RE: Deuce and a Half
Wade, I didn't see anybody post this tip (and please forgive me if it's something obvious that you already know about). You can make the width of the TLT axle that you're using on the front, by using the inner rim from a set of the rear wheels for it. I've done it several times, and it works well. -Mike
Posted on: 5/28/2012 9:50 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11098129

RE: M-36 builds?
You'll notice that the tracks in the large picture of the M-36 have the duckbill extenders on both sides of the track shoes. This is the 'E9' modification, which was designerd to reduce the ground pressure of the VVSS Shermans. Unfortunately, it came out at the same time as the HVSS suspension, so it didn't get used much until after WW2, when it was used on a lot of export vehicles. The suspension components are the same - they're just spaced out from the hull to clear the insdie run of duckbills.
Posted on: 4/27/2012 12:18 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11059260

RE: Looks Like Wecohe is back
I've never understood the "legalities" of the VAT. In the past, I bought several of Christian Juckenberg's kits from his site. I got charged VAT whenever I bought from him, and then found out that a German-speaking friend on the east coast was able to buy them from him without paying the VAT. My friend's explanation to me was that the VAT was an internal tax for Germany; and didn't have to apply to exports - you just needed to square it away with the seller. When I asked Mr. Juckenberg about it for future purchases, (and out of respect to my friend, I didn't mention their arrangement), he replied that it was a mandatory tax that everyone had to pay. So, that showed me that he was not the kind of dealer I wanted to support any further, I haven't bought anything else from him - I really can't afford to throw away money when it isn't necessary. -Mike
Posted on: 4/24/2012 2:42 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11055212

RE: Asiatam Porsche tiger and sturmtiger
A couple of thoughts other about the turret on #003. I read accounts that say that the cupola hatch laid flat when open, but I have ALWAYS seen pictures of this vehicle with the hatch open at the normal 110 (?) degree angle - although I cannot see the hold-open device in any of the pictures. The cupola has five vision slots, and one should face forward as on other Tigers, (not rotated like the model shown). I also understand that vision ports on the turret sides of all of these turrets were a little lower (at 41cm) than what finally made it into production on the Tiger I (at 48cm). That was from David Byrden's Tiger I site, which is a wonderful reference for obscure stuff like this: http://tiger1.info/EN/TigerPEscapeHatch.html
Posted on: 4/17/2012 7:22 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11046359

RE: Asiatam Porsche tiger and sturmtiger
I agree that all of the Vk 45.01 (P) tank turrets need the earlier mantlet, and did not have pilzen mounts. And for the first 12 of them, they had a raised roof section to clear the breech when the gun was fully depressed. From what I understand, turrets #13 and #14 had the raised, flat roof that eventually made it into production on the Henshel chassis. One of these two turrets was used on tank #003 that was kept for trials until it was finally issued to the 653rd in April of 1944. I understand that - while at the testing ground - it had been upgraded with zimmeritt, pilzen mounts on the roof, and the turret escape hatch. I have never seen a picture that clearly shows the hatch. The only "close" photograph of this area, shows a crewmember standing on the rear deck, and the "angled thing" in front of his feet is purported to be the open escape hatch, with the locking device inside the escape hatch being what you see. I believe that opinion, and will follow that when I build my model of it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/deckarudo/5799454635/in/set-72157626756948481
Posted on: 4/17/2012 4:44 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11046323

RE: Tamiya Panth/Jagdpanther & Tiger roadwheel diameters needed
Rik, I don't have a metric caliper, so you'll have to convert. I took measurements at two places without the tire on - at the visible OD of the rim, and at the largest OD (the part that "centers" the rubber tire). The visible OD of the Tiger is 1.695" and for the Panther it is 1.825." At the largest OD, for the Tiger I it is 1.833" and for the Panther it is 1.969." -Mike
Posted on: 4/14/2012 4:25 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11041976

RE: Tamiya KV-2 idler/track tensioner issue?
Although I bought my KV-1 new, I wasn't satisfied with how "robust" the stock idler setup was. (Granted, it was a lot better than the Heng Long setup, but I was worried that it would not hold up to metal tracks). I bought a set of Tankmodelbau KV idler mounts from Welshdragon - http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/tank-modellbau-track-tension-adjustors-for-heng-long-kv1-861-p.asp - and adapted them to fit the Tamiya hull. I think it was a very good upgrade, and really beefed up that weak point. I note that he is out of stock of them right now, but perhaps he could tell you when he's getting more of them in. -Mike
Posted on: 4/12/2012 7:55 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11039744

