RE: Sterling P-63
Triple A did you ever get around to build your P-63? I had this kit way back in the 70s, flew it with a Fox .36 believe it or not and it flew great. I kept the plans and about 5 years ago built another, powered it with a K&B .61. I put retracts in it and had to extend the nose about 4" to get it all to fit. It flew even better of course with the added power. If I were to build another, I would probably go with an O&S .75. Just a little more punch. Remember this was designed around linear servos that were huge! The one thing I would change is the way the ailerons are set up. I would go with servos in the wing rather than the bellcranks. A lot better link and less slop. They will tend to be a little flexable with the bell cranks. Good luck with yours if you haven't started it yet. Great build and a good flier........I am looking at the Palmer Plans P-63 right now, trying to decide if I want to build one that large. 92" wing span just about will take up all of my workbench to build! I do like the King Cobra though. If I do one it will be in the colors of the one at the Palm Springs Air Museum. "Pretty Polly" is all OD with a bit of red trim. Have seen it fly there and is quite a sight and sound to experience.
Posted on: 7/28/2012 10:46 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11172270

RE: Proctor Nieuport 28 warped tail surface.
Ceconite is indeed heat shrinkable up to 400 degrees if I read the instructions right. I am afraid of blistering the finish. I may get away with weighting the stabs down flat, putting a towel over the surface and use a cloths iron or heat gun to heat the surface and hope that will flatten everything out. If not I will just have to strip the stabs and start over with something less aggressive as far as shrinkage. I have some polyester dress lining I have used on a Buzzard Bombshell that will do the trick. Just hate to ruin the patina and finish on this old bird.........
Posted on: 7/7/2012 7:41 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146383

Proctor Nieuport 28 warped tail surface.
Need some help here men. Our club was given a Proctor Nieuport 28 C-1, 80" span, that needs a little work. It is covered with Ceconite fabric and unknown paint for finish. The paint cleaned up ok with some Windex with apple cider, so I am not too concerned about the finish, it looks like it is going to hold up. The fabric looks pretty good too, may need to be tightened a bit. It has a gas motor, so I suspect the finish to be latex paint. The problem is a warp in the horizontal tail surface. I have not worked with Ceconite and wonder what can be done to take the warp out. Short of taking the covering off, I would like to hear from those who might have an idea on how to take the warp out and preserve the finish. Thanks guys for any help........
Posted on: 7/6/2012 12:23 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145541

RE: Top-flite AT-6 arf wing joiner covers
I have an e-mail into TF right now and awaiting a reply. I though I might get someone to reply who has crashed their 6 beyond repair and I could get the wing joint covers if TF couldn't provide them for me. Searching all avenues.........
Posted on: 5/13/2012 6:12 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11079634

Top-flite AT-6 arf wing joiner covers
Looking for the plastic wing joiner covers for the TF AT-6 arf. Any crashed or bashed TF AT-6 afs out there, that you would be willing to part out. I have the kit built and would like to finish it up with the joint covers that are on the arf. Thanks for any reply.........
Posted on: 5/12/2012 10:12 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078672

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Ok Brad. I too have the tail feathers from Chad. I have the right thrust built in per the kit, but no down thrust. I would think that adding some + incidence would make the tail come up and down elevator would be needed to level the flight out, correct? Where is the C/G on your bird? I am at 4 and 1/8" back from the LE. Once we got it flying straight and level the C/G seemed fine.
Posted on: 11/8/2011 5:29 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803331

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Just fishing here. The elevator was about 1/4" positive from center when we got it all trimmed, flying straight and level and on the ground to check things out. I suspect an incidence issue here. Would you not want to put + into the wing so the elevator will have to go down to trim it out? Once it was trimmed, it flew just fine, I just am not real pleased with so much up trim to get it to fly. As I posted earlier the first flight was tail heavy.
Posted on: 11/8/2011 5:23 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803317

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Ok men, need some advice on flying this bird. I have had 2 flights and here are the results. Flight #1 tail heavy, lucky to get it back to the field. Rebalanced with the gear UP and that solved the tail heavy problem. Flight #2 took a lot of up elevator and right trim to get it to fly straight and level. Once it was trimmed out, the C/G was right on. I built it as straight as possible and followed the recommendations about right thrust and no down thrust. I can get the right trim taken care of as I think one of the flaps was drooping a bit. I am concerned about the amount of up elevator it took. How would you solve this problem? Add down thrust or add incidence to the wing. I have 2 years in this ship and sure don't want a hanger queen, I built it following most of the ideas on this thread and it looks just great, just doesn't fly quit right. Any ideas??????????
Posted on: 11/8/2011 3:40 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803146

