RE: Thunder AC6 Charger Question: Connection Break
I have that charger. It works fine but the instructions are not great. Read the instructions again! Hint - the charger does not charge thru the balance plug.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 10:54 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925234

RE: Hobby King really sucks...
Gotta agree that really sucks! They should let you use your credit period. Chalk it up to a lesson learned. I've purchased from them twice once using pay pal and once using a credit card. Never had trouble but I still don't trust them. Using a method of payment that does not provide some way to get your money back in case of fraud is foolish. Won't western union refund your money? What they did sounds like fraud to me.
Posted on: 6/10/2011 12:11 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10566881

RE: Making Forum Replies with SmartPhone
Not the identical problem but close. When I get an email with a link to a forum which has more than one page, I can only read the current page that the link took me to. If the topic has say two pages the link always takes me to page 2. If I decide I want to read page 1 I choose the page number and it takes me there. But then the same thing happens - RCU kicks me out completely and I have to use the email to get back to the topic. I'm also on a Droid. This happens constantly by the way. I think Google and RCU don't play well with each other. The only work around I have found is going via the browser then it doesn't kick me out. So the probably seems related to the emails RCU sends out. Shaggy
Posted on: 5/10/2011 9:35 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Forum questions or problems"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10511963

RE: HOW-TO Make Fiberglass Cowlings using Balloons
Thanks for sharing. If I ever need to make my own, I'll remember your technique.
Posted on: 12/10/2010 8:56 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10188357

RE: Do you check CG with a full tank of fuel or empty
Yeah them batteries get heavier when you change em. Lol
Posted on: 12/8/2010 11:26 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10184448

RE: Landing gear question Tower arf trainer 40
Ok. Playing devils advocate here because if I had to remove the landing gear to straighten it every time, I'd get fed up with it pretty quickly. I just carefully bend the gear without ripping it out of the fuselage. The weak main gear will bend easily on almost every landing. But it will teach you to grease your touchdowns. When you can do that regularly, you'll be so sick of the wire gear. You'll take it off and replace with something better. Wouldn't take it off for a year or so though, the wire gear absorbs a lot of rough landings. I've not had any damage from bending the gear. If you do, on a tower trainer, it probably Needed to be beefed up anyway.
Posted on: 12/6/2010 9:29 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10180169

RE: Tower trainer
I have the 40 size arf and still sometimes fly it although I've done quite a few mods to it this past summer. I think it is good trainer but I've flown others I think fly better as trainers go. It is built quite strong and can withstand the abuse a total novice will dish out. I now fly mine with an OS 55ax and it flys much better. The tower trainer will work just fine.
Posted on: 12/6/2010 9:02 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10180122

RE: looking to slow my trainner down without a new engine?
I too have the tower trainer 40 it does fly like its too heavy.
Posted on: 10/17/2010 8:01 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10075043

RE: Spinners
My first thought is it's not the fault of the spinner.
Posted on: 9/30/2010 9:35 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10037637

Had a little boo-boo
Well this is what happens when you get used to landing from one direction only. All summer long we've been landing from the north to the south. Now with a change in weather the wind has started coming form the north. I've completely forgotten how to land from the south to the north. On takiing I ran completely off the runway and smacked the wing into a pipe which holds the barriers we have set up along the runway. Stupid me couldn't figure out how to taxi straight from that direction. Also was going way too fast. What's funny, is last year I used to land just fine coming from the south and remember having trouble getting used to landing from the north. Gotta practice approach and landings and taxi from both directions all the time... Got luck though, I managed to avoid any other damage by steering away from the engine and fuse so the only damage is what you see here. Already have most of it repaired except for some smoothing out of the wing sheeting, and recover. Will require some filler and fine sanding. Should be ready to fly again in a week or so. A little worried about the weight, but the damaged area is close to the the center of where the wing was joined so it should be ok, even if a little heavier. Used a lot of CA but no epoxy. One spar almost completely shreded but CAed back together. Could have been a lot worse. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/28/2010 9:29 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10032799

