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RE: Official Rustler Thread
Not as big of difference as between Nimh and Lipo.. To quote Warhead... "... I went Li-Po, and am amazed." ... also, yes, venom batteries are crap...
Posted on: 11/15/2009 11:39 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256750
RE: Official Rustler Thread
HEY!!! Haven't posted here for a while. I got a fulltime job running a couple waterjets at a local aerospace manufacturer. I have access to LOTS of aerospace grade titanium sheet metal and am going to make a dozen or so wheelie bars out of scrap titanium. I'm even having them hot formed by another guy so that the bent tail is strong as possible. Won't heat treat them cause we want flex in them... I'll list them on eBay when I'm done. PM me if you're interested...
Posted on: 11/14/2009 7:25 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9253911
RE: I can spot weld A123 cells!!!
Basic components... * Benchtop power supply @15-16v (amps depend on cap charging rates... mine used about 5A max using a foglight for the charging control resistance) * SCR (Thyristor) 220v/220a Single or Dual channels. You only need one unless you want to add a second set of capacitors and a reed switch for dual-pulse welding, but that's much more expensive I got a used dual channel one from an ebay surplus store for about $40, would have cost hundreds to buy one new * Charge controlling resistance - not sure how to calculate for different cap set-ups, but mine ran as stated above using an automotive foglight @ about 5A max for ~40 second charges * Foot peddle ON/off to activate SCR switch and weld (I used the same 15v power source for the switch, which is fine with such a heavy duty SCR.) * Heavy 2gage braided copper car audio wiring between main cap lead, SCR and contact points * Thick solid copper grounding wire, clamped to braided wires and filed to a point at the ends (you can fix these however you want, just make sure your hand isn't going to be in danger of becoming part of the circuit! * ~21+ Farads total capacity - I used: one 10F, two 5F, and one 1F car audio capacitors all wired in parallel with 6g wire. You can find these cheap on ebay. How you wire it up is up to you, this is just a rough list of what I used. Keep in mind there are many factors that will effect the quality of your weld. * Clean all welding surfaces with a non-residue cleaner like high % alcohol. You want to optimize the metal to metal contact, so it must be free of oils and debri * Keep the welding tips clean by regularly filing them to a rounded point. The size of this point will effect your weld, too large of a point won't weld fully, too small and it will likely blow the tip off before it welds the material. * Play with voltage and capacity, using my values as a baseline. I had a feeling that if I went to a bit higher voltage I might have gotten better welds, but the circuitry of the audio capacitors limits it to about 16v and sets off the alarm (my PSU maxed at 15.5v anyways). The caps are rated to 24v, so if you could bypass the control circuit you could easily try out the 16-18v range if your PSU can do it. * Make sure you apply adequate pressure to both contact points and that you are only welding within the center button area. A strike to the outer edge of the positive terminal can easily rupture the cell. It's not particularly dangerous, but fluids will leak out. I managed to seal a couple that I ruptured during wiring, by accidental arc across cells, with JBweld, only apparent affect on the cell was a minor reduction in capacity. According to the California Materials spec sheet for A123 cells, they do not contain any toxic or hazardous chemicals. * Always wear eye protection, you'll be throwing sparks in your face for hours! * Ventilation is recommended [link=http://www.ledhacks.com/power/battery_tab_welder.htm]Here's the site that gave me the idea in the first place... however they hadn't been successful with A123's with their setup. Here is the basic wiring diagram: [image]http://www.ledhacks.com/power/CDweldPost/schematicCD1.gif[/image][/link] EDIT: More recently I was able to repair my RC packs using only 16F, you just have to make sure everything is flat and clean so you get good conduction. [link=http://www.ledhacks.com/power/dual_pulse!!!.htm]If you'd like to give the dual-pulse welder... here's some more info (click go there) [image]http://www.ledhacks.com/power/CDweldPost/DualPulse/circuit.gif[/image][/link]
Posted on: 9/5/2009 11:57 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9072669
RE: Official Rustler Thread
HEY!!! I finally got my A123 packs rebuilt and have been testing it out. I did a three cell 10v triangle brick that fits nicely down into the front of the battery tray. Built three packs total, even had my spotwelder handy to weld the tabbing on! I'll post pictures soon. Who was it on this thread that had the titanium wheely bars?? I want one and was thinking how cool it would be if you could make some titanium disc wheels just for demo purposes. They would be sweet showering white sparks all over the road while you drift like you're on ice!!! Awesome.... Anyway, the dude with the ti bars, please PM me!