RE: getting the wood ready for primer
WhiteRook, the strength comes from the glass cloth and a good structure under the finish. It is just an easier and not so toxic way of putting a base for your finish on. I just needed to get away from the fumes and read a couple of good articles about poly u. Gave it a try on a set of floats and was impressed with the results. If done right it takes less primer to get things ready for color. If you want, just try it on a piece of balsa and see the results before doing a large project. I did this with .75oz, 1.19oz glass cloth and polyester dress lining to simulate a fabric finish I need for a TF Corsair I am getting ready to finish. The .75oz cloth took 2 coats to set and 4 coats to seal. I sanded after the first 2 coats with 320 grit and by the 4th finish coat could not see the fibers in the cloth. The polyester dress material turned out to look just like a doped cloth finish just like the F4U wing tip areas. I ramble..............just give it a try on a smaller project. Just remember to put 2 coats of Laquer base sanding sealer down first. You must seal the balsa from the water in the poly.
Posted on: 5/20/2011 9:30 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10531164

RE: getting the wood ready for primer
Robster, try a polyurethane water based finish. I just completed a TF P-47 with it and had no problem with the odor or seeing strange stuff from the fumes. The only thing that will need to be done in good air circulation, like outside on the picnic table, is putting down 2 coats of laquer sanding sealer. The sealer prevernts the water based polyu from warping the wood. The polyu dries pretty fast and it takes about 4 coats after the first 2 to get the glass cloth sealed for a good finish. Just put it down with a foam brush for the first and second coat, then hit it with 320 grit paper after each coat until the cloth is sealed. I use.75oz cloth, but have used 1.19oz and polyester dress material with excellent results also..........
Posted on: 5/18/2011 9:41 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10527440

D.B.Hall skyraider plans
Picked up a set of plans for a A1H skyraider from D.B. Hall. They are pretty complete but show no retracts or some details that will be easy to fix. It is a 120" span bird that calls for a 55+ cc motor. Has any one on this forum built this aircraft, from this set of plans? It is a future project, but would like to get a start on some of the particulars, if any with this plan. I am looking to do the model that is in the Tennessee Museum of Aviation of "Lieutenant America." Saw too many of these while serving in the USN in VN not to do one, especially with this theme.
Posted on: 5/18/2011 9:30 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10527416

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Dan, ESM retracts too big. Already checked this. I think the 20cc will be too much power. A 15cc may be a better engine if you are thinking gas. I have an O&S.91 2 stroke in mine and if the AT-6 is any indication of how well this motor will work, my AT-6 had a .61 O&S in it and it flew just fine. My next one will have a Super tigre .75 in it just because that is an engine I have available. I think the weight limit on this F4U is about 11-12lbs tops. Any thing more and you will by trying to land a brick. My TF P-51 is right at 10 lbs and it flies great with a .91 O&S four stroke. I am sure you will get more answers from this forum, just my 2 cents worth. Don't mean to start a fight about weight and motors, just letting you know what has worked for me. Good luck on the build, this bird is a challange but more that worth the effort. The modifications on this thread will really make this one stand out if you are so inclined to add them. Some are a challange and some are a simple adjustment with a little sanding and arrangement of parts. Check out Robart, Century Jet and Sierra for your retracts. You have a choice and the cost will go accordingly........
Posted on: 2/23/2011 1:40 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10358291

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
I don't have a camera to take pictures so a written discription of how I did it will have to do. I got some miniature hinges from Nelson Hobby Supply. If I remember they were the 3/8 width ones. Where the stringer for the aft part of the fuse goes to the tail, I substituted a couple pieces of spruce to anchor one side of the hinge to. The one thing to do is substitute a smaller dia. wire for the hinge wire so the doors will swing free and easy. I used 00 size button head allen screws to hold one side of the hinge to the spruce and the smallest nut and bolts I could get from Microfasteners to hold the other side of the hinge to the door. If you order the 00 screws, don't forget to order a couple of allen wrenches along with them. The trick will be opening and closing the doors. I am having a heck of a time getting the door to close without hitting the axle of the tail wheel. I think I will have to move the closing point closer to the pivot point of the tailwheel. I am using elastic thread to pull the door closed, just havn't found that sweet spot to get things to work. I don't want to use another servo to drive the doors as it is really tight back there and I don't want to go chopping things up. It will work out somehow. Let me know if any of you come up with something in the mean time......
Posted on: 2/8/2011 6:27 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10322142