RE: Great Planes Escapade .40 ARF
Gotta say, I don't see the big problem. This plane almost always always seems to comes out tail heavy. At least that seems to be the common theme on most posts. But, if you add the necessary weight or move things around as necessary to balance it, it flies great. In my case the weight was made up, up front, by my choice of engine, a Saito 56 and a 6 volt receiver battery right on top of the fuel tank. Had I gone with a lighter engine, like a 46 2 stroke and a 4 cell battery, I have not doubt I would have had to add weight up front too. But I have no doubt the plane would still fly the same. So, Irish... don't make a big problem where you've only got a little one. Suggest you do your best to move things around to eliminate or lessen the amount of weight you'll have to add. Consider putting a brace under the front cheeks and adding weight there. The cheeks tend to flap and weaken anyway so a brace will help prevent the seam and firewall joint from breaking. Or go with a 6 volt (5 cell) battery. It won't make much difference IMHO in how the plane will fly. Mine does feel a little heavy in the air but it still flies nicely and you'll just need to fly it and see for yourself. I really like my escapade. For me the most annoying thing was the flimsy tail wheel setup. The guys at the field told me not to worry about it and to just fly the tail, but my tail wheel wouldn't even stand up straight and would flop around, making taxiing almost impossible. After I changed it, it handles great on the ground. Balance it (whatever it takes) and fly it. Don't worry so much about about if you have to add one ounce or 15. Unless something is seriously wrong, which I doubt, you'll still end up with a good flying plane. And when you've flown her, let us know how it went. Good Luck Shaggy
Posted on: 9/28/2010 9:02 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10032756

Disaster Averted!
Well the RC Gods were with me again today. Didn't crash but it could have been a realy bad situation. Club had our meeting today and as customary we all do a little flying afer the official stuf is over. I had my yak and escapade again and after flying and putting away the escapade I flew the yak twice. I had leaned out the low end a little because she was smoking quite a bit at mid range so I brought her in early to lean it out some more. When I started up for what would have been her 3rd flight of the day. I was alarmed to get full wide open throttle and no control. My first thought was to turn off the transmitter and let the DX7 failsafe lower the trottle. But when I turned off the transmitter I got nothing! Still WOT!. Well my next thought was pinch off the fuel line, but this plane has everything except the muffler inside the cowl. So now its been WOT for what seems like too long but in reality was only about (5 to 10 seconds) Finally I decided to smother the muffler which of course worked and killed the engine. Fortunately for me I always bring a roll of paper towels for clean up and usually keep one or two in my pocket to wipe my hands before handling the transmitter. Hate a slippery transmitter. So I was able to smother the engine without getting my fingers burned by the muffler. I was at a loss for a minute or two and wondering. Well you know (insert your own expletives!) Did I just suffer a brown out or complete signal loss. Couldn't remember if I had any other control because I was thinking trottle, trottle, trottle - kill the engine. So I turned off the transmitter and receiver and turned them back on. I checked the controls and trottle and it went to idle no problem. (cant see the carb or the end of the contro rod which is inside the cowl) So I fire up the engine again and you guessed it same thing! But I had all controls except the ability to lower the trottle or kill the engine. After removing the cowl I discovered that my trottle control linkage had come disconnected. Using nyrod with short pieces of treaded rod. The treaded rod had completely pulled out of the nyrod but would push the loose end just enough to go to idle. But as soon as I start up, the spring on the carb lever would take the engine to full trottle. Which brings me to another question. Why are saito's made this way. The spring on the carb goes to open not to close? Anyway, that's another debate. Now just imagine if the control rod had come loose in the air? At worst, it could have happened at the worst time and the plane ended up in splinters and a total loss! At best, I could have been forced to fly with WOT for the rest of the flight all the while trying to do so in preparation for a dead stick landing when it finally ran out of fuel. That could have been really, really ugly too. Had I crashed the first time it happened I would have sworn I had a complete signal loss and you guessed it blamed my radio. And the disconnected control rod would have been attributed to the crash, which whould have disconnected a lot of things! And oh by the way, the trottle failsafe of the DX7 works just fine. The servo just wasn't connected to the control rod so it couldn't lower the trottle when I turned off the transmitter. But I think this is what happens in the case of many crashes in that the very first thing that comes to mind is that the radio has failed. And in the case of a crash, that's what you're going to continue to believe. Not that there aren't legitimate signal loss issues out there because I'm sure they are. (so lets not get on that debate -enough of that going on already) But this experience has taught me that it's the first thing that comes to mind. Anyway, actually check your controls from time to time folks. I know we just move the sticks and go we're good. But , maybe if I had removed the cowl more often and looked at things I might have seen this coming and fixed it sooner. This bird has only about 7 months of flight time and I'm surprised the nyrod stripped out. I only had about a half inch screwed in but normally that's enough to hold for a long time. IAnd I really don't like to remove the cowl because I have to remove the prop and the muffler and...you know the drill. I've repaired the control already and will fly it again tomorrow, but I'm seriously considering getting rid of the nyrod all together and going with straight wire instead. Not that, that will prevent another near or actual crash but it should prevent a similar break. Have fun flying but check out those controls carefully from time to time. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/18/2010 10:31 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10011709