RE: Yes I am serious.... (T34-85 Mod)
I recently showed my 8-year-old grandson Lance a Mato Sherman that Phil had built for me (with all the bells and whistles, so it works very well). I let Lance drive it and fire the gun & MG, and he said that he would like to have one as well. (And just like everybody else on here; I thought, "It's never too early to get them started"). So I showed him some of the different types of color schemes, and he stated that he wants to have it in camouflage. But, when I asked him what colors he wants, he said "Purple and Blue." Okay, that took me a minute to recover from; and then I decided, why not? It's HIS tank, so it ought to be as he wants it. I have an already-painted stock Sherman that I was planning to eventually use the BYA M4A3E8 kit on, and have decided that I will use that good-running chassis to let Lance start on. I'm going to use a spare Mato upper hull and turret for it, and let him rattle-can everything but the chassis until he's satisfied with it. And then - if he continues to enjoy it the hobby - I hope to eventually steer him towards a more realistic look, and build up the BYA kit to go on this same chassis that he'll be used to driving. We'll see how it goes. Interesting situation though - sometimes you just have to step back and try to look at everything from a really different perspective than you're used to. -Mike
Posted on: 4/3/2012 2:13 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11027034

RE: E-75
The ones I buy from Walmart cost $7, and have three hollow sections that fit inside each other - each section is around 3 feet long. They sell them under the brand "Kwik Stick Bream Pole" and the markings on the pole say that they're made by South Bend. I've also seen similar ones at Sports Authority, but they're about three times the price. -Mike
Posted on: 3/16/2012 2:39 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11003084

RE: Scratch Jagdtiger 1/16 - KT tamiya
Bob, I really like the system you are showing. As a modification to it, if you used a coil spring in between the bottom of the cross-plate and the clevis, (what you called the plastic extensions, and which you can get in metal), then you would have a spring-loader idler. You might have to play with the type of springs and beef up the cross-plate for durability; but it ought to work, right? -Mike
Posted on: 2/14/2012 12:52 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10958856

RE: DIY german E50 build
And, I'm number five to admit to following this thread, so Scott - I guess that makes you and Ace! Seriously, I have been so impressed by the effort you've put into this, that I bought a Tamiya Jadgpanther from Bob just so I can try and build one of my own. Thank you very much for posting a step-by-step tutorial on what you've gone through up to now.
Posted on: 2/1/2012 4:29 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10939162

RE: Flakzwilling 3.7cm auf panzerkampfwagen Panther.
You never fail to impress, Rex. You just "whip together" stuff that would take me hours & hours of contemplation and drinking - before finally deciding that it's probably beyond my capabilities, anyway. Always a treat to see what comes off your drawing boards! -Mike
Posted on: 1/26/2012 2:22 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10929275

RE: The Hummel's big brother.
I'm surprised that no one commented on this build. Thank you for posing the Youtube link - it was enjoyable to see it operate, as well as being able to see some of the build details. Great job on the cannon, as well as making the idler look a lot better than simply using the stock King Tiger idler. I haven't started any of the bodywork on my own build yet; only gotten as far as an operating chassis, (which weighs just over 10 pounds with no battery or electronics) - and am using the stock KT idler so far. One thing I plan to include is a modified "Big Bang" carbide cannon; just for the cool factor. I don't know if I'll be able to make it recoil like yours, though. Anyway, thanks again for sharing it. -Mike
Posted on: 1/25/2012 10:54 AM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10927081

RE: M8A1 tractor build
In case you haven't seen it, there's a book titled High Speed Tractors by Ampersand Publishing. I bought it a couple of years ago for the section it has on the M6, which is my favorite HST, but it also has a section on the M8. Here is a link to it for sale at Cybermodeler, which you might find of interest because it has a pretty good description of what's in the book. I'm sure it's available from Amazon as well. http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/ref/amp/book_amp_hst.shtml -Mike
Posted on: 1/22/2012 5:58 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10922294

RE: USMC Sherman
Great paint job on the Deuce gear. It's been a long time since I had to refer to them at all. Haversack and Rucksack? I know that we always called the lower one a Buttpack. -Mike
Posted on: 1/11/2012 1:02 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10903830