RE: Sterling P-63 King Cobra restoration
Chris, great find on the engines. I would stay with the engine mounting and attitude as it is on the plans. It just looks right and the engine is a lot easier to tune! I will think about another after the projects on the board are completed. I am working on a TF F4U .60 size right now as well as a TF P-51D for our club pres. Putting an arf together for a friend who is having surgery and getting a float plane ready for next year. I kind of am the fixit guy for the club also. The repairs keep me in fuel, as my fee is usually a can of 15 or 20% for the repair. It is just part of the hobby that I enjoy. Not too many kit or plan builders in my club. It is a shame that tissue and dope means tp and drugs to some of the younger members! I can remember when silkspan was included in the kits. Glad you are doing this P-63 over. I really enjoyed how it flew. As I said earlier just too much slop in the ailerons due to their mass. As a side note, I built the Spit that Sterling kitted from plans and it flew great. I built the Platt Spit years ago and I would say the Sterling flew better. Once upon a time there was an article about scaling out the Spit which I obtained from the author. Another project in my mind. Good luck with your P-63. I will follow this thread for a flight report.
Posted on: 12/19/2010 8:12 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10205997

RE: Sterling P-63 King Cobra restoration
I'll add my two cents to the subject. I plan built this one about 3 years ago with retracts and a K&B .61 for power. Only mod was adding about 4" to the nose to get the nose gear to fit. All other parts were built to the original plans. I built the original kit about 40 years ago and powered it with a Fox .36 believe it or not. The kit was covered with olive drab coverite with the kit decals. The plan built one was covered with silk and dope with Klass Kote two part epoxy for the finish. I still have the plans and may put one of these together again. I lost one to battery failure and the other to high power lines that sucked the model in when the radios were AM sets. Both flew great. If I build again I would forgo the bellcranks for the ailerons and go to servo per aileron. I couldn't get the bounce out of the ailerons on either ship when it was on takeoff run. One other thing I would do is reshape the fuse to a rounder shape aft and at the cockpit sides. Have the real thing about 1 hour from home at the Palm Springs Air Museum. Saw it do a run up and mag test on the 16th of Dec. for a flying demo on Sat. Quite a bird and quite rare! Resto looking good!
Posted on: 12/18/2010 11:10 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10204652

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Back on the Corsair build. Have the main gear doors set up but can't seem to figure out how to open and close them. I want to do this mechanically as the room in the bays is quite tight. Are you who are doing this this way closing them with a vertical driver or a rotating one? I set up a drive that rotates but it didn't work out as the main strut wouldn't close the door all the way. Any pics or hints would sure help. I will tackle the main doors first then try to figure the even tighter tail wheel doors!
Posted on: 11/3/2010 6:48 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10113662

RE: Top Flite .60 size P-47 ARF
Ok men, doing a rebuild on this one and need the wheel well inserts. I contacted TF and they said they are not a replacement item. Do any of you that did reviews have any info as to who made the inserts for this bird? It looks like they are built with the wing, but I have enough building skill to replace the wrecked ones if I can get replacements. If push comes to shove would one of you be willing to make me a set of plugs from yours? Thanks for any help with this one. This is a build for a club member. The retract rails tore out when he attempted a dead stick landing with no elevator servo. I know he should have retracted the gear and so does he but you know how fast stuff happens! Let me know on this one if possible. Regards SB46
Posted on: 9/20/2010 12:45 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10014814

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Thanks CorsairJock this is the fix I was looking for. I just couldn't find it! I bought the inserts some time ago and am going to get started on the retracts next. Thanks again.....SB46
Posted on: 8/5/2010 9:34 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9913960

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
Ok men. I have looked through this thread and cannot find the fix for the Robart retracts. I think I have read it here about larger grub screws or another fix to keep the legs from rotating due to small grub screws. Hope I am describing the area of concern that needs to be addressed. Can one of you point me to the page and post number? I purchased the items I needed to fix this problem some time ago but lost the directions on how the heck to do it! Thanks guys. SB46
Posted on: 8/5/2010 8:36 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9913828

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
George: what a story!! It is too bad your bird is not fixable with out a major overhaul. You do know you can order a wing kit from TF and get her back in the air. I have never had a fly away except for a free flight I build many years ago. The last I saw of it, it was a small red dot with the engine still running. DT fuse probably went out. I hope you do a rebuild, you have too pretty of an airframe to junk it. Just put it in the corner for a time, let time takes its course and maybe one day you will look at her again and say maybe it isn't too much to fix. Great story on the equipment.............what radio gear did you use and whose retracts are those?
Posted on: 6/18/2010 10:41 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9812652

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Great flight Aaron! It is amazing how much difference 1/8 to 1/4 inch adjustment to the CG will make on these birds. Do you have any expo dialed in yet? I found about 30% on the elevator and about the same on the ailerons really calm her down a bit. If you try the inverted test, it should take no more that 25% of elevator to maintain level flight. That is not much considering the throws called for. They all fly a bit different. Just some suggestions that have worked for me. Thanks for sharing your build and the videos. 4.0
Posted on: 5/16/2010 11:33 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9738541

