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RE: Best Engine for GP Christian Eagle?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ShoestringRacer I'm having a hard time deciding on a powerplant. I have a NIB ZDZ 40 RV with a pitts muffler tapped for smoke which is what I was thinking of using. But do you guys think the 40 is too small, meaning I need a 50cc? I was also considering a Fuji 50 (and maybe the Fuji 62 also) but I know they are heavier and being I would like a smoke system the ZDZ makes better sense. What do you guys think? Would the lighter weight of the ZDZ 40 make it desirable and enough power compared to maybe a little more power from the Fuji, but the Fuji being heavier in weight also. What say you? [/quote]A ZDZ-40 will outpower a Fuji 50. I have a Poulan 50cc in mine. Almost unlimited vertical. My ZDZ-40 matches my Poulan 50 in RPM. The only difference is the Poulan is about 8 oz heavier. A ZDZ-40 will do fine.
Posted on: 4/20/2004 3:00 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1740548
RE: R149DP receiver
Servos don't care what position they are in. Analog servos generate a pulse from the pot connected to the output shaft. It is compared to the incoming pulse. The difference is sent to the moter. So the more the servo is off the position desired, the more currrent it will draw (the longer the pulse is sent to the motor.) If there is binding, the servo will continuously try to get to the position. The moter will continuously draw current trying to hold the position against the binding. Once the motor starts moving, it draws less current. A stalled servo will likely overheat an kill your batts. They are never designed to operate this way. Digital servos are similar, but thir current is less dependant on the difference in the position from the radio and the output position. The main difference is digtal servos canl draw much more current to move a small distance. Also their position is updated more freqently. As to the original problem, it sounds like something shook loose in the receiver.
Posted on: 3/15/2004 1:43 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1625459
RE: Questions about Lead Acid batteries
Usually not. Some motorcycle batts have a compund that is designed to protect the plates if it is over-discharged. If left alone, this collects on the plates and needs to be removed by drawing current. Something about preventing buildup of sulfates. I have seen these. You try to draw current and you get little current. It slowly builds up current as this compond is driven off the plates. The batt I had (a $70 Yuasa) that advertised this "protection" did not last any longer than any $15 batt I've had. Lead-Acid batts do not need to be cycled. I have seen them provide better current when partially cycled. I had an old batt that would barely turn over my starter. I cycled it a few times (down to 12v) and it got better. But once it starts losng current, the plates are starting to deteriorate. It will be a losing battle from there. Don't worry about cycling them. Worry more about overcharging them.
Posted on: 3/15/2004 1:26 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1625428
RE: US Engines 41 Starting Procedure
[quote]ORIGINAL: fenderjw I am new to the gasser engine arena and I picked up a used (actually brand new, but w/o the box and instructions) US Engines 41cc gasser this past weekend at Perry. I have done some reading and I think I understand how this beast is supposed to be started, but I would appreciate any input that anyone might have about starting the engine and adjusting the carb. So, here goes: Question 1: I installed the kill switch on the ignition coil. I checked the continuity and the switch is good. So, am I correct in assuming that when the switch is on (closed) that the engine is off (grounded)? [/quote] That is correct.[quote] I installed the prop at 90 degrees to the magnets. I will fill the tank with fuel, then choke it to get fuel into the carb. Question 2: There is no choke on the engine so should I just use my finger over the carb? Next I'll lower the throttle to idle and wind up the prop (engine has a spring starter) After I let her go (after a coupla tries of course), the engine should start right? [/quote]Yes a finger works fine. Usually 2-3 flips.[quote] Question 3: Now how should I go about adjusting the carb (walbro)? [/quote]Similar to glow. Full throttle adjust for highest RPM then about 1/8 turn richer. Adjust idle for best transition off of idle. Most Walbros: Idle: 1 1/4 turn High: 1 1/2 turn. The idle needle is almost always closer to the engine. Don't overwind the spring starter. Use 3/4 turn. Dont turn more as the spring will bend and wedge between engine and starter cam. Use a good leather glove. The prop can easily slip out of your hand and the other side will wack your hand faster than you can get out of the way.
