RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Thanks, dude, As far as I know, the blue/yellow is scale.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 10:24 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268933

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Yo Scott, Yep, that's one of my other hobbies: Lionel and HO. Had the Lionel when I was 5. After the Panther, I've got four other projects: not likely to get them done this winter but they'll be there when I'm ready! I purchase the parts for each project over a period of time so that, virtually, everything is there at the beginning of the project.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:24 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266677

RE: ROBARTS ZIROLI 92
I'm virtually making it so it looks like it came just out of the factory as I enjoy looking at all the aluminum shine in the sky when I'm flying it and don't want to hide it.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:18 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266662

RE: ROBARTS ZIROLI 92
Next season, my aluminum plane will now have insignias and lettering. My decals from major decals just came in today. Initially, I was going to paint the insignias onto the surface but with all the rivets, I feared that the paint would seep under the masking tape so I opted for wet transfer decals. I figure that, using the softening agent solution, I can get the decals to recess into the rivets and panels lines.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 9:36 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266345

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Stuff: Had to do non-airplane stuff for today but the UPS man arrived. pic 1-3: My decals arrived from major decals: http://www.majordecals.com/ They are dry transfer (they call them pressure sensitive). After painting and the decals are applied, everything will be clear sealed. pic 4: I also got some stuff from Dick Bennett (B&B specialties). I got a 64 oz tank from him for the main fuel tank.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 9:00 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266337

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Yo Rich, thanks. That would be cool to reverse the servo: didn't see anything on Hitec's web site on it. ============ Fuse (cont) Gear (cont) Front gear resolved. I made up some more new wooden mounts and re-drilled them with the bolt holes closer to the inside edge of the mount so now that side mounted nipple can clear the mounts. pic 1: Now the nose wheel has a whole 1/8" to spare on missing the former. I also epoxied in the last two re-enforcement 6 ply formers. That was a long, slow process getting all those re-enforcement ply's cut up and installed. pic 2: The nose gear base is about a 1/4" past F-4 so the nose wheel will clear F-6. pic 3: Not much room between the F-4 former and the nose oleo in the down position. pic 4: rear mount assembly. pic 5: on her feet with all retracts functioning.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:43 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264168

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Fuse (cont) pic 1: F-9 cut from the 5 paper templates. pic 2-4: F-9 epoxied in. pic 5/6: I finally epoxied in FW-2 and FW-3 that I cut a few days ago. This completes the re-enforcement phase of the inner wing. pic 7-9: F-4 is not cut correctly as it is set up for a nose retract where the mechanical mechanism faces backwards (usual setup). The robart nose retract has the mechanical mechanism facing forward so a rectangular hole has to be cut in F-4.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:32 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263456

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
First time on her feet. Nose gear is just stuck on there.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:29 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263522

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Fuse (cont) pic 1: F-4 and F-5 are the last two pieces of ply that need to be re-enforced as this is the nose gear formers. I'm only re-enforcing the bottom half of each former. No lightening holes here since we'll have to add weight to the nose, anyway! I also made some new nose gear mounts that are 1/2" longer. Fortunately, I checked the gear in the UP position and the wheel just hits the F-6 former. Thus, I will be moving the gear so it slides under the F-4 former by about a 1/4". I will have to make two holes in the bottom of the fuse for removal of the nose gear. I figured this was the best solution since F-6 former is already in place and can't be moved back. pic 2: Part of the nose gear mount must have a notch cut into them to make room for the steering mechanism in the UP position. Pilot hole being drilled for #6 bolts. pic 3: Final hole drilled for the #6 bolt plus an 11/64" larger hole drilled a 1/4" deep so the blind nut can easily be seated. pic 4: Vise used to drive home the blind nut. pic 5: The nose gear to wood mounts is almost completed. pic 6: Problem: one of the air nipples comes out the side of the cylinder so I can't get the gear mounted onto the wooden mounts. Fortunately, I haven't glued anything in yet so I can figure out a solution. Well, on to the main gears! pic 7: The main gears have the same nipple sticking out the side but the wooden mounts are a little farther apart and it just makes it through the hole. (with air lines attached). I'll guess that I'll have to do the same on the nose gear wooden mounts. Strange that robart would have the nipple sticking out the side instead of the bottom/top! pic 8: Small 'C' clamp used to drive home the blind nuts. pic 9/10: Main gears installed.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 5:28 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263517

