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RE: Good Mac simulators?
BUT HOW?!?!?! I run a Mac Book Pro, not the newest gen, it's 1 older. 4gb ram, super machine. I CAN NOT make this damned thing run phoenix in bootcamp nor parralels - would love some input, and would love to know WTF I'm doing wrong!!! thanks in advance! -n
Posted on: 6/26/2012 11:37 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132611
RE: NITROMODELS REPLACEMENT PARTS REQUEST_Post Here
WOW - Very Impressed With NitroPlanes Service!! Charlie, thanks so much. I am really impressed with the response, the promptness and the courtesy. It is now obvious to me why NitroPlanes is dominating this space.. like many businesses, it's not about the widgets being sold.. It's ABOUT THE SERVICE. For anyone out there hesitant or reticent to purchase from NitroPLanes, please take my case as an example, NitroPlanes is serious about customer-care and I am proof of that. I will be shopping there regularly, going forward. Kudos and THANKS Charlie! Happy 4th of July, Charlie and Everyone!
Posted on: 6/26/2012 11:34 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132604
RE: NITROMODELS REPLACEMENT PARTS REQUEST_Post Here
Thanks Charlie - item # T-28 Trojan - 55" EP-Powered RC Warbird Plane ARF Item#: FD004_T28-Trojan-ARF and here's a link to it http://www.nitroplanes.com/t28-trojan-warbird-plane.html purchased from nitro planes just about 3 weeks ago, at this point, I will PM you any details you need, and thanks very much for your service and turnaround. kind regards, -nick
Posted on: 6/20/2012 1:44 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125601
RE: NITROMODELS REPLACEMENT PARTS REQUEST_Post Here
scud
Posted on: 6/19/2012 5:59 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "NitroModels Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124475
Blata Motor Mounts
Hello, I have a replica of Blata engine in 39cc (MT4) & I search plans of Blata motor mounts like on MHZUSA website to build it. http://206.206.85.209/xtdoc/Details.aspx?ProductCode=m-1531&store=mhzusa Thanks [:D]!
Posted on: 3/27/2009 10:36 AM by Author "scud 2"
in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8621522
RE: Search Plans of Deep V boat
Thanks "doug" for your message ,but it's not exactlly the type of boat that i search ,but it's a good start[;)]
Posted on: 11/28/2008 4:05 PM by Author "scud 2"
in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8192127
RE: Search Plans of Deep V boat
Thanks "Scott" [;)]
Posted on: 11/28/2008 2:21 AM by Author "scud 2"
in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8190813
Search Plans of Deep V boat
Hello everybody, i search plans of rc boats like "APACHE" or "GTX OUTERLIMIT" !!! I would like to build it myself, so if you have a website or photograph , i will happy to see it !!! Thanks [;)]
Posted on: 11/27/2008 1:35 PM by Author "scud 2"
in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8189136
RE: Rio 51 for 275,-$
Hello, I'm french and i was scamed by this man from hobbies-rc.com. I ordered a rio51 but I'd never receive this item. I saw this boat on alibaba.com but they can't help me. You must never buy in Indonésia. trust me, I'd lost 240€ and now I regret to ordered this boat. Bye
Posted on: 4/10/2008 8:08 AM by Author "scud 2"
in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7360132
Turbo 35 Bl - Anyone Use This Charger?? Having a problem- please help!
Guys: I'm trying to use my Turbo35 Bl with my 4-cell 12th scale pan setup. I'm having a few issues: 1) For some reason, the charger keeps blowing fuses on DISCHARGE cycle only... I've tried 20amp and 30amp discharge- either way, during cycling it eats up fuses Need your advice: What settings does everyone use for best conditioning of their packs? I have a DuraTrax 6-cell tray (individual cell discharge) and the Turbo35- just trying to use my stuff the best i can for my batteries: What packs I use: 4-cell 4200 / 3800 matched:
Posted on: 2/18/2008 10:34 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7094726
Turbo35 4-Cell Conditioning
Guys: I'd like to have everyone's input: What would the best cycling-mode be? I'm trying to put some life back into 3800 and 4200 NiMH 4-Cells so I can run my pan car on carpet for the winter. I use a turbo35 BL. what cutoff's etc does everyone use and what's the best way for me to use this Turbo35 to Condition these cells best? thanks very much
Posted on: 2/17/2008 10:09 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7092682
4wd Electric On-Road - Need Input, Need Advice!