Posted on: 3/8/2004 3:31 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1603685
RE: Identify bad battery cell?
If one cell is bad, the others are probably not far behind. I'ld just replace the pack. If you replace one cell it will be different from the others and not charge well. I had JR radio with Sanyo batts. Had an RX cell fail. Replaced pack. 2 moths later the TX pack failed. Must have been a bad lot. Replaced both and they worked for 10 years. Still test at 100% of capacity.
Posted on: 3/7/2004 9:46 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1601180
RE: RE: What are you guys using for smoke pumps..
I use a windshield washer pump and a SP speed control tied to a channel that has trottle mix with a switch. The pump looks identical to the Slimline pump. But mine cost $9 at WalMart.
Posted on: 3/7/2004 9:40 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1601155
RE: G-62 Tune-up
Geistware is right ;) Ralph will have it running better than new. He has reworked mine a couple of times. After a bent shaft, it came back and vibrated less than it was new. You probably could send it to Zenoah (Horizon.) But expect to pay a fortune. They wanted $79 for the pickup coil (part only.) Ralph will get you parts cheaper and give you one from his "parts bin" for almost nothing. Sounds like you need new carb gaskets/diaphram. No big deal, he' can redo carbs in hs sleep. If Ralph can't fix it, it can't be fixed.
Posted on: 3/7/2004 9:33 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1601119
RE: GP Patty Wagstaff Extra Tight Wings
I had to sand my paper tubes just to get them to fit (was a problem with the kit at the time.) I used a brake cylinder hone with sandpaper wrapped around the stones. Made quick work as it needed a lot of sanding. Flew all summer with no problem They actually were a little loose near the end of the summer. Went out a few weeks ago and could not get the tubes to slide in. Ended up sanding them at the field (broom handle/sandpaper.) Took a lot of sanding.
Posted on: 2/17/2004 10:34 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1538807
RE: jb weld coil to case??
This is old 18cc I was playing with. I used Alumiweld to weld plate to the fins. Then drillled an tapped for some standoffs. Worked fine, but this engine is too small to do anyting interesting with. So it sat out im my garage and is now all corroded.
Posted on: 2/17/2004 9:37 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1538602
RE: Home made Lithium Ion battery charger
[quote]ORIGINAL: SeenMCrash Hello all, I have a question. Could this charger be modified to charge NiMH and NiCD? Could I just adjust the potentiometer to the proper voltage? If so, what would the proper voltages be for 6, 7, 8, cell NiCD and NiMH? Thanks, Andrew [/quote]No, NiMH and NiCad require a different charge method.
Posted on: 2/9/2004 12:42 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1510300
RE: Homelite 45cc Problems
How does it run with idle at 1 1/4 out and high at 1 1/3 out (these are the normal settings.) 2.5 turns on the high is way to much. If it still lods up, the carb has problems. <Scott>
Posted on: 1/28/2004 10:26 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1474956
RE: OK! Twin trainer it is!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Yakirg How about building a new wing with 2 engine pods for a my old superstar trainer? It's a high wing trainer, so the engines will be suspended below the wing ... Will I need to change the tail configuration? What wingspan do I need? (The original wing is 60") Symmetrical/semi symmetrical? Washout? Man I have a lot of questions this morning! Will a Saito 40 be enough for the P38 (about 64"wingspan)? [/quote] I did exactly that. Original had a OS .61FSR (way more power than it needed.) I use two 15-year old OS 40 FP's. I built a symmetrical wing. I adjusted it to match the incedence of the tail. It flew ok, but had relatively high wing loading. If I did it again, I'ld use a semi-symmetrircal wing. The new wing had a shorter chord than the original (length was same as fuse opening, I forgot old wing had ailerons that extened past opening.) On second flight, the mixer I had for the engines failed and I was stuck at full throttle. It flew fine. One engine quit about 3 minutes before the other. It still flew great on one engine. I was still able to do loops rolls etc. Landed fine. Any trainer bashed into a twin will work well. Alas, mine suffered from a radio problem and did a full throttle roll on landing. Hope to get back on my P-38 this year. There are pictures of my Superstar twin on my planes page.