RE: Great Planes Spinners and APC Props Not Compatible?
Sounds like that little pin is not necessary after all. Thanks all. I will know for next time to just cut them off without worry. As for the cheesy plastic spinners well what can I say. They are flimsy for sure. But, they have worked just fine for me so far, and don't look bad on my little plane(s). Besides, I'm just not that good yet. Still scratch-in em up and break em every once in awhile. Just like props, I like pro-zingers on my yak and escapade. But they break too easily. So I now fly with the MA on the yak because they last longer by taking a little more abuse before I am forced to replace them. If I had been flying with an MA on the Escapade, that little nose-over would not have cost me a prop. When I no longer break them so frequently, I may consider some nicer stuff. But until then I figure why throw away 30 to 50 dollars on a spinner when I can throw away 5? But knowing me, I may never spend that much for a spinner when the cheaper 5 to 10 dollar ones will do. Shaggy.
Posted on: 9/17/2010 10:06 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10009832

RE: Saito 100 Questions
Well if yours has lasted that long I must not be doing something right. I may just remove the cowl again and give that a try. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/17/2010 9:48 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10009774

RE: Saito 100 Questions
OK guys, Appreciate the responses. I guess the sensitivity is normal. And you're right it is the whole barrel moving when I insert the screwdriver. I'm going flying tomorrow morning and will try to lean out the LSN some. I kinda hate to do that because I already have a problem with getting the idle to slow down with that engine because as you know the leaner I make it the faster it wants to run so I'll have to play with the trim as I lean it out. But at least now I know the excessive smoking at mid-range is caused by the LSN being rich. So just knowing that is half the solution right? As for the HSN knob. Well I don't really have a knob per say just a short piece of wire the diameter of the hole in the HSN and just long enough to exit the cowl and about a quarter inch bent at 90 degrees so I can easily turn it. It weights nothing and I'd think is not of any significant weight. Not at all like the beautiful knob installed by you Gary. But you're probably right in that it's a combination of the weight and engine vibration causing a loosening of the set screw. My 100 doesn't vibrate all that much (relatively speaking of course) And when I lean out the low end it will vibrate a little less but I still think I'm in for loosing this thing again if I don't do something better. I'd hate to resort to having to weld something together like you did. Don't get me wrong, it looks nice, but I'm surprised that the best we've been able to do is a set screw that is always going to come loose? Hate to ruin a good HSN by welding something to it, but if it is my only option I may have to consider it. Someone needs to make an adjustable length HSN or something. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/17/2010 6:38 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10009434

Great Planes Spinners and APC Props Not Compatible?
Well it has been a few months since I've broken a prop on the planes I've been flying, but as sometimes happens I made a little boobo while taxiing and ran off the runway. Broke the Zinger pro prop from a nose -over in the rough weeds lining our field. Didn't have anymore Zingers with me so I thought I'd try one of the APC 12X6s I had in my box for what I thought would be for just such an occasion. Surprised me that although the prop was the correct size, it would not fit with the GP 2 1/4 spinner on my plane. And I'm not just talking about needing to cut out a little more room for the spinner to clear the prop hub. I"m talking about those two little protrusions (or pins) on the spinner backplate that seem to be there to prevent the prop from spinning inside the spinner. If using the APC prop, the screws holding the front of the spinner to the backplate will not line up with the holes on the backplate because the APC hub is so much bigger than the Zinger of the same size. The only way I can see for the APC to work with the GP spinner, is if I broke off one or both of those little pins. I decided not to break them since I had more zinger props at home. I could have just flown without the spinner but I had another plane to fly so I just did that instead. But I'm surprised that the Great Planes spinners are made that way. Seems foolish to make it so you can't use common props. I've got some MA props too but haven't tried one of them with the GP spinner yet. They have pretty big hubs too. Just curious if this is common and I'm just now finding out. Also has anyone broken off those little tabs off the backplate of their spinner and not had their prop spin? I guess if the prop nut is tight it shouldn't spin but I'm guessing those little pins are there for a good reason? In case it matters, the plane is an escapade with the saito 56 (four -stroke). Appreciate any responses. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/17/2010 2:11 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10008878