Guys- I need a little advice: I currently do not participate in electric much - I compete 1/8th scale gas on road. I am getting back into electric but just for fun- and I'm having trouble deciding whether or not to upgrade: I have a TC3 + rallye conversion kit and it's a blast. Its also quite old technolgoy at this point, BUT still fun... I'm trying to decide if its worth the upgrade to either TC5, XXX-s or similar kit... I love the new Serpent S400 - however at 400-500 bucks its NO bargain, PLUS, I'm not racing competitively anyway- so I certainly don't want to spend a ton for no reason.. Im basically torn, because i LOVE to build- which is why i'm comtemplating building a new kit.. on the other hand, I have a nice TC3 with all the trimmings.. would you stay TC3, or would you build a new kit? If you'd build a new one, WHICH one, for street (NOT track) fun????
Posted on: 1/9/2008 2:03 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6880180
RE: RC Car Simulator / Game
do you know the nuances of this product?? I see they are up to 3.5 rev - how much better is this than the 3.2 rev?? I would like to get something that'll help me practice when i cant be on the track. let mek now what you think, how much i should pay, and should i look for any 1 specific rev of the game, perhaps most ideally suited for 8th on road???
Posted on: 8/23/2007 11:13 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6276529
RC Car Simulator / Game
Anyone know of a Simulator or Game for driving RC cars? (Other than the old ass one for the original nintendo!!!) I would love to practice 1/8 scale on road when i don't have the tiime to get to the track... if anyone knows of anything worth checking out, please post! thanks -nick scud
Posted on: 8/23/2007 10:43 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6276448
Red and Blue clutch shoes.. Interesting
Hey- anyone out there racing 8th scale track with Red or blue clutch shoes?? They're like triple the price, and lately I hear more and more people using them... Regardless, I've heard mixed things. Would love to know you experience(s) with them -- Are they more consistent? Do they late longer and have a longer lasting sweet-spot??
Posted on: 8/23/2007 10:32 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6276409
RE: MRX-4R 0R SERPENT 960/ 07
First- I wish there were more 1/8 on road supporters in general- both on this board, and in real life. It's such a cool category- when you see these things on the track, up-shifting to second just tearing ass around the back into the straight, it's just COOL AS HELL!!! As for engines to get: I'm using an NS21P for now - it broke in really nice. I have to say, Nova's are easily the best motors I've used thus far- they are (at least for me) by far the most consistent all around. I also like the mag-cooled ninjas. THere's a guy at my local track running one and it is really serious. I will step up to a +35 Nova for racing season, but the 21p is a good practice engine. Nova make s a great 2 engine kit where you get a 21p and then a +35 for racing. Unless you're running a-mains, DONT bother getting a super-mill. My opinion is just stay with (more affordable) 21p and practice your butt off - Learn how to drive the car around your track well. Start competing in the B Mains and get good (and comfortable) with what you have. As you step up to A's, then you'll have to decide what mill to go with- but again, I say stay with Nova +35 or the Ninja- they seem to be the best overall, comparatively. I saw a few of the top guys at FBF running both and in fact a few of them were running so good they were shifting in the infield!!! Man, those little bastards were screaming - and forget about the straight- just FLYING. Personally, the best advice I have to anyone running these is DONT get the hi-perf motor until you're really good. DONT CRASH!!! Run the cheaper engine and DO NOT CRASH - this will save you money and let you hone in your skills before you step up. Everything in stride... Especially with on-road 8th- even the small crashes cost lots of money and add to wasted time in terms of setup revisions. Better to stay "slow" (believe me - "Slow" in the 8th on-road world is BLISTERING compared to anything else - slow is 60-65mph...) When you finally learn how to punt that little thing around the track quickly, without kissin' the wall, THEN step up to a serious mill, and re-start your learning curve.. At least you'll have all the practice under your belt now to help you no crash. Just my 2c. See you on the track...
Posted on: 8/23/2007 8:38 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6276077
RE: Cutting Tires and Chassis Setups - Questions for the Racers Out There...