RE: I'm going to make it!!
Great news to hear, Don! Maybe this Panther will be your "Victory" model to commemorate the event.
Posted on: 1/9/2012 3:57 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10900574

RE: Weird King Tiger VK45.02 ??
Christian Ludwig makes kits of both the VK 45.01 (Tiger I turret) and VK 45.02 (King Tiger turret; either mounted at the front or at the rear). His website is http://www.ludwigs-hobby-seite.de/flohmarkt.html And, if you don't want to start with a Hooben kit for the chassis, he also makes lower hulls out of 3mm aluminum that are drilled to take the Asiatam suspension units. They aren't cheap, but they do have a very high Cool Factor.
Posted on: 12/30/2011 12:31 AM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10882459

RE: Barrel Plug for Matorro Stumtiger needed
I am converting one to an 88mm-armed paper panzer, so I don't need the one that came with mine. (I had to look through the parts to make sure I didn't throw it out, before I said anything). Nope - I still have it and it's yours if you want it. -Mike
Posted on: 12/22/2011 6:19 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10872253

RE: Sherman gearboxes (Tamiya)
I have used these gearboxes and like them also. I have not (yet) had a problem with them. If the problem you're talking about is related to the setscrew backing out or coming loose; I would think it's possible to drill all the way through the shaft and use something that pins it all together. If you know anyone who has a Tamiya F-350 High Lift, there is a pin like this (they refer to it as "screw pin" part BC11) that you screw into the front of the differential to lock it. It is 11mm long, and has a diameter of 2.4mm, with just one end threaded to 3mm. You could use the existing setscrew hole in the brass output shaft to drill all the way through the steel shaft and the far side of the brass, and then just thread the pin into the existing setscrew hole. That would probably solve the problem pretty well; while still allowing future disassembly. -Mike I just did some checking. The brass output shaft is 0.0430" in diameter, and the pin is 0.0420" long. That means it won't protrude and hang up on things. The diameter of the unthreaded portion of the pin is the same as a 3/32" drill; so it ought to be a pretty easy fix. If you cannot locate anyone who has these pins; I have a couple I can give to you. -Mike
Posted on: 12/12/2011 4:13 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10856395

RE: Tamiya connector socket
Dan, you the Man! I have been looking for a way to do exactly this for awhile now. Great tip, and very well explained - thank you!
Posted on: 11/28/2011 11:07 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10834029

RE: Another Firefly project
Hi Herman. Yes, that explains it well, I think. Thank you. It sounds like - just like with the plastic idler - you use the same hex-head bolt through the inside piece, and thread that into the idler mount on the hull. I have had mixed success trying to fit the plastic idler with bearings, and I guess I'll have to go through the same thing if I get these. I'm just surprised that these wouldn't have already come with bearings - that is the one place that they're really needed. Still in all; they've got to last longer with metal tracks than a plascit idler will. -Mike
Posted on: 11/2/2011 10:16 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10794496

RE: Another Firefly project
Thank you for the info that Phil is carrying the metal sprockets & idlers, Mike. I have been waiting for such things, but didn't know they were out yet. Can anyone post a picture of what the inside of the idler looks like? (The photo at RC Tank Wars and at Mato Mart just shows them assembled). I am curious if they can be adapted for bearings, or if they simply look exactly like the stock plastic ones do. Thank you. -Mike
Posted on: 11/2/2011 1:28 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10793779

RE: OT: I've been asked to provide my DNA...
Mike, I retired from Pearl Harbor Naval Shipyard a little over a year ago. Inside the entrance to the HQ building, there is a photographic display of the uprighting efforts for USS Oklahoma. (Supposedly, the winches they used were those from the three Marine Railways; where they used to pull submarines and smaller ships in a cradle up a ramp and out of the water). Above the entrance doors, they have mounted the ship's wheel from the USS Oklahoma. It's made of wood and is probably about eight feet in diameter. Let me know if you ever plan a trip through here, and I'll make sure you get there to see it. -Mike in Hawaii.
Posted on: 10/30/2011 2:32 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10789649