Posted on: 1/27/2004 10:05 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1473942
RE: Giant Stinger Two-Piece Wing
for a 2-piece wing, you would have to fill in the wing area of the fuse with ply. Then cut a hole for the wing tube. Add dowels front and rear to keep the wing from rotating. Then bolts from inside of fuse or through wing tube to keep the wings from sliding out. The problem with cutting out the center and gluing it into the fuse is that the radio/servos are under the wing. You could have the center section bolt in like a regular wing and use a wing tube.
Posted on: 1/24/2004 10:39 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1463787
RE: Two New Giant Foamie Ryobi Designs
Herb, send me a copy in dxf. I want to add my retracts (Eurokit ). Should be interesting.....;)
Posted on: 1/24/2004 10:08 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1463663
RE: GP <span class=
[quote]ORIGINAL: funfly-RCU I just got one of the Great planes CEII and would like to know if the ZDZ40 that I have would work in this plane. [/quote]Yes, it will will be perfect for this plane. My Poulan 50 pulls it with almost unlimited vertical. The ZDZ-40 matches the same RPM/prop speed as my Poulan (I have a ZDZ-40 pn my PW 300.) The ZDZ will be a bit lighter and will be even better.
Posted on: 1/24/2004 1:18 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1461133
RE: Zenoah G-62 engine mount.
Mine balanced perfectly with a G-62 and cup mount from B&B. I also have the starter that adds about 8oz to the engine. I have 2 Hitec 605 elevator servos and one 1/4 scale rudder servo on the bottom (the big ones) in the tail. 4 servos will balance fine. My batt (full C size 3000mAh are in just behind the spar. CG was right on. For the carb, there are 3 different spacers. The old stock one is very long. I bought a short one from B&B. The new style rotates the carb so the throttle moves front-to-back (instead of up and down on old style.) It is a bit shorter. Mine has a narrow cowl (same size as fuse.) SO carb sticks out almost completely (needles are even with the cowl.) With the stock wide cowl, I think the front of the carb is about even with the cowl IIRC. My G. Stinger was my first gas and Giant Scale. Great plane. G-62 is about 5.5 lbs until you add the starter and a pitts muffler. Then it is more like 6.25. Once you get that G-62 fully broken in (takes like 5 gallons), it will pull like crazy. Takeoffs on mine: roll 20' then straight up.
Posted on: 1/21/2004 9:16 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1454180
RE: Mixture rule of thumb???
Most here use 1/8 turn rich.
Posted on: 1/21/2004 9:03 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1454141
RE: Two New Giant Foamie Ryobi Designs
Cool ;) I have two Ryobi's waiting for a home. Someday I'll get to that P-38........ For now, this sounds like a great way to break them in. The hard part will be getting the foam. Here in the south they dont stock foam thicker than 3/4" in the home stores. There is a fome supplier that willcut what you need, I'll have to go find them. Send me the plans for the delta. WIth that big rudder it aught to do some wild stuff. What about landing gear for this thing? Hmmm I have a pair of retracts lying around....... Herb, guess I'm as crazy as you. Scott.
Posted on: 1/21/2004 8:54 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1454119
RE: R138DP vs R148DP vs R149DP receivers..
They are also different sizes. The 138 is the same size as most FM receivers. The 148 is about 1" square and about 2" long. I prefer the 138 as it is simpler and cheaper than the 148. Inside the 148 is several boards. I'ld worry about all those interconnections but I have had no problems with mine.
Posted on: 1/21/2004 6:59 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1453755
RE: Wildest, Brightest, Visible Colors?
My Giant Sportster is medium blue and bright Yellow. It really stands out in the air. Yellow seems brightest, maybe because it reflects the sun's color. My brothers sportster is Red and Yellow, real easy to see. My first trainer was white and light blue.......bad choice ;) Looked nice on the ground.
