receiver temporarily positioned at approximate final locations, you can get the approximate weight needed up front so that by adjusting the battery location, ballast will not be needed to obtain the proper CG. The TT 54 provided this correct amount of weight, that is why it was chosen! My gut (which has been expanding constantly from Thanksgiving) tells me that allowing the wing to "wiggle" might be a good thing! The fuselage is basically square stick balsa, like an exploded size Guillow's kit, and is really not robust at all in the cabin area. Would the added weight of reinforcing the mounting areas be worth it? Keep us posted!
Posted on: 12/31/2011 12:30 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10884798

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
One example: The Thunder Tiger Four Stroke 54 works well! I used a 13x6 k series prop for two reasons A) The way the plane "chuggs" along and B) Roars of Laughter from other members when[i] they see[/i] the plane chugging along! Cool Power 30% (with a Splash of Pure Castor Oil added) Finding a rubber band to hold the wing took some time. You can always tie some together, but I like to use pre-made. Size 10A ( 10"x3/16"x3/64" ) does the trick! http://www.dykemarubberband.com/index.php or...since they come by the pound, I would be more than happy to send you both enough to get in the air if you wish. (PM an address)
Posted on: 12/27/2011 9:01 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10878002

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
This kit was given to me by a senior club member whose health was other than comforting to him. He said: "Here Tony...you build it and we'll fly it!" Done Deal! After all that he has done for his fellow modelers, it was the least I could do! Kit started in March, finished in July. Wanted to get it airborne ASAP, hence the quick monokote covering, of which I beg everyone for forgiveness! The fuselage rigidity is so strong after primary squaring & assembly (motor mount NOT installed at this time), that I had to soak the nose end until it became pliable(use waterproof glue). Then you can install your pre-made engine mount. Since the Firewall is balsa, I beefed up everywhere I could around it with lightweight triangular stock of various sizes. Other lightweight balsa pieces were added at various places to provide a secure surface for the covering material.
Posted on: 12/18/2011 7:20 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864811

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
From the moment you surrender to the fact that you have to build this plane from your own known building method's and techniques...thing's will move along smoothly! The plans and instructions are for general reference only. The finished product will be a very fine performing aircraft! 1/32" plywood sheet was used top and bottom of a solid balsa piece to make a firm sandwich of material on which to mount the elevator control horn. (Nylon horn thru-bolted into a nylon mounting base) Have you built the wing?
Posted on: 12/17/2011 4:27 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864090

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
Instead of the two inner most ribs, I used a couple (top and bottom) of regular grain (for weight) 1/2x1/4"sticks. 1/16" sheeting was added between these strips and the next outer ribs for strength. True, the airfoil has been flattened where rudder meets the fuselage, but it sure does not show any problem in RC flight! You can sand the daylight's out of the structure in this area to remove protruding material, and have a sturdy, flat area to mount the rudder. Extra added weight was negligible. Remember to mount the rudder aft enough of the fuselage end to allow room for the elevator half joiner. Each and every step of this model required much thought and major adaptation.
Posted on: 12/17/2011 12:19 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10863793

RE: Quaker 84 Penn Valley Hobbies
One method of assembly: The ribs go on top of the main(middle) spar, and the trailing edge(rear spar). At the Leading edge(front spar), the top and bottom ribs come together and sit INSIDE the leading edge and flush with the top and bottom of the leading edge. ALL spar areas are then brought up flush with the rib surfaces via many strips (1/8x1/4 if I remember correct). Incidence: The wing saddle got built over the plans, and the Horizontal Stab (saddle)was adjusted so that the Stab was in line with the wing. Zero Incidence. The motor mount was installed with a relationship to the Wing and Stab of about 2 to 3 degrees of downthrust. A few degrees of right thrust was also established in the motor mount. Do not know if this is the "correct" way to assemble this plane(knowing myself, most probably NOT)...BUT...It worked out well and flies like a dream! I hope this has been of some help!
Posted on: 12/13/2011 2:07 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10857896

RE: Vintage builders - which type of glue?
Ambroid and Testers user! Still use Ambroid! Mix a puddle of Ambroid with a scoop of Microballoon's for a light weight filler!
Posted on: 10/22/2011 6:41 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10778088

RE: Newbie T-Maxx 3.3 Owner
More information here if you search: Traxxas> Products> Nitro> Tmaxx3.3 (#4907)> Downloads> Manual
Posted on: 10/22/2011 5:28 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10777976

RE: Do you still remember your first rc helicopter?which brand?
Kavan Jet Ranger 1974 Way over my head![:)] Webra Speed 61, Kraft radio(non computer) no gyro [8|] Took about 6 months to build. After about another month, I got it to hover. After hovering several times over a few weeks, I proclaimed myself a "Heli Pilot"! First Flight: From hover, decided to take her for a spin around the field. I gave slight forward cyclic, and goosed the power. To witness this scale model tilting forward and flying off was a grand and glorious sight to behold! Not to far down field, it was time to turn and bring her around. As a right turn was initiated, the tail sunk a bit low & right. [b]Rudder Stick to the Left[/b] was the ensuing input to bring the tail around...BUT...you [i]know[/i] what that input did! So...it was her first and last flight! No process truer that I have since allowed to become habit ...Fly off the nose!
Posted on: 8/4/2011 6:00 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10654700

RE: Nitro vs. Electric
Just like nirto, the "sky is the limit" with electrics. Tons of variations available, so for sure, you can devise a good working system for any aircraft you choose! One suggestion is to learn about charging, chargers & batteries along with all the [b]safe[/b] handling practices involved. No "messin' around" here![;)]
Posted on: 8/4/2011 5:28 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10654659