RE: Jumbo Project
Not sure if this will help you out or not. I have a couple of (what are supposed to be) 76mm Sherman muzzle brakes in resin. One came a long time ago with a MaxTrax T-23 turret, and is molded on the end of the (non-hollow) barrel. The rear baffle is circular in shape; unlike the front baffle, which looks rectangular from the front. I always suspected that it was cast from a mold of the Bandai 1/15 Sturmgeschutz plastic barrel; because it looks just like it. The other one is just the resin muzzle break itself, and meant to fit onto the end of a metal barrel. I have no idea where it came from, but it looks to be a dead-ringer for the one that came with the BYA conversion kit. Both of them are a lot smaller than the 90mm one from the Pershing, so they may be a better starting point for you. PM me if nobody comes up with something better, and I'll send them to you. -Mike
Posted on: 10/20/2011 3:23 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775060

RE: Mato Tracks
Philipat, the pins are knurled at one end - the end on the inside. Then you slide the center pieces and the outside end connector (the one with the 'tooth') onto the pins. You have to hammer/press the extended end (the 'duckbill') onto the pins to secure everything. You would have to disassemble the run (it took me about two hours to do this, using a spring-loaded center punch); cut the pins shorter; and find a way to knurl the end to provide a force fit into the end connector. -Mike
Posted on: 9/28/2011 12:12 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10738697

RE: Mato Tracks
I want to chime in on Panther G's thread regarding these new tracks. Like him, I got my set from Phil, and wanted to use them on a M4A3E2 Jumbo build as well. I couldn't find any pictures of a wartime Jumbo that used tracks that looked like this, but I thought, "Why not switch out the center pieces of the earlier Mato tracks with the extended grouser parts from these?" (And, I am writing this because I'll bet there are others of you out there thinking the same thing). The short story is, it will NOT work. Comparing the parts, the new track has pins that are 0.070" diameter, while the old track has pins that are 0.050" diameter. I figured that maybe I could "sleeve" the new center pieces to fit the old pins, and end up with a cleat track without end connecdtors that I could use on a Marine Corps M4A2. Well, that didn't work because I couldn't find a diameter of brass tube that would fit over the pins and still fit into the cleat center pieces, without drilling the center pieces out more - you'd need something with a wall thickness of .010" to fit. But, without a sleeve of some sort, there is too much free play and the track flops around and looks dorky when assembled. As for fitting the new, extended pins to the old plastic chevron center pieces; that didn't work either. I tried using a 2mm drill bit to enlarge the holes in the track centers for the new pins, but when assembled, the center pieces are forced so closely together that the track run stays flat and will not curve at all. So, I took it apart, and ground an angle on each side of the plastic pieces where they contacted each other. Well, that allowed it to curve so much, that it wouldn't want to lay flat at all, AND, it changed the distance between end connectors so much that it would no longer fit around the drive sprocket. I guess we will have to wait for either track type to make their next version, and then only try and swap out parts from the same type. -Mike
Posted on: 9/27/2011 5:00 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10737373

RE: Mon Char B1 bis, c'est fini !!!!
An absolutely magnificent job! And although I understand about not wanting to cover up all of the detail work you put into it, the paint job DOES do it justice. The only French I know is "Merci Beau Coup A Lot" for sharing it with us, Rex.
Posted on: 9/23/2011 11:57 AM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730678

RE: Planes NO tanks YES!
Joe, I don't know about the status of any tank clubs where you're at, but was thinking that maybe you and your son could swing a trip to Danville during one of their battle days. (It may be a long way from where you live, but it's a darned sight better than where I would have to drive from - Hawaii)! Anyway, it would give you folks a chance to see some of the real stuff up close, and to see RC tanks on the battlefield and how the competition goes. And, I know that the participants there are always friendly and willing to help out (maybe even let your son drive one around to see if he likes it. That would REALLY cement the interest, I'll bet)! Something to think about, anyway. -Mike
Posted on: 9/21/2011 1:09 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10727726

RE: video of mato sherman (Metal) suspension
There seems to be less crowding between the bogie wheels. Are there stronger springs that force each independent suspension arm farther downward, or are the roadwhweels themselves just smaller? It really looks nice! -Mike
Posted on: 9/13/2011 1:47 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10714962

RE: Panther II tam conversion - KT traction NEW and Kever SS 1/17
Thank you, Jeff. I'll put on my reading glasses and go look at some books. -Mike
Posted on: 9/9/2011 12:29 PM by Author "sassgrunt" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10708984