Posted on: 7/30/2009 5:38 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8977039
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Ok, this may be a stupid question, but I haven't figured it out yet, so maybe someone can shed some light on it. What is the difference between a Rustler and a Rustler Roller??
Posted on: 5/18/2009 7:06 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8779865
RE: Official Rustler Thread
I doubt that... you can tighten into the plastic pretty hard before they strip. Either they were already stripped, they got stripped in a wreck, or you over did it... the plastic they use is actually fairly strong, you just gotta know when enough is enough.
Posted on: 4/22/2009 9:17 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8706789
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Congzilla After upgrading the pinion gear I was hoping to get enough power to finally get the front two tires off of the ground. No such luck. These are the batteries I currently have [link]http://www.racers-edge.com/product_p/rcesp4400hc.htm[/link]. [/quote] I didn't get my tires off the ground until I went to Lithium batteries. NiMh just can't push the high amperage that the motor and esc can use (~60A), Lithium can!
Posted on: 4/20/2009 11:04 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8700559
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: JJay03 What tires? [/quote] What do you mean "what tires"? Didn't the pic show up in my last post? I can see it... it's also linked to the Tower Hobbies page for those tires. Here a link to Tower Hobbies list of 1/10 scale tires: [link=http://Tower Hobbies: 1/10 scale tires]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=CJE[/link]
Posted on: 4/20/2009 12:56 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8698726
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWFV8&P=0][image]http://www2.gpmd.com/image/i/imxc7401.jpg[/image][/link] Man... I dare say these tires might be better than the mashers! Tower Hobbies has CRAPLOADS of tires and rims to choose from!
Posted on: 4/20/2009 10:54 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8698405
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Raytrace Okay I know somebody is going to say search search, but I tried that and got sick of sifting through hundreds of pages looking for an answer. Here's my problem. My Velineon ESC goes into protect mode on perfectly good and fully charged lipos. I'm talking a MaxAmps 3s 6500 mAh and after about 5 minutes of running (not hard), it goes into protect and cuts the throttle. The first few times I wasn't sure what was really going on so I topped off the battery and it only took about 2000 mA hours. It's done it with other cells too. Seems to me to be WAY too sensitive and with it crying wolf all the time, I'm not sure whether or not to trust it! [/quote] Can you change the LVC voltage setting?? You're probably hitting the limit when you accelerate. High amp pull will cause a voltage drop, you could probably turn the voltage setting down by a few tenths of a volt or up to a whole volt to avoid early triggering.
Posted on: 4/20/2009 10:44 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8698369
RE: Official Rustler Thread
On my mashers they are interchangeable, yes. I've actually wanted to put the talons on backwards just for the hell of it. Probably look funny and handle weird..??
Posted on: 4/19/2009 7:13 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8696613
RE: Official Rustler Thread
I bought my set lightly used on ebay for about $30, not sure what the brand is on the rims. I like them though cause they're the deep dish kind that actually widen your wheelbase. Look at the rims and see if you can tell how far into the middle of the wheel the axle nut sits. Some will have them almost flush with the outside of the tire for a narrower wheelbase and some are more in the middle or towards the inside edge for a wider wheelbase. My Talon set actually came on rims that where specifically for the front and rear, with the front tires mounted closer in (which makes them grab my body in tight turns[8|]).