Im having no luck with my clutch questions on my native post, so i guess I'll try here since more people appear to be reading: I would like to have a better understanding of how these on-road clutches work- obviously they're quite different then the 3-shoe 1-speed clutches like on my mbx5t. I understand HOW it works- but what im asking is what is the trick to setting the gap - its like i get the clutch to slip "just right" for a little bit at a time, but then i keep having to back off the nut just a bit (like every 6 or 7 tanks) otherwise it "over-slips". Alot of guys have told me you do it a few times and finally the clutch will bed-in- kinda like a brek-in period, and then i won't have to touch it for a while. But what's "a while" is it normal to have to reset this eff-ing clutch nut every 1/2 dozen tanks?!?!?!
Posted on: 8/21/2007 7:36 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6269162
What is the best Chassis-Setup tool out there???
I was considering buying the HUDY all-in-one... it's like 300 bucks, but seems to have everything. If anyone's got a better suggestion (either cheaper with all the tools OR just a different idea that does an equally great job) I would love to hear. I like that the HUDY is all in one- but perhaps someone else makes the same all-in-one only cheaper?? would like to know. thanks -nms
Posted on: 8/20/2007 11:22 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6262309
RE: MRX4-R: Clutch Gap / Shim Help- Questions
BUMP....
Posted on: 8/20/2007 11:20 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6262303
MRX4-R: Clutch Gap / Shim Help- Questions
Hey all. First, big thanks to all the guys at FBF, mad cool crew and really supportive. Big up to FBF. I'm having a tough time with a Mugen clutch and could use some advice: Originally, I over-tightened the clutch-nut while building it: After toasting a yellow shoe (because I screwed up the spring by overtighening it) I replaced the following: New MSR super-hard spring, Grey Shoe, New fly-weights also. I worked about 8 tanks today, it seemed pretty ok at approx. 1.08mm w/ 4 or 5 shims INSIDE the bell (underneath inner-bearing) and then 2 shims OUTSIDE the bell (outside the outer bearing). However toward the end, the clutch started to seem a little 'slippy'. Can anyone enlighten me on proper clutch shims and gap please? I can't tell you how many god-damned times I had to take apart the speed-housings to keep screwiing with the clutch tension. Today, for a decent while it felt like it had kinda bedded-in, and I was able to run 6 tanks or so without screwing with the clutch tension. But then I took another run and the clutch kinda felt "slippy" -- As it was, I felt like I went through the process of backing-off the nut, to prevent this- and sure enough I got than 6 tanks of fuel. But then it started slipping again... what's the secret?!?!?! I'd like to know approx. what the ideal gap is - Also, once the disc is broken in and the clutch kinda stops requiring adustment (I know this happens cause the guys at the track explained it this way) - my question is how long can I expect a disc to last once it breaks in? Thanks again all - this has benn a helluva learning curve, switching from off-road to on, but it's been fun and everyone's been really helpful, so thanks
Posted on: 8/19/2007 11:54 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6260851
Does anyone else feel that Spektrum Servos SUCK???
, please give me a name and contact number so I can get this thing replaced. many thanks -scud man
Posted on: 8/15/2007 2:44 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Car Radio Equipment"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6241985
RE: MRX-4R 0R SERPENT 960/ 07
BRO - I'm new to on-road too - but I'm going really well with it so far... Do yourselff a favor and do EXACTLY what foxy told you: BUY WHATEVER ONE YOUR LOCAL SHOP SUPPORTS!!!!! It doesn't matter which one you have- they are both super competitive and both more than capable of winning- it commes down to driver skills - the better driver will win with either chassis. Make it easy on yourself- take whichever one is better supported by your local shop: 1) shit DOES break - you will need to buy conveniently from your shop- rather than having to wait for parts thru mail and losing practice time on the track 2) MAINTANENCE IS REQUIRED (see Point 1) 3) Crashes DO happen!!! (also see Point 1) trust me - buy whichever kit your local shop likes better- they're the people who will give you support to make make you succcessful in this hobby- and without support, as a newbie, you are SCREWED. Buy the one the shop supports better.
Posted on: 8/13/2007 11:37 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6232148
Cutting Tires and Chassis Setups - Questions for the Racers Out There...