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) Flaps (cont) pic 1: Four straight pins used to transfer servo hatch dimensions to the outside, bottom surface. pic 2: Lines drawn to connect the pin holes and a razor saw to complete the job. pic 3-5: Servos installed. ========================= Fuse (cont) F-9 template cut to re-enforce the other end of the support for the gear and wings. I had to cut the template into five parts to get them to fit. pic 6/7: The bottom and top sides of F-9 were cut and put on the back of the original F-9. pic 8: The wing section of F-7 had to be put on the front of the original F-9 since the wing tube rests next to the back of F-9.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 11:51 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9261891

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) Sheeting (cont) pic 1/2/3: I finished sheeting the bottom of the wing from the main spar to the LE. First I put water on the one edge of the sheeting to help it curve to the LE of the wing before using carpenters glue, pins and clamps. Note: the two pieces of left over sheeting in the middle of the picture was used on the ailerons and flaps: I had to glue the two left over pieces together to be able to cover the flaps. pic 4/5: As mentioned, the ailerons and flaps are sheeted with the remaining sheeting from doing the wing. I ticked marked the far side of the aileron 2 1/4" from the LE and 4 3/8" from the far inside edge of the flap and drew a line between them. This is where I cut so both ailerons and flaps are perfectly even at the TE. pic 6: Dry fit. pic 7/8: Elmers, clamps and pins. pic 9: A nice narrow bead of glue between the sheeting and ribs tells me that I put on the correct amount of glue. pic 10-12: Using 120 grit glued to a paint stick, I sanded all edges and the seam between the two sheets meeting on the main spar on the wing. Note: Previously, I failed to mention that I hand sanded with 120 grit on the paint stick, all the joints on the glued up sheeting. No wood is uniform to another piece (let alone to itself either) so hand sanding must be done on a flat surface to get a nice blemish free surface. I use my fingers to feel the imperfections versus 'eye site'. Except where the two sheets meet on the solid sub-surface of the main spar, it would be difficult to sand all surface imperfections between the sheets after they are glued to the wing. As mentioned previously, I leave a gap in the sheeting where the wood is going to be cut. mmmm: I see that the web's software isn't working correctly for pictures. I'll re-post these again, later to get them to the correct size. 11-17-09: pictures re-downloaded.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 7:31 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258233

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) pic 1: wing to fuse check. Servos, mounts, hard points ,etc will be installed next before sheeting the top of the wing (although I could do the LE back to the main spar). pic 2/3: stab to fuse dry fit.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 7:27 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258240

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) Today, I set up the flap servos using 4/40 rod and heavy duty ball links and then figured out the dimensions for the servo tray. I figure that it's easier to use the receiver to get the servos adjusted while installing the servos so there will be little to adjust when the plane is completed. I'm using hitec 645's for the flaps (133 oz). A reverser is used since I'm aligning the servo arms to the flap control horn and there's little room between ribs to make 'mirror' images of the servos. pic 1/2: Servos will be mounted horizontally so aluminum 'L' brackets are used. pic 3: 1/8" ply used with dimensions drawn on the ply and ready to be cut. pic 4: servo trays epoxied. pic 5: Dry fit of servo pic 6: dry fit of servo tray in wing. The tray will be epoxied to the main spare, one rib and the wing sheeting. =========================== Fuse (cont) Formers F-9 and F-10 support the main landing gear and also the outer wings so the 3 part ply definitely needs to be re-enforced with the 6 ply aircraft ply. Today, I got F-10 cut and epoxied in. Since the fuse frame is already assembled, I had to cut F-10 into four parts to get it into the fuse. pic 7/8: Template tested/cut to fit in the fuse via four pieces. pic 9: F-10 cut out of the 1/8" ply and lightening holes added to save some weight. (interesting that the original didn't have lightening holes) pic 10/11: F-10 sistered to original F-10 with epoxy.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 7:25 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9261169

