RE: NEXUS V. CONCEPT 30
I still fly both of them on occasion. IMO, plenty depends on your style of flying, and what you expect [i]from[/i] your heli. If I remember right...very few, if any, parts are interchangeable. Parts can be obtained although hard to find and for example, you might have to buy another "complete" heli for one specific item. They can actually be more costly than a newer model. These two helis are of the historic, nostalgia type and not at all suggested for beginners, mainly due to repair/upkeep issues. The above posts tell it like it is! I also fly a Rappy V2. Turn around time from bad crash to back in the air is slowed basically by how much you are willing to pay for shipping the parts!
Posted on: 11/20/2009 10:09 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Kyosho Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268887

RE: Fin replacement
You might want to take a real close look at the fuselage where it meets the tail section. This area acted as the leverage point for the forces that damaged the fin.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 9:38 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268811

RE: Memories of Dad...
I just lost my Dad on the 12th at age 89. He was a modeler as was his brother. They ran a small hobby shop in Mount Vernon, NY called Zephyr's in the 1940's till early 50's. Free flight, Control Line and Hand Launch Gliders were their mainstay at that time. I remember them taking me and my cousins to Van Cortlandt Park one hot summer day. My uncle, who was over 6 feet tall, ran a few steps and hurled a glider straight up so high, us kids laughed hard. Well trimmed and with a built in turn, it slowly descended in a wide circle. As it lowered to the altitude that me and my cousins knew it was time to start running after it, with hopes of being the one to catch it...a Thermal grabbed it instead! I still remember the feeling that came over me as I watched that glider circle around and around while maintaining it's altitude! I was totally awed! I knew something was going on, but had not one clue as to what! This was my introduction to the intrigue of the laws of flight! Listening to my Dad and His brother talk, we came to understand just how brilliant and loving these men were. During WWII My Dad worked for Ranger Aircraft Engines. There, he worked on a research and development team that performed wind tunnel tests on the PT-19. The inverted 6 cylinder in-line engine's had an overheating problem as the front most cylinder ran the hottest! There they designed/improved the inter-cylinder cooling baffles. A couple of photos: My father with a Free Flight from the 40's. The other with his brother holding the Dynaflite pt-19 wing, which we built together! I too enjoyed reading all the stories here! Our dad's and our mentor's goodness will surely continue!
Posted on: 11/19/2009 10:42 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266576

RE: Covering undercamber secrets ?
AH1G 's method is exactly how I covered the undercambered wing on a Buzzard Bombshell using silk and dope. Same procedure, except pre-coating the airframe with several coats of thinned dope, then securing the covering in place by brushing through the covering with thinned dope again. Wait for it to dry, then move along as described. After the covering was all in place and the dope completely dry, I shrunk it with atomized water, then filled in the weave. The products available (mentioned above) to help adhere current iron on coverings do work! These products will add some weight, but it will be worth it if you can accept the extra weight. For interest or future information, weigh the frame before and after you apply the bonding agent.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 9:48 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266442

RE: A Dying Breed?
IMO, you can rest assured about the future of this hobby. It can be confusing with the coming and going of hobby shops, coming and going of AMA members and the business/monetary aspect of the industry...however...this all falls underneath the main ideal which of course is Modeling! We modelers are a tough breed, and loyal to the industry. I have fun with my nitro guzzling Giant SS, and if I am first to arrive at the field, I have fun with a hand launch Jetco Glider. I am an AMA member and always will be, because the AMA supports this hobby and in turn, I support the AMA!
Posted on: 11/15/2009 4:41 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255676

RE: Do you discharge LIPO befroe charging
Timmerica, Your question is answered above. Here is information on Nickel Cadmium Batteries if you are interested: http://sites.google.com/site/senthilvssc/Home/batteries/nickel-cadmium-battery (Read the "Limitations" toward the bottom of the page)
Posted on: 11/3/2009 7:41 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226161

RE: foamies
Welcome rccharles! I went to the 3dFoamy website, and it seems that they are still in business. Plenty of great information offered at that site! Best bet to get a sure answer is to send them an email: help@3DFoamy.com Good Luck!
Posted on: 11/3/2009 7:26 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226122

RE: engine mounting
Campgems...That's what I call a real "Yard Sale"! Here is a photo of sheetmetal screws holding a .61 in a Tiger 60. The screw length should have been such that three threads are showing [i]after[/i] final assembly and tightening. Note the clearance between the engine mount and crankcase. No problems to date. Drilling and tapping works well also. "Through Bolting" is the most secure method. I use a small flat washer between the head of any chosen fastener, and the engine mounting lug. No matter which type of fastener you choose, I recommend after a few flights, to check the fasteners for tightness, even though this might require removal of the spinner/prop/muffler/cowl, etc. Furthermore, every now and then before flying (and before starting the engine) I think it's good practice to grab hold of the engine and give it a test for mounting tightness/security. You might get surprised one day[8D]
Posted on: 11/1/2009 7:04 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220932