RE: Dead sticks are ok
good job. but i have a more luck than skill deadstick story. doing this on my phone so excuse the brevity and fat finger typos. my beloved yak deadstiked about two months ago. way too far away to even consider coming back and way too low already. to make things worse, we fly on an airforce base and near old weapons storage area so it has those big burms. little hills that look like bunkers. well guess where my yack was going down. quarter mile away and behind a bunker. as i was about to loose sight of the plane i quickly flipped to high rates and imagined her in my mind and gently put her down on the other side of the bunker. after i got the cops to escort me into the area i realized how lucky i got but were it not for my last minute fly it till the last piece is dowm. she could have been a total loss. she wa sitting right side up. and the main landing gear was about 3 feet behind her. otherwise she was perfect. skill is good. but luck helps. shaggy
Posted on: 9/14/2010 3:42 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10001883

Saito 100 Questions
So I was flying my 60 size yak with a saito 100 this past weekend. Great couple days of flying, but I've a few questions for anyone familiar with the Saito 100 or maybe it relates to all four stokes. I've noticed that at about half throttle I'm getting a lot of smoke. Seems to run just fine at WOT and at idle but the mid range smokes so much it looks like I'm using smoke. Is this normal? Or am I still too rich on the high end? I love this engine and have been flying it for about 6 months or so. At first I had it running great using powermaster 20/20 but when I couldn't get that anyomre I changed to wildcat. Now I've gone back to the powermaster since I can get it again. So I had to retune the engine each time. I may not have retuned properly this last time. Just want to get an idea of which direction I should be going. I did have to mess with both the low and high end when I retuned for the wildcat and back to the new powermaster fuel. I'm thinking I"m still too rich but it runs go great at idle and almost WOT I thought I had it right. Second question: When I'm adjusting the LSN, all I have to do is just insert the screwdriver into the slot and it affects the idle (leans it). I mean I haven't turned the idle screw, just putting the screwdriver in the slot affects the idle. That lets me think that my idle screw is sloppy loose. But it doesn't feel loose, in that its snug to turn. So it's not moving from where I set it. Is this also normal? The engine is in a cowl so I'm going through a hole I've made in the cowl for accessing the LSN but this sensitivity doesn't seem right to me. I'm going to remove the cowl and try to figure this out but again any advice is appreciated. Last question: So I've made up a little handle (bent landing gear wire) going through the cowl and into the HSN so I can make adjustment. But on my last flight I noticed the thing was sloppy loose. So not wanting to loose it, I loosened the set-crew, reinserted the little handle and retightened it. Well at the end of that flight I still lost the thing. Made another one but it wont surprise me to loose that one after a few flights too. So, whats a good way to go here? There has to be a better way? I don't want to over-tighten and/or strip that little set-screw in the HSN. Anyone know any tricks that might last a while? I'd post this in the Saito thread but who wants to search though over 700 pages to find a reply? Thanks in advance. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/14/2010 11:33 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10001328