- or otherwise NOT spend it - so again any input would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys! -scud
Posted on: 8/13/2007 11:33 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6232125
Official: Hottest LOLA Paint Jobs...
Hey Guys- let's see the hottest paint out there... let 'er rip...
Posted on: 7/31/2007 12:32 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6179071
Pre-Build; MXR4R - Need Advice, Please Help Me Out...
Hi Guys: I have jumped across a line... Last night I could resist no longer- I went out and bought a kit MRX4R and a Nova... I am basically hoping a few key MRX4 guys see my post and decide to contribute some helpful words of advice, as I literally have zero experience in this arena: First: Any building tips to bear in mind with the kit? I have to admit, I flipped through the instruction manual and it seems to me that the instructions were MUCH better with my MBX5t kit.. I noticed a few obvious ommissions, for example - the MRX4 booklet does NOT call for thread-lock on the engine mount screws.. Somehow I feel this is in error- could it actually be that on-road cars don't call for thread-lock??? Second: ANY ABSOLUTELY NECESARY UPGRADE PARTS BEFORE I BEGIN BUILDING??? I figure I might as well go through this and built it the best way the FIRST time. The only upgrade parts I have thus far are aluminum made upper-arm mounts in front- meaning the bulkheads where the front upper arms mount with the hinge-pin, to the chassis. The hobby shop guy was specific and said it makes total sense to have these, since the plastic ones will break with little 'effort'... If any of you experienced MRX4R guys have any others parts to advise, I would love to hear from you. Three: Looks like the 'clutch situation' is a little different here, then it is on my truggy/buggy kits... Anyone have any links to some good "Street-Cars 101" where I can learn about how the BOTH clutches work on this car?? I would really like to understand things better, and from reading through the manual, there are alot of vague spots and I'm afraid I'm going to mal-adjust something or screw up this kit.. Thanks guys- again, I've got many years of experience, but with very different animals.. It's a little daunting, but I've been thinking about jumping into 4wd on-road for a while, and I'm happy I bought the kit... now I just wanna assemble it correctly!
Posted on: 7/30/2007 10:55 AM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6173893
RE: Orion .28 Idling Funny (or not at all) please help
Guys- just a heads up, I (obviously) fixed my clutch -- that little Orion COOKS - has excellent top end, very respectable mid range and seems to tune up pretty decently. I have to admit, it is a little picky- like for instance I got my top and bottom end pretty right on, but it seems to idle a little quick- so perhaps i have too lean LSN.. but I have to say, it broke in really nicely, has about 1/2 gallon through it and has held a decent tune so far. It blows away the HPI big block ho i had, by a landslide. it also runs substantially more efficiently than the HPI too... just a heads up- i hear lots of negative things about this mill- but for practice and having fun, it seems like a great way to save a few hundo to me... we'll see how she keeps her compression as time goes on
Posted on: 11/14/2006 3:21 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4995479
RE: Offical Mugen MBX5T thread
Some New Pics w the new ProLine crowd pleazer... Still wish there were more bodies for this kit!
Posted on: 11/13/2006 10:58 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4993131
RE: Orion .28 Idling Funny (or not at all) please help
UMMM- Disregard this- can you say "two bad clutch springs" ... DOH
Posted on: 11/9/2006 9:16 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4976847
Orion .28 Idling Funny (or not at all) please help
Hi guys. I started breaking in my Orion .28 on an MBX5t today. I got through at least 6 or 7 tanks full - however it was a very picky idler the whole time. I heat cycled it, basically running it 5 minutes a clip, then shutting down to cool at BDC - I always do it this way and have broken in a number of engines succesfully. Op temp was kept between 185 and 200 the whole time- with at least 5 or 6 cool downs. At first, the first few tanks, it would idle, but under throttle it would cut out. Now, it requires a tiny bit of throttle to start, will run under throttle but is really being a bitch idling. If and when it will actually idle (pro'lly like 1/2 the time- otherwise it just cuts out) usually with a little gas it will cut out. any ideas here?
Posted on: 11/9/2006 7:58 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4976480
MOVED: Orion .28 Idling Funny (or not at all) please help
Car Nitro & Gas Engines: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4976480
Posted on: 11/9/2006 7:58 PM by Author "scud"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4976544
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