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
The original plans says 16-20 lbs so, with a turbine, I'm guessing around 22 lbs.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 8:59 AM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257309

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) This building is not only fun but it's 'addicting': it's 2 AM in the morning and I wanted to get the bottom sheeting on so it can 'cook' over night! I used two of the three-sheet balsa that I glued up this morning on the bottom of the wing. I cut it so the grain is parallel to the TE of the wing. I made the back edge even with the TE so there is a 3/16" 'jog' between the aileron and flap TE. As with the stab and elevator, I'm leaving a gap between the wing and ailerons and flaps so it will be easy to cut the ailerons and flaps from the wing plus a nice straight edge will already exist. I also cut it to align with the middle of the main spar. The two outside edges are about 1/16" overhang for 'slop' which can, later, easily be sanded off. The bottom is fairly flat so the sheeting doesn't need to be bent around any curves so it shouldn't warp the wing: the top of the wing varies in height along the ribs so it would be difficult to create a jig to hold the wing in place in an inverted position. Elmers glue used along with lots of pins and some weight. The remaining part of the sheeting (as seen in the pictures) will be used to cover the bottom wings forward of the main spar. Later, I'll install servo mounts, etc and then sheet the top of the wing.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 2:16 AM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256969

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) Alignment dowels and new longer wing tube. On the two alignment dowels for each wing, I worked backwards in that I first drilled the holes in the inner wing (1/4" forstner bit): I then elongated a hole in the general area of the outer wing as this will allow me to insert the dowel into the inner wing and then epoxy the dowel assembly to the outer wing, thus insuring perfect alignment. As with the wing tube holes in the ribs, the laser cut holes for the dowels are not aligned with each other: thus the reason for my procedure. I also wasn't comfortable with the length of the wing tube so I cut new 10" long tubes that go to the third rib (W-3) and re-enforced it with a 1/8" thick ply. Granted, the original rib is only balsa but the 1/8" ply will be epoxied to the sheer web and the two wing surfaces. pic 1: Original alignment holes in the inner wing are re-drilled since I sistered an extra ply to the rib. pic 2: The outer wing alignment holes are enlarged for dowel adjustment. Previously, using a paint stick with 120 grit glued to it, I hand sanded all the spars so they would be flush to the ribs. I also sanded the LE of the wing: here I have only put the 1/4" square and 1/8" thick balsa LE on and not the final LE piece. This will allow me to sheet the wing and then sand the LE flat: at which time, I will glue on the final LE piece and then contour the LE to the wing. pic 3: Alignment assembly (1/4" thick ply) pic 4: First, I aligned the two W-3 ribs (inner and outer wing) and clamped them together and then I put the dowel assembly into the inner wing hole after putting epoxy on the surfaces of the outer wing and then clamped the dowel assembly to the rib which will insure perfect alignment. pic 5: New 10" long wing tubes cut versus the original shorter one shown right in the picture. pic 6-8: I ran the 1/4" square balsa to the W-3 rib for a little extra support. I put a new 1/8" thick that's about 3" long mirror image of W-3 rib with a 1 1/4" hole for the wing tube. pic 9: The enlarged hole on the outer wing will later be filled in around the dowel.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 7:48 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256070