RE: Fuel and overheating
IMO ALL engines need to be broken in. During this process a tremendous amount of friction creates heat. Lubrication and TIME will prevent damage. I take plenty time to break in an engine. Also, I add castor oil to the fuel. There is not any calculated or formulated amount of time for break in, the engine "tells me" when it's broken in via a distinct change of sound and performance.
Posted on: 7/7/2011 7:05 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10610988

RE: Fuel proof glue/epoxy?
JB Weld just might do the trick! Great stuff when used as directed. I dont know what the pros use now, but I started using JB years ago to hold clutch lining's in place on Helis. Clean both surfaces completely free of any oils, add the JB, clamp the tank halves together tight and leave it alone for at least two days.
Posted on: 6/5/2011 4:15 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10558354

RE: servo mounting
Yep...a picture will indeed be a great help!
Posted on: 5/9/2011 7:43 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10511159

RE: servo mounting
IMO, balsa is not strong enough for servo mounting! If you have to start from scratch with the servo mounting, 1/8 ply will do the job, as mentioned above. Make "rails" from square hardwood (not balsa) and epoxy them to the fuselage sides. Then make your new servo tray from the 1/8 ply and either epoxy or screw it down onto the rails. If you are going to use screws, drill pilot holes and lube the screws with bar soap, to keep the wood (rail) from splitting. Just a suggestion on one method of servo tray installation.
Posted on: 5/8/2011 5:32 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10508864

RE: Experiencing my first glitch
At my place of work during wintertime , I fly on 72 with a cell tower literally right behind my back. Never a problem! As suggested, cover the basics. Make sure the RX crystal is planted firm ( I always wrap a piece of electrical tape around the rx to make sure the crystal stays put). RX wrapped (not excessively tight ) in 1/2" hobby/rc foam. TX antenna screwed down tight. Battery condition. Switch harness condition. (Infamous cause of problems, not an item to skimp on) Engine condition. Bad bearings/worn internal parts generate all kinds of electromotive force. Any metal-to-metal contact. This can cause interference as well. Ground/Range test. Engine off and engine running. Flying site. Whats happening around you.
Posted on: 4/30/2011 6:25 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10493708

RE: Need advice
That is a very critical area which is subjected to forces quite high in magnitude IMHO. After a through cleaning, I would span the fault line with ,say, a 3/4" wide piece of lightweight glass cloth. Epoxy ( 30 Minute/Slow Dry/2-Ton) used as the bonding agent. Even though extra work(and weight) might be needed to get correct balance, I would prefer to repair it this way as opposed to just a glue join.
Posted on: 4/30/2011 6:02 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10493663

RE: What was the name of that glue???
Ambroid was developed for Canoe repairs. It's worth a "Google", with quite an interesting history! One use: Mix it with balsa dust for a lightweight filler. Using Ambroid, I built the Dynaflite PT-19, 80" Quaker, and a billion others...I like it! Also, you can use it to tell if others are still [i]alive[/i] in the house...Just twist open the cap, and if you don't hear bellowing within a few seconds from the far ends of the house...better go have a look-see!
Posted on: 4/23/2011 1:25 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10480505

RE: Sr. Falcon
Good Flying Plane!!! Same holds true off water and snow! Early Kit version I had a 60 on it, and the new ARF flew fine with an OS FX46 (sport flying).
Posted on: 4/6/2011 6:09 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10447718

RE: School Boy Wing Center Section
I hope you get replies from more experienced builders like BobHH. Although I have read documents regarding the fact that epoxy is NOT to be thinned...I have thinned it in the past exclusively for application of wing center section enforcing tape. A cap full or two of Aerogloss dope thinner mixed with 30 minute epoxy changed it's viscosity just enough so that is was easy to apply the tape with, and could be worked into and fill the weave. It cured properly, which was a key point. There are other thinners which can be used as well for epoxy. "Finishing Resin" arrives thinner right out of the bottle than standard epoxy. This can be used to make a super clean and neat job, probably lighter too. I used this once, and although the end result was very clean and smooth, IMO it is not a good replacement for 30 minute epoxy where strength is a must for larger aircraft. I was going to use Ambroid, but after trying it on a test strip, finally went with Titebond.
Posted on: 3/24/2011 7:55 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10420986

RE: School Boy Wing Center Section
Soldering iron worked well for trimming down 2 1/2" nylon tape! Thanks again BobHH!
Posted on: 3/24/2011 5:27 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10420683

RE: School Boy Wing Center Section
Thats a sweet looking model you built Bob HH! 3/4" tape with glue sounds good to me! Thanks! If I do what I normally do on a center section, it will probably come out weighing more than the plane itself! This is why I need your input!
Posted on: 3/23/2011 5:27 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10418626

RE: Engine Problem
IMO, it's a vibration issue which does not show at first, due to a full tank. After some time, the fuel level lowers to a point at which the still present vibration causes excess leaning of the mixture, which leads to power loss/engine quit. For starters, try a different prop, and if you are running a spinner, make sure it is in good shape and spinning true. Good Luck! PS: I have seen a tank foam up, like a Maytag clothes washer, due to bad engine bearings!
Posted on: 3/23/2011 5:20 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10418607

School Boy Wing Center Section
Gentlemen, I need suggestions regarding a light-weight type reinforcing, of the butt-joined wing halves on the School Boy. My plans are to install an Ace rudder only pulse system. The total weight of all the components required is quite more than a modern configuration with, for example, a microstamp rx and a micro cox servo. This is why my gut says to reinforce the wing center section joint. As always, input from this community is greatly appreciated! Tony T. (Safe T Wire)
Posted on: 3/23/2011 5:01 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10418569

RE: DC-3 Love
I wonder if a company had the courage to re-tool and build them brand new...it they would be utilized again!
Posted on: 3/16/2011 7:36 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10404958