RE: HELP!!! Escapade.
A spinner weight may work just fine. Although that 46LA doesn't need anything slowing it down, you may be ok going that route. But I've never used a spinner weight. This is what worked for me: You might consider going with a little heavier receiver battery. You could use a 6Volt 2700 nmh. (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=JRPB5008). This battery will fit on top of the fuel tank and will be a snug fit when strapped to the tank and have just enough room for the canopy to install and remove easily. You'll also get the added advantage of 6 volts for your servos (higher torque with a little faster movements). And of course you'll get the added nose weight you need. Don't know if this will be enough in your case because the LA is so light. This is what worked for me. But I"m using a saito 56 up front and with the 6V battery the balance came out perfect. In fact I'm now considering shifting the CG a little to the rear to make practicing knife edges easier. More food for thought. Those cheeks on the sides of the engine used to vibrate an awful lot on mine and I've since installed a brace just under the front which solved the problem. Just a nice strong piece of plywood glued across the front of the cheeks. Hardly see it unless you turn the plane over. Just make sure it would never interfere with removing the engine. That could also serve double duty for some weight if necessary. Another two birds with one stone...not that you'll have the cheeks vibrate on yours. I'm sure it depends on the choice of engine and prop and such. Whichever way you go, unnecessary weight is always my last resort. But increased voltage for the receiver and servos I don't consider unnecessary. Besides 6 volts is the way to go with spektrum anyway. If you're not already using a 6 volt this will certainly help shift the CG forward and lessen any dead weight you may have to add. Good luck. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/14/2010 1:25 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10000620

RE: Powermaster fuel?? No more?
Powermaster is back on the shelves at my LHS. Has been for about a month or so now. Almost through the first gallon of 20/20 new stuff and also ran some of the 15%. Can't say it's the same but it runs just as good as the old stuff. Shaggy
Posted on: 9/12/2010 6:37 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9997303

RE: OS 55 AX
JC - The prop is definately an 11 X 7. I got both master airscrew and some APCs. Have had the MA on it f since I first switched from the breakin prop which I think was 12 X 7 or 12 X 8. Didn't like how it flew with the 12X prop but love how it flies with the 11 x 7. Try it and let me know if I'm crazy. Mike109 - Great you got your LA rebuilt. I have wondered if mine could use a rebuild too but haven't touched it since I took it off the trainer except to put some after run oil in it. I will fire it up one of these days and do need to find something to put it in.
Posted on: 9/11/2010 7:32 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9995465

RE: OS 55 AX
This is quite a coincidence because mine is also the tower trainer. I had a tough time with my LA as mike109 might remember. Got a lot of advice from him (among others) about it. So I know this is going to be a little hard to believe but this is the truth I promise (LOL) I was enjoying a nice day of flying and had the trainer and my escapade out at the field. I was doing touch and goes with the trainer for about 4 or 5 flights. I'd just landed because I knew I was low on fuel and was taxiing back when it ran out of fuel. (Also something I could never do with the LA -run a full tank of fuel till empty - but that's another story) Anyway, the engine quit. And I was walking out to get the plane which was just sitting on the runway. A freaky gust of wind picked up the plane, turned it upside down and slammed it onto the asphalt. It landed perfectly on on the top of both wings and the rudder. Snapped the wings exactly where they were joined and broke the rudder a little as well. I was the only one at the field so I have no witnesses other than the RC Gods. But its all true. Had I done something (else) real stupid besides flying on a day with gusty winds, I'd admit to it no problem. But I like the challenge of a little wind. It makes flying more fun and a challenge to land. Wind gusts were I guess about 10 MPH or so, except for that one which made me pack up my toys and go home. (LOL So now my trainer needs some work before it will be flyable again. Other than the split wing and broken rudder the plane is just kind of well beat up from about 3 years of abuse. You know, packing tape on the wing tips covering the skuff marks and tape in various places where there was a puncture or loose strips of covering. Also I might have crushed a rib or two. So a good check up and repair of the wing is in order. I take the damage as a sign from the RC Gods to refurbish the trainer. The fact that the wing broke so perfectly down the center joint was fortuitous I think also. It could have snapped in the air and the whole plane could have been a total loss. I remember years ago folding the wings on a Falcon 56. How I loved to fly that plane...obviously a little too much. I still like flying my trainer and it is my favorite "warm up the fingers" plane. The Tower is built like a brick and flys like one too. I just hope by taking out most of the dihedral I don't make it not fun to fly anymore. Oh, one more thing. After I broke in the OS 55 and flew a couple times, I went to a different prop and liked it better. I want to say an 11 X 7 but I could be wrong. I"d have to remove the spinner to be sure. If you really want to know just ask and I'll confirm it for you. Shaggy Shaggy.
Posted on: 9/10/2010 9:10 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9993653