Posted on: 4/19/2009 7:07 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8696599
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: JJay03 I do a lot of street driving also and with the bigger diameter they should be faster then the dirthawgs also. The truck seemed slower with the dirthawgs. [/quote] Bigger tires do the same thing as adding a few teeth to your pinion. It changes your effective gear ratio, so if you want the same gearing as with the smaller stock sized tires then you need to gear down a few teeth. I like the mashers cause they're on the smaller rims and give the truck alot more padding to absorb hard impacts, not to mention excellent traction on or off road. Only real problem on pavement is that they'll get worn down quicker and loose their gripping edge of the tread. Oh ya, they also grip so well on pavement that it's easier to flip over when you turn or accelerate, plus you have a higher center of gravity which adds to it. But they're GREAT off-road! EDIT: I'm beginning to feel like a Masher salesman, LOL...[:D] they are definately my kind of tire, but then again, I enjoy off-roading alot more than on road. Pavement just gets boring. [:)]
Posted on: 4/19/2009 6:58 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8696572
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: JJay03 I didnt like the proline dirt hawgs so ordered some talons. The dirt hawgs wouldnt do crap in the grass even freshly cut just too low of profile. The stock tires did much better in the grass then they did. [/quote] Talons aren't much better, they're more of a street tire. Mashers do great in grass, sand or dirt. I have both...
Posted on: 4/19/2009 6:51 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8696469
RE: Official Rustler Thread
On the ground... your tires will change their angle from unsprung to neutrally sprung to fully loaded. You want to set your tires in the middle, where the weight of the car is just slightly compressing the springs... there's a name for that position but I can't remember it right now.
Posted on: 4/19/2009 12:03 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8695578
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Joe K [quote]ORIGINAL: Congzilla The pinion gear directions were great. Only problem is that the little tiny screw that is holding on the original is just about welded in there. So far it has stripped both ends of the small hex wrench that came with it. Frustration is building, any suggestions to get that little bastard out of there? [/quote] Been there done that and it SUCKS:[:@] I have used a Dremel with a thin cutting blade and cut a slot in grub screw then used a small flat screwdriver. Sometimes you need to cut into surrounding area a little. Anyone have a better method please chime in. [/quote] I also had this problem, and my dremel was also my answer. I put a small rounded metal grinding tip on it and just ground right down on top of the set screw till it was gone. Pain in the butt, but it worked!
Posted on: 4/18/2009 11:54 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8692810
RE: Official Rustler Thread
If you're stripping gears, you probably don't have your mesh set right or maybe your main bearing to the spur is worn out. If the gears are properly meshed, you'd be more likely to snap an axle yoke then to strip the spur. Maybe your motor isn't tightend down enough?? I've never stripped a single spur... in fact, I've never stripped any gear!
Posted on: 4/15/2009 11:48 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8685836
RE: Official Rustler Thread
@Joe The black chassis tells me that your rustler is old. They haven't made the black chassis for a few years I believe. That doesn't mean it's bad as long as it's been taken care of. Of course it also looks like its still all plastic parts and not brushless.. so you're still not much more ahead than you were before. I agree that the radio might be a decent deal... with the charger and battery too.... you could always watch for another upgraded [b]brushless[/b] rustler, then you could mix and match parts or just have yourself a brushed/brushless pair like I do. It's alot cheaper to keep spare parts on hand when they will fit either truck... or if you don't have spares you can always cannibalize the lesser of the two.
Posted on: 4/13/2009 12:08 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8676822
RE: Official Rustler Thread
That's why I want all my electronics to be 100% waterproof. Washing the truck would be so much easier! Well... I guess my brushed rustler with the new blue electronics is waterproof, but the receiver is not... I had bought a Slash receiver box and it was too big to fit on the rustler. [:o]
Posted on: 4/10/2009 12:00 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8667725
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Look for a used VXL. You'll probably want to upgrade to brushless after a short time. If you find one used either here or on eBay, you'll save a lot of time and money from upgrades. Trust me... I've already got over $1000 into my Rustler and I'd be lucky to sell it for $300... not to mention all the time spend ordering parts and doing the actual repairs. If I had it to do over again, I'd start with something used and already upgraded with some aluminum and such...