RE: engine mounting
"Through Mounting", where a bolt and nut are used, of course is the strongest/best method. (Duh) I thought the original poster was going to use screws, therefore I suggested a type of screw and method of installation which has worked well. If I [i]were[/i] a carpenter, I would apply a heavy bead of industrial grade, outdoor caulk type adhesive to the mounts...press the engine down firmly until the caulking oozed up, out and all over the mounts...nailed it home, then, flipped the plane over and bent the extended portion of the nails over with a claw hammer for redundant holding power! (Now that I think about it...somewhere, sometime...this just [i]might [/i]have been tried![:D])
Posted on: 11/1/2009 9:21 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219720

RE: engine mounting
Use the largest sheet metal screw (not a wood screw) that fits through the hole in the engine's mounting flange. A Phillips head instead of a Slotted head screw is a preferred choice for this application IMO(Along with a #2 Phillips screwdriver with a tip that's in good condition). Bring both mounts up to, but not touching, the crankcase. ANY clearance is good, and better than none. Hold the engine firmly to the mount, and mark the hole locations. A "scribe" can be made from bar stock or old piece of pushrod with a sharpened tip. Then, you can etch the hole location into the mount. Using a Center Punch, mark the hole's center location on the mount. (This keeps the drill bit from roaming, and allows the hole to be drilled where you want it) Drill a pilot hole. A pilot hole for the screw is created by using a drill size that is the same diameter(size) as the unthreaded shank of the mounting screw. You can begin by using a smaller drill bit like 1/16", then increase the size of the drill bit's until you reach the correct size needed for your pilot hole. In other words, the first time you drill, does not [i]have[/i] to be the final pilot hole size, you can work up to it. Clean out the holes of any drillings. Lubricate the screws with light grease. Assemble and tighten with confidence! Take your time. The combination of drilling straight (90 degrees to the mount), plus, the correct size pilot hole...yields a satisfactory result, even though your apprehension about not much material to work with is absolutely correct IMO! Good Luck!
Posted on: 10/31/2009 10:56 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218899

RE: How to install Blenderm hinge tape
goirish...Great hunting on a price for the tape! That's about what it's really worth per roll, imo. Now..please hunt-eth forth on a price for the UHU glue![;)]
Posted on: 10/24/2009 9:43 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199457

RE: How to install Blenderm hinge tape
Almost...you could call it bedding the tape down into the glue, however, it is actually more like applying a very thin layer of the glue to act as a binder between the foam and the tape, which augments the holding power of the tapes adhesive. You can seal the leading edge of the tape also, by spreading the glue along, then up over the edge. Is this process Overkill? Perhaps! I's like the Foamie's version of "Pinning" standard nylon hinges into place! (yes...I do that too) At the liteflight website's front page if you scroll down towards the bottom, you can see a picture of the now discontinued UHU creativ glue. There is mention about a current replacement. http://www.lightflite.com/
Posted on: 10/23/2009 7:49 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9196997

RE: How to install Blenderm hinge tape
I second what CGr says about the UHU Creativ Glue along with the Blenderm tape. For consideration about any future foamies, this combination really plants the tape down for good! I used it for hinges on an obscenely priced, high speed Multiplex foamie with excellent results. And, at my age and with fat fingers, I found making and installing these type of tape hinges to be quite the task. A good popsicle stick or strong flat wooden coffee stirrer is helpful for smoothing down the tape, as suggested above.
Posted on: 10/23/2009 8:13 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195521

RE: The Last Glue?
I will trade one "Brooklyn Bridge" for a bottle of the glue. [8D]
Posted on: 10/23/2009 6:57 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195420

RE: Band Saw or Scroll saw
I use a Craftsman scroll saw. And, you can make all those spinning "whirly-gigs" you see in yards[;)]
Posted on: 10/12/2009 9:59 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168229

RE: My Plane Attempted Suicide!
Cant get 'em back together much better than that! Nice Job!
Posted on: 10/12/2009 9:41 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168151

RE: Moon Flyby!
Great photo!
Posted on: 10/12/2009 9:31 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168113

RE: Madien of my GP Cherokee
Congrats on the maiden! Cherokee is one of my favorites too!
Posted on: 10/12/2009 9:30 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168104

RE: Broken Big Stik wing
Very interesting! Thinking back to the large batch mixed, I remember the mixture and container getting so hot it started to smoke. Had to bring the container outside until the "super nova" ran it's course! Thanks for the information!
Posted on: 10/12/2009 8:02 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166036