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Aaron, good first flight it sounds like. My club pres. also is a 3d nut and he usually gets the maiden flights on my birds. Move that CG fwd, add some expo 30% maybe and you won't believe the difference 1/8" to 1/4" inch will make in the flight performance. He flew my B the first time, said move the CG ahead 1/8" and it was like night and day. Good luck, good flying! You know the trick with 3d to go inverted to check CG. Works here too. Just get 3 mistakes high, roll her over, try to keep your knees from knocking, and hands from shanking, and see what she does. Once you get her dialed in, it is just plain fun to fly. Keep us up to date. I hope to have the D I am working on ready soon. Just getting servos and motor together.
Posted on: 5/7/2010 10:53 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9718480

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
4.0 Aaron!!! Best of luck on the maiden. Take a deep breath and take flight! You have a jewel!
Posted on: 5/7/2010 7:28 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9718084

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Great beginning. Getting the rpms up with the smaller prop will help. The larger prop will cause some windmill effect when you try to slow her down. Next flight or a couple in, get to 3 mistakes high, roll her over and see how she flys inverted. This will give you the best indication of the CG. If she dives I would move the CG aft some and try again. It took me three flights to get it dialed in. My "B" flys at about 1/8" inch in front of the CG on the plans. You will see the difference in how it turns and the feel in the air. The wing was doing its job, not just the power of the engine. Get the lift right and you will enjoy flying this one! Best of luck on future flights. Get some videos.
Posted on: 5/4/2010 1:11 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9708878

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Aaron, she is a little heavy at this weight, but if you balance it at 1/8" in front of the CG on the plans, it will still not be a handful. You do not want to run out of elevator at this weight, and this CG will take care of that. She will land a little hot, but use flaps and you should have no problem. Do Not use flaps on take off! Get her up on the mains and let it run, you will be able to tell when she gets light and will rotate just fine. I don't remember your power, but my "B" has an OS 91 4 stroker that gives me a scale speed of about 65 mph. She will be a little faster without the drop tanks, but they do add some drag on mine. Once you get it up and trimmed, it is a great flyer. I think you will be just fine. If you have more power than mine I know you will be. Put some expo in it about 30% and you should be fine. Best of luck.
Posted on: 5/2/2010 1:09 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9703674

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Aaron, let me add my well done! 4.0 my friend. I hope mine turns out half as nice. Be sure to get some video! She will fly at 10lbs. Just make sure to balance it about 1/8 in front of the CG called for on the plans. My "B" flies great at this CG.
Posted on: 4/29/2010 10:39 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9697624

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I will add my two cents to the discussion about batteries. I too have ditched the nicads and have gone to nimh cells. They hold a charge longer and take a fast charge better. I do not fast charge mine, but I will cycle them about every 6 mos. to keep them in top condition. I would recommend a digital variable load voltmeter be a part of your flight gear. This will put a 1/2 to 2 amp load to your pack and give you the voltage of your flight pack under load. If I had had a meter, I would have saved a great TF AT-6 that was one of my favorites. 2 mins. in the flight, it did the locked up death spiral from 400 ft. beyond rekitting! The first thing I did was order one and use it at the field every time. The battery is checked before the wing goes on, every time. A cheap simple battery checker that may save your bird.
Posted on: 4/9/2010 10:30 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9648557

RE: How to select correct retracts
Scratchie, go to the Robart website and you will find a set of retracts with struts for your AT-6. I used the wire ones on my first 6 and will go with the scale set on #2. Drop right in and ready to go. If you have the arf, you may need to do some plumbing as the set Robart offers are air operated. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 4/5/2010 3:14 PM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9639250

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Bipes, I also have a "B" model and it flies just fine. Just make sure the CG is correct. Balance it out about 1/8" forward of the CG called for on the plans and it flies great. I have a video of mine on youtube under "corona rc club" you can judge for yourself as to how it goes. My speed with an OS .91 four stroker is about 65mph, which is about scale for this models size. If I take the tanks off it can gain more speed. That will be an option when I can set it up with a 7 channel radio(future purchase). I am working on a "D" model right now for our club pres. Take a look at mine even the first flights, getting the retracts to work right, the belly landing did nothing but scrape the engine head and make me repaint the tanks. Nothing else. The better flight was with the P-39, which I also built, and was given the mustang to do it. Go for it!
Posted on: 4/5/2010 11:40 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9638729

RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
George, let me add my name to the list of those who are sorry for the loss. It is tough to loose a bird any time. It is especially hard when a lot of time and effort goes into "the one". I had a TF AT-6 that had 5 flights on it, dialed in, was a great one to fly and lost it to a bad battery pack. 400 ft. crater job. I hope you can retrieve it for the parts, it is a shame to see it go in, but harder not to get anything back. Any idea of going after it? You may get lucky.
Posted on: 4/3/2010 11:10 AM by Author "scratchbuilder46" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9634131