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Wings (cont) Sheeting the wings: I figured that I better do the prep work now so it'll be ready for when I need them. I used elmers glue to make up four sets (for starters) of three pieces of 3/32" thick balsa. pic 1: As most of the edges of the sheet balsa has a bow to them, they need to be perfectly straight for jointing. I tried the straight edge with clamps and and some plywood for a base but the balsa split out on any hard balsa. This would probably be OK for very soft balsa. (some of the stuff supplied in a full kit can have a variety of grains and hardness). I went back to my full wood working jointer to get straight edges. pic 2: The four sets of three sheets secured with masking tape. pic 3: I find the edge of a table the easiest to apply glue when more than two sheets are being used. pic 4: Some weights and let her 'cook'. pic 5: Once in awhile, I need to clean up the mess that was materializing from all the scraps. (also good when that small piece of balsa falls and I don't have to guess which one it is!). The cleaned top also allowed me to find the dihedral: 1 1/2" from W-1 to W-8: Didn't check mine to see if it conformed since what I've got is what I'm 'sticking with'! pic 6/7: The wings were re-secured to the plans and the sheer webbing was added to the main spare. I used 3/32" thick balsa. Since I used CA, I made sure all the sides touching the ribs were snug so the CA will be most effective. I could have used elmers but I was impatient!
Posted on: 11/15/2009 12:24 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255236

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Got into the mid 60's for today with low winds and sunny skies so I had to get some 'stick' time. ======== Tail feathers (cont) Stab (cont) pic 1: Put the final sheeting on the stab and used my hand oscillating sander to, initially, sand down the leading edge. Care had to be taken with power tools on balsa as power tools allow you to make mistakes, quicker! =============== Wings (cont) Re-enforcement of the lite ply by sistering new aircraft ply to the original 3 ply. Obviously, this will add weight but I feel it's a good trade off to ripping out the gear mounts landing in the grass or the wings folding. pic 2: New W-1 ribs cut and ready to be installed. Outer wings get 1/8" thick aircraft ply while the inner wing gets 1/16" ply. Since the structure of the wing is already made, I had to cut new W-1's into sections. pic 3: Epoxy and lots of clamps hold the new W-1 that is sistered to the outer and inner wing rib on the right side. pic 4: After the epoxy dried (about 30 minutes: dry but not super hard yet so it makes it easier to get the wing back off). I oiled the wing tube so the epoxy wouldn't stick to it. I didn't epoxy the wing tube in at this time since I'm uncomfortable with the length of the provided tube so I bought more and will cut a longer tube with additional support in the outer wing. pic 5: Left side done. ========== Main gear support re-enforcement. pic 6: With only lite ply (3 ply) holding the gear mounts, I'm sistering 1/8" aircraft ply (6 ply) to the original support (FW-2). FW-3 is another support between two formers but I feel 1/16" thick ply is good enough for this support. ps: ply normally comes in odd number of ply's but the 1/8" thick stuff appears to have 8 ply's. pic 7: Dry fit FW-2. pic 8: Dry fit FW-3. ========== pic 9: I finished off sanding the LE of the stab with sand paper on a paint stick. I find this 3M 8511 dust mask works well for me when generating a lot of dust. Since I wear glasses, this better quality mask has a one way valve to allow humid air to escape other than towards my glasses!
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:21 AM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254467

RE: Keeping planes in a trailer?
I'm sure each area of the country is different but in Ohio: I've got two different kind of trailers: a gutted 'pop-up' and a 'regular' trailer. I store my mobile miter saw and table saw in the 'regular' trailer and rust has formed on bolts and a few other small parts. I left one of my planes in the pop-up over the winter and the bolts around the engine got rusty. The parts being cold and then a sudden warm spell causes condensation so I take my stuff in to a nice controlled environment. You can store several planes stacked over each other using cheap hollow core doors. (freezing weather also isn't the best thing for batteries). Wrap some plastic around the perimeter and your stuff should stay 'dust free'. Since you're storing in a garage, use an incandescent bulb under the plastic to keep everything warm and less likely to get moisture forming on it. Home Depot sells rolls of clear, heavy duty plastic.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 12:26 AM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254527