RE: Broken Big Stik wing
ppkk, Unless you plan to enter the model in a contest where appearance will earn you points...reinforce the center section! Remove the monokote back far enough to expose about 1/4" of bare wood outside the tape you choose. Mask off farther out where you don't want the epoxy to run. Bottom and top tape get done in one process, but it takes two steps...Do the bottom strip first, wrap up & over an inch or two LE and TEdge, cutting a bit to surround the mounting tab at LE and forget for now about the wing mount bolt holes at TE. (They can be cleaned out after) 30 minute epoxy allows plenty of time to do this job. About epoxy: I have done a some research and found in general, manufacturer's claim that epoxy is not to be thinned! However, I have been thinning it for years with dope thinner, and have had no problems. Go figure! Batch amount: One time, I estimated how much epoxy it will take to do the entire job then mixed the whole batch at once. The result was shortened cure time! Seems as if the curing process got accelerated when a large amount got mixed at once. Many use Finishing Resin, which is thinner than epoxy and the end result looks really good too. Search and find out more about it. You can paint the completed center section and not bother with monokote. If you cant match the red...paint it black, or another color to match other trim for example. The properly joined wing halves are more important than the final overall appearance IMHO.
Posted on: 10/11/2009 10:46 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163557

RE: Broken Big Stik wing
ppkk, Whey you are ready to join the wing halves together, apply the epoxy to wing roots as needed and, like you said; in between the tab's broken pieces. Use Wax paper on the completed tab assembly and clamp together. 30 Minute/slow cure epoxy is best for wing half joining. Allow a day to cure then file any excess epoxy away for a properly shaped mounting tab. Glass tape the center section to help prevent "wing folding". [;)] Plywood offered today on some of these planes reminds me of a ham sandwich! The middle ply material IMO has just enough body/strength to hold the outer sheets apart, allowing the finished product to be classified as plywood.
Posted on: 10/10/2009 10:47 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9162767

RE: Water flight a success
Nicely done Popriv! :) From the photos, it looked like all had a good day! And, of course, who would have thunk that your plane would float so well upside-down![:D]
Posted on: 10/4/2009 7:59 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9146560

RE: 1st attempt off water...
Of course some basics not to overlook: (According to the front view photo or youre plane) Make sure the floats are parallel to each other. (No Toe In or Toe Out as for wheel type gear.) Make sure they are standing vertical. (No Positive or Negative Camber as for wheel type gear) The GeeBee floats you have are the same type I used on a Sr. Falcon. They performed flawlessly! Further, I now recall that I did use the rear-most point of the step for mounting purposes, with regard to the airframe CG.
Posted on: 10/3/2009 5:16 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9144018

RE: 1st attempt off water...
If I remember correctly...The CG of your totally completed airplane (If possible test flown and trimmed out with standard landing gear)[i]without floats[/i] is to be determined first. Then, the step of the float gets positioned with regard to your airplanes determined CG. It's a two part process: 1)Balance the plane alone (floats off) and find CG. 2)Mount floats with their "step" positioned correctly in relation to the CG location determined from step#1.
Posted on: 10/3/2009 8:45 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143096

RE: 1st attempt off water...
Is the relation of the float step to the CG correct? I believe the float step is located about 1/2" behind the CG. Also, adding DOWN elevator on takeoff, gingerly and as needed, will help get the floats up on the step to "plane" on the water.
Posted on: 10/2/2009 10:51 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9142488

RE: Can't find employment, Ideas for self employment ?
Nobody said this was easy. Quite the contrary as a matter of fact. Not to worry...you can do it! :) My two sons were in a similar position, as are many others across the nation. Unless something falls right in your lap (not likely to happen), IMHO the best thing you can do for yourself is to get out there and make contact with other people. In this way, you shorten time to the least amount possible, in which you find something you really like to do! Turn this period of you life into an adventure, of which you can look back upon and think how glad you are about having gone through it!
Posted on: 10/1/2009 10:17 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9140072

RE: Can't find employment, Ideas for self employment ?
Then, until your job of choice happens...go and find [i]any[/i] job for now. You will have a positive cash flow (In!) You will feel "better" in general. And just as important...you will be in direct contact with people and the outside world where you greatly increase the chances of advancing toward your preferred line of work! Good Luck!
Posted on: 9/30/2009 6:13 AM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135189

RE: Bench running
Explain all about the engine and it's theory of operation to your subjects while it's [i]not[/i] running. Then...Have them all stand [i]behind[/i] the highly visible line you made on the floor 15 feet [i]behind[/i] the test stand. Run the engine (with correct size propeller and all factory mounting washers, propnut etc.) Of course this is after you have test run the engine, with no one around, to ensure it's safe operation and the rigidity of the test stand. I use nothing less than 3/4" thick [b]plywood[/b] for testing engines.
Posted on: 9/29/2009 9:20 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9134412

RE: *Hobbico Digital Voltmeter MkIII*
I believe a 1.2V nicad can be charged up to 1.4-1.5v. If you divide your 5.72 reading by 4, the 1.43v result is within limits. Your meter might be ok!
Posted on: 9/29/2009 9:04 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9134368

RE: Can't find employment, Ideas for self employment ?
Send flyers to all local businesses, including the biggest around, offering your services for software, network troubleshooting. My friend (who has trouble tying his shoes) started a business like this years ago. I accompanied him on a few jobs as his go-fer (coffee, sandwiches, etc) he did in NY City. Impressive offices with very distinguished looking management buzzing about...and NONE of them knew how to repair a glitch in their software!
Posted on: 9/29/2009 7:55 PM by Author "safeTwire" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9134173