Posted on: 1/21/2004 6:49 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1453726
RE: Giant Stinger Two-Piece Wing
It is a one piece wing. Mine is bashed to look like a Super Sporter. Pictures (including building) are on the link in my sig.
Posted on: 1/21/2004 6:45 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1453710
RE: Zenoah G-62 engine mount.
I used 1/4 scale servos for the rudder and the ailerons. These are Futaba (tower) with lots of torque and metal gear. The elevator servos are Hitec 605BB's. They work well, but if I did it again, I'ld us a 625 or 645. The single rudder servo does well. This is a fun plane to fly. Have mine for 3 years and it still is my 'ol reliable.
Posted on: 1/20/2004 12:34 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1448806
RE: How many people build giant models from scratch?
I always loved the Super Sportsters :) So, bashed a Giant Stinger to be a Sportster (basically used parts in the box as a source fo my Kit.) Later built a Giant Super Sportster Bipe, 66" wing, Q-42 then Poulan 50 for power. Real blast to fly (veru similar to christten Egale/Pitts.) See the planes page in my sig for info on these.
Posted on: 1/20/2004 1:44 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1447702
RE: Engine recommendations for stinger 1.20
I have seen them with: US41/Q-42 G-38 Quadra 400 Poulan 46 All above fly great. The last 2 give about 1:1 power/weright. Look at the ZDZ40B (Sportsman) comes with everything you need.
Posted on: 1/20/2004 1:39 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1447684
RE: Zenoah G-62 engine mount.
Get a Bennett cup mount: http://www.bennettbuilt.com/page4.htm I used their vibration isolators also.
Posted on: 1/19/2004 4:26 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1445802
RE: Giant Fun-Fly Prop Selection
In my experience the Pro's are much better and quieter. Currently my favorate prop to use $$$/performace wize.
Posted on: 1/19/2004 11:09 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1444768
RE: Mechanical advance ignition
[quote]ORIGINAL: ronk1 RGIGN1, Please don't take this the wrong but wouldn't a "more modern" engine work better for racing? Less weight, more power etc. It seems like they are preferred for acrobatics. Just curious [/quote]I seemed to remember there are some classes of racing that REQUIRED all planes to have a G-62. I thing they were all AT-6's IIRC. A more modern engine would be lighter, but a scale plane would need the weight anyway (and often more.)
Posted on: 1/19/2004 11:01 AM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1444738
RE: Li-Po charge retention
LiPos have a very slow self discharge, on the order of a few %/month. Li-Ion/Poly do not peak charge. They use a CV current limit charger. Basically if the batt is charged, it does not draw any more current from the charger. ANy decent LiPoly charger will not overcharge them. The charger does not really "sense" a peak. That batts stop drawing current exponentially towards 0 when they get close to full charge. If you disconnect a batt from the charger and later charge again, the batt will not charge any more. I have left Lipos on my charger for months, with no problems. The Kokam charger should do the same, only charge as needed.
Posted on: 1/18/2004 9:34 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1443264
RE: GP Extra 300S .40 kit engine dilemma
Yes it is overkill. A hot 46 flies this plane very well. My earlier post assumed use of a .61FX. Lighter the better on these planes. The .50 might be better as far as weight. Should be more than enough power. The .61 will use more fuel and need alarger tank.
Posted on: 1/18/2004 7:23 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1442829
RE: GP Extra 300S .40 kit engine dilemma
[quote]ORIGINAL: gp300 PS. So can you get the slimline pitts muffler for the .61? Too lazy to look, need expert advice. [:D] Shane [/quote] Get the one for the .91FX (same size.) The .61 slimline is way to small and restrictive. Make sure the Slimiline is the "Large chamber" version. Make a big difference. I had the .61 with the regular Slimline on my EX300 60 size. Underpowered. Changed to .91FX and not much difference (at the time, the same muffler was suggested.) Then put the large chamber one on and WOW, roll 15' then straight up.......
Posted on: 1/18/2004 6:08 PM by Author "shenion"
in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1442603
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