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Ampeater: If you can fly an IMAA legal warbird off your field, you can fly this baby, too. She doesn't need much runway and can fly about the same speed as the IMAA warbirds. =========================== Wings (cont) Got home late today but managed to fix the right wing that has the wing tube hole in the wrong location by making a new rib (W-1), elongating the hole in the original W-1 and sistering the new rib to the old. pic 1/2: I used the scroll saw and oscillating sander to make new ribs. pic 3: Forstner bits used to make the new holes. pic 4-6: The new aircraft 1/8" thick ply dry fitted to the original outer wing W-1. The kit comes only with 3 ply and the plans call for 5 ply (aircraft ply) so I will also be cutting all new 1/16" ply to re-enforce all the 3 ply stuff. As you can see in the picture (old ply was laser cut so easily distinguishable from the new ply) , I have cut another W-1 using 1/16" thick ply and dry fitted it to the inner wing W-1. I made copies of all the forms using plywood and will be busy cutting new parts. Since the parts are already assembled, I'll probably have to cut the 1/16" part into two or more pieces to get them to fit, but, with epoxy, they should drastically increase the strength of the original ply. pic 7: The left wing had separation between the the W-1 ribs at the front due to my error on assembling the outer wing so I cut the LE to relieve the stress and sistered in some balsa to strengthen the cut. pic 8: Table level, fuse level, wings equal distance from the table: as Ralphie would say in Christmas story: 'all is right in the world, again'! pic 9: Now is a good time to get the alignment dowels in so the 1/4" diameters dowels and re-enforcement blocks were cut.
Posted on: 11/14/2009 12:13 AM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9252439

RE: Yellow P-38 build thread
aileron servo bracket update. pic 1/2: In a previous post (#97) on installing the aileron servos, I cut an electrical box to make brackets. Over this past summer, I also had them on my Ziroli P-47 functioning cowl flaps and they broke. pic 3/4: I made some new aluminum 'L' brackets and installed them on the aileron servos. pic 5: She's still in the hanger. I had other planes that I maidened this summer but I'm hoping for next season!
Posted on: 10/23/2009 9:50 AM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195723

RE: ROAD TRIPS: 2009
Sounds good. I plan on doing the same thing, next year. My biggest problem will probably being which planes to fly....retirement is great!
Posted on: 10/21/2009 9:27 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192098

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
pic 1/2/3: Organize first. My 'plane' room where all my parts are kept were in a shambles so I first had to spend a few days getting everything organized before I can do any building. Home depot has some cheap prices on plastic containers. Going to need servo brackets. (I'm 'easing' into this build slowly!) pic 4: Cut up some 1/8" thick aluminum 'L' angle into a size more suitable for servos! pic 5: Marked, center punched and drilled pilot holes for the screws. pic 6: #41 drill for the final hole and then tapped two of the holes for 4X40 button head machine screws and two servo hex head screws will hold the 'L' bracket to the ply mounting. pic 7/8: Got to get some work done on my daughter's 90 year old house before getting 'heavy' into model building. I put in 22 new windows with all new trim, new bead board chair rail and a new 'full wall' cabinets for her study. Should be about winding down for her project for this year.
Posted on: 10/21/2009 9:16 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192070

RE: COMP ARF 110
new front hinges so the outside wing will not have to be cut for hinge clearance. pic 1: Got my two front modified hinges from Darrell. pic 2: I'm assuming that they go on the inside wing. Only three holes are used instead of the original four but that should be enough since this does not appear to be a high stress point. They should go on easily since I have four blind nuts epoxied on the other side of the ply. Since Darrell made the original hinges, I'm sure the hinge point holes align up perfectly on the new modified hinges. (now I'm glad that I didn't finish the plane last spring!)
Posted on: 10/18/2009 6:32 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9183444