RE: OS 55 AX
I used the break in method listed in the manual. See page 27. Its rich slow four cycle for 10 seconds, then two cycle for 10 seconds until the first tank is empty. There's more so be sure to read it all. Did it right on the plane and it has run great since. No dead sticks, smooth transitions with plenty of power. After its warmed up I can start it with a just a back flip of the spinner by hand. If you follow the break in instructions I don't think you'll have any trouble with it, and you'll find it a joy to fly. And yeah the "customer service" folks on the phone don't always know what they're talking about. It seems to depend on just whom you get. I got better info right here on RCU. I bought the 55 to replace an OS46 LA I had on my old trainer and is the first engine I've had in a long time that I did not break-in on a test stand. Just last weekend a gust of wind broke the wings apart on my old trainer and I'm considering putting the 55 into something else while I refurb the trainer. I could just glue it back together, but that's too easy and not a lot of fun. I'm thinking of striping the center section and putting in less dihedral and then recovering the wing joint section. Should make for little livelier trainer and I can always put another engine on the trainer or put the 55 back. Enjoy Shaggy.
Posted on: 9/10/2010 7:21 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9993435

RE: OS 55 AX
jc i have been flying my os 55 almost every weekend since i started this post. no poblems with with the drive hub as is. break it in an d have fun. shaggy
Posted on: 9/10/2010 2:09 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9992823

Incidental Repairs - Tower trainer 40 MK II ARF
Well I had a nice few flights yesterday with my old trainer, a tower 40 with an OS 55AX. Doing touch and goes and just getting the fingers warmed up for the other plane I was going to fly (an escapade). After landing the trainer I was just about out of gas and was taxiing back when she quit. As I walked out onto the runway and reached to pick up the plane a freak gust of wind picked up the plane, turned it upside down and slamed it back onto the asphalt. She hit hard, and perfectly on the top of the wings and rudder. The rudder was cracked (not too badly) and the wings split exactly where it was joined. I doubt I could have cut it more perfectly if I had tried. Maybe my epoxy job was a little weak? This bird is about 3 years old and other than the other incidental repairs I've done ( packing tape everywhere, replaced wire landing gear and bigger engine) has held up to a lot of abuse. So now I'm thinking its time to straighen out all that diehedral (spelling?) that tower put into this plane. Seeing as how the RC-Gods have given me the go-ahead. So, has anyone ever straighted out the wings on a tower trainer? Should I make it completely straight? Or leave just a little when I rejoin the wings? And if I should leave a little how would I go about getting just the right amount? I'm really thinking just make it straight, but I"d hate to make it totally not fun to fly anymore. It is my only trainer and obviously still like to fly it . I'd appreciate any advice on which way to go on rejoining the wing(s). Thanks Shaggy
Posted on: 9/6/2010 11:45 AM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9983751

RE: Is Powermaster still in business?
Well powermaster is back on the shelves at my lhs. Piicked up a couple gallons today. Anyone tried it since the change in management? Hope it's as good as I remember.
Posted on: 9/4/2010 10:28 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "RC Fuels"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9980973

RE: Escapade
Don't know if I just got lucky but my canopy fit perfectly. Snug and secure. And my magnets hold. I did replace the tail wheel assembly with the one from tower. A cheap fix at two dollars. My escapade was a bargain and for my first great planes arf I am quite satisfied with the build quality. And its fun to fly.
Posted on: 9/4/2010 3:52 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9980338

RE: Airplane Storage Method Pros and Cons
Now thats something to consider. The tank plug leaking over time.
Posted on: 8/18/2010 9:36 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9943825

RE: Airplane Storage Method Pros and Cons
Sounds like its not how you store them but how long Thanks
Posted on: 8/18/2010 7:31 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9943567

RE: Great Planes Escapade .40 ARF
My escapade also has a buzz I think because of those cheeks vibrating. I too plan to install abrace of some kind. The vibration weakens the joint at the firewall and cheek. Shaggy
Posted on: 8/18/2010 5:03 PM by Author "shaggy48" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9943233