Posted on: 4/10/2009 1:30 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8666746
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: MTboy Where can I find the red steering links? [/quote] Tower Hobbies, ebay or any other hobby supply place. You can get them in silver, red or blue. I got the blue integy one's and returned them cause the ball joints were too tight.
Posted on: 4/9/2009 9:18 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8666005
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Hell ya! Nice stonecolded! I love the mashers too, they look so good on it. Too bad they're not 4wd, huh? I blew one of my A123 cells in my 10v pack, so I tore it down and I'm going to make two smaller packs of 3s1p 10v in a triangle-brick one cell long. Should make it lighter and I think I can get the batteries to mount in the truck better (they're bigger than normal cells). Plus I can give the truck a break in the middle of my old run times, so it will probably be better for the electronics too. Now I need to find some cheap balance leads... hmmm. I'll post pics when I get them done, but with graduation around the corner I don't know how soon that's going to be. [:)]
Posted on: 4/9/2009 6:57 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8665602
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Nice warhead, I like the blue and black carbon... looks sick! You could of used thumbnails though... especially for pics that big.
Posted on: 4/9/2009 10:10 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8664300
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: rustytraxx I have done about all i can to to my rustler [/quote] Two questions... Where did you get that roll cage and how much to you have into that thing total? $1500??
Posted on: 4/9/2009 9:41 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8664243
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: khumbmela does RPM make wide arms for rustler? i am having a second thoughts about using my extended arms from FLM. [/quote] I wish... So far the only alternative I've found is the extended hubs, but that puts alot more stress on your steering and carrier blocks. Much more likely to snap a shaft or other part from the increased leverage. RPM NEEDS to make plastic extended arms, I'd buy two sets as soon as they hit the shelves.
Posted on: 4/8/2009 1:53 AM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8660198
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Upgraded parts are numbered differently than the stock parts. I think in the parts list, they usually list the stock number followed by the upgrade part numbers, but that's only for official traxxas parts, other companies may or may not list the same numbers.
Posted on: 4/7/2009 5:51 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8658761
RE: Official Rustler Thread
I don't know about the differential gear, both my trucks still have the original nylon one, even after tonz of bashing. Only time I've had to open the tranny was after breaking the rear arm mount on the plastic tranny and upgraded to aluminum (one of the first and best upgrades since the arm mounts is actually separate from the tranny box). I thought you were talking about the tranny bearings. I would assume the differential gear should come pre assembled, but I could be wrong. (I didn't link the parts, someone else did)
Posted on: 4/7/2009 4:31 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8658537
RE: Official Rustler Thread
IMO, arms are better left plastic. They are cheaper and easier to replace than many other parts. If you make them stronger, you'll only transfer the loads to other parts that will then break. If you still have a plastic tranny box, that will probably be the first to go. MTboy: yes you can just push the bearings out, but the tranny bearings are usually good for a long time, why do you say they need replaced? ALSO, make sure you grease the gears with the white lithium grease before closing the tranny.
Posted on: 4/7/2009 12:52 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8657919
RE: Official Rustler Thread
[link=http://www.traxxas.com/products/accessories/trx_accessories_xl5_wp.htm]Blue XL-5 Specs[/link] Confirmed, the XL-5 has no LVC. I also noticed that they state max volts at 9.4v, and motor size is limited to 12-15 turn motors... meaning a 17T motor is not recommended!
Posted on: 4/6/2009 5:30 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8655261
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Voltage cutoff is for low voltage on lipos so you don't over-discharge them and cause damage, I can't remember if the XL-5 has that function or not, the VXL an Castle ESCs do. [link=http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=NOVP5470&P=FR]Novak 2cell Lipo LVC (low voltage cuttoff)[/link] - NOTE: This is only compatible with the older yellow XL-5 ESC and not the newer Blue ones. (why... i don't know) All i was saying is that for your XL-5, a 7.4v lipo will kick some major butt. You're not going to get much better than that unless you dump a load into a brushless system. I think you can just buy a VXL for about $300 if you're going to go that route...
Posted on: 4/6/2009 5:27 PM by Author "simplecj"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8655256
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