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Rich, Every pilot that I've talked to, likes their Ziroli Panther. I enjoyed flying with you this season: will do it again, next year. Bill, As you can see in one of the pictures, the P-38 is in the 'hanger' (as most of them are as it's getting cold here while it's getting warm where you are). The only ones not yet in the 'hanger' is my yellow spit and Balsausa 1/3 scale Nieuport. The rest are in the 'hanger': pic 1: Ziroli B-25: stripped and needs to be 'overhauled'. Yellow P-38: ready to fly (hoping for next summer). pic 2: Ziroli F9F: only fuse framed up, so far. Ziroli P-47: this summer, I flew the wings off her as well as the C-45. Busy summer as I went through about 35 gallons of gas (17 meets will do it, especially being at a lot of them for 3-5 days: I love retirement!). Ziroli P-61: (bottom) full kit, everything but the engines and wheels/brakes (Darrell's doing those for me). pic 3: Yellow AT-6 Ziroli C-45: I love flying this twin. comparf F4U: will definitely be finished in the 'off' season so it can go on next year's 'tour'. pic 4: TF F4U pic 5: Palmer tigercat pic 6: BVM F-86: still has OS DF, will convert to turbine after the F9F. pic 7: VQ P-61: will use for reference when building the Ziroli and then sell off. pic 8: New Yellow P-40 with DA-50 and retracts: ready to be built. pic 9: Ziroli P-51 and old yellow P-40: both were in my shop fire. New full kit for the P-51. I've got enough project to keep me busy for awhile!
Posted on: 10/17/2009 6:59 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181127

RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
My UAT (ultimate air trap: any air in the fuel line will kill the engine), fuel lines plus a few other items came in and my buddy Joe came over to help me set up a bench test of the engine. As you can see in the pictures, there's a lot more 'stuff' to connect up to run a turbine. Once you get everything set up though, it's pretty easy to start as the ECU controls and checks the startup. I'm using a two channel system to start up the turbine. I'm using the three position aux 2 toggle and the throttle. Important items are setting up fail safe so the engine dies if signal is lost from the transmitter and also inputting all the throttle/trim settings to the ECU. Once all that's done, I just put the aux 2 toggle to center, move the throttle to full and after about 4 seconds, move the throttle back to idle. The ECU then sequences through its steps to start up the engine and insure all temperatures/RPM's are functioning properly. The P70 idles around 38,000 RPM's and maxes out at around 123,000 RPM's. Bench test of the turbine: (idle and full throttle). http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/jetcat-P70-bench-test
Posted on: 10/16/2009 10:30 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9179368

RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Foxx, For canopy build see post # 144-170. (page 6) The spinner is yellows (post # 159). a Xoar 24X12 works well on a 3W-75. To remotely operating a canopy see my comparf F4U thread and also Robart's Ziroli P-47 thread.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 5:34 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173371

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
close to 5/8": http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/ns/acce/wingandspartubes/carbonfiber/
Posted on: 10/14/2009 1:16 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9172759

RE: ROAD TRIPS: 2009
Gary Webb sent me this web site video: Al Norman, Lockheed Martin's chief F-22 test pilot, describes the flight demo of the Raptor at the Farnborough Airshow. http://www.militarytimes.com/multimedia/video/index_da.swf?fa=armytimes&wa=armytimes&wd=575&ht=324&cp=21772&bw=&state=vid&em=false&fn=/flv/20080714_rc_f22
Posted on: 10/13/2009 6:53 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170690

RE: FiberClassics P-51 now Comp-ARF P-51
Looking at that warp closer, I initially thought that just the vertical fin was out of alignment: now it appears that the entire rear of the fuse is warped. That's a pretty nasty warp. If it's the fuse, I'm now leaning towards Gary's idea of returning it. Probably should call up comparf and send them a picture and see what they are going to do about it!
Posted on: 10/12/2009 12:08 PM by Author "